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But how do you pick one that’s the right size? Well, we’ve got a simple formula below that you can use to find the right size generator for any setup! If you’ve ever needed to know how to pick a generator, this is the article for you!
First, a quick refresher on the relationship between amps, watts, and volts. Having a basic understanding of these makes this process much less daunting. To put it simply, amps measure the volume or “how much” electricity, and volts measure the speed or “how fast” the electricity is delivered. If you multiply the amps by the volts, you get watts, which is the measure of “real power” or total electric output. To put this into an analogy, imagine your cord is a highway: the amps are the number of lanes across, the volts are the speed limit, and the watts are the total cars coming through a point.
So now we have an idea of how they relate. Let’s now put it to use. Say you have a portable, the manufacturer states cord one is 18 amps and cord two is 12 amps. That gives us a total of 30 amps. Depending on your country you may have either 115V or 230V circuits (In the U.S. it’s 115V). So now let’s take 115 volts and multiply by 30 amps, which gives us 3,450 Watts! Great!
Now should you go get a 3,450W generator? Well, not exactly. Generators have several wattage ratings, one that’s the “peak” or starting watts and one that’s the “running watts”, which is the max amount it can sustain over a period of time. So what should you be looking for? Well in this instance the running watts is the important number, and you want to be able to run your equipment with about 80% or less of the generator’s running watts. Running your generator below its maximum load has many benefits, including a longer life for your generator, better efficiency, and reduced noise.
So, to find the right size, divide the total watts needed by .
8, and that will give you the correct running watts! Using our example we need a generator rated for at least 4,315 running watts (3,450 ÷ .8). Voila, that’s all there is to it! Simply add up the total amps needed, multiply by the voltage to get the total watts, then divide by .8 to get the running wattage a generator will need to run your setup properly! Below are some more examples based on popular Mytee setups.
8070 Cord 1: 19 amps
19a x 115V = 2,185W ÷ .8 = 2,731 suggested running watts
1005LX Cord 1: 20 amps
1005LX Cord 2: 15 amps
Mytee Hot Cord 1: 20 amps (at max)
55 amps total
55a x 115V = 6,325W ÷ .8 = 7,906 suggested running watts
Air Hog Cord 1: 15 amps
Air Hog Cord 2: 15 amps
Water Hog Cord 1: 14 amps
44 amps total
44a x 115V = 5,060W ÷ .
8 = 6,325 suggested running watts
Escape Cord 1: 19 amps
Escape Cord 2: 18 amps
T-Rex Cord 1: 8 amps
45 amps total
45a x 115V = 5,175 ÷ .8 = 6,470 suggested running watts
P.S. While we all want to avoid overspending on an overkill generator, keep future growth in mind when purchasing one! Giving yourself room to get larger/more equipment is a good way to future-proof your purchase and may save you money in the long run!
ATVs and quads usually require 12v batteries that are often suitable for use in motorcycles as well. A power sports battery needs to provide the high output needed to start your four-wheeler. What differentiates these batteries is cold cranking amp, or CCA, output.
Can I use an ATV battery with a winch? Do I Need a Special Battery for My ATV with a Winch? The short answer is that ATV batteries and Powersports batteries are just not designed to handle the amp draw of a winch.
They are not made for deep cycling, only for starting. That being said, in the real world we have winches.
What are the types of ATV batteries? Types of ATV Batteries. As discussed above, the two main types of ATV batteries out there are conventional and AGM. Conventional ATV batteries are usually lead-acid. They are both popular and affordable. Also, they need distilled water to maintain them properly. AGM batteries tend to be more heavy-duty and come in at a higher price point.
What is an ATV battery tender? Del Tran makes a Battery Tender Junior that works great for ATV batteries. Because of its smaller size, it can easily fit into the more confined space of an ATV frame. A battery tender can add years of life to your battery. There are so-called maintenance-free batteries and batteries that require maintenance.
What type of battery do I need for my motorcycle? ATVs usually require 12v batteries that are often suitable for use in motorcycles as well. A power sports battery needs to provide the high output needed to start your four-wheeler.
What differentiates these batteries is cold cranking amp, or CCA, output.
Table of Contents
The majority of ATVs operate on a 12-volt battery architecture system (at rest). Conventional, or flooded, ATV batteries use a voltage range of 12.6 to 12.8 volts on a fully charged battery that’s at rest. An AGM battery, may have a voltage range that starts at 12.8 volts but can reach as high as 13.1 volts.
In answer to your question, the six amp charger will charge your battery three times faster than the two amp charger. Six amps is stil a relatively slow charge and should be fine to use for a deep cycle battery. If your charger is telling you the battery is full, place a load on the battery before charging it.23 Sept 2011
A: If you leave the charger connected continuously, even at a mere 2 amps, the battery eventually will die.
Overcharging a battery causes excessive gassing — the electrolyte gets hot and both hydrogen and oxygen gas are generated.
They have larger Ah capacities – When fully charged, 6V batteries have bigger capacities compared to 12V batteries. They have a bigger discharge and recharge capacity – This means that you can discharge and recharge the batteries more often than 12V batteries. These batteries are also less prone to charge memory.
Re: 2 12 volt versus 2 6 volt deep cycle batteries number of charge discharge cycles. If you’re comparing a dual 6-volt arrangement vs a dual 12-volt arrangement with deep cycle in both cases and approximately the same capacity and same quality on both sets, then the answer is no.
A 12v battery is a 12 volt battery, you can’t use it at 6v. It doesn’t work that way. Each of the 3 cells in a 6v battery produces a bit over 2 volts, just like each of the 6 cells in a 12v battery produces a bit over 2 volts.
2 amp
1-2 days
24 hours
about 8 hours
24 hours
ATV’s are NOT designed to charge car batteries, as far as I know they don’t even have alternators and use the magneto to create charging power and thats based on rpm’s, so you would have to be running at max rpms to create max. charging power to the batt. Don’t run a car battery.
In the case of a battery in good condition, the rate of charge may be around 3 to 6 amps with a normal home charger.
Each cell in a deep-cycle battery can produce about 2 volts. A 6V battery has 3 cells, making a total of 6 volts, and a 12V battery has 6 cells, making a total of 12 volts!
It is best to slow charge the battery.
Slow charging rates vary depending on the battery’s type and capacity. However, when charging an automotive battery, 10 amps or less is considered a slow charge, while 20 amps or above is generally considered a fast charge.
2 amp
12v cars use 12-volt motor and battery, 6-volt cars use 6-volt motor and battery. As a result, 12-volt ride on cars have more power, more speed and need more charging time than 6-volt cars. 12-volt vehicles are suitable for 3 to 6 years old kid whereas 6-volt cars are generally for 1 to 3 years old.
A basic charger usually charges at around 2 amps – and so needs 24 hours to deliver the 48 amps needed to fully charge a flat, 48 amp hour battery. But there is a wide range of chargers with different charge rates on the market – from 2 to 10 amps. The higher the charge output, the faster a flat battery is recharged.
As a widely known type of lantern battery, 6-volt cells are used to supply electricity to torch lights, flashlights or any other illumination that needs higher energy capacity. Since these are rechargeable batteries that are comprised of multiple arrays of cells inside, they have a large capacity for energy storage.
A: If you leave the charger connected continuously, even at a mere 2 amps, the battery eventually will die. Overcharging a battery causes excessive gassing — the electrolyte gets hot and both hydrogen and oxygen gas are generated.
Xiaomi Mi TV Stick is an entry-level Android TV box for HD and Full HD TVs. It is able to breathe a second life into an outdated TV that does not have smart TV functions or significantly expand them, if we talk about TVs on operating systems Tizen (Samsung), WebOS (LG), VIDA (Hisence) and the like.
Android TV 9 open operating system installed on Xiaomi Mi TV Stick, thanks to which thousands of free applications are available that can be installed both from the Play Market and from third-party resources (by downloading and installing the apk file). In the review, I will talk in detail about all the capabilities of the set-top box and show how to properly configure it in order to squeeze the absolute maximum out of it without resorting to complex actions.
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video review version
Now for some technical data:
Video, Youtube, Twitch, etc. Separately, we see a note about the supported resolution of Full HD 1920x1080. For 4K TVs, it is better to pay attention to older models, such as Mi Box S 4K.
On the reverse side, information about the capabilities of the AndroidTV operating system and a note that Chromecast is built into the set-top box. And this is cool, considering that the latest original Google Chromecast 3 in local stores costs even more.
At the end you can find information about the manufacturer and licenses. Among others, the set-top box has Dolby Audio and DTS licenses. The packaging itself is not very dense, so on the way it was a little wrinkled and lost its presentation, the contents were not damaged.
Inside, everything is laid out in the places provided and fixed.
Included with the stick are: remote control, micro USB cable, power supply, HDMI extension cable and various documentation.
A 5V/1A power supply is required if your TV does not have USB power or the output current from USB is lower than 1A.
For example, I have 2 televisions. Full HD 40 inch Samsung, which has a USB port with 1A (marked as HDD 5V/1A).
Here I just connect the stick to HDMI and power it from USB. Everything is hidden behind the TV, controlled by one remote control and does not require an additional outlet.
I also have a small LG HD TV in the kitchen and it only outputs 0.5A USB (there is a mark on the case), so if I used the stick with it, I would need to connect the supplied power supply.
Another useful piece of kit is an HDMI extension cable. Sometimes the HDMI connectors on the TV are a little recessed and the stick may not fit due to the wider body than a simple cable.
Simply plug the stick into the adapter and plug it into your TV.
The remote is cool here. Minimum buttons, compact size, bluetooth signal transmission and voice input support (built-in microphone).
The buttons are large, tactilely distinguishable and are pressed with a distinct click. Navigation and system buttons are in the center, power and voice search are on top, volume is on the bottom.
There are also quick launch buttons for Netflix and Prime Video.
The remote control fits perfectly in the hand. In a couple of days you will use it without looking at the buttons, because the controls are intuitive and you will quickly remember the location of all the main elements. Since the signal is transmitted via the bluetooth protocol, the direct visibility of the stick is not required. The main condition is at a distance of no more than 10 meters, and so - at least from under the covers, control, the prefix will respond to every button press instantly.
On the back there is information that the remote control model is called XMRM-006 and it can be purchased separately on aliexpress.
It looks very similar to my favorite mecool remote control that I have been using for several years. The differences, though minimal, are there. Firstly, my remote does not have additional Netflix and Prime Video buttons, and secondly, the power button and voice search are placed horizontally, not vertically.
Well, the shape is slightly different. mecool has a more rounded back while xiaomi has a flat one.
Externally, the set-top box has the shape of a stick, often called a "whistle" by the people, but to me it looks more like a flash drive on steroids. The design of the case combines glossy and matte plastic, on the front side there is a large MI logo.
HDMI connector is covered with a protective cap.
Zen pattern at the end. In principle, all this does not matter much, because the device will be hidden behind the TV, but the device looks nice.
On the reverse side - technical information and model name MDZ-24-AA
On one of the faces - micro USB for power supply and that's basically it. No more connectors. Internet connection is carried out exclusively through WiFi, and installation of applications is possible only from the Internet. Considering that there is a truncated Android TV market, this can confuse the average user.
How to put your favorite HD Videobox if it is not in the market, but you can’t connect a flash drive or memory card? It's very simple and I'll show you how later.
I also want to focus your attention on the stick size. To say he's tiny is an understatement.
Physically, it is barely larger than an ordinary lighter.
And now let's see how the box works inside. The case is held simply by snaps, so it is very easy to disassemble it. By the way, if you prefer to watch movies not from online cinemas, but directly from torrents, then you can leave it like that, this will reduce the temperature of the processor. The thing is that when playing video from torrents, there is a very large load on the processor, as a result of which it heats up more.
But disassembly did not help us in identifying the components. Everything is covered with metal screens: processor, memory, WiFi module. Only a tiny radiator protrudes proudly from the metal armour.
The same on the reverse side.
It is not entirely clear why this was done, because, logically, this only worsens heat transfer. How much? It is not known, because Xiaomi simply decided not to install a temperature sensor. The less you know the better you sleep. In defense, I’ll say that there were no overheatings, reboots or freezes during the month of use, after all, the Amlogic Y series of processors was developed specifically for such sticks and the heat dissipation there is insignificant.
We have a classic Android TV 9 system without any modifications or changes. On the main screen, the top row is occupied by application shortcuts that you choose and customize their sequence.
Below are app feeds with suggested content that can be launched directly from the home screen. Everything is simple and as convenient as possible for use on the TV.
There is also a screen with all installed applications. The applications themselves can be installed through the Google Play Store, but not all of them are there.
Therefore, many people have difficulties here: a memory card or a flash drive with apk files cannot be connected to the set-top box, and the built-in store does not even have a normal browser that can be used to download applications directly to the set-top box.
It's not really difficult. You just need to download the X-plore file manager from the official store.
It has the ability to work with cloud storage, such as Google Drive. Just download the necessary applications on your computer or even smartphone and drop them into the Google drive folder. And from the console, go to your own Google drive and install them calmly. This is how I installed HD Videobox, Wink, TorrServe and other necessary applications.
Another feature related to the use of Android TV: application shortcuts that are not adapted to the system will not be displayed in the "menu" section and can only be found through the settings and the "all applications" item. This, of course, is not convenient, so you can simply additionally install the HAL Launcher from the market, which will display all installed applications.
Moreover, the launcher opens only by pressing the shortcut and does not interfere with the operation of the main system.
As you can see, you can install absolutely any application and fully use the set-top box. Now let's look at the system settings. By the way, the system supports OTA updates and periodically receives them, where the manufacturer finalizes the firmware. Even during the initial setup, I received a notification on the main screen about a newer firmware version, after which I immediately updated it.
Let's look at the settings section, everything is quite simple and uncomplicated here. There is a section where you can set up a WiFi connection and I will immediately note that the 5 GHz band is supported, which provides higher data transfer rates compared to 2.4 GHz. There is also Bluetooth, which, in addition to connecting the remote control, can be used to transmit sound to wireless headphones or acoustics.
In the information about the device, we see that the device works on Android 9 and includes security updates for July 2020.
The Netflix electronic serial number is also indicated, let me remind you that we have it here licensed and officially supported.
Another big plus is the built-in Chromecast technology. With it, you can view photos or videos from your smartphone on your TV screen, listen to music, and broadcast supported applications such as YouTube or Google Photos. Even in screensavers that turn on after a period of inactivity, you can use Chromecast and, for example, broadcast a family photo album. There are also Chromecast-enabled games.
If you look at the technical specifications, the question arises: how does this set-top box even work? Only 1GB of RAM and 8GB of storage, of which only 5 GB is available to the user. Let's go in order: the Android TV operating system is much lighter on hardware than a full-fledged Android. Everything that is not needed for the set-top box is cut out here, and therefore less memory is needed for its operation. Benchmarks show that the system itself uses only 400 - 500 MB of memory, and the rest is given to applications. Well, since we don’t use multitasking on the stick and we don’t need to open several applications at once, this volume is quite enough.
With internal storage, everything is also simple: no one will install games here, download movies too, and this is enough to install all applications. Having installed all my usual list of applications for testing the set-top box and viewing various content, I did not use even half of the free space.
For the sake of justice, I note that the set-top box is slower than its older and more powerful counterparts and this is felt in almost everything: loading, launching applications, drawing interface elements and animation. If you have previously used powerful consoles, then this will be very noticeable. In video playback, there is absolutely no difference, because decoding takes place at the hardware level and the set-top box can play video encoded in modern HEVC, h364 and VP9 codecs. Including HDR.
There is no point in running some benchmarks like Antutu, because in fact it is in front of a media player. But the speed of the Internet via WiFi is very important here, especially since a wired connection is simply not possible.
The good news is support for two bands: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz, and in the second case there is support for the ac standard. Under ideal conditions, where the router is in a TV room, a few meters away, and the speed is not limited by the operator, I got a data transfer rate of 135 Mbps in the 5 GHz band and 48 Mbps in the 2.4 GHz band. In my actual conditions, the router is in the corridor, through 2 walls from the TV, which is located in the back room and is connected at a frequency of 5 GHz. The speed drops to 68 Mbps for download and 95 Mbps for upload. This is more than enough to watch any Full HD content online, so the set-top box has no problems with the Internet. According to publicly available information, even a stable speed of 10-12 Mbps is enough to view content in Full HD quality.
Perhaps the most popular application for watching movies online. A huge database of films that is collected from all over the Internet.
Most movies are available in normal 1080p or 720p quality.
You also need to install a video player to watch movies. Now the best video player is VIMU Player. It is fast, convenient and supports autoframe.
Select a movie, run it and enjoy smooth video without Judder effect.
I also recommend the WINK app, which offers not only movies in the best quality, but also the best TV channels, including HD.
You can also watch movies in an alternative way, just through torrents (without downloading them). For these purposes, there are many applications, such as NUM, Kinotrend, or the same HD Videobox, if you activate the Plus version in it (it costs a couple of bucks).
To watch movies from torrents, you need to install the TorrServe application, and install the latest version of the server in it (in the settings). But that is not all. Torrents load hardware very heavily and with default settings, the set-top box just freezes. In order for torrents to play normally, you need to set the cache size to 100 megabytes in the settings, and the size of the preload buffer to 20 megabytes.
In addition, you must have a stable and fast Internet, at least 20 - 25 Mbps.
If you are a supporter of legal content, then please: Widevine L1 allows you to watch licensed streaming (streaming) video services like Netflix or PrimeVideo in FullHD resolution. Subscribe and enjoy high-quality movies and series in excellent quality.
With the movie sorted out, let's move on to Youtube, the official version of which supports video quality up to 1080p/60 fps. Unfortunately, the standard client does not support autoframe, but you can install an alternative Smart Youtube that has autoframe (fractional frequencies are also supported), and the quality is not limited to Full HD. Here you can run video even in 2K, but the 4K stick does not pull anymore.
And of course IPTV television. I have been using Edem TV (now called ILOOK TV) for several years now, where hundreds of TV channels are available for $1 per month, including HD quality. To watch IPTV, I use Perfect Player, which is even in the standard Android TV play store.
It has autoframe and channels are displayed at the correct frequency.
Playback of all channels perfectly, switching between channels about 2 seconds.
In general, as you can see, the prefix quite copes with the video, but by and large it is not needed for anything else. But if you want to use a browser, then this is also not a problem. In the store you can download a browser adapted for Android TV - Puffin.
It is trimmed in everything and works quickly, and the controls are adapted to the console. If you need to find information on the Internet or read the news, this is a good solution.
And of course voice search works in the set-top box. With it, you can quickly find the desired movie, just by saying its name. Or find out some information, such as the weather for the next few days. Voice search works well, the system accurately recognizes the request, even if the remote is located at arm's length.
As I said at the beginning of the article, Xiaomi Mi TV Stick is an entry-level Android TV box for HD and Full HD TVs, the only task of which is to play multimedia content and it succeeds quite well.
The stick is not expensive at all and can “add brains” to an old, but still needed TV without a smart TV. It is also a great option for a kitchen, cottage or portable device that you plan to take with you. The disadvantages of the model are quite obvious - it's a weak hardware and only 1 GB of RAM, which makes the stick slower compared to older models. But if this is not a problem for you, then Xiaomi Mi TV Stick is a good choice, especially considering its advantages: working auto frame rate, Google certification and licensed Netflix, built-in Chromecast, CEC control support, Android TV with voice search, cool Bluetooth remote control. And of course, compact dimensions and the ability to power the stick simply from a USB TV.
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CHOOSE AN ALTERNATOR - LIKBEZ!
Hello dear customers.
We are glad to welcome you in our online store.
Taking into account the current market realities and the widest range of offers for power equipment, in particular generators, we decided to reveal to you on a larger scale those nuances and understatements on the part of sellers of similar equipment that often form a distorted or incorrect opinion about the possibilities, real shortcomings and the benefits of competing products. It's no secret that in the list of parameters for choosing a generator by the consumer there are two main ones - this is power and the cost itself. The most interesting thing is that the consumer's assessment of operational reliability factors, design features, the real, and not always correctly declared by the seller, potential of the power plant often "fades" into the background. But it is precisely these criteria of "natural selection" that form the evolutionary movement of products on the market, forcing frank junk, pardon the terminology, to go into oblivion of consumer demand, and those specimens that really deserve it are placed in houses, shops, production workshops of people satisfied with the purchase .
But first things first:
Generator power.
Turning to the school physics course, you can remember the two original units of measurement of this value, kilowatts (kW) and kilovolts / amperes (kVA).
Let's make a reservation right away: Many sellers and catalogs give the so-called maximum power. Please note that this parameter provides for short-term operation of the generator set (depending on the manufacturer, the interval ranges from several seconds to several minutes). Those. the correct emphasis is to compare the nominal power (which is on average 7-10 percent lower) and the amount of energy consumption, the consumption sources that you plan to connect to the generator.
Why and what is the power factor?
Let's reveal the essence of this concept not in an academically correct but somewhat simplified, but accessible format, forgive us academics!
There is a concept Active power . It is measured in Watts. Active power characterizes the rate of irreversible transformation of electrical energy into other types of energy (thermal and electromagnetic). In a simplified everyday sense , active loads are those in which all the energy consumed is converted into heat. Examples of active power consumers: incandescent lamps, heaters, electric stoves, irons, etc. There are also Reactive power. It is measured in volt-amperes. In principle, the vast majority of household electrical loads are reactive. They are also divided into inductive and capacitive. The simplest example of the first is a coil, the second is a capacitor. For reactive power consumers, energy is converted not only into heat - part of it is spent for other purposes, for example, for the formation of electromagnetic fields. The measure of reactivity is the so-called "cosine phi" (cos φ). For example, if it is equal to 0.8, then 20% of the energy is not converted into heat. Instruments usually indicate their thermal power consumption and cos φ.
Therefore, in order to correctly understand the amount of power required by an electric consumer, one has to apply another correction factor, which now characterizes the energy consumer. Consider a variant of such a household appliance as a vacuum cleaner. The electrical resistance of the vacuum cleaner has a reactive component, moreover, of an inductive nature. The reason lies in the electric motor with windings that add their own phase difference of the same sign (direction) to the phase difference of the power generator.
How to check if 2 kW of generator power is enough to start the vacuum cleaner from it? To calculate the actual consumption, you need to divide the power of the vacuum cleaner by cos φ. For a standard vacuum cleaner, cos φ is approximately 0.5.
Thus: 1200 W : 0.5 = 2400 W. So if you have a vacuum cleaner with a power of 1500 watts, you should not run it, then when you use autonomous energy from a 2 kW generator, nothing will work.
And here is a 1. 5 kW electric heater with a coefficient of 0.9, from the same generator will work perfectly fine: 1,500 W: 0.9 = 1,667 W. So there will also be a small margin of power, for example, for a light bulb.
An important point: each power plant has its own cos φ, which must be taken into account. For example, if it is equal to 0.9, then the power plant will require 2400 W to operate the above-mentioned vacuum cleaner: 0.9 = 2667 VA. By the way, it is for this reason that the competent designation of the power produced by the power plant is Va (Volt-amperes), and not W (watts). However, very often sellers sin by misleading consumers simply by changing the letter “a” to the letter “t” in the designation of values and, of course, they ask for more money for increased power……. Some act more cunningly: they indicate the value cosφ = 1 in the characteristics, i.e. in this case, Ba=W, however, as we know from the above material, this is not at all the case.
Please note that Musstang's power product range contains the correct power ratings in kVA. Our experts will readily and absolutely reliably answer all your questions regarding the selection of parameters and the nuances that must be taken into account when buying.
GENERATOR SET TYPE
Electric generators convert the mechanical energy of the rotation of the motor shaft into AC electrical energy. By type and design, power plants are divided into synchronous and asynchronous. Consider in order the design features of each.
Synchronous generator (alternator in English terminology).
PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION: To excite an electromotive force (EMF) in the stator windings (this is the stationary part of the generator), an alternating magnetic field must be created. This is achieved by rotating the magnetized rotor, which generates a magnetic field that crosses the stator winding and induces an EMF in it.
Generators of this type are distinguished by a higher quality of the generated electricity, and they are also capable of withstanding 3-fold instantaneous overloads without damage to themselves. Also, synchronous generators maintain the voltage level in the network with an accuracy of ± 5%, which makes it possible to safely connect sensitive electronic (if an inverter is available) equipment, as well as electromechanical devices, with a reactive load reaching 65% of the rated power. The design feature of such a generator is the presence on the rotor (another name is the armature) of windings to which electric current is supplied. By changing its value, it is possible to influence the magnetic field, and, consequently, the voltage at the output of the stator windings. The role of the voltage regulator is performed by an electrical circuit with current and voltage feedback. Due to this, the ability of a synchronous alternator to smooth out short-term overloads is high and is limited only by the ohmic (active) resistance of its windings. However, this type of generator has several drawbacks: Since the winding current has to be supplied to a rotating rotor, a brush assembly is traditionally used for this.
If the generator is constantly subjected to peak power operation, the high currents cause the brushes to overheat and partially "burn out". Hence a poor fit to the collector, an increase in ohmic resistance and, in the worst case, overheating of the entire module. In addition, the moving contact inevitably sparks, which means it becomes a source of radio interference. The main disadvantage is the low degree of protection against external influences such as: dust, moisture. The standard enclosure protection class for this type of electrical equipment is IP23. A synchronous generator is cooled by passing air through itself, respectively, everything that is in the air can enter the generator. That is why the generator should not be operated in dusty places, poorly ventilated rooms, basements. From time to time it is necessary to inspect the condition of the brush assembly and, if necessary, change or clean the brushes. Taking into account the fact that the implementation of these simple recommendations will definitely extend the life of a synchronous generator, and also taking into account its positive characteristics, such generators occupy a prevailing position on the scale of domestic use.
Asynchronous generator .
OPERATING PRINCIPLE: This type has no windings on the rotor. Therefore, to excite the electromotive force (EMF) in its output circuit, the residual magnetization of the rotor is used.
From a structural point of view, an asynchronous generator is simpler, more reliable and more durable. In addition, since the rotor windings do not need to be cooled (they simply do not exist), the case of the asynchronous generator is completely closed and has a high degree of protection against environmental influences - the protection class of the electrical equipment shell for this type is IP54. Asynchronous generators are not susceptible to short circuits, so they are best suited for powering welding machines. However, there were some drawbacks: this type of generators does not tolerate peak overloads, they are able to maintain voltage with an accuracy of only ± 10%, so the use of highly sensitive electricity consumers (TVs, computers, etc. ) in such networks is not recommended. In addition, the parameters of these devices allow you to connect electrical appliances to the network, with a reactive power not exceeding 30% of the nominal values. And since such consumers as: an electric motor (refrigerator, pump, power tool) at the time of launch need a short-term 3-fold increase in power, you need to make an appropriate margin for the actual output of the selected generator set or buy a generator equipped with a "starting boost" system, which naturally increases the cost his.
Since we have focused on the design of generators, it is very important to mention the quality of the components that make up the alternators. One of the key is winding. In the "correct" generators, it should consist of a copper wire with a different cross-sectional value, depending on the rated power of the generator. Since copper is now in price, the armature and stator windings of the generator significantly increase not only the weight but also the cost - however, only the copper winding is able to withstand significant loads without harming itself, and therefore the generator. Paradoxical as it may seem, but even on this, some “not comrades to the consumer” are trying to save money using aluminum wire, the characteristics of which differ significantly. The situation is aggravated by the fact that you cannot see this with your own eyes, since none of the sellers of "crooked" generators will show you the internal technical device, but will be limited to verbal assurances. However, even the expected appearance does not always imply the actual use of copper. Aluminum wire is coated with a copper-like coating. On the link below you can see what it really looks like:
Unfortunately, practice shows that the number of such "quality generators" is very large. The easiest way to identify such products is the low price of the generator. If you are offered the option of a new generator at a ridiculous price compared to analogues, think about it, because the seller will make money on you anyway, and in any case you will then pay the difference for the missing quality, only this will happen a little later and will take you much more time to fuss with finding a repair shop and paying for work to restore performance.
One of these examples with a link to the site where the review material was published on 01/09/15 is attached: store Zdorovi.com generator KrafTWele/KraftTech GERMANY KW6500 6.5 kW for 11700 UAH.
It was possible to buy an analogue cheaper, but what the Honda engine promised bribed. First, it was voiced by the seller, and then by the online consultant. When the generator arrived by mail, it turned out that the engine and the generator itself were Chinese, and the quality was disgusting even for Chinese handicrafts. In the exchange of goods within 14 days, I was refused without explanation. And they also said that the Honda motor is my invention, no one could tell me that. And they confidently explained that high-quality GERMAN motors are installed on GERMAN KraftWele generators!
Of course, I fooled myself.
My fault is that I did not pay attention to the name of the unit - KraftWele. The word wele does not exist in German.There is welle.
It's the same Chinese trick as the Panasonics, Akaiwa, etc. tape recorders.
PHOTO.
The photo shows the quality of the casting of the motor and generator. Dear employees of the store (especially the peremptory female voice without a name) -
such a marriage is unacceptable, not only according to German quality standards DIN EN ISO 9001, TS 16949, DIN EN ISO 10 204.
But also according to our less strict GOST 2789-73 and GOST 26645-85.
For readers, I’ll explain simply - sharp and thin casting residues will fall off after a while from vibration and get inside the generator. In this case, a short circuit will occur and, as a result, a fire. Therefore, the generator cannot be German (there is a serious quality control due to the strictness of insurance companies). There is not even a mandatory Made in EU mark. There are no instructions in Ukrainian / Russian, and the certificate of quality of electrical equipment with SUCH quality of the generator casting would not have passed even with us.![]()
I do not recommend this store to anyone, including the people of Kiev, since the store does not have a legal or even a postal address, and you will not be able to find them if you try to return a low-quality product.
Mechanical engineer 1st category
Molchanov Yuri
Please note that the Musstang power product line consists of both types of generator sets. However, an asynchronous type generator, due to its specific purpose for welding, is offered for sale by reservation. The winding of any of the proposed generator modifications is made of high quality copper.
"Propulsive force"
The main source of electricity generation is not the generator itself, but its engine. They are gasoline and diesel, forced air-cooled or water-cooled.
Gasoline ICEs
Small and medium power generators use carburetor, or, as they are also called, gasoline engines. The efficiency of an internal combustion engine largely depends on the applied design solutions, the quality of the components and the working volume of the engine. In terms of technology used, many engines are similar. It was possible to achieve a qualitative leap in the fight to reduce fuel consumption by switching to an overhead valve engine layout. One of these schemes with a camshaft in the crankcase and a rod drive is the most common and is designated "OHV" (see figure below). Its introduction allowed to reduce the surface area of the combustion chamber, and reduce the heating of engine parts. The process of controlling mixture formation by means of an electronic fuel injection system on generator sets of small and medium power is possible, but has not yet been massively implemented, since replacing a carburetor with injection significantly increases the cost of the engine. Therefore, the main gradient of the generator power increase remains the volume of the internal combustion engine, i.
e. generator power will largely be determined by the "horsepower of the internal combustion engine"
It may seem to many that the larger the volume of the internal combustion engine, the better and longer the generator will work. This is not entirely true: if the generator is designed for 2.8 kVA of power, then it is irrational to equip it with an engine with a volume of 290-320 cm3, since the price of the generator and fuel consumption will initially be large, and the engine resource in this matter will be secondary. There is another approach: many nameless manufacturers do the following: they install a smaller engine and combine it with a larger generator set. And voila: super efficient generator + compact + low fuel consumption + ridiculous (compared to others) price. However, the buyer will definitely not see a miracle in this version. Such a symbiosis is actually detrimental to the engine, because it is "loaded" with those loads for which it is not designed. The process of its extinction begins some time after the start of operation with the actual impossibility of delivering the power declared by the dishonest manufacturer “uphill” and ends with a breakdown or overheating. Unfortunately, there are a lot of second options on the Ukrainian market. This is partly due to the fact that when buying a generator, buyers themselves do not pay attention to the parameters of the internal combustion engine, but are only interested in electric power (we already wrote about the pitfalls in this matter above). So if you choose a mini power plant, do not be too lazy to find models from different manufacturers that are similar in parameters and carefully analyze the initial values \u200b\u200bof the characteristics of both the generator and the internal combustion engine. all this at the lowest price - "who has a mind, let him think" and can be sure that he is being offered to buy a low-quality product. In the case of a generator, laws, mathematics, physics and technological developments work, and not nanotechnology and energy conversion from air, so quality products always cost more.
The next interesting question is fuel consumption. We draw your attention to the fact that many, again, nameless and, unfortunately, some well-known manufacturers (or sellers of such products) measure and declare this value not in “liters per hour”, but in grams kWh. At first glance, everything is simple: The first unit characterizes the fuel consumption in grams for doing work of 1 kWh. The second value characterizes fuel consumption in liters over time. But with the recalculation of values, the average consumer will have difficulty. The fact is that here it is necessary to take into account how long the unit produces 1 kWh, and the calculation will be correct only if you understand the load on it per unit of time, also in order to convert grams to liters you need to know the density of the fuel ...... As you like such calculations? Dishonest sellers thus do not report the actual fuel consumption in liters / h, but deliberately convert it into hard-to-understand values, which in real operation can unpleasantly surprise the owner.
Diesel engines
Diesel engines have obviously lower fuel consumption than a gasoline engine. Its compression ratio is limited mainly by the strength and heat resistance of the parts of the piston and crank-rod group. For normal operation in hard conditions, they have to be made very strong, i.e. heavy. As a result, at high shaft speeds, they wear out faster than the lighter parts of a carbureted engine. The above does not mean that the diesel is less durable (this is the time to remember the high margin of safety), but only explains the reason why it “prefers” lower operating speeds. However, you won't save that much on fuel. So if there is no particular reason to opt for a low power diesel, consider a gas station with a good engine that is both quieter and easier to maintain. In addition, the diesel engine has several disadvantages: high cost, relatively large mass, demanding fuel quality in winter operation. We will not take into account the complexity and high cost of repairs - they are compensated by reliability and durability.
Please note that the Musstang generator line includes models based on gasoline and diesel engines. Our experts will be happy to answer all your questions regarding the delivery time and operating parameters of generator sets
380 OR 220 Volt?
Why are three phases needed when you can’t figure out even one at once? But the fact of the matter is that without them, nowhere. Let's start with the fact that a three-phase connection scheme allows you to transfer the energy of three single-phase sources through just three wires (in the case of a single-phase scheme, it would be necessary to allocate two wires for each such source). At the same time, at the output, such a generator produces both household 220 volts and industrial 380 volts. Single-phase generators that produce alternating current with a voltage of 220 volts and a frequency of 50 Hz can only be connected to single-phase loads, while to three-phase (380/220 V, 50 Hz) - both of them (there are corresponding sockets on the dashboard, the number of which units of different manufacturers are different).
With single-phase generators, everything is more or less clear: the main thing is to correctly “count” all your consumers, take into account possible problems (for example, high starting points) and select a unit with an appropriate real output power. When connecting three-phase loads to three-phase generators, the situation is similar. But when connecting single-phase consumers to three-phase generators, a problem arises called phase imbalance.
When connecting a load to one phase of a three-phase generator, only one stator winding is used, while in normal mode all three are involved, respectively, it is really possible to remove no more than 33% of three-phase power for synchronous generator sets. An attempt to load the unit more can lead to overheating of the stator winding and its burnout, and this is a direct path to an expensive repair.
FINALIZING SUMMARY.
When choosing a generator, it is necessary to accurately evaluate the required parameters. You must first determine which consumers will be connected to the generator at the same time. When calculating, it is better (if possible) to check the power of consumers according to their passport data, if this is not possible, then it is better to turn to qualified specialists, electricians. Pay special attention to consumers that have electric motors in their composition: refrigerators, pumps, lawn mowers, etc. This is due to the fact that to start the electric motor, power is required 3-3.5 times higher than its rated power. It is also necessary to take into account the possibility in the future to increase the number or capacity of electricity consumers, if there is a need for it
For a simplified calculation, take twice the nominal power of the appliance with the largest electric motor, add to it the nominal power of other appliances containing electric motors, if you are sure that they will not turn on at the same time, and add to the sum of the power of all other active consumers (lighting, electric heater, boiler, etc.), which will work in conjunction with the first. Increase the received power by 10% - this will be the power of the generator you need. If the amount of energy is “off scale” and a generator of such power is not affordable, conditionally remove consumers according to the degree of demand until they approach the desired value in terms of power.
One last thing, if you've read this material, you're probably considering or considering purchasing a generator.
