Pirelli Angel Scooter Tires
$40.85 $121.41
$51.07$187.30
Sale 35% Off!
21
Shinko 421 Off Road Scooter Tires
$31.96 $36.77
$39.95$46.95
Sale 22% Off!
10
Michelin Pilot Street 2 Tires
$35.16 $108.16
$43.95$128.95
Sale 16% Off!
5
Pirelli Diablo Rosso Scooter Tires
$86.73 $155.95
$108.41$205.29
Sale 24% Off!
7
Michelin City Grip 2 Scooter Tires
$74.36 $141.36
$92.95$180.95
Sale 22% Off!
5
Pirelli Diablo Scooter Tires
$70. 36 $161.41
$87.95$245.43
Sale 34% Off!
7
Closeout
Pirelli SL26 Performance Scooter Tires
$37.56 $71.47
$46.95$91.95
Sale 22% Off!
4
Michelin S83 Scooter Tires
$43.96 $51.70
$54.95$73.95
Sale 30% Off!
6
Shinko 504 Mobber Tires
$53.56 $56.56
$66.95$69.95
Sale 19% Off!
6
Heidenau K66 4-Season Scooter Tires
$52.58 $145.58
$66.00$145.00
2
Pirelli SL60 Tires
$70.55 $79.73
$88.19$125.53
Sale 36% Off!
1
Avon Viper Stryke AM63 Scooter Tires
$54.
84 $189.21
$73.99$198.26
5% savings
6
Metzeler FeelFree Scooter Tires
$67.42 $164.87
$91.95$275.76
Sale 40% Off!
4
Bridgestone Hoop Tires
$48.19 $143.35
$62.58$189.18
Sale 24% Off!
3
Shinko SR 567 / 568 Scooter Tires
$51.96 $83.96
$64.95$106.95
Sale 21% Off!
6
Shinko SR 723 White Wall Scooter Tires
$57.56 $80.96
$71.95$103.95
Sale 22% Off!
1
Bridgestone Battlax SC1 Scooter Tires
$75.54 $134.45
$80.07$168.43
Sale 20% Off!
Dunlop Scootsmart Scooter Tires
$60.
76 $99.77
$75.95$114.95
Sale 13% Off!
1
Shinko SR 550 White Wall Scooter Tires
$41.56 $47.35
$51.95$59.95
Sale 21% Off!
1
Michelin Pilot Road 4 Scooter Tires
$171.96 $205.92
$214.95$276.95
Sale 26% Off!
9
Shinko SR 426 Scooter Tires
$47.96 $51.93
$59.95$67.95
Sale 24% Off!
2
Shinko SR 425 Scooter Tires
$31.96 $49.06
$39.95$67.95
Sale 28% Off!
1
Michelin City Extra Scooter Tires
$41.17 $63.05
$50.95$79.95
Sale 21% Off!
Shinko SR 007 Scooter Tires
$36.
76 $47.76
$45.95$70.95
Sale 33% Off!
Shinko SR 428 Scooter Tires
$47.96 $122.96
$59.95$153.95
Sale 20% Off!
1
Mitas MC34 Super Soft Tires
$94.95 $118.95
3
Closeout
Pirelli SC30 Tires
$53.10 $56.93
$66.38$70.50
Sale 19% Off!
Bridgestone TH01 Tires
$171.49 $212.70
$179.05$238.54
Sale 11% Off!
6
Mitas MC20 Monsoon Tires
$79.95 $82.95
Shinko SR 714 Moped Tires
$29.56 $47.
56
$36.95$62.95
Sale 24% Off!
Shinko SR 723 Scooter Tires
$47.96 $56.96
$59.95$67.95
Sale 16% Off!
Pirelli MT15 Tires
$63.12 $67.32
$78.91$81.75
Sale 18% Off!
Mitas MC19 Off Road Tires
$81.95 $88.95
1
Mitas MC34 Street Tires
$84.95 $94.95
1
Shinko SR 704 Moped Tires
$29.56
$36.95
Sale 20% Off!
Avon Streetrunner AV83 Tires
$83.95 $141.95
Shinko SR 009 Scooter Tires
$42.
36
$52.95
Sale 20% Off!
Dunlop TT93 GP Pro Mini Race Tires
$111.16 $117.65
$138.95$146.95
Sale 20% Off!
Shinko SR 429 Scooter Tires
$51.96 $52.81
$64.95
Sale 19% Off!
Bridgestone Battlax SC2 Scooter Tires
$130.77 $210.80
$140.96$247.88
Sale 15% Off!
Shinko SR003 Stealth Scooter Tires
$71.16 $77.50
$88.95$96.95
Sale 20% Off!
4
Heidenau K64 Tires
$91.00 $182.00
$114.00$182.00
1
IRC MB520 Tires
$52.76 $65.
32
$65.95$68.95
5% savings
Shinko SR 400 Scooter Tires
$26.36
$32.95
Sale 20% Off!
IRC NR21 Rear Tires
$23.58 $79.78
$28.95$112.95
Sale 29% Off!
1
Kenda KD1 KWICK Tires
$38.90 $49.45
$58.95$73.95
Sale 33% Off!
1
Mitas MC35 S-Racer 2.0 Soft Scooter Tires
$99.95 $121.95
Kenda K329 Scooter Tires
$26.11 $31.94
$39.95
Sale 20% Off!
Metzeler Roadtec Scooter Tires
$89.07 $110.63
$98.97$120.53
8% savings
Mitas MC20 Monsum Scooter Tires
$126.
95 $156.91
Mitas MC35 S-Racer 2.0 Super Soft Scooter Tires
$99.95 $126.95
Bridgestone Battlax BT-012 Rear Scooter Tire
$208.56
$231.73
10% savings
Shinko SR009 Raven Scooter Tires
$45.56 $48.56
$56.95$59.95
Sale 19% Off!
Mitas MC35 S-Racer 2.0 Medium Scooter Tires
$99.95 $121.95
Mitas MC32 Winter Scooter Tires
$89.95 $92.95
Bridgestone Battlax BT-011 Front Scooter Tire
$145.60
$161.78
10% savings
Out of Stock
Heidenau K58 Scooter Tires
$48.
40 $86.40
$55.00$103.00
Sale 16% Off!
6
Out of Stock
Heidenau K46 Moped Tires
$42.00 $49.00
$53.00$61.00
Sale 20% Off!
Out of Stock
Bridgestone Trail Wing TW Scooter Tires
$76.69
$101.55
Sale 24% Off!
Out of Stock
Heidenau K38 Vintage Scooter Tires
$50.40 $59.40
$56.00$68.00
Sale 13% Off!
Out of Stock
Heidenau K32 Moped Tires
$47.00
$59.00
Sale 20% Off!
Out of Stock
Heidenau M3 Moped Tires
$41.02
$49.00
Sale 16% Off!
1
Out of Stock
Kenda K413 Scooter Tires
$23.
72 $39.92
$32.95$64.95
Sale 39% Off!
1
Out of Stock
Heidenau K80 Scooter Tires
$44.00 $77.00
$68.00$96.00
Sale 20% Off!
1
Out of Stock
Heidenau K75 Scooter Tires
$55.64 $59.64
$67.00$72.00
Sale 17% Off!
2
Out of Stock
Heidenau K61 Racer Scooter Tires
$55.00 $78.78
$69.00$98.00
Sale 20% Off!
18
Out of Stock
Heidenau K56 Tires
$46.87 $53.87
$49.00$51.00
Out of Stock
Heidenau K55 Tires
$45.17 $95.00
$57.
00$119.00
Sale 20% Off!
Out of Stock
Heidenau K3 Vintage Scooter Tires
$71.24
$84.00
Sale 15% Off!
Out of Stock
Heidenau K63 Scooter Tires
$56.00 $76.00
$70.00$96.00
Sale 21% Off!
Out of Stock
Heidenau K42 Moped Tires
$48.59
$61.00
Sale 20% Off!
Out of Stock
Pirelli SL36 Synergy Tires
$68.73 $78.72
$89.95$120.70
Sale 35% Off!
Out of Stock
Heidenau K64R Racing Tires
$295.00
1
Out of Stock
Heidenau K62 4 Season Scooter Tires
$65.00 $86.80
$81.
00$108.00
Sale 20% Off!
1
Out of Stock
Heidenau K66S 4-Season Snow Scooter Tires
$102.00 $146.57
$127.00$169.00
Sale 13% Off!
2
Out of Stock
Heidenau K52 Tires
$58.20
$71.00
Sale 18% Off!
Out of Stock
Maxxis M6024 Scooter Tires
$88.35 $96.85
$93.00$103.00
6% savings
Out of Stock
IRC Universal Moped Tire NR53 2.75-18 42P
$35.95
IRC SS-540 Tires
$55.95
Out of Stock
Kenda K413 Scooter
$42.95 $59.95
IRC Tire SS-530
$98.
95 $132.95
Out of Stock
Kenda K413 Scooter Tire 110/80 10
$54.95
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Tires for a moped 2.
50-17 studded + tube
In a warehouse in Kiev
Delivery across Ukraine
650 UAH
Buy
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for mopeds 2 17 studded + six-layer chamber
In a warehouse in Kiev
Delivery in Ukraine
750 UAH
Buy
Tires for a moped 2.75 - 17 highway + chamber
In a warehouse in Ukraine
Delivery 90 in Ukraine0003
620 UAH
Buy
tires on a moped 2.50-17 + Highway Camera
in a warehouse in Kiev
Delivery in Ukraine
600 UAH
Buy
tires for moped 2.75 - 17 shesens
In stock
Delivery across Ukraine
620 UAH
Buy
Tires for moped 3.00-17 studded + six-layer tube
In stock in Kiev
0 Delivery across Ukraine
0002 750 UAH
Buy
tires on a moped 2.
75-17 serassed + camera
Delivery from Kiev
750 UAH
Buy
Tires on a moped 2.75-17 SRC Vietnam without a camera
Delivery from Belaya Belaya Church
858 UAH
Buy
Tire 3.00-8 for a car and on a moped of Sosoon
Delivery from Belaya Church
380 UAH
Buy
Tire for Moped 2.75-17 Petroshin L-328 Delta, TT, with camera 9Ol000 Buy
Tires for a moped 2.50-17 with a chamber road
Delivery across Ukraine
677 UAH
Buy
Tires for a moped 2.50-17 studded with a chamber
Delivery across Ukraine
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Buy
tires for moped 2.75-17 serassed + six -layer camera
Delivery in Ukraine
812 UAH
Buy
tires for moped 2.75 - 17 six -layer + Highway Camera
Delivery
9000 697 - 779 - 779 - 779 UAHfrom 3 sellers
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Tires for a moped 2.75-18 with a chamber highway six-layer
Delivery across Ukraine
779 UAH
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tires on a moped 2.
50-17 Shosseida + camera
Delivery from Kiev
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tires for a moped 2.75-18 + camera Six-layer
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tires for moped 2.50-17 highways + camera
Delivery in Ukraine
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tires for moped 2.75-17 An exploded herbal six-layer + chamber 9Ol000 Sellers
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tires on a moped 2.50-17 stud+camera
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Wheel drive circuit reinforced 428h*98L SFR Gold for Delta moped, Alfa
in warehouse
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Wheel drive 428H*98L on the Delta moped, alpha Fukumeru
at the storage
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Wheel drive chain 428H*98L for moped Delta, Alpha CHOHO
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400020002 BuyWheel drive circuit 420h*100L on a Delta moped, Alpha TMMP
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Well, for starters, we ignore the advertising descriptions of a wonderful “hold” on any surface (“universality” of rubber is a myth, and a highway declared as such holds much worse than a special one in difficult conditions).
The principle of “taking the most expensive and popular one” is also not suitable for choosing motorcycle tires: if you choose the wrong type or profile, the same advantages can turn into a serious problem, therefore, we carefully study the characteristics. And here it is important that you know about the types, tire design, features of the choice of operation (oddly enough) and the timing of changing tires. Let's fill in the thematic gaps together.
Each class of motorcycle has its own type of “shoe”, designed for efficient transmission of torque, better grip, stability when maneuvering in the conditions in which a particular bike is most of its life. Conventionally, motorcycle tires can be divided into road, off-road and racing. Within the class, tires are divided according to tasks: road, slick, rain, cross (endur), mud, studded, and dual-use. Diameter and width - depend on the class and dimensions of the equipment. By class, we will consider it.
In this category, most of the products are designed for limited use and have an extremely small resource - just one race or training session. Provides the best grip on asphalt. Their profile allows you to lay the bike almost parallel to the ground in the turn, however, only after warming up.
These motorcycles mostly "live" on the track, observing the primer only from a distance, from the height of the main road, so their "shoes" are designed for asphalt: the most durable, designed for the heavy weight of the motorcycle (passenger + luggage), and "all-weather".
To the characteristics of sports - do not hold out. The scatter of equipment in this category is very large - from "evil" tuned fifty dollars for mini-cross to light enduro for travel, so there are a lot of models here.
You can combine them into classes according to their purpose: purely sports, amateur and rally:
For medium-sized classics, small-capacity, retro and custom motorcycles, various road tires are produced with a low semicircular profile, moderately developed tread, revealing working properties at temperatures below 80 about C.
There are a lot of options, as well as specifics (all season, rain, universal).
Motor tires are designed for high side loads. Its profile - even for the widest models - is more rounded than that of an automobile, consists of a working part responsible for traction, and a side part that “works” only when tilted in a turn. Parts not in contact with asphalt are also very important. It depends on them how much the tire will weigh, how much it will be washed under the weight of the bike, how long it will last.
Hidden part between the inner and outer layers of rubber, which gives rigidity and takes on the load. The structure of the cord is multi-layered. Steel wire, or threads made of polyamide, aramid fibers (Kevlar), or polyamide are arranged in dense rows either across the tire, or - intersect at an angle of 30–40 degrees in the direction of its rotation.
The edge of the tire, going inward, into the grooves of the edges of the rim, having an annular metal (internal) reinforcement.
The reliability of its fixation in the rim determines the life of a motorcycle tire, and sometimes a motorcycle with a driver.
The working part, covered with an intricate pattern, the size, shape and depth of the grooves of which depend on the purpose of the product. A larger high tread is typical for off-road and cross-country motor tires, a lower, smooth one - for road and racing.
A zone connecting the tread and the bead that is not inferior to them in strength, but does not work with either the road surface or the rim. It is on it that “letters” are applied that reveal the properties and characteristics of the tire.
The three main indicators of motor rubber - width, profile (height), seat diameter (internal) - are measured in millimeters and inches. There are about a dozen markings adopted in different countries, but only four systems are widely used: Metric, Alpha, Standard (inch), Low profile (inch).
For each of them, corresponding tables are available. For our market, more characteristically - Metric.
The name of the manufacturer (brand) and the name of the model are written in the largest letters on the product. The next in size is a "sausage" of numbers and Latin letters, indicating the width, height of the profile, the diameter of the rim for which the tire is intended, the weight limit per axle (rear / front), and the speed to which you can accelerate on this rubber. A little smaller - the country of origin, certificate, information about the material, design. Further, “small print” indicates no less important properties, which we will also consider separately.
I’ll immediately note the most common mistake in reading the rubber size index: the letter R is not a “radius”, as some motorcycle and car owners believe. This letter means "radial" model and indicates the radial direction of the inner carcass reinforcing layers of this tire.
There are two main designs - radial - when the cord layers run across the tire, and diagonal - when they cross.
You don’t see the letter “R” in the index, but you see a gap, or “B” - it means the rubber is diagonal, and if “reinforced” or “reinf” is written nearby, it is also reinforced with an additional layer of cord.
"Sausage of letters and numbers", for example, 120/70 ZR17 (73W) TL, stands for:
The arrow with the words "wheel rotation" strictly regulates where the tire should rotate during operation. If there are letters ND (non directional) on board, it can be placed in any direction.
If the manufacturer clearly limits the installation location of the tire, he writes “Front” on it for the front or “Rear” for the rear. Without this marking, rubber can be placed on either side.
TL or tube less - as we have already deciphered earlier - tubeless. TT stands for tube type, or "suitable for camera use."
All manufacturers unanimously recommend “not wearing” rubber for more than five years, and if the equipment has been “shod” in it for ten years, even mothballed, urgently change the “bagels” without hesitation.
A couple of decades ago, the resource of tires was regulated only by their external condition and the courage of the driver, but this was even before the mass “epidemic of planned obsolescence of goods”. Now, two years are taken into account in the calculation of the service life, and five years is the allowable storage period for rubber in a warehouse, as a result of which it should not be sold, but disposed of. The release date is marked with two two-digit numbers enclosed in a circle or oval. The first is the week number from the beginning of the year, the second is the year of production itself.
It is a common practice to buy lightly worn race slicks or cuts - only makes sense for training on the "ring" or karting track, but not on the DOP. In addition to poor handling, longer stopping distances on slippery surfaces, and increased risk of blown tires at high speeds, riding old tires carries legal risks. When passing a technical inspection, a cracked or worn protector (hypothetically) can cause a refusal to issue a diagnostic card.
In fact, this is the same malfunction as badly worn brake pads. Also, in the event of an accident, due to the unsatisfactory condition of the rubber, the insurance company may refuse to pay you, referring to your favorite excuse - speeding (based on the increased stopping distance).
"From the factory" modern motorcycle tires are covered with a preservative silicone impregnation that prevents drying out during storage. It is slippery and penetrates deep into the pores of the rubber. Until you wipe it on the asphalt - do not count on a good "hold" and "sharp" brakes. It is not necessary to wash off the grease with gasoline or other solvent (it is useless), just ride measuredly for the first couple of hundred kilometers. By the way, after long-term storage of used road motor rubber, it is also recommended to “run in” it in order to remove a layer of coarsened material from the surface.
Even if you provide ideal storage conditions, motor rubber still ages over time, becoming covered with microcracks.
If the "age" of tires has exceeded 10 years or more - do not buy them, despite their attractive appearance.
Signs of critical wear:
The principle of evaluating the residual depth of the tread grooves is now outdated - most manufacturers add an integrated tire wear indicator to the options, which is worth focusing on.
Let's start with what happens if you put a wider tire back without changing the "native" rim. This question worries many inexperienced motorcyclists who want to look more "sporty".
Firstly, you will not wait for the expected increase in traction due to the increased area of \u200b\u200b"support". Wider rubber, squeezed by the edges of the rim not in size, will tend to “up”, so the calculated wheel profile will be violated. It will be higher, respectively, the contact patch will not increase. Secondly, the controllability in corners will worsen, the speedometer will “lie”, the weight distribution will change due to the rear of the motorcycle raised.
This is highly discouraged for most modern sportbikes that hit the track, but many classic models, nakeds and cruisers are often fitted from the factory with a combination of radial front and diagonal rear tires.
Unlike the radial, the diagonal one is a little “softer”, allows for moderate overload, is sold a little cheaper, so why not?
The choice of how much to inflate the wheels to is a constant compromise between the loads on the rubber and its capabilities. On most motorcycles, the recommended pressure for each axle is indicated on a sticker (on the fork and swingarm), but this value is only relevant for the rubber model that was supplied from the factory. On a new model, look for a designation on the tire (next to the max load load) indicating the maximum allowable cold pressure. Do not take a tire if this value is lower than recommended for your motorcycle.
Let's say your bike has a sticker with the recommended 2.25 bar for the front and 2.5 bar for the rear wheel. If you ride mainly with a passenger, with luggage, making long “flights” along the track, your motorcycle weighs 200 or more kilograms, and its volume is close to a liter, keep the pressure in the rear wheel at least 2.
8–3.0 bar, and in the front 2.5 bar. If you ride around the city, alone, with almost no luggage, and are not fond of “flights”, it would be optimal to set equal pressure in both wheels at 2.2 bar.
For lightly loaded medium-sized engines, the interval varies from 2.0 to 2.3 bar, and for slender "Chinese" 2.1 bar - in the front, 1.9 bar - in the rear cylinder (especially if the tires are also Chinese). The pressure in road tires must not be lowered below 1.9 so that the motorcycle does not start to “float” in corners or on bumps - this is dangerous.
The more we inflate the closed volume of the wheel, the more “round” it becomes and the smaller the area in contact with the asphalt. A larger contact patch means greater rolling resistance and accelerated tire wear, a smaller one means worse stability, lower braking and acceleration efficiency. Up to a certain point, these nuances are compensated by the tread, so on motocross and enduro bikes, the wheels can be lowered to 1.
2 bar - front and 0.8 bar - rear. However, air is an unreliable business, therefore, in hard enduro and trials, a gel filler is now more often used, which allows maintaining a pressure of 0.4 and 0.9bar. Such a set will not live long, but this is a sport in which, as we remember, rubber consumption is not considered.
Definitely yes. The older the cylinder, the harder its surface and the lower the residual tread height, the worse the bike “holds” the road. Bald or improperly matched tires increase the braking distance, and can cause an unexpected “leaving” the track into a ditch. On an over-inflated tire, the fork or pendulum will “beat” hard, and on a flat tire, the motorcycle will become less predictable in corners and “gobble up” more gasoline than in a normal ride.
No, because their rims are not sealed and you simply cannot inflate the tire.
Not all alloy wheels are suitable for tubeless, so always check what type of rubber was on the bike before. In addition, the hole in the rim designed for the camera nipple may not match the size of the new nipple.
Only if the damage to the wheel does not allow you to inflate the tire, and you still need to get to the “repair”. In all other cases, the idea is controversial. The inner surface of a tubeless rim is not designed for other rubber to constantly rub against it, creating additional heating, and the inner part of a tubeless rim may have protrusions that injure the chamber. It is possible to get a “beautiful” wheel by putting a tubeless tube on a spoked rim, but objectively, this will increase its weight (remember the unsprung masses), and reduce the life of the camera. About when it frays to break - you will know already on a flat tire. You can repair a puncture of a tubeless tire without removing the wheel, but you will have to remove and patch the tube with its disassembly.
Undesirable. Even if it does not look worn yet, its resource is already less, from frequent “heating-cooling” cycles, it becomes rougher than new, frays or cracks faster. The old tube may not fully expand and fold if the new rubber has a lower profile (and internal volume) than the previous one.
If it belongs to the Racing Street or Street Legal class, this is a completely justified choice for the owner of a sport, street, naked or classic with claims to “aggressiveness”. In other cases, it is not recommended. Firstly, the use of racing slicks or cross-country tires is not allowed on the DOP. Secondly, sports tires are designed for intensive work with a certain warm-up. At competitions, before the race, they are warmed up in special covers, and then they are “given” one warm-up lap so that from the first seconds of the test race they can provide the bike with good contact with the asphalt (sticking).
In the city, even if you ride aggressively, the slick simply does not have time to warm up to operating temperature (more than 80 about C). Or even before it does not heat up for the whole trip, given the ragged rhythm of traffic lights and possible "toffees". Accordingly, it will not give adequate grip when trying to “give a corner”, the wheels will be demolished during braking, and instead of an energetic start, the bike will “grind” on the spot.
Ideally, pre-washed, treated with a silicone spray, complete with a disk and in special cases. Naturally - in a dry, dark place with a constant temperature, away from fire, children and animals.
Change your shoes for the winter, or find and set aside good rubber in reserve - make sure that during storage it:
