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Tire valve stems are the valves located in a vehicle’s wheel where the tires are inflated from. They contain a spring loaded valve core that seals itself using the air pressure inside of the tire. Over time valve stems may get old, crack, become brittle, or begin to leak, causing larger problems with your tire and your driving experience.
When valve stems begin to leak, the tire will no longer hold air. Depending on the severity of the leak, the tire may leak air slowly, or in more sever cases not hold air at all, warranting replacement of the valve stem.
In most cases the the fastest way to replace a valve stem is to take it to a tire shop and have them remove the tire and replace the valve stem using aid of a tire machine. However, for instances where this is not an option, a tire can be removed and the valve stem changed manually. In this step by step guide we will cover how to remove a tire from a wheel manually, using a tire iron, to replace the valve stem.
Materials Needed
Step 1: Loosen the lug nuts. Loosen the lug nuts of the wheel from which the valve stem is going to be replaced.
Step 2: Raise the car on jack stands. Set the parking brake, and then raise the vehicle and secure it on jack stands.
Step 3: Remove the wheel. Once the vehicle is raised, remove the wheel and set it flat on the ground with the outside of the wheel facing up.
Step 4: Deflate the tire.
Remove the cap from the valve stem, and then remove the valve stem core using the valve stem removal tool to release the air from the wheel.
Once the valve stem core is removed the tire should deflate on its own.
Step 5: Separate the tire’s bead from the wheel. Next, use the sledgehammer to break the tire’s bead free from the wheel.
Hit the sidewall of the tire using the sledgehammer in the same place until the bead breaks loose.
When the bead breaks loose you may hear a crack or popping sound, and you will see the inside lip of tire visibly separate from the lip of the wheel.
Once the bead has been broken, continue around the tire with the sledgehammer until the bead is completely broken all the way round the tire.
Step 6: Lift the lip of the tire up from the wheel. Once the tire’s bead has been broken, insert your tire iron between the edge of the rim and the inside lip of the tire, and then pry upward to pull the lip of the tire over the edge of the wheel.
Once you have pulled the lip of the tire over the edge of the wheel, work the tire iron around the rim until the entire lip of the tire is off the rim.
Step 7: Remove the tire. Grab the tire by its removed lip and pull it upward so that the opposite lip that was at the bottom of the wheel is now touching the top edge of the rim.
Insert the tire iron in between the the tire’s lip and the edge of the wheel and pry upwards to pull the lip over the edge of the rim.
Once the lip is over the edge of the rim, work the tire iron around the edge of the wheel until the tire is removed from the wheel.
Step 8: Remove the valve stem. Once the tire is removed from the wheel remove the valve stem. Use the needle nose pliers to pull the valve stem free from the wheel.
Step 9: Install the new valve stem. Take your replacement valve stem and install it from the inside of the wheel. Once it is in position use the needle nose pliers to pull it through into place.
Step 10: Reinstall the tire. Reinstall the tire onto the wheel by pressing it down over the the rim until the bottom bead clears the edge of the rim.
Then press the side of the tire down underneath the edge of the wheel, tuck your tire iron in between the lip of wheel and the bead, and then pry the bead over the lip the of the wheel.
Once the bead clears the lip of the wheel, work your way round the entire wheel until the the tire is completely installed on the wheel.
Step 11: Inflate the tire. Once the tire has been re-installed onto the wheel, turn on the air compressor and inflate the tire to the correct specification.
For most tires, the recommended pressure is between 32-35 pounds per square inch (psi).
Step 12: Check for leaks. Once the tire is properly inflated, double check to make sure that there are no leaks of any kind, and then reinstall the tire onto the vehicle and lower it off of the jack stands.
For most cases, the easiest course of action to replace a valve stem would be to simply take it to a tire shop, have the tire removed with a machine, and then have the valve replaced.
However, in the instances where that is not an option, a valve stem, and even a tire, can be removed and replaced manually with the correct tools and the correct procedure. If you find that there is a leak or damage in the tire and not just the valve stem, you may want to replace the tire entirely.
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Written By: David Munoz (and 3 other contributors)
Difficulty
Difficult
Steps
5
Time Required
25 minutes - 1 hour
Sections
1
Flags
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Locate the stem valve and remove the cap.
Using the Schrader valve core bit in your 1/4" driver, unscrew the valve core from the stem.
Allow the tire to fully deflate before proceeding.
Edit
To reach the valve stem, you will need to break the bead on the tire. The bead on a tire is where the rubber meets the rim.
Insert the pry bar in between the rim and the tire. Push the pry bar as far down as possible. This will require a large amount of force.
The bead is broken when the tire is visibly separated from the rim. Use the pry bar to hold the tire down by leveraging it against the small lip inside the rim.
Edit
Locate the stem valve on the inside of the rim. It will be a large piece of rubber underneath the lip.
Use the diagonal cutters to cut off an appropriate amount of rubber from the under-side, as shown.
Remove the stem by pulling it through the face of the rim.
Edit
Insert the new stem up through the rim. Use the diagonal cutters to help pull the stem into its seated position. There will be an audible pop when it is in correctly.
When using the diagonal cutters, take care not to pinch the stem too tight.
If you are having trouble seating the stem, use the rim as leverage.
Edit
The tire must be re-inflated. Simply use your air compressor to inflate the tire. We recommend re-inflating to 32 p.s.i. to check for leaks.
When inflating, the tire will produce a loud pop as the bead returns to its place. If the tire is having trouble inflating, squeeze the tire against the rim to create a seal.
Edit
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home / About company / Helpful information / Arrangement and adjustment of lever-weight safety valves
Valves are divided into two types: Inside the body of the safety valve there is a valve, the plate of which, with the help of guides, enters the inlet pipe and is in close contact with the seat. A stem is attached to the valve plate (gate) with a cotter pin. After that, the design of the shutter and the stem attached to it is inserted into the body, which is closed with a lid.
There is no packing between the valve cover and the poppet stem. Thus, the device does not provide complete tightness, therefore it is forbidden to use it in systems transporting flammable and explosive working media, as well as in mobile vessels.
On the body cover there are posts with screws for fixing the retaining rod and an arc-shaped guide that prevents excessive lifting of the lever when the valve is opened. The lever itself is installed in such a way that the notch on the lever fits into the notch of the stem triangle. Then, a horizontal rod is inserted into the cutouts in the uprights on the cover, which is fixed with screws and lock nuts to prevent the rod from moving in one direction or another. When installing a safety valve on a pipeline, boiler, container or tank, the flange on the inlet pipe is attached to the pipeline. Shut-off valves must not be installed on the supply pipeline supplying the working medium to the valve. The outlet branch pipe must be withdrawn to such a distance as to exclude the ingress of the working medium (hot or superheated water, steam, etc.
) to nearby service personnel.
The lever is the main element of these valves, on which a load (weight) is hung and fixed with a locking screw. The opening of the device depends on the position of the weighting agent: the farther the load is located on the lever and the greater its weight, the more pressure is needed to operate the device. So, in safety lever-load valves, the force of the weighting agent coming from the lever to the stem counteracts the pressure of the working medium, which creates a force on the spool.
With this method, a more precise adjustment of the valve is made. Upon completion of the adjustment and fixation of the weighting agent, a protective cover is put on the device and it is sealed in order to prevent unauthorized reconfiguration.
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Control valve CV 216/316 MZ
Used for zone and room control. Available up to DN 25, nominal pressure PN 16, with external thread.
Key Features
Function:
CV216 MZ: 2-way control valve
CV316 MZ: 3-way mixing or diverting valve
Valve options and accessories:
- Male threaded fittings for brass union nuts and gaskets.
- Version without the use of technical silicone.
Suitable actuators:
MC15/24 or MC15/230
Installation:
The valve mechanism can be damaged by impurities in the pipe network. It is recommended to use filters and separators in the hydraulic system.
Purchase TOUR ANDERSSON equipment in the G-SCM.ru online store with delivery within the Russian Federation
Click on the logo to calculate the estimated cost
Manufacturer:
TOUR ANDERSSON
A country:
Sweden
Operating pressure:
PN16
Body material:
Brass
Plunger:
Brass
Stock:
Chrome nickel steel 1.
