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A fuse is an electrical safety component that contains a wire that melts or breaks if the current is too high. They are used to keep voltage spikes or wiring problems from damaging other wiring or devices.. If one or more of your electrical systems like your radio, power locks, power windows or interior lights aren't working, check the fuse for that system. Using your car's manual or the diagram on your fuse box, you can easily locate the offending fuse. If the inside of the fuse is black, or if it is still clear but the wire inside is broken, it should be replaced. If the fuse is blown again after being replaced, you may have a more severe wiring problem. O'Reilly Auto Parts carries a variety of fuses for most vehicles.
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1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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Power fuse 30A Ford Edge
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Proparts
Power Fur ALL 30/60A Gazelle (set 2 pcs)
Delivery from Odessa
9000 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 80 UAH/setBuy
Gazel-avto
100x Glass fuse M5x20mm, 0.
5-30A, set rt
Delivery across Ukraine
557.395 UAH
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100X glass fuse M5x20mm, 0.5-30A, set of EP
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576 UAH
288 UAH
Ephir.com.ua
100x Frown Frown M5x20mm, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A, 0.5-30A set ps
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548.02 UAH
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Online store Pricess
Power fuse 30A 32V relay Lanos 9 Delivery from Kyiv Lanos 9002
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online store YASAMAUTO
Block of power fuses (undercut) Gazelle, Sobol, Valdai (for 4 fuses 60/30a)
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297 UAH
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Gazel-avto
Power fuse Gazelle Sobol Ruta Business UAZ GAZ 3302 (30A and 60A) set of 2 pcs. (Letz) in a package
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50 UAH/set
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Gazel-avto
Power fuse (fading) 30a (Germany) 156.
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32 UAH
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Power Power 30/60A Gazelle (2pcs) (Pr- In the plant) m 0874643
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43 UAH/pair
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Automarket
Power fuse 30+60a set (LETZ) 111-A 9Ol000
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9000.88 UAH101.44 UAH
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MIX Audio
Power fuse block Gazelle, Sobol, Valdai (under the hood) (for 4 fuses 60/30A) М 3750303 PD 114281
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to 269 UAH
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online store "TIRLABI" power 30A 32V PACIFIC green for Nissan Vanette Cargo, Serena C23 91-01 year
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60 UAH
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Romis Auto Parts
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Fuse 30a Geely Emgrand EC8 (Gili Emgrand 8) 1067001123
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Author: Evgeny Balabas
Today we will blaspheme a little.
Let's desecrate the most sacred thing in the electrics of a car, namely, fuses! Let's learn how to correctly and relatively safely do what is strictly forbidden to do - put closing jumpers, in common people - "bugs" ...
The fuse is one of the oldest electrical devices. It is believed that the inventor of the fuse is Louis Francois Clément Breguet, a French electrical engineer. In 1847, he conducted a series of experiments and found out that inserts made of thin wire of a fixed cross section can burn out when the current in the electrical circuit exceeds a certain force proportional to the cross section. The practical use of fuses as devices began approximately from the middle of the 19th century - first in industrial and household electrical engineering, and with the massive spread of "steel horses" - in the automotive industry.
Despite the invention of various types of automatically resetting fuses - spring, bimetallic, semiconductor - the most common Louis Breguet disposable fuse is still the most common and effective device for protecting electrical circuits in any car from overcurrent and short circuit.
In both budget and premium vehicles, almost all electrical consumers are protected by fuses. And in the manual for any car, and even more so in the maintenance and repair manual, there is always this (or very similar) phrase:
Do not even temporarily install jumper wires instead of the appropriate fuses, as this may damage the electrical wiring and cause a fire!
Well said, and we do not intend to argue with it. However, we note that there are all sorts of circumstances, including not quite ordinary ones. And any owner of a middle-aged car that has seen life can find itself in a situation where some important fuse for driving has burned out - in the circuit of the fuel pump, ignition, windshield wipers in the rain, headlights at night, etc., and there is nothing to replace it. This can happen not only in a city where there are a lot of car shops, sympathetic citizens, as well as car services and tow trucks, and finally, in the wilderness, when there were no spare fuses in the gas box, there are no shops and just good people nearby, but you still need to go .
..
So it's better to have knowledge "for a case that won't happen" than to be helpless in an unlikely but still extreme situation! How does the supposedly Japanese proverb sound, which is so loved to be written in statuses on social networks? "A samurai carries a sword all his life, even if he only needs it once in his life" ... Or something like that ...
Young car owners are well acquainted with modern U-shaped knife fuses, and, as a rule, are familiar with their predecessors, common on Soviet cars - rod-type fuses with their always lousy contact. But what happened EVEN EARLIER, most likely, they no longer remember ...
But until the 70s in cars (by the way, not only in Soviet ones!) fuses were used, just very similar to modern U-shaped knife ones. They were a textolite plate with riveted springy legs-contacts and 15-20 centimeters of spare wire wound around it. If the wire between the contacts burned out (the fuse worked), the driver simply unwound a few centimeters from the reel and connected the contacts to it again.
The fuse restored its properties!
Not to say that this principle was ideal - the contact in the wire fuse often deteriorated over time, because it depended on the strength and accuracy of the winding of the wire. However, the system still existed for many years on a variety of cars and trucks and was considered quite efficient. And pay attention: by modern standards, this is the most natural "bug"!
"Bug" - but not a "bug"! A “bug”, dangerous and prohibited for use, such a fuse would be considered if RANDOM wire was used in it! But the wire in it was strictly calibrated, with a cross section corresponding to the required protection current, the value of which was printed on the fuse case! Therefore, if you take a modern knife-type fuse (burnt out) and connect its legs with a wire whose combustion cross section approximately corresponds to the current marked on the fuse initially, then such a “bug” will not pose a danger to the car's electrical wiring. But how to understand - what kind of wire is needed?
But for this there is a special calculation formula.
But more often, for simplicity, a reference table filled out according to this formula is used! At one time, when technical creativity was considered entertainment, and not degradation in social networks, every student who attended the radio club knew this sign. For making a fuse for a home-made design with your own hands was the norm! In the reference plate, for convenience, the cross section of a solid copper wire has already been converted to a diameter.
For the most common automotive fuse ratings, the table looks like this. If other values of currents are of interest (and these tables usually include wire diameters for making fuses from 0.5 amperes to 200-300 amperes), then it will not be difficult to google the full version.
For example. In the common “twisted pair” LAN cable that provides Internet to apartments, one core has a diameter of about 0.5 mm - a piece of such a wire will work as a fuse at a current of about 30 amperes. In stranded wires of the ShVVP type, used to connect electrical appliances to a socket, veins with a diameter of 0.
2 mm are often used - for 7 amperes ... If you fold it in half, you get a 14-15 ampere fuse. Well, etc.
OK, now we know how to make a relatively safe “bug” for the current we need ... And it’s not difficult to find and braid the wire into veins, in principle, it’s easy - you can, in extreme cases, cut and clean from insulation, the wire of a carrying lamp, a USB cord, or even some regular electrical circuits in a car can be temporarily "amputated" by cutting off the wire from something not very necessary like a rear foglight ... In the end, extreme situations sometimes require extreme solutions .
But how can we understand what current the wire is designed for if we do not know its diameter? After all, it is unrealistic to determine the thickness by eye! And as a rule, there is neither a caliper nor a micrometer in the trunk ... And again, grandfather's tricks will come to the rescue - simple, but reliable.
We take any cylindrical object - a pencil, a screwdriver, a match, a twig - and wind the wire around it tightly coil to coil. The more turns, the higher the measurement accuracy will be, but usually 15-20 turns are enough. Wound - we measure the total length of the winding with a ruler and divide the resulting number of millimeters by the number of turns. The result is the diameter of the wire!
The bores will mutter: “Well, yes, I don’t have spare fuses with me, but I found a ruler in the car, you see!”. Especially for bores: well, the 21st century is in the yard ... Many, for example, have a ruler in their smartphone!
... well, the last step - if the wire is found, its diameter is measured, and it suits us. Tightly and tightly wind a piece of copper vein on the legs of a burned-out fuse and insert it into place. Ready!
And finally, we remind you once again that doing such repairs, even far from civilization and help, must be done very, very carefully! Make a “bug” only when you are finally convinced that a fuse similar to a burned-out factory fuse cannot be pulled out of the circuit, at least temporarily, where it protects something that you can temporarily do without, such as rear window heating or something similar.
And if there are no spares, there is nowhere to pull out and there is no one to turn to for help - then just wind the "bug" ... But do not forget to replace it with a normal fuse as soon as possible and find out the cause of the burnout!
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