ByKris Peter ATVs
Disclosure: We may get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.
The Yamaha Big Bear 400 was a tough and reliable quad that could get the job done. Its superior power was a perfect trade-off for top-end speed, and its rugged appeal, towing capabilities, and mighty engine were a big hit with consumers. People adored this wheeler, even with its imperfections.
Often compared to a Fourtrax 300 and confused with a Wolverine, the Yamaha Big Bear 400 made itself quite a following during its 12-year production run. Sporting a mid-size chassis, dual driveline modes, smooth transmission, and a powerful engine, the Big Bear was a breakthrough for Yamaha.
The quad remained true to Yamaha’s reputation of producing reliable and durable vehicles until the very end – so much so that a lot of Yamaha enthusiasts were saddened by the discontinuation of the model in 2012. This read will enlighten you on why the Big Bear is so well-loved by consumers, as you learn about its specs and features, highs and lows, and more.
The Yamaha Big Bear 400 is the 17th model released by Yamaha since its 1980 Tri-Moto launched in the U.S. The Yamaha Big Bear 400 was initially designed for work and carried the same terminology as its 1987 350-class predecessor. It was not the first ATV to have 4×4 specifications, but it offset it by being the first with fully camouflaged bodywork, making it popular as a hunting vehicle.
The four-wheeler was produced from 2000 to 2012 before it ceased production to develop the rest of Yamaha’s ATV lineup.
Yamaha got busy during the Big Bear’s production run, creating several different trims across all model years:
If there is anything that best signifies the carrier name of this model, it is the engine.
The power mill of this quad is comparable to a V8 fitted into a mid-size 4×4. It has a dirt bike-style BSR33 carb, a 4-gallon gas tank, a large oil-cooler, and a CDI ignition.
On the outside, the quad’s flexible plastic fenders are indestructible, easy to clean and offer adequate splash protection. Front and rear bumpers protect the mechanical components, and racks provide plenty of cargo space. Electronics and fuses are under the seat, along with the airbox and battery.
06 US gallons/4 liters reserve.
2 psi/22kPa (0.22 kgf/cm²) and 36 psi/250 kPa (2.5 kgf/cm²).
The Yamaha Big Bear 400 had 30 trims during its 12-year production run based on online references and research.
Big Bear owners have a thing or two that they love about the vehicle. For some, it is the auto clutch manual shift and five-speed transmission. For rock crawlers, it is the super low first gear. It is the absence of a CVT belt (according to them, these belts require more to maintain). And for the working John, it is the wheeler’s mid-range power and towing capacity.
Riders appreciate missing out on having a turbo lag when letting off and quickly getting back on the throttle. Farmers marvel at the quad’s ability to pull 12-foot logs with no difficulty. People who have bought the vehicle say that they made a great choice in choosing the Big Bear over the Wolverine, and most prefer the manual-shift transmissions over the more recent trims that came out.
The Big Bear top speed is 52 mph on stock – but only averages up to 45 mph for most owners. While the quad is meant for hard work and low-end grunt, there are a few Yamaha Big Bear 400 parts that you can upgrade to improve its top-end speed and power delivery and its look and off-road readiness. Here are a few of them:
A word to the wise – performance mods to your engine will not make you hit a top speed of above 60 mph due to the gear ratio on these wheelers – meaning changing the gear ratio is the foremost thing you have to do.
If you intend to keep the direct drive shaft and rims stock, the only way to go is to get bigger tires. However, tires bigger than 25″ (stock to mount) are hard to come by – you may end up spending over $750 for custom rims and rubber.
API classification should be SG type or higher and should meet the JASO MA standard.
If you cannot find it there, look on the left side of the frame behind the front tires or the lower frame rail beneath the engine.Yamaha Motor Company Limited is recognized as a world leader in motorsports that has spawned the ATV industry in the ’80s. The Japanese continue to produce a wide array of life-enriching products and services – including motorcycles, off-road vehicles, personal watercraft, speed boats, and outboard motors.
Its mission of creating Kando is ever-present in its product offerings and services. Yamaha continues to innovate, excite, inspire confidence, and strengthen ties to expand its offerings worldwide.
The Yamaha Big Bear 400 is tough as nails and thrives under battlefield conditions. Whether you are on 10,000 feet of elevation, in extremely high or sub-zero temperatures, or on slick or coarse terrain, it never fails to deliver. It may not be a hotshot by today’s standards.
But during its time, it was one of the most sophisticated multifunctional four-wheelers on the market. This revolutionary four-wheeler has and continues to earn itself a remarkable reputation.
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The ATV clutch is responsible for both gear shifting and vibration reduction during the ride.
ATVs for children are no exception.
As a rule, the occurrence of any problems with this component of motor vehicles, the rider feels immediately. It is recommended to service the ATV clutch every 6000-7000 km, but sometimes all kinds of problems can occur earlier. The rate of wear of the functional components of motor vehicles directly depends on the conditions of its operation.
The following points can serve as a signal that something is wrong with the motorbike clutch:
Depending on the severity of the failure, the problems described above can be solved either by repairing the vehicle's clutch or by replacing it completely. As for Chinese models of ATVs, here it is necessary to check whether the nuts on the clutch are securely fastened.
Poor assembly of motorcycles can also cause suspicious sounds in the variator area.
To change the clutch on a children's ATV with your own hands, you will need:
In general, this procedure is quite simple and fast. In older models of ATVs, everything is somewhat more complicated. Before proceeding with the dismantling of any components of motor vehicles, be sure to read the instructions from the manufacturer.
Even in Chinese models of ATVs, the clutch boasts an impressive margin of safety, and therefore its breakdown often occurs as a result of improper use of this equipment.
The main causes of premature ATV clutch wear include:
The only way to prolong the life of your ATV clutch is to use it properly and carefully. It is advisable to use good oil, and do not forget about timely maintenance.
The use of high-quality clutch discs in the ATV ensures a smooth start of the vehicle, and also fully ensures reliable grip without slipping even under fairly high loads. The exception is children's electric ATVs, in which there is simply no clutch disc.
ATV clutch usually needs to be adjusted no more than once a year. Before starting work, place the vehicle on a special footboard.
The process of adjusting the clutch on a motorbike is quite simple, and consists of the following steps:
If necessary, refer to the user manual for assistance. If the cover prevents access to the clutch, then dismantle it; Since adjusting your ATV's clutch is easy, you can repeat this procedure as needed. In the vast majority of motorcycle models, this functional component is adjusted in a similar way. If there are certain nuances in the clutch setting, they are explained in detail in the official vehicle manual.
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After repairing or replacing the clutch, and sometimes during the operation of the car, the gears stop shifting clearly and smoothly, the car twitches, and slips when starting off. This is due to an unadjusted clutch, and we will talk about this in our article.
Clutch adjustment can be done independently
The approximate mileage interval through which it is recommended to check and adjust the operation of the clutch is 10,000 kilometers. It is worth checking with the auto maintenance schedule set by the manufacturer - other numbers may be indicated here.
Clutch adjustment is mandatory after replacing/repairing the clutch or its components, such as the drive cable. The procedure is required even if there is a suspicion of a deviation in the amplitude of the pedal from normal values:
To make sure the clutch needs adjustment, a simple test will help. We start the engine, gently release the clutch pedal and slowly move off. If the car remains in place when the clutch is fully released, then the pedal travel has been increased. If the car starts moving before you take your foot off the pedal, the travel is too slow.
A clutch that is not adjusted in time will quickly fail, so it will soon have to be repaired or completely replaced. With an increased pedal stroke, the clutch is not fully disengaged, its disc is constantly pressed against the engine flywheel. With a small stroke, the clutch does not have the opportunity to turn on the driven disk to the end, which leads to slipping and lack of torque.
Driving with an unadjusted or defective clutch is dangerous and could result in an accident!
Lack of adjustment - the reason for the rapid failure of the clutch
Clutch adjustment can be handled without contacting a technical center.
But if you are not sure about the causes of the problem, you do not have the necessary tools and have not encountered auto repair before, entrust the work to professionals.
To adjust the clutch, you will need a ruler, liquid lubricant, pliers and open-end wrenches in two sizes - 17x14 and 13x14.
Most often, two types of clutches are installed on modern cars:
The adjustment procedure depends on the type of node.
To begin with, we find out whether the pedal travel is decreasing or increasing. We press the pedal all the way and measure at what distance from the floor it stopped. We release the pedal and take measurements again.
Subtract the first from the second. Most models have a normal stroke amplitude - in the range of 12 - 14 cm, it can be clarified in the technical documents. If the number is less, the pedal stroke must be increased, if more, the pedal travel must be reduced.
After measurements, we proceed to the adjustment procedure itself:
Stage 1 - open the hood, find a rod near the transmission lever that secures the cable coming from the clutch pedal.
Stage 2 - lubricate and loosen the nuts that secure the stem with liquid lubricant.
Stage 3 - Using wrenches, turn the nut that was closer to the pedal. If you turn the nut towards the clutch pedal, the free play of the pedal will become larger, if in the opposite direction - less.
Stage 4 - again measure the amplitude of the pedal travel. If it is within the normal range, we tighten the second nut - the control nut - to the stop. This is necessary to fix the adjustments made.
If the stroke is still too large or small, tighten the nut that is closer to the pedal.
Checking the operation of the clutch. The pedal should be pressed easily, without noise and friction. The car should not skid or jerk when starting. Gear shifts should be smooth and precise.
Hydraulic clutches are mostly self-adjusting. But you can also adjust them manually if the pusher on the working cylinder has a thread and a control nut. Here's how to do it:
Stage 1 - check the fluid level in the clutch. It should be at the normal level.
Stage 2 - creating conditions for working under the machine. You can put the car on a ramp or risers, use a lift or a viewing hole.
Stage 3 - we are looking for the pusher of the working cylinder.
Stage 4 - unhook the spring from the fork with pliers. Press the fork forward as far as possible, measure the distance between it and the pusher rod.
We release the plug, we carry out the same measurements. We get the size of the clutch gap, which we compare with the standard. If it does not fit into the range specified in the technical documentation (usually about 5 mm), we carry out the adjustment.
Step 5 - remove the spring mounted on the slave cylinder bracket and yoke.
Stage 6 - Loosen the fixing nut on the tappet threaded connection, turn the adjusting nut in the direction of the slave cylinder to increase the clearance. Or in the opposite direction - to reduce them.
Step 7 - Tighten the control nut when the gap dimensions are normal.
At the end, we carry out a control check of the operation of the clutch.
Hydraulic clutch, like mechanical, can be adjusted manually
The above procedures are universal, they can be performed on machines of any manufacturer. The essence of the procedure is always the same - to reduce or increase the pedal travel by tightening or loosening the cable, or by adjusting the hydraulic pusher.
