Genuine Kayaba KYB OEM Factory Forks & Shocks Suspension Parts Skip to main contentDisplaying 1 - 30 of 2401 Products
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In the world of motorcycle racing, two main suspension manufacturers supply parts to almost all the major brands in the motorbike industry. One of these manufacturers, Kayaba – otherwise known as KYB – famously develops OEM suspension parts such as shocks and forks for Suzuki, but you’ll also find them on pioneering machines made from brands like Honda and Yamaha. Why do these huge names fit their bikes with Kayaba motorcycle suspension kits? The answer is simple. It’s because KYB suspension kits are among the most advanced and reliable in the world.
What type of Kayaba suspensions do you sell?
At Teknik, we stock an extensive range of KYB fork parts and KYB shock absorbers for a broad range of bikes, whether you want to improve the performance of your cruiser or enhance your motocross bike’s ability to tackle bumpy tracks. You may simply want to replace your current suspension with KYB forks to make your motorcycle safer.
Just some of our most sought-after Kayaba motorcycle suspension kits and components include:
Whatever OEM KYB parts you require to repair or enhance your motorcycle, you can feel confident you’ll find them here at Teknik.
What motorcycle brands are Kayaba suspensions compatible with?
Established in Japan over a century ago, KYB is now the second-largest manufacturer of suspension parts in the world. It primarily manufactures OEM parts for Yamaha, one of the top-selling motorbike brands. However, many KYB motorcycle shock parts are also compatible with brands like:
The most straightforward way to find out which KYB forks will be best for your motorcycle is to give our specialists a call.
What services does Teknik provide?
At Teknik, we’ve been a leading supplier of suspension parts in Sydney since 2001. Thanks to our reputation for excellence, we now sell Kayaba forks and suspension parts online to every location in Australia. Our workshop services include:
Why Choose Teknik Motorsport?
At Teknik, we’ve been a leading supplier of genuine Kayaba parts for nearly 20 years, boasting one of the most extensive ranges of parts and tools in the nation at prices that can’t be beaten.
Because we also offer a full range of workshop services, we’re the only contact you need to ensure your bike’s suspension parts remain immaculate. So, for high-value prices, unrivalled product choice and superb customer service, look no further than Teknik.
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Have you ever wondered how your ATV’s suspension works? Do you need to adjust or lower your ATV suspension but do not know how? Knowing how your ATV suspension works and how to adjust it is important, as it will allow you to enjoy better quality rides.
ATV suspension works by helping the quad stay stable on tough terrain. Shocks and springs help resist rapid compression and unstable bouncing. You can adjust the preload, rebound, and compression of your shocks to make your rider softer or stiffer and raise your ride height.
In this article, you will learn how your ATV suspension works. I will also show you how to adjust, lower, and soften it. Let us get started.
An ATV suspension helps your ATV vehicle get over rough terrain. Unlike a regular car’s suspension designed for pavement and flat roads, an ATV suspension is designed to help you drive off-road.
When driving off-road, you will encounter ruts, bumps, rocks, ditches, logs, branches, and various other obstacles that you just won’t find on-road. The suspension ensures that your ATV vehicle can drive over these obstacles and not get damaged.
A suspension, in simple terms, smoothes out your ride. If you are driving on smooth pavement, the suspension does not have to do that much.
However, if you drive off-road, it takes a lot more work to smooth out the ride. That is why ATV suspensions are more complex.
The suspension is responsible for other things as well. It makes sure that your vehicle is stable, even when driving on rough terrain. It consists of various parts that help it do its job, including springs and shocks.
I will go over what these components do in the next section, explaining exactly how your ATV suspension works.
As mentioned before, your ATV’s suspension has several parts that do several things to ensure your vehicle can drive smoothly, even on less than smooth ground.
I will go over several of these parts in this section. Although there is always a lot more to learn about how suspensions work, this section should give you a pretty good understanding of what your suspension does.
The two top things to know about are the springs and shocks. These shocks help absorb the force acting on your vehicle.
For example, when you drive over a rock, the shock absorbers help absorb the shock that your vehicle would receive. If they do their job well and absorb the shock, you will not feel it as much.
ATV shocks usually have oil in them. This oil helps prevent the suspension from compressing. There are various designs available. You might get a shock with an oil reservoir within the shock.
This oil works against the compression that comes with normal bumps and helps keep your vehicle stable.
Also, the springs help prevent compression. The springs’ job is to get your vehicle to “spring” back into its original position instead of being compressed when it goes over a bump or rut. If the springs are strong, your vehicle will not compress as much.
It will not bounce back and forth as much, as the springs will hold it back from that. You will not feel the bumps so much in your body as a consequence. Also, you will have additional ground clearance.
If your springs are old and weak, they will not do as good a job in resisting compression. Your ATV will compress more with every bump and rut. You will feel them more in your body, and you will have less ground clearance.
What you might not know is that there are several types of shocks on the market. Depending on which type of shock you have, you may be able to make certain adjustments. Some shocks do not allow you to make certain adjustments.
Here’s a helpful video to give a visual:
There are many types of shocks available. Right now, I will focus on two main types.
This type of shock has an oil reservoir built into the shock itself.
The problem with this kind of shock is that as the shock moves back and forth when you go over bumps on the road, the oil can heat up. The reason it can heat up is due to the friction of the shock’s movement.
A monotube shock is the most common type of shock on ATV vehicles. If you have a standard ATV vehicle, you probably have a monotube shock. What is the disadvantage of this kind of shock?
When the oil heats up due to the friction of the shock’s movement, foam can form. This foam reduces the effectiveness of the oil and its capability of resisting compression.
However, some shocks have separate reservoirs. A remote reservoir is connected to the shocks by a tube. You can put a remote reservoir anywhere on your vehicle.
A piggyback reservoir is not located in the shock but right by it. It is normally attached to the shock; hence the term piggyback. However, since it is not inside the shock, it will not heat and foam up like regular monotube shocks.
I mentioned that some types of shocks have different adjustability options. Let me go over that in the next section.
Generally, you can adjust the preload, compression, and rebound of the shocks. However, not all shocks allow you to adjust them in the same ways. I will explain what each of these adjustments is.
The first thing I will discuss is adjusting the preload of your shocks. The preload refers to how much pressure is put on the shocks by default. You will be able to adjust the preload on most shocks, even basic shocks.
Usually, there will be a collar on the shock, which will allow you to adjust the preload. However, not all shocks will have the same type of collar.
Some shocks will have a collar and locking ring that gives you more flexibility in how much preload you can put on your shocks. Other collars might only have five levels of adjustment.
This adjustment is up to you. However, keep in mind that the softer the ride and the less preload, the more likely it is for your suspension to bottom out.
I would recommend that you raise your wheels and entire vehicle off the ground while adjusting the preload. It is simply easier to turn the collar that way.
Adjusting the preload might be the only way to adjust the compression – as I mentioned before, most shocks, even basic shocks, at least allow you to adjust the preload.
Some shocks will have double locker rings. To adjust the preload:
The next type of adjustment is compression. The compression helps prevent your suspension from bottoming out. It is the damping, and it controls the speed of the movement of the shock’s shaft into the body of the shock.
Adjusting the compression allows you to control the speed of the flow of fluid. If the fluid flows too fast, the shock might be too stiff. If it is too slow, the shocks can compress and move rather quickly, which can cause them to bottom out.
So, how do you adjust the compression damping? Usually, there will be an adjustment knob on the body of the shock. It might also be located on the shock reservoir.
There might be several adjustment settings. Usually, the shocks will have a needle valve system and not orifices. When adjusting a shock with a needle valve, you adjust the oil flow, which affects the compression.
I will say that for most shocks, even aftermarket shocks, there is no high-speed compression adjustment. As such, the adjustments you make to the compression damping will matter for small bumps and ruts, not large bumps.
What kind of adjustment is better? I would recommend keeping the oil flow nice and not too slow. Otherwise, the shock can bottom out. The tires will stay connected to the ground.
It will be easier to brake. You do not want to make it too soft. You also do not want to make it too swift. You can adjust the compression based on the track or trailing you are driving on.
Finally, I will discuss adjusting the rebound. Remember, the point of the springs is to make sure your shocks rebound back into their original positions after compressing when hitting bumps or ruts. They can rebound quickly, or they can rebound slowly. That is what this adjustment is for.
If the shocks do not rebound quickly enough, and you keep hitting more bumps and ruts, they will have to compress again. However, to ensure that your suspension is working properly, it needs to compress and rebound after reaching a bump.
If it is not doing that, it will have lost all of its compression travel. It will not work properly, and you may feel your ATV moving quickly from side to side. That is not a lot of fun.
Either way, look for it on the rear shocks of your ATV. Your stock front shocks will probably not have this adjustment possibility, but if it is a second hand ATV with aftermarket front shocks installed, you may very well find this adjustment option on the front shocks.
I know that what I wrote here might seem confusing if you do not know much about suspensions and ATV mechanics.
That is why I am linking the following video, which should help you understand the basics of ATV suspension tuning:
Here is a video that explains the preload very well:
The best way to lower your ATV’s suspension is to buy custom shocks. However, you can adjust the ride height of your shocks as well by adjusting the preload. As mentioned earlier, if you raise the preload and have stiffer shocks, you will have a slightly higher ride height. If you want to lower your ATV suspension, lower the preload pressure.
As for softening the ATV suspension, that is also done by lowering the preload.
Before I close out this article, I will cover some of the most common ATV suspension terms you should know about. Once you know these terms, you will figure out how to work your ATV suspension.
The ride height refers to how high the seat of the ATV is.
This height is measured at the time the rider is on the vehicle. That is why it is referred to as ride height.
Camber refers to the tilt of your tires. If they are tilted in at the top and tilted out at the bottom, they have negative camber. If they are tilted out at the top and in and the bottom, they have positive camber. There are different levels of positive and negative camber. Why would you want a negative camber?
Tilting them out at the bottom will help increase traction when going through corners. More of the contact patch will have contact with the ground. If they have a positive camber and are tilted in at the bottom, you will lose traction on corners.
Free sag refers to how much travel the suspension has, considering only its weight and not the rider’s weight. That is how much the suspension sags under its weight. The weight of the ATV will lead to some level of compression and sag. Keep in mind that the front wheels’ free sag might not be the same as the back shocks’ free sag.
The front shocks are located on the front wheels and help them resist compression.
On the other hand, the rear shocks work on the back wheels and help them resist compression.
As opposed to free sag, rider sag refers to the amount of suspension travel used when the rider is sitting in the driver’s seat. Remember, this is not the total suspension travel that the shocks are capable of. Usually, it will be around a third or less of the total possible travel. The suspension will sag under the weight of the rider. It means that there is less travel that can be used when driving over bumps and rocks.
I mentioned bottoming out a few times. You want to avoid bottoming out when possible. Bottoming out refers to when the shock is completely compressed. When this happens, your body can feel it rather harshly, and you can get pain. By adjusting the compression to make it move slower, you can prevent the shocks from compressing completely and bottoming out.
I mentioned that you could adjust the rebound. If it rebounds too quickly and jumps up and down, it is bucking. In other words, the shocks are going up and down quickly to the point of being out of control.
At this point, I hope you understand a little more about what the shocks do and what their main components do. You should also have at least some understanding of the main kinds of adjustments you can make and why you might want to do them. The main adjustments to make are the preload and rebound adjustments.
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Have you ever read an article about ATV or Side-by-Sides and come across completely unfamiliar terminology? But what if you knew, let's say, that they are only about the thermohydraulic dissipation of kinetic energy? If this knowledge doesn’t make it easier, then it’s time to really understand the issue.
From the very first day, when you are just starting to study the chassis and suspension of your new “iron horse”, it can be easy to confuse a lot of new words and unfamiliar terms that seem to be familiar to absolutely everyone around. Moreover, knowledge (or not knowledge) of this terminology can help you improve your car (or, accordingly, achieve the opposite result). It’s worth understanding it in order to at least find the right suspension settings for your ATV or ATV.
So, in this article you will find a brief "dictionary" of key terms. Armed with new knowledge, you can unleash the true potential of your machines.
First, let's try to get acquainted with the types of settings and their names.
Spring preload: is the pressure setting (or preload) on the shock spring. A large number of basic shock absorbers have only this setting function. This adjustment is made using a female threaded ring on the shock body and a locking ring, which gives more adjustment possibilities, or a five-sided ring, the settings of which are limited to these five levels.
Increasing the pressure makes the ride harder and increases the vehicle's ground clearance. Loosening the preload makes for a smoother ride, but can cause the car to hit the bottom of the track.
This photo of a FOX shock shows how to preload the spring using the female ring on the top of the spring (turn clockwise).
Compression adjustment: this setting controls the movement of the rod in the shock body. There are two types of compression: slow and fast. There are two types of compression adjuster: adjusting knob or slotted screw head. These regulators control the flow of fluid into the damper. If the shocks compress too fast, you need to slow down the flow rate, if they are too stiff, you can speed it up. With strong compression resistance, breakdowns after a jump are prevented, the car behaves better when passing large irregularities. As for low resistance, the situation is reversed, the car will perform well when passing small bumps in the track, but strong jumps can cause problems.
This setting is especially relevant for ATVs and ATVs, with it you can control the suspension when passing uneven terrain, make jumps.
At this point, the driver can only hope that the damper settings are tight enough.
Rebound: this is the speed with which, after compression, the rod returns back to its original state - the one that was before compression. This setting controls the speed of this bounce. This will give you more control over your ATV or Side-by-Side as this setting ensures that the wheel is always in contact with the ground. Adjustment is carried out using a slotted screw or ring, which is twisted at the base of the shock absorber.
After the situation with the settings has become more or less clear, you can proceed to the study of the most common terms.
ground clearance: is the suspension height measured with a fully equipped driver and his equipment in the car.
Sag under weight (cars): this term defines the sagging of the suspension under the own weight of the car, without a driver.
Even the ATV's own weight (without rider) compresses the suspension slightly. This is called weight sagging.
Sag or Sag under driver's weight: this is the data on the full suspension travel when a fully equipped rider sits in/on the vehicle in the starting position. Usually, this value is 30% of the full suspension travel.
Pogoing: this term is used when the spring reverses too quickly due to certain settings and the shock absorbers, most often the rear ones, get the car's rear suspension out of control.
There are many varieties of shock absorbers - for every taste and budget.
Standard fixed: these are gas-filled shock absorbers that can be seen in budget models of ATVs.
They are not regulated.
With spring preload: such a shock absorber can be found in sports cars for beginners or utility ATVs. The preload is usually adjusted by tightening the adjusting nut or loosening it.
Compression adjustable: often found in sports cars, such a shock absorber is most often equipped with a spring preload function. Such a shock absorber can be produced both with a nitrogen tank located on the side and without it.
You can see the pressure adjustment knob located on top of the King's piggyback receiver.
Compression and rebound adjustable: this type of damper will be fitted with a separately attached piggyback receiver or nitrogen tank. They will also feature preload rings, compression and rebound adjustment knobs. This shock will give the rider maximum customization options.
Pneumatic dampers: Air springs have been on the market for a long time, and the FOX brand has become one of the leaders in the industry.
There is no spring or fluid in these shock absorbers, and their work is carried out due to air pressure. You can reduce overall machine weight and improve handling with less unsprung weight in the corners.
FOX is the world's leading air suspension manufacturer. With this FOX Float Evol, the adjustment possibilities are endless.
PiggyBack: this is a type of nitrogen-containing reservoir - a container that is attached to the shock absorber on the side or rear. It can be found in sport class ATVs and some Side-by-Sides models.
Remote receiver: some manufacturers offer shock absorbers with a remote nitrogen reservoir, which is connected to the shock absorber body by a nitrogen gas pipeline with a protective coating.
View all models of ATVs BRP
The Japanese company KAYABA Industry is known worldwide as a manufacturer of high quality shock absorbers.
All products of the company are distinguished by the highest Japanese quality.
In 1919, Shiro Kayaba, a Japanese engineer and entrepreneur, founded a mechanical equipment manufacturing company. In the early 1920s, the company began commercial production of hydraulic equipment and aircraft landing gear components. In the 1930s, the company began developing automotive shock absorbers and in the 1947, their serial production was started. All shock absorbers were intended for the domestic Japanese market.
In the 1950s, there was a significant increase in automotive production. Japanese automakers began to intensively invade the foreign market. The existing KAYABA factories could no longer cope with the increased demand and in 1968 a specialized shock absorber factory was put into operation in the Japanese city of Gifu. Now there are two KAYABA factories in Gifu, north and south. Shock absorbers are produced at the northern plant. By the time the northern plant in Gifu was opened, the number of employees in the branches around the world reached 1,500 people, and in 19In 70, the production of shock absorbers reached a fantastic value for those times - 10 million pieces.
In 1978, KAYABA Europe GmbH was founded in Meerbusch, Germany. Its task is to organize and coordinate sales in Europe. Please note that the shock absorbers sold in Germany are also manufactured at the northern plant in Gifu.
Now, few people know that the famous "penny" VAZ-2101 for some time (in the 70s) was equipped with Japanese KAYABA shock absorbers and they honestly withstood long-term operation in our road and climatic conditions.
In 2000, KAYABA sold more than 35 million shock absorbers, accounting for 50% of the world's total production. The remaining 50% is distributed among five other companies. The Gifu plant today employs more than 1,400 workers and covers an area of 163,500 m2. KAYABA is a leading supplier of shock absorbers to assembly lines of Japanese automotive corporations. So, for example, TOYOTA, known for its extremely stringent requirements for the quality of parts, 52% of cars produced are equipped with KAYABA shock absorbers. MITSUBISHI installs KAYABA shock absorbers on 90% of produced models.
The share of KAYABA shock absorbers in the production of various models of SUBARY, NISSAN, SUZUKI, HONDA, DAIHATSU reaches from 30% to 48%.
It is important to note that all shock absorbers - both for the assembly line and for the "aftermarket" market - are made in one batch, on the same conveyors, so there are absolutely no differences between the shock absorbers that are installed on the conveyor and those that enter the market spare parts. In addition, for some models KAYABA produces additional shock absorbers: tuning, reinforced, sports. Russian-made cars are not forgotten either.
Excellent performance: self-adjusting design, advanced technology and many technical advantages provide shock absorbers with a long service life. The best option for an economical replacement of a spent original shock absorber or cartridge. A distinctive feature of this series is that the shock absorbers are produced with a large margin of safety (60-70 thousand km more than the new (!) original shock absorbers).
The shock absorber strut is easily interchangeable to replace the broken one. The best option for an economical replacement of a spent original shock absorber or cartridge. A distinctive feature of this series is that the shock absorbers are produced with a large margin of safety (60-70 thousand km more than the new (!) original shock absorbers).
Designed for quick and economical repair of McPhersson struts. The best option for an economical replacement of a spent original shock absorber or cartridge. A distinctive feature of this series is that the shock absorbers are produced with a large margin of safety (60-70 thousand km more than the new (!) original shock absorbers).
Strut replacement is easy, which reduces wear on other suspension parts. Gas-filled struts respond better than many original struts. The use of pressurized nitrogen and Kayaba's patented valve train in this series of shock absorbers provide driving comfort and prevent gas-liquid mixing (foaming).
This series includes shock absorbers as well as struts and gas cartridges.
Patented valve train and pressurized nitrogen gas provide driving comfort and prevent air/fluid mixing (foaming). The use of pressurized nitrogen and Kayaba's patented valve train in this series of shock absorbers provide driving comfort and prevent gas-liquid mixing (foaming). This series includes shock absorbers as well as struts and gas cartridges.
Gas cartridge ideal for professional repairs, economical and easy to install. The use of pressurized nitrogen and Kayaba's patented valve train in this series of shock absorbers provide driving comfort and prevent gas-liquid mixing (foaming). This series includes shock absorbers as well as struts and gas cartridges.
The self-adjusting gas shock absorber is a new concept in the automotive industry. The principle of operation is based on the use of weatherproof hydraulic and pressurized nitrogen gas.
The GAS – A JUST KYB 55 shock absorber is ideal for driving where particularly good handling is required from the car and the wheels have a high coefficient of grip with the road surface.
The KYB Ultra SR series of high performance shock absorbers is specifically designed for sports car driving stability and driver safety. Compared to conventional shock absorbers, the shock absorbers of this series have increased rebound and compression forces, which makes the car much more stable at high speeds and with an aggressive driving style.
This category includes the following series: 24, 32, 35, 37.
The new MonoMax series are high pressure gas shock absorbers designed specifically for servicing 4x4 vehicles, pickups, and also sports models. Shock absorbers of the MonoMax series are characterized by high performance, strength and durability. MonoMax is designed specifically for those who use their car in both normal and adverse (off-road) conditions.
The new shock absorbers provide a secure ride by eliminating nuisances such as "squat" on acceleration, brake noise, and control vehicle vibration and pacing. MonoMax is ideal for those drivers who want to tune their car to change the ride height. In addition, the new range of shock absorbers is perfect for enhancing the look and performance of your vehicle while traveling off-road.
Special Features:
Monotube design with floating piston keep oil and gas completely separate, guarantee protection against “breakdown”; AGX is an adjustable shock absorber designed for high performance passenger cars, meeting all the requirements of a twin-tube shock absorber, strut and cartridge. This series of shock absorbers allows the driver to independently set the desired damping frequency, suitable for each specific driving style.
Whether commuting, traveling at high speeds on the freeway or on rural roads with a high degree of obstruction, the driver can independently adjust his shock absorber to suit any driving conditions.
This helps to save settings even in the most difficult operating conditions; KAYABA Original protection kits prevent dust and moisture from damaging the stem surface and shock seal. The appearance of signs of corrosion is only a matter of time, since the shock absorber rod is subject to all external influences. Irregular maintenance with constant external influence can lead to a decrease in the level of safety. Reduce these risks with the new KAYABA protective kits. The high original quality, which ensures a tight fit of KAYABA protection kits to the stem and easy installation, guarantees the benefit of using them.
KAYABA Upper Mounts improve the connection between shock and chassis.
