How to build a arms for atv

making your own a arms? [Archive]

ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Steering & Suspension > making your own a arms?

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LilDacktyle

06-09-2004, 04:29 PM

i been looking around for arms for my banshee and i started to wounder, how hard it would be to make my own. has anyone ever done this and if they have, was it hard and do you have any pictures of them. thanks a lot.

300XFST4602

06-09-2004, 04:35 PM

:confused:

Pvt. Maggot

06-09-2004, 04:37 PM

you'd be better off buying them it would be alot safer...but..if the welder is a pro and such i guess it could be done safely.

LilDacktyle

06-09-2004, 06:43 PM

i was thinkin about saving up like $800 and still making them, so if they do break, i could just go out and buy some. but i mean if they work then thats $800 that i could spend on other stuff. anyone else?

boogiechile

06-09-2004, 06:45 PM

I make my own a arms, swing arms, steering stems, tie rods, and modify my frames. I do not recomend you do this unless you are skilled in more than metal fab. The design and engeneering to get a perfect setup is much more than the fab work if you are doing extended ones. However, I would give you some pointers and advice if you want to try it. I make my stuff for mojaves that I race in the 300 or 350 cc 4 strk class. Check out the stuff I make at the site below. look in my super mojave album for my newest a arms and stuff.

http://www.picturetrail.com/mojaveaddict

LilDacktyle

06-09-2004, 07:13 PM

WOW! Thats pretty sick. have you ever made some arms for a banshee or any other quads? well, now that i saw yours, i think im goin to give it a try. but first i need to get metal and stuff. i was wondering, what size tubing to get and what kind to use. but if i make +3's, im goin to need to get shocks right. i cant run stock with them right? and if i do make +3's would it be better to run 19 inch shcoks? well, i wount ask any more questions until i start to get closer to makeing them. but if you could help me out i would really apreciate it. thanks

dementedyouth55

06-09-2004, 10:26 PM

Its a bad idea. it doesnt sound like you know much about welding and such. But hey your dex so go ahead

LilDacktyle

06-09-2004, 10:32 PM

hey cody, your gay!

dementedyouth55

06-09-2004, 10:34 PM

Hey your moms over here! hehehehe

06-10-2004, 07:59 AM

What do you use to bend your tubing? Thanks

boogiechile

06-10-2004, 08:11 AM

Originally posted by ab****
What do you use to bend your tubing? Thanks

conduit bender and a little heat. Always let chromoly tubing cool on its own though, never cool with water or anything. Its a crude way but it is all I have and it works.

boogiechile

06-10-2004, 08:37 AM

Originally posted by LilDacktyle
WOW! Thats pretty sick. have you ever made some arms for a banshee or any other quads? well, now that i saw yours, i think im goin to give it a try. but first i need to get metal and stuff. i was wondering, what size tubing to get and what kind to use. but if i make +3's, im goin to need to get shocks right. i cant run stock with them right? and if i do make +3's would it be better to run 19 inch shcoks? well, i wount ask any more questions until i start to get closer to makeing them. but if you could help me out i would really apreciate it. thanks

Please don't take this wrong, but with the questions you are asking I think you may be in over your head making your own arms.

I will answer some of your questions though. I have never made banshee stuff, I only make mojave parts at this time. However there is really no difference, the process is the same no matter what quad. I use 4130 chromoly tubing. you can use various sizing and I do not always use the same size but my choice is 1 inch for bottom arms and 7/8 for top. I also use thinner wall tubing than most builders to save weight. I have not had a problem with strength. Most aftermarket companies overbuild here to make sure it is hard to bend. I use .083 wall on bottom and .083 0r .065 on top. A lot of arms are built with .125 on the bottom. When I want more strength I move up to a 1 1/8 inch bottom and stay at .083 wall.

It would be best to use the longer shocks with +3 arms. I would forget about the stock shocks. Here is the area that concerns me. It is obvious that you have little knowledge of suspension geometry and when you go changing length arms and shocks you have to consider many things when you build. like motion ratios, proper frame height at shock compressed length, caster, camber, camber gain through travel, + forward or not and how much, the ever critical angle of the ball joints in relation to the arm (this will change dramatically as the arm gets longer and will cause joint bind if not right), and etc etc.

It is not easy to build good arms and you just cant extend the stockers and leave everything else on them like it is. If you do, your frame will dig in the dirt on landings even with the right springs and valving in the shocks.

LilDacktyle

06-11-2004, 12:09 AM

thanks a lot for all the help. i was wondering, where do you get the ball joints or whatever, and how much are they?

boogiechile

06-11-2004, 08:57 AM

Originally posted by LilDacktyle
thanks a lot for all the help. i was wondering, where do you get the ball joints or whatever, and how much are they?

I buy them here. prices are listed.
http://www.aedmotorsport.com/FK/index.html

LilDacktyle

06-11-2004, 12:34 PM

thanks, but what ones do you usually buy?

boogiechile

06-11-2004, 01:52 PM

I use the JM series

JM12 (3/4") for ball joints

JM8 (1/2') for tie rod ends

JM7 (7/16') for upper a arm to frame mounts (you will not want to use this size here, I make my frame with a 7/16 mount hole. A JM8 with a sleeve to 10 mm would be what you would want)

LilDacktyle

06-11-2004, 02:09 PM

for the tie rods, i was just thinking about buying some. cause i know that you can buy some that are ment for +3 arm. do you think this would be better or jus to make my own?

boogiechile

06-11-2004, 08:05 PM

the ones you buy should be ok for you. They will not work for me on my new project because it has so much travel that they do not have enough range of motion. so i have to use the heims and they just barely make it even with a modified high misalignment pin.

bens250ex

06-11-2004, 09:39 PM

boggiechile would u be interested in making some +2 a arms for a 250ex some $$$$$$ defanantly would be involved for the labor????and parts

boogiechile

06-11-2004, 10:24 PM

bens250, i would really like to make stuff for people but I can't even find the time to finish my own project. maybe I should quit my job and build quads. It would be fun. but it aint gonna happen any time soon.

LilDacktyle

06-12-2004, 05:34 PM

i was wondering, can i use d.o.m. istead of chromoly?

LilDacktyle

06-12-2004, 08:45 PM

boogiechile, today i took my a arms off my banshee. i measured the bars or whatever you wanna call em that some out and conect to make the A thing. i measure them both. the front one came out to like 11 1/2, and the back came out to be 12 1/2. for instance, if i were to make the back one 1 inch longer, so that they would need to go father up to connect, would this make it like +1 forward? hope this makes sence, it was kinda hard to explain. thnaks

bens250ex

06-12-2004, 08:46 PM

boggiechile its ok u probable would make alot of money though working on quads..

LilDacktyle

06-13-2004, 10:37 PM

boogiechile

06-14-2004, 08:31 AM

Originally posted by LilDacktyle
boogiechile, today i took my a arms off my banshee. i measured the bars or whatever you wanna call em that some out and conect to make the A thing. i measure them both. the front one came out to like 11 1/2, and the back came out to be 12 1/2. for instance, if i were to make the back one 1 inch longer, so that they would need to go father up to connect, would this make it like +1 forward? hope this makes sence, it was kinda hard to explain. thnaks

It would move the joint forward but not 1 inch. One inch on the back arm at the angle it is at would move the joint far less than I inch forward. To make a arms you need to make a jig. The jig is set with the joints +1 forward or whatever you want and whatever width you want. the jig also must set the critical angle of the joint to acheive extra droop and not really any extra jounce without binding. The shock mount location determines the travel and motion ratio and has to be done right. Caster and camber have to be considered when the jig is made. Once the jig is set up you simply build the arms to the jig pattern. The jig holds everything in place while it is put together and welded. Again I will say that I think you are in over your head ttrying to make your own arms. There is much to be delt with that you seem to lack knowledge about. Heck, about half the name brand aftermarket a arms are not built right. I suggest getting a couple good suspension books and reading up before you attempt anything.

cinigen9

06-14-2004, 10:37 AM

boogie - I would like to learn more about this - can you recommend some books that you have found helpful.

thanks
Carson

EXJUMPER

06-14-2004, 12:05 PM

Originally posted by LilDacktyle
i was wondering, can i use d.o.m. istead of chromoly?

You could use it, but the main advantage to run chromoly is that you can use thinner material and still be strong.
Hey Boogie, do you use a tig or mig to weld them up? And if you use a mig, do you preheat / postheat? It looks like you do great work. .......keep it up.:devil:

boogiechile

06-14-2004, 09:19 PM

Originally posted by cinigen9
boogie - I would like to learn more about this - can you recommend some books that you have found helpful.

thanks
Carson

I really do not know of any particular books because i really have not read many but they are out there. You can do a search and find tons of them. "Race Car Dynamics" is a great book but it is kinda on the expensive side. My knowledge of the subject was just obtained over the years and geometry is my favorite field.

boogiechile

06-14-2004, 09:25 PM

Originally posted by EXJUMPER
Hey Boogie, do you use a tig or mig to weld them up? And if you use a mig, do you preheat / postheat? It looks like you do great work........keep it up.:devil:

Both. The components like arms and stuff are tig but some of the work on the frame is mig. I'm starting to like mig on the chromoly better than tig. we have stopped preheating and never postheated. we just let it cool slowly. I do not do the welding, I design and fab all the parts and tack them together with the mig. I have the welding instructor at the college I work at run the beads after I have it tacked together.

LilDacktyle

06-14-2004, 09:43 PM

boogiechile
i was looking at the ball joints or whatever you call them, and you said you use the JM series. i was thinking about it and dont you need the male end not the female end? cause you need something that goes through the hole on the spindle and holds the arm on. or do you just use a bolt or something?

EXJUMPER

06-15-2004, 09:52 AM

Originally posted by boogiechile
Both. The components like arms and stuff are tig but some of the work on the frame is mig. I'm starting to like mig on the chromoly better than tig. we have stopped preheating and never postheated. we just let it cool slowly. I do not do the welding, I design and fab all the parts and tack them together with the mig. I have the welding instructor at the college I work at run the beads after I have it tacked together.

Thanks for the reply! So in your eye there isn't anything wrong with mig welding chromoly without the preheat....? I've heard that mig welding chromoly without preheat will cause the chromoly to get brittle. I guess I'm just looking for some insite from somebody thats done it and uses it. Thanks again for the reply. By the way, why are you starting to like mig over tig? I have never tig welded....just curious:D
James

06-15-2004, 12:48 PM

I make my own A-arms too and I asure you that Tig welding is very hard to do. Mig is simple, just get the setting right and pull the trigger. Where as tig you have to have your tungsten sharp and know when to feed in more filler rod and how much. And you have to have a very steady hand. Tig is better too because it's a lot slower than mig and is more precise. Tig is a cross between oxyacetalene brazing and arc welding. If you're going to build your own arms I would only use chromoly because there are no seams and you really need to make a jig to get your arms exactly the same every time. Plus you will have a LOT of time in getting your measurements and all just right the first time you make a set.

boogiechile

06-15-2004, 03:31 PM

Originally posted by LilDacktyle
boogiechile
i was looking at the ball joints or whatever you call them, and you said you use the JM series. i was thinking about it and dont you need the male end not the female end? cause you need something that goes through the hole on the spindle and holds the arm on. or do you just use a bolt or something?

You have to use a machined king pin that is made for the 3/4 heim or spherical bearing and then has the taper to fit your spindle and bolt to it on the other end.

boogiechile

06-15-2004, 03:43 PM

Hez, the guy that does my tig welding is very good. His welds look fantastic and the penetration and strength is excelent. I have had no problems with cracking. Several race car chassis builders and the Natl Welders rep have told me that welding chromoly with the mig and 70-2 (i think) wire is ok without any heating. The race car guys like the mig better than the tig because it makes a larger bead the they feel is stronger and is easier to fill gaps if the joint is not made just perfect. (not to mention how much faster it is) I have no idea if this is all ok or not because I am not a welder but I have not had any problems so far with the tig or mig welds.

LilDacktyle

06-15-2004, 04:15 PM

where do you get this king pin? can you buy one at a store or do you have to have one specialy made by someone?

INFANTRY RACING

06-15-2004, 04:21 PM

on your super mojave wouldn't the amount the a-arms droop cause major washout (i believe this is the correct term) and but alot of stress on your ball joints and spindles.

dawnchris

06-15-2004, 04:29 PM

Originally posted by LilDacktyle
where do you get this king pin? can you buy one at a store or do you have to have one specialy made by someone?

GEEEEEZZZ.......just buy some arms and stop it already! No disrespect, but this is clearly going to be beyond you.

LilDacktyle

06-15-2004, 05:16 PM

shut up! i already started so i might as well finish it.

dawnchris

06-15-2004, 05:20 PM

More power to ya then. I might suggest trying standard balljoints to begin with, as they are inexpensive and easy to get.
P.S. I'm guessing you're between 16 and 19.:D

LilDacktyle

06-15-2004, 09:11 PM

how much more cheaper are the ball joints? haha, your close, im 15.

INFANTRY RACING

06-15-2004, 10:03 PM

if you want to mx sell that banshee and get a better quad

boogiechile

06-15-2004, 11:51 PM

Originally posted by INFANTRY RACING
on your super mojave wouldn't the amount the a-arms droop cause major washout (i believe this is the correct term) and but alot of stress on your ball joints and spindles.

Yes there will be more wash when the droop is more. wash is just the difference in width between when the quad is at ride height and at full droop. But the only way to get a lot of travel is too add it to droop. You cant get any up travel past the point the frame hits the ground so it is fixed. There is little extra stress on the ball joints unless it is designed where they reach bind. I spent a lot of time getting the angles just right so that it never reaches bind even with all that travel. 3/4 heims would be very difficult to break anyway without binding. The suspension I am running is really more like a desert setup with respect to travel but runs the lesser amount of caster like a mx. It should be smooth on the landings and handle whoops very good. I have been riding it the last couple days to break it in around on my property. I have no jumps to test it on but the cornering feels good and you can launch it hard and instead of doing a wheelie it lifts up and all that droop lets the frt wheels still stay on the ground.

I have designed a longer upper king pin than the one in the pics so I get very little camber gain at the lowest droop and with the single bottom rail even with all that travel there is hardly any toe change(bump steer).

If the wash causes a problem it will be on the jumps. I will post how it does once I get it on a track.

LilDacktyle

06-16-2004, 12:15 AM

INFANTRY RACING

i would sell it but i just got it and i got a great deal on it. it really use to be my dads so he sold it to me for like 3000. he wants to get another quad that is a 4 stroke and isnt quick and jumping like a banshee, so im goin to try to talk him into getting a 400ex and if i like those i might sell the banshee and buy one.

INFANTRY RACING

06-16-2004, 06:48 AM

yeah. i figured if it did it would be on jumps. probably not to bad on fast jumps but on slower ones it could suck. busting a bead off landing a jump would suck:blah:

diy a arms.........um i got metal and a welder just a few qustions. [Archive]

ATV Riders Forum > Sport ATV Model Information > Honda TRX 400EX & 400X ATV Info > diy a arms.........um i got metal and a welder just a few qustions.

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jarfly

08-30-2013, 06:21 PM

So I really want wider stance but do not have the 600 for a arms just worndering if anyone has anyone has cut some stickers and cut them and extend them or just bulks a whole new set could I just almake. Jig extend and cut or is there a lot more to it. I can weld have access to fig and all that fancy stuff.

CJM

08-30-2013, 06:31 PM

1. Cut arms in half
2. Find piping that fits over them
3. Weld piping on
4. Maybe they wont break?

KKiowaTJ

08-30-2013, 08:03 PM

Id spend the $600, It will save you 10x that when you try and fail and end up with a stack of medical bills.

You will have to sleeve the cut and leave a root gap, There is no way you can just cut, Add gap, And weld it back and expect it to even land front heavy. But you will need DOM tubing, Hope and a chit ton of good luck not to end up eating chit from a hack job. Good luck either way

JOHNDOE83

08-30-2013, 08:57 PM

you can get brand new +1 forward +2 outward a arms for $350 on ebay.

still about $400 tho.

like cjm said, cut em, extended em, weld em, hope em dont break.

truthfully if you trust your welding skill and the material you use is slightly thicker it will be fine.

Stickman400

08-30-2013, 10:28 PM

Didn't someone on here already do this?

JOHNDOE83

09-01-2013, 09:21 AM

400exshop made some from scratch, but they are solid 1 piece a arms for drag racing.

Other then that I dont know if any tried or not?

Stickman400

09-01-2013, 03:33 PM

No, someone else made full on long travel a-arms in their garage on here with pics of the build and everything. I can't remember the name of the member or the thread but they looked legit and built right. Damn, somebody's gotta remember, Marc? Maybe boneless or Cody?

Stickman400

09-01-2013, 04:43 PM

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAA I FOUND IIIIIIITTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!! And it only took me 45 minutes or so......:( http://www.atvriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?403505-Making-Your-Own-A-Ams&highlight=custom%20arms I guess they weren't long travel, just extended, but nonetheless, there you go!

Napalm Nate

09-01-2013, 05:31 PM

I remember that quad it had a cr 500 motor in looked crazy fast just wonder if that quad is still around or junk now

CJM

09-01-2013, 06:32 PM

Yea I recall it stick.

The guy made sure to weld it up good and strong with tubing. Thats the key. you can just but them together and weld, thats weak and will fail..

Blodg

09-02-2013, 08:06 AM

For the time spent trying to make them work right by modifying them yourself the $300 or $400 for cheap a-arms would be money well spent. Even if you modify the arms to widen them yourself you will still have to buy longer tie rods. Just buy some cheap aftermarket arms.

81dasher81

09-03-2013, 05:28 AM

i made some +2's for mine.. but it takes alot more than just metal and a welder haha

2001400exrida

09-03-2013, 11:34 AM

that guy when crazy wide with his welding. THis can easily be done, i've seen it several times, if you trust your welding skills there's not "hoping it won't breaK'. a good weld can be stronger than the original. I would also say if you're going to weld them wider, you should look into putting caster/camber adjustments in as well, that way you can replace the balljoints. Jet suspension does this for a small price....makes things much easier when it comes to ball joint repalcement.

ben300

09-03-2013, 11:49 AM

as a mech engineer that works in structural design........most, if not ALL, after market a-arms are waaaaaaay cheaper than some of the medical bills that you could have if you made something and it failed

2001400exrida

09-03-2013, 11:53 AM

as a mech engineer that works in structural design. .......most, if not ALL, after market a-arms are waaaaaaay cheaper than some of the medical bills that you could have if you made something and it failed

as a mech engineer in structural design you should know nothing about medical bills and a ton about structure stregnth. If done right, an arm can be extended and made just a strong if not strong than the original. I love seeing people try new things. If you don't have the money to spend on arms and you're handy with metal working, why not extend them on your own? If it goes to hell, you're in the same boat as before....needing new a arms. Things can go wrong sure, but as long as you're not attempting to duct tape extensions on there and you have experience with a welder, this is not that far fetched. I've seen more welded extended swingers at the strip than i can count on my hands and feet. ingenuity baby, redneck ingenuity!

ben300

09-03-2013, 12:55 PM

1. if you stick a metal sleeve inside another metal sleeve and weld it, you are going to reinforce center piece, but not the the outer pieces. your gonna get flexation of the two outer pieces, ultimately cause fatigue of the not reinforced pieces, causing failure

2. depending on how much your extend your arms, you gonna create a greater moment arm or "moment of torque" about hte pivot point of the arm (eithe upper or lower. ) this is gonna cause bending through out the arm...greater bending the greater the distance away from the point of pivot. when you have a sleeve stuck into another sleve, that outer sleeve is going ot bend more than the inner sleeve because its A) longer and B) the start and end of the inner sleve is shorter than that of the outer sleeve.

The outer sleeve bending, because its not going to be fully fused to the inner sleeve, is gonna have contact stress with the inner sleeve, eventualy causing the outer sleeve to either strees, crack, or fail it fatgue from flexing against the inner sleeve.

That stress is also going to get concenterated on two locations, which are both more than likely the weld seams of the three pieces of the arm. Welds are week points and these will eventually break.

there is no way you take, for instance, a regular travel, +1 houser 400 ex houser slicast a-arm, cut 3 inches out of the center of the arm, stick a rod through and then slide a 5 inch longer sleeve on the outside, weld it back together, and actually make it stronger. it doesnt really work like that

2001400exrida

09-03-2013, 01:20 PM

you're talking about 1 method of extending metal. I would not use the method you are suggesting to extend anything.

jarfly

09-03-2013, 01:47 PM

Ain't been to a computer in a few sorry I aint replayed. But I'v been looking at the thing ever night. I think my best bet on doing this is buying tube and starting from scratch, i'v got access to a tig, bender plasma or what ever I need. And on the camber adjustment styple is that the one with like heim joints on the end for the ball joints? Thinking I could do something like that to get it diled in. And how has people done swingers? I wouldn't mind gaining a few inches bak there to. And on the welding, I can put money on if I weld it, that thing staying.

ben300

09-03-2013, 02:13 PM

you're talking about 1 method of extending metal. I would not use the method you are suggesting to extend anything.

well then, how would you extend the metal?

there is no simple way of extending hte metal, and making it "stronger" than its original design. just ain happening

your not gonna take a piece of same OD tubing and but weld it together. thats gonna break faster than taylor swifts heart when she gets dumped by her flavor of hte week.

your not gonna be able to take the tubign that the arm is made from, stick it into a dye, and simply draw it out longer.

if you look at any good after market a-arm...any a-arm for that matter...its made from one solid piece of tubing, that starts at a pivot and ends at the bracket used to mount the ball joints. sure it may be bent, but if you look at alot of the bend points of these arms (for example an ARS-fx long travel max GC, or a houser long travel max GC) the bend at these poinst is located very close, if not at the point of the bottom shock mount. sure they may be reinforced with cross members, or bracing for the shock, BUT, its one solid piece of tubing. .not two pieces. not three.....

you can even look at an arm like a walsh or six 5 design. they are very futuristic looking and are made of multiple pieces, yet the arms are still made of long continuous tubing which start at a pivot point and end at the nuckle for they ball joints.

the idea, IMO opinion, is an a-arm should be a continuous piece of tubing, whichis allowed to flex along that entire piece, allow for transfer of stress across the arm, and into the shock. when you cut the arm, and then weld it back together, your 1) creating naturaly stress/weak points in teh tube, and 2) adding a location that disrupts the flex of the arm.

CJM

09-03-2013, 02:32 PM

Oh look, now Ryan thinks he is a mechanical engineer..

81dasher81

09-03-2013, 02:49 PM

hahaha that escalated quickly.. in my opinion i would start from scratch, if you do decide to build them. when doing so i would do as stated above and give them adjustable caster and camber. tie rods aren't a big deal, i just cut the ends off my originals (needed left hand threads) and placed them in a pipe, just measure them before you cut them so you know how far to extend them. i havent had any problems with mine failing. i used 1'' DOM tubing. make sure you arent terribly shy with the gussets, but you dont need to go crazy either.

chronicsmoke

09-03-2013, 02:50 PM

lol sub'd..

I would NEVER EVER....EVER use a-arms that were extended for anything but TT or atv rodeos.. I think the medical bills outweigh the price of cheap arms.

Or build them yourself from scratch, that would be cool and not 'half as$ed' like extending stock arms..

jcs003

09-03-2013, 03:00 PM

2. depending on how much your extend your arms, you gonna create a greater moment arm or "moment of torque" about hte pivot point of the arm (eithe upper or lower.) this is gonna cause bending through out the arm...greater bending the greater the distance away from the point of pivot. when you have a sleeve stuck into another sleve, that outer sleeve is going ot bend more than the inner sleeve because its A) longer and B) the start and end of the inner sleve is shorter than that of the outer sleeve.

That stress is also going to get concenterated on two locations, which are both more than likely the weld seams of the three pieces of the arm. Welds are week points and these will eventually break.

"moment of torque" is redundant at best. a moment and torque are a similiar but arent exactly the same.

this will work fine. its a common method used to reinforce a butt-joint in a tube. its actually strengthening the arm at its weakest point. i.e. the mid-point of the moment arm.

john

ben300

09-03-2013, 03:15 PM

"moment of torque" is redundant at best. a moment and torque are a similiar but arent exactly the same.

this will work fine. its a common method used to reinforce a butt-joint in a tube. its actually strengthening the arm at its weakest point. i.e. the mid-point of the moment arm.

john

true. but its still a force, applied at a distance, about a point, with a resistance applied at another, shorter point,...the force is doing work about that point.......its gonna bend, its gonna flex. by adding two, unnecessary joints to the tube, its gonna break.

it may not now, and it may not tomorrow. ..but eventually, its gonna break at one of those joints

Baileygunns

09-03-2013, 05:07 PM

Oh look, now Ryan thinks he is a mechanical engineer..
And a Doctor, lol...

81dasher81

09-03-2013, 05:17 PM

haha actually if you reinforce it correctly, it will be stronger at the joint. technically it is more likely to break just AFTER each joint if done correctly, as placing a smaller piece of steel inside the tubing as well as using the original size tubing. but due to the fact that before and after each joint are made of the original material, it will be the same strength as original, therefore it will not fail. i still think it would be less trouble to start from scratch, and i do not realize why this is even an issue.. lol

KKiowaTJ

09-03-2013, 10:13 PM

Good welds usually don't break, The area around it does from lack or re tempering the steel you weakened while welding. With the price of raw materials, If you use the correct ones, Will be a 1/6 or better on the way to arms built correctly. Add in the rest plus a day or two of hours into it, You might save a buck or two.
To each their own and best of luck, But safety is the main key and it not just you're life in danger if you race or plan to.

81dasher81

09-04-2013, 05:35 AM

yes, thats what i was saying about the welds.. the reason i built mine is because i wanted to.. with time i had in them i didnt save a penny, but i just wanted to make my own a arms. make sure you build them right, weld them the way they should, and gusset them, and they won't fail.

2001400exrida

09-04-2013, 08:00 AM

Oh look, now Ryan thinks he is a mechanical engineer..

And a Doctor, lol...

You two need to get a room and get off me. This ain't the org, it's not "pile on Ryan" around here. I left your forum now don't come over here poking jabs. Do either of you have anything to put towards this topic or are you posting only to attempt to insult me? Grow up guys it really is getting old and i don't care if you do have 10k posts CJM, still doesn't make you the god of all gods. In fact, if a person was to read through all your posts, they might in fact turn completely retarded....

Ok sorry, OP but it gets old when these guys post nothing about the topic and then just throw insults around...back to the subject.

just like jcs300 and 81dasher81 said, you can reinforce it properly and not lose any strength. Just because you extend a tube doesn't mean it will become weaker. I agree starting from scratch will be less work, but if this guy has the ingenuity and wants to try this out, it can certainly be done without being a weak a arm. Build them right OP and i think you'll be happy, it will be a one of a kind a arm no doubt. Post some pics of the finished product for us.

CJM

09-04-2013, 09:46 AM

Ok sorry, OP but it gets old when these guys post nothing about the topic and then just throw insults around...back to the subject.

WHAT??? You left our forum??? You were banned 20x and now your back as chainsawjack on the org. This is like the pot calling the kettle black here! You may think your smart but your IP gives it away! We pile on you cause your an idiot and your advice is usually wrong. Not only that but you have ZERO qualifications other than google and wikipedia to back up your claims in this thread as well. i literally have no idea what you are talking about. chainsawjack? you need to check yourself man. I don't know what my IP says and i'm sorry you are trying to tie me to somebody i am not. It happened a couple weeks ago too you were calling somebody out over there because they must have had my IP too right? Yes baileygunns banned me from there after i had been a member for years. as soon as he became mod i got the ban stick because he didn't like me. CJM. You realize i've been riding 450's since before you were on this site. If you want qualifications come ride with me. I'll be racing at Pekin in 2 weekends...come out man the more quads the better. I'm not on the org except to lurk with my secret account......if you can find out what account that is congratulations, but so far you're 0 for 2 on trying to call me out.

I've said this before but apparently i need to reiterrate. Instead of ruining a good thread with your name calling, maybe you and bailey can just PM me so we don't have to keep doing this. You're arrogant and you need to take a step back. This is not your forum, unless 10,000 posts makes it yours.......just chill dude, get off your high horse and learn a few things. I'm posting my thoughts, why do you have to get so hot and bothered? Do you want to go on a date? I'll buy dinnner.

Are you so angry at me because you still live at home? Did you get grounded? Dude, maybe sell the quad, get your priorities in line, and then buy one. I mean it's a shame that a almost 30 year old still lives at home and goes around the forum insulting people because he's got a complex. Grow up CJM, live the dream and quit bringing people down!

i find it funny that there is drama on the org and you guys are attacking innocent accounts just because you think they're me. I mean i'm not even posting and there's drama. Where does the problem lie?

ben300

09-04-2013, 10:34 AM

http://imageshack.com/a/img32/4681/56o.gif (http://imageshack.com/i/0w56og)

chronicsmoke

09-04-2013, 10:36 AM

http://imageshack. com/a/img32/4681/56o.gif (http://imageshack.com/i/0w56og)

I for one would like to know where you get these gif images lol :D

2001400exrida

09-04-2013, 10:45 AM

i don't get it? ben are you mad at me because i told you could weld more material to a arm without sacraficing strenght? i truly apologize for giving input. Seems when guys can't agree they start making personal attacks. i feel bad for the OP that a good thread had to go off track because people got personal. sad story. Scro will clean it up and i'm sure it will happen again whenever CJM gets his panties in a bunch about something i've said. then bailey will chime in. then chronic and if we're lucky alan.

ben300

09-04-2013, 10:50 AM

that gif wasnt meant towards you ....get over yourself. chill

2001400exrida

09-04-2013, 10:52 AM

sir, yes sir!

ben300

09-04-2013, 10:52 AM

I for one would like to know where you get these gif images lol :D

and to answer your question, lol, the joerogan.net forums..... that place is awesome. you find a lot of internet gold on there

ben300

09-04-2013, 10:58 AM

sir, yes sir!

your for once werent actualy ruining the thread.....i just had to post that

2001400exrida

09-04-2013, 11:03 AM

no worries i honestly didn't know what it meant. I truly wasn't trying to ruin the thread, it's hard to keep some of these folks off my back. And I'm glad you can see what's happening.

i'm not a mechanical engineer or a doctor....but apparently if i give any type of input people make those type of comments.

what makes me curious is that marc says i was on the org as a chainsaw name or smething because the IP matches my ip. What i can't figure out though is how that is possible since baileygunns has banned my IP address. If my IP is banned, how can anybody login with my IP? just doesn't ad up. Maybe he's from my area and so they assume it is me? that would be a wrong assumption marky mark.

chronicsmoke

09-04-2013, 11:58 AM

and to answer your question, lol, the joerogan.net forums..... that place is awesome. you find a lot of internet gold on there

LOL Bookmarked :D

If my IP is banned, how can anybody login with my IP? just doesn't ad up. Maybe he's from my area and so they assume it is me? that would be a wrong assumption marky mark.

Mobile phones have mobile IP's so they can't ban your IP without banning everyone's phone withing a 250 mile radius. So they can ban a desktop IP, and you could just keep coming back (which I believe has happened ~20 times since June 2013) but you know this lol

2001400exrida

09-04-2013, 12:43 PM

actually chronic, they have banned my phone ip, i cannot access the site from my mobile phone. My only method of accessing trx450r.org since they have banned my IP is by using a proxy server. Which, as I said, is why I lurk. I truly feel sorry for the people that you cronies wrongfully accuse. It's sickening that so many of you feel all high and mighty that you will call anybody out in order to belittle them. That forum has really lost it's way. With the new mods I saw through google that the ratings dropped, their daily visits has dropped drastically. You boys keep running the show over there and it'll be nothing before we know it. there's a reason the site vendors over there are dropping like flies. way to many cronies trying to run the show and not open their minds to other points of view. a group of cronies like you guys can't just attempt to take over a forum, it won't work out in the long haul, but hey what can ya do. Problem is all the good guys are leaving so you're left with kids and cronies. too many chiefs not enough indians.....

chronicsmoke

09-04-2013, 12:49 PM

That forum has really lost it's way. With the new mods I saw through google that the ratings dropped, their daily visits has dropped drastically. You boys keep running the show over there and it'll be nothing before we know it.

On the contrary, the ORG has been a well oiled machine since the troll got the boot (21 times). You may see it as negative, but everybody (trust me on that, EVERYBODY that isn't the troll) is more than happy with the way it's run. If the troll doesn't like it.. than why does the troll lurk on a hidden account or why did the troll create a new account 20 times in 2. 5 months?

Everybody else isn't the issue, you'll be a better person when you realize this. maybe you need to see a shrink?

2001400exrida

09-04-2013, 12:53 PM

Everybody else isn't the issue, you'll be a better person when you realize this. maybe you need to see a shrink?

more personal blows, come on dave, lay off the bong brother. hey i caught your little shrink comment before you had the chance to edit budzo!

i have not been booted 21 times, you're not a mod and you're clueless, you can make up lies whatever helps you sleep at night bud. the reason i lurk is to keep in contact through PM with my friends on that forum. I talk to many guys on there, not through threads anymore but through PM. We talk about our racing and how the season is going and local races. Just because you don't see me, doesn't mean i'm not there dave. Many of these people......12 of them in fact stood up for me when you tried to start a thread to have me banned. 12 people stood up and the other 40 some were nothing but bandwagon cronies. Sad story.

see, i can talk to you without throwing out personal jabs.....

chronicsmoke

09-04-2013, 01:02 PM

see, i can talk to you without throwing out personal jabs.....

lmao, oh can you?

more personal blows, come on dave, lay off the bong brother. hey i caught your little shrink comment before you had the chance to edit budzo!

i have not been booted 21 times, you're not a mod and you're clueless, you can make up lies whatever helps you sleep at night bud.

In the same paragraph lol.. well it's obvious you take everything way too personally and you are relentless to have the last word (the reason you were booted in the first place)

So I'll let you have your precious last word after this, I promise! I don't want to be responsible for you finally going off the deepend. .

2001400exrida

09-04-2013, 01:12 PM

read this awesome thread where many people say they wanted me to stay, but of course CJM was campaigning against me. Plenty of people know me there. the funny thing is one of you guys created the trxbob account, started that thread in attempt to ban me and yet bob hasn't been banned, but i got banned? prettty stupid

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.trx450r.org%2Fforum%2F92-lounge%2F226714-thread-explain-why-you-voted-fate-rl.html&ei=5nUnUvftHOHhyQGInoHIBQ&usg=AFQjCNF8qsicXXSId0FG1w56t34O6y5b7w&sig2=7nn5tCa5AHhlhW-7FBYBTA&bvm=bv.51495398,d.aWc

then bob starts another thread like this, and yet i get banned and he stays.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.trx450r. org%2Fforum%2F92-lounge%2F215762-dislike-thread.html&ei=rXgnUqu1Ae_eyQHwt4HwDg&usg=AFQjCNG51e4_LxHxO2jfw1VIhJJaUrb0Ng&sig2=4bv63jg9GhybmaL-7RPa-A&bvm=bv.51495398,d.aWc

i was ridinlow, i got banned because the cronies were way more hardcore, even with my supporters you guys banned me

D Bergstrom

09-04-2013, 02:42 PM

Ryan,

You keep saying Bailygunns banned you from the Org, but didn't the Admin ban you? I even found the post where he said bye bye Ryan, so pretty sure that is the case. Admin over there also said there was ALOT more that went on through PM's, so I am guessing you ran your mouth to the wrong guy and he is the one that banned you, not the "chronies" as you say. Admin represents the owner, and as far as I am concerned, it is his way or the highway, you chose the highway...

as a mech engineer in structural design you should know nothing about medical bills and a ton about structure stregnth.

The above quote is exactly the reason I am glad you are not on the org anymore, you just have a certain way of saying things, almost disrespectful in a way. I was actually kind of on your side, until I had an opinion on the org in a certain thread and you had a smarta** comment to what I said. As Chronic mentioned, you just always have to have the last word, even if you are wrong. You can believe what you want, but as far as I am concerned, the org is a better place with the new mods.

Sorry to the OP for this, but just something I felt has to be said. As far as the original topic, I would not lengthen my own a-arms unless I was a VERY experienced welder, and even if I did have that much experience, I would just build completely new arms at that point. Just my opinion.

Doug

2001400exrida

09-04-2013, 03:02 PM

d bergstrom, it's fine of you to make so many assumptions but that's all they are....assumptions. Bailey and several other members campaigned, reached out to the stew lawson at vertical scope who is the admin Stew Lawson is no more than a power tripping moderator. google him if you would like to know more, he has ruined more communities than i can shake a stick at. Stew will say whatever he can to keep the community happy so just because he said there was alot more in PM doesn't mean a darn thing bergstrom. Baileygunns made it his job to troll every thread i posted in for my last 2 months on that forum. It's easy, go look at his posts from months ago and you'll see it's no secret. I call a spade a spade, i give it straight. Just because some guys can't handle me giving it straight doesn't mean anybody is better than the other person. NObody should be banned, nobody should whine and cry about it. if ya can't handle it, ignroe it. The org is hardly a better place, in case you can't see there's still drama there right now while i'm not even posting. you got mixxer and demon going at it, then you got chronic and cjm and those cronies calling members out thinking it's me. it's quite amusing. i no longer post there, yet the drama remains, not only that, these guys lie and say i've created 20 accounts. ask york if you want the truth. cjm even got so bold as to say that my IP matched some new members....i mean really, how would he know....and 2nd how could i do that if my ip was banned? would my banned ip match another ip and not be banned? doesn't make any sense. thanks for the concern doug, but let's face it.......that site is no better with the jackels running it than it was before. There's a group of about 10 of us that do nothing but group pm talking about it. i find it funny, but also sad at the same time. google the forum statistics, the viewing and site visiting has gone wayyyyyy downhill. none of the good builders post anymore because it's over run now with half mods and people who think they know everything. which is why i'm here.

has everybody forgot that after i was banned from the org there were several threads started to bring me back. of course stew lawson and ed bailey deleted those real fast. not sure if you folks saw them, but there are people there who know me in real life and don't follow the bandwagon like some of the clowns do.

ATV gun mount. Types and installation options.

Our article today will be useful primarily to hunters who travel in search of prey on an ATV, because we will talk about mounting a gun on an ATV. Of course, you can always throw a carbine into a trunk or tie it to the trunk with rubber bands, but you don’t always want to expose your favorite gun to rain and shock, and besides, an important factor in hunting is the speed with which you get the gun and be ready to shoot.

More recently, we wrote about how to make a shovel holder with your own hands, as well as about transporting a spinning rod on an ATV.

If you have made your own ATV gun mount or have ideas for making mounts, we will be very grateful if you share your findings in the “comments”.

And now we will talk about what the market offers to solve this problem. There are several options, let's discuss each separately.

Open mounts may well be suitable for fine weather. There are a lot of varieties of them, but the essence is the same - these are rubberized slingshots with a lock. The gun is removed from such a mount very quickly, this is the main plus of this mount. You can install the mount on the trunk of an ATV,

or directly on the handlebars.

Installation will take you about 15 minutes. The principle of installation and design can be seen by watching the video.

Hermetic cases with fastenings are more popular among hunters.

Let's dwell on them in more detail. This case is highly durable and is able to protect the gun from hitting branches and other obstacles, and the case also guarantees complete protection from dust and moisture. On the inside, it is sheathed with anti-shock material, which can be easily unfastened for washing.

The case has a carrying handle and belt holes. The case mount comes with everything you need to mount it on an ATV and is highly durable.

In most cases, the mount fits onto the rear rack unhindered, even with a case

, and does not interfere with the passenger's legs.

If the trunks are packed to capacity, then you should take a closer look at the mounts on the footboard.

If you intend to shoot on the move (do not forget about the legislation of the Russian Federation), then you can not put on the top cover of the case to quickly remove the gun.

The mount has axial adjustment and, if necessary, can be easily dismantled from the platform by unscrewing just two bolts, which, for convenience, should be replaced with wing bolts.

And finally, a couple of photos and a video clip about the case and its attachment to the ATV. Decide on the choice of fastening method and do not forget to comment on the articles, your feedback is very important for us and the readers of our site. Happy hunting and stay with us.

"Riding on the square ...

Floats on the wheels of the square ... "

Attention! In the "Comments" column, you can ask questions, discuss malfunctions and maintenance of your ATVs, share finds in the repair. Also, by going through a very simple registration form, you can add your own material to the existing sections of the site. Welcome to our ATV Club!

Mounting a gun on an ATV: types and installation options

03/14/2018

One of the most important details that accompanies a hunter on the hunt - this is a weapon case. There are many different cases for convenience transportation of guns: leather, textile, raincoat, plastic. Threw on shoulder and forward, comfortable. But what to do with a gun if you are not a foot hunter, but travel exclusively on a quad bike or snowmobile.

Mounting options ATV or snowmobile shotgun

There are 2 ways to attach a shotgun to an ATV or snowmobile.

- Rubber or plastic universal fasteners-holders;

- Plastic gun cases for ATV or snowmobile.

The first option is the simplest and more budgetary. To you you will need two rubber mounts in the form of a slingshot, in which there will be to fix the gun. With the help of such mounts, the gun can be placed on front or rear rack, or on the handlebars of an ATV or snowmobile. Approximate installation time - 10 minutes. The main advantage of this type of fastener is that the gun can be removed and put into action very quickly. And the downside is - use only in warm, not rainy weather.

Let's talk about the second option in more detail. Plastic case for guns on an ATV or snowmobile. The main purpose of this case is protection from the external environment: moisture, dirt, dust. After all, the constant impact of such factors on a weapon can lead to its malfunction and tragic consequences on the hunt. Case material - durable reinforced high-density polyethylene, who is not afraid of physical impacts in the form of blows with an unexpected ATV overturn. The contents of the trunk will remain safe and sound when in any case, because Such plastic is able to withstand even a collision with a car. Directly to an ATV or a snowmobile, such a wardrobe trunk is attached using special bracket. Inside these cases there is an additional textile cover, which is fixed to the plastic walls with Velcro. Textile protects the weapon from scratches and arbitrary hanging inside. And for so that the wardrobe trunk can be carried with you over your shoulder, it has special holes where you can thread the rope. Installation time a plastic trunk for an ATV or snowmobile will take no more than 20 minutes.

Which option choose

to mount the gun, of course, the most reliable method of mounting is considered to be - installation of a plastic case for a gun. It also protects against moisture and shock.

How to build a arms for atv

making your own a arms? [Archive]

diy a arms.........um i got metal and a welder just a few qustions. [Archive]

ATV gun mount. Types and installation options.

Mounting a gun on an ATV: types and installation options

Learn more