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Updated: Dec. 11, 2018
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Family Handyman
Tightening lug nuts without a torque wrench can be a recipe for disaster. If worse comes to worse and you break the wheel stud, here's how to replace it.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine
Place the remover around the head of the broken wheel stud, behind the hub. Center the driving screw over the stud and tighten it with a ratchet until the stud pops out the back.
Stop tightening when the head of the wheel stud sits flush with the back of the hub.
Install the second lug nut (the one you didn’t toss) on the new stud-it’ll go on easier. Tighten with a torque wrench.
If you’re just like everyone else, you’ve tightened the lug nuts on your car without using a torque wrench. You’re an “all the muscle you can put into it” kind of guy, and now you’re staring at a broken wheel stud. You can fix tire bolts yourself in about an hour and for less than $50. You’ll need to buy a tie rod end remover (OTC No. 7315A, at tooldiscounter.com), or rent one from an auto parts store. Then buy a new stud and two new lug nuts (yes, two of them). Next, stop at the hardware store and get a handful of washers with a hole diameter slightly larger than the threaded portion of the stud.
Above all, don’t hammer out the broken stud. That’s the worst thing you can do! The hammer blows can wreck your wheel bearings and turn this into a much bigger repair bill. Instead, squeeze the broken stud out with the remover tool (Photo 1). It’s staked into the hub, so the tough part is getting it to budge.
Once it moves, the rest is easy. Rotate the hub until you find a deep recess so you can angle the stud into the hole. Then pull it through. Next, place a bunch of washers over the stud and spin on the lug nut. Crank down on the lug nut to pull the staked portion of the new stud into the hub (Photo 2).
By this point, you’ve probably stretched the threads or damaged the bevel. So toss the nut (they’re cheap). If you can’t fit the new stud into the hub, you may have to remove the brake dust shield (drill out the rivets and replace them with stainless steel screws, nuts and thread-locking adhesive).
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
You’ll also need a torque wrench and a tie rod end remover.
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time.
Here’s a list.
Originally Published: December 11, 2018
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| Head BERGER BG-12SD30 long end 1/2'' 6-sided superlock 30mm, art. BG-12SD30 | | ||
| Deep impact socket COBALT 1/2", 19 mm, for Cr-Mo alloy wheels (1 pc.) Suspension (1/2", 19mm, for lightweight rims, Cr-Mo, suspension), art. 642-036 | 649₽ | ||
| Head NORGAU N19-10 (063702010) 6 gr. 1/2'' 10mm socket-n19-10, art. 063702010 | |
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Cash to the courier or at the point of issue of goods in St.
Petersburg
By bank card Visa/MasterCard
By bank card on the site up to 250 000a
Account for legal entities
It is enough to enter the TIN at the registration stage, it is much faster than a fax or email with details
Payment from a Yandex.Money wallet
For an identified wallet — maximum 250,000a at a time, for an anonymous wallet — 15000a
Cash through cash desks and terminals
More than 185 thousand payment points in Russia and other countries. Maximum 15,000a at a time.
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Maximum 60,000a
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Maximum per day: 10,000a via mobile bank and 100,000a through internet banking.
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Six months ago I blew a tire. And I couldn't take it off for two hours! Although, at first glance, what's tricky about it? I loosened the nuts, jacked up…
Maxim Stroker
The fact is that my discs sit very tightly on the hubs. The thinnest film of corrosion in this place - and that's it, it doesn't work! You can jerk your arms, kick the disk and tire, try to use the lever-board, but it doesn’t go. At one time, I even adapted a puller like this, for the disk holes. Natural puller, with a long lead screw, it helped. But this time he was not with him. I had to call mobile tire fitters. They looked, shook their heads, took out a sledgehammer and gradually moved the disk through the bar, fortunately for me, without crushing it. The guys turned out to be advanced, and one of them says:
- Why don't you lubricate the hub? Would you manage it yourself?
Yes, I just didn’t lubricate with grease, lithol, cyatim ... But after a couple of weeks the lubricant is completely washed out, and corrosion is taken up. The place is open.
- This, what you called, is not good here! You need a good copper grease. Let's process it, look later. Studs, by the way, too - probably, you unscrew the nuts from them with a crowbar?
They took out a can of copper grease, by the way, Astrokhimovskoye, and in a second they splashed both the belt and the threads. For myself, I left a memorable photo of the balloon.
I was wondering how the grease would show itself over time.
Half a year has passed, the wheels have been changed, and interestingly, the treated one was removed without problems, reddish traces of copper were still visible on the hub and studs. Look at the photo yourself - here they are, still in place. And the rest of the wheels, as usual, with a puller.
Historically, copper has been in the car since its invention. Engine parts, copper-alloy radiators… There was just so much more. As well as copper nuts, which did not stick to steel bolts and studs. In the car shop even today you can find such exhaust manifold nuts for the Volga and Muscovites. In Zhiguli, to reduce the cost, copper remained only as a coating on some nuts, but continued to perform its function. However, processes are getting further and further simplified, and the electroplating of nuts with copper is also a thing of the past. Are we unprotected?
Yes and no. With a little effort, you can buy and apply copper grease.
If you choose a high-quality one, then the effect will practically not yield to the option of completely replacing the nut with a copper-plated one. What is the quality of the lubricant? That the manufacturer does not imitate the reddish color with dyes, but honestly adds copper powder to it. My wheel came off with little effort at the last change because the lubrication was correct.
The lubricant must also be evenly sprayed, lay down in a thin even layer and adhere well to the surface so as not to drain from the protected assembly from aggressive operating conditions. There are enough requirements.
597429
It is desirable to use copper grease in those threaded and not only connections that operate under high temperatures and in especially difficult conditions, and steel quickly corrodes. Wheel nuts, studs and bolts have already been mentioned, as well as manifold nuts (especially exhaust), spark plug threads (for gasoline) and glow plugs (for diesel engines), injectors.
) hanger (1/2", 19mm, for light alloy rims, Cr-Mo, hanger) 
