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(1,148)Wheel bearings are parts that allow the wheels on your vehicle to spin freely and with as little friction as possible. A wheel bearing is a set of steel balls that are housed in a metal case known as a race, and it is located inside the wheel's hub.
If you hear a moaning or humming sound while you are driving, it is likely that one of your vehicle’s wheel bearings is starting to fail.
Changing your own wheel bearings is considered an intermediate job that can be done at home, but will need some speciality mechanic tools. The steps provided below are generalized to cover the three most common types of wheel bearings that are found on most vehicles. Be sure to obtain your vehicle's service manual and identify the type of wheel bearing your vehicle is equipped with before you begin the repair.
Materials Needed
Step 1: Put chocks behind your wheels.
Park the vehicle on a flat and level surface.
Use a wheel chock to block the tire opposite of the wheel that you will be working on first.
Step 2: Loosen the lug nuts. Grab your ½ inch ratchet with the correct size socket for your lug nuts.
Loosen the lug nuts on the tire you are about to remove but do not remove them completely just yet.
Step 3: Lift up the vehicle. Use the floor jack and a pair of safety jack stands to lift and secure the vehicle. This will allow you to safely remove the tire.
Step 4: Remove the lug nuts. With the vehicle lifted and secured, remove the lug nuts completely and then remove the tire and place aside.
Step 1: Remove the brake caliper and bracket. Use your ratchet and ⅜ socket set to unbolt the disc brake caliper and bracket from the spindle. Use a screwdriver to remove the caliper itself.
Step 2: Remove the outer wheel bearing. If the wheel bearings are housed inside your disc brake rotor, as often seen in trucks, you will need to pry off the central dust cap to expose the cotter pin and retaining nut.
To do this, use your pliers to remove the cotter pin and retaining nut and then slide the rotor forward to release the outer wheel bearing(smaller wheel bearing).
Step 3: Remove the rotor and inner wheel bearing.
Replace the retaining nut on the spindle and grab the rotor with both hands. Proceed to pull the rotor off the spindle, allowing the larger inner bearing to get caught on the retaining nut, and release the bearing and grease seal from the rotor.
Step 4: Rub bearing grease into the casing. Place the rotor face down on the floor with the back side facing upwards. Take the new larger bearing and rub the bearing grease into the casing.
Step 5: Install the new bearing. Place the new bearing into the back of the rotor and apply grease to the inside bearing cavity. Install a new bearing seal over the new larger bearing and slide the rotor back on to the spindle.
Pack the new smaller bearing with grease and slide it on to the spindle inside the rotor. Now install the thrust washer and retaining nut onto the spindle.
Step 6: Install a new cotter pin. Tighten the retaining nut until it is snug and turn the rotor counterclockwise at the same time.
Tighten the retaining nut a ¼ turn past snug and then install a new cotter pin.
Step 7: Unbolt and replace the hub. Some cars have permanently sealed front wheel bearings as shown in the image above. The rotor mounts on a hub that contains the pressed-in wheel bearing.
Bearing assemblies on front or rear non-driven axles are mounted between a wheel hub and a simple spindle shaft.
Step 8: Remove the spindle if needed.
If your bearing is pressed into the spindle, it is recommended that you remove the spindle from the vehicle and take both the spindle and the new wheel bearing to your local repair shop. They will have the specialty tools to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.
In most cases this service can be done inexpensively. Once the new bearing pressed in, the spindle can be installed back on to the vehicle.
Step 1: Put the brake rotor and caliper back on. Now that the new bearing is installed, the brake rotor and caliper can be placed back onto the vehicle using a ratchet and the appropriate sockets that were used to remove them.
Step 2: Install the tire. Replace the wheel and tighten the lug nuts by hand. Support the vehicle with a floor jack and remove the safety jack stands. Slowly lower the vehicle until its tires just touch the ground.
Step 3: Complete the installation.
Use a torque wrench to tighten the lugnuts to manufacturer specifications. Lower the vehicle completely and remove the floor jack.
Congratulations, you have successfully changed your vehicle’s wheel bearing. It is important to perform a test drive after changing the wheel bearings to ensure that the repair is complete.. If you encountered any problems while changing your wheel bearings, call a professional mechanic, such as one from YourMechanic, to replace them for you.
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Eliud came out almost an hour and a half before our scheduled time. Very friendly and got to work immediately and put in a new wheel bearing for me. Took the car for a spin and everything’s is working just fine. Will be calling Eliud for anymore car troubles I might have.
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I needed my wheel bearing replaced before Thanksgiving trip and Shane was able to help us out even with short notice on our end. Will use again for sure.
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Good evening everyone! The other day something knocked in the front right wheel. Jacked up, pulled the wheel - there is a slight backlash.
I didn’t understand right away, I raised the second side - the wheel does not twitch.
Tell me how to correctly diagnose the bearing, or what else could it be?
Yes, and when braking, the brake pedal beats (maybe this is related).
I have never changed a front wheel bearing in my life, and even from afar I have not watched how it is done. So if you can, as for the stupid, how to change? what special tool is needed? the book is not very clear.
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
Good evening Alexander, on my escudik I changed the bearing myself, there is nothing complicated there. a special lock nut (with many holes) can be problematic to unscrew without a special key. You can, of course, use a hammer and a chisel, but it’s a pity to shred the washer. I still have 4 small screws screwed into this nut into the lock washer sitting on the CV joint shaft. (This lock nut must be adjusted through the holes with the lock plate so that 4 holes coincide for screws. After you have removed the nut and the locking plate behind it, you can remove the hub.
It seems like something like this. I took a bearing complete with seals and retaining rings. I managed without a special tool, although in order to remove the retaining rings and the lock washer, it is better to use them and not .... me.
I diagnosed, like you, by hanging the wheel and taking it by the top and bottom and pulling it, with a live bearing, there should not be any play.
It seems like something like that.
I hope it helped with something.
Reactions: 1 person
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Due to the fact that the brake pedal is beating, it is most likely just grooves on the brake discs, if it is very annoying, you can simply pierce them, they should disappear. And usually a dead bearing starts to howl, and in some certain direction, i.e. let's say a little to the left - noise, a little to the right - silence.
Although I didn’t make any noise, but there was a backlash in the wheel, I changed it for every fireman (but then there was terribly no time, I gave it to the uncles)
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Thank you comrades for the complete and prompt answers!
I'll try to make out to see what's what. My colleague Opel Zafira, so his bearing buzzed, and in the cabin there was a feeling that you were in a jet plane, and then silence.
The brake discs are worn down to a minimum and in the grooves, I just delay the replacement.
I still don’t understand what to take the bearing itself with some kind of yellow garbage in the center
http://exist.by/images/getimg.aspx?pid=79407918&flag=4156
or repair kit
http://exist.by/images/getimg.aspx?pid=CA2059E5&flag=20602
in it some other nut (?) and the price is almost 4 times more than
and how to lubricate this whole thing? lithol, graphite, CV joint?
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
Alexander Mi wrote:
Thank you comrades for the complete and prompt answers!
I'll try to make out to see what's what. My colleague Opel Zafira, so his bearing buzzed, and in the cabin there was a feeling that you were in a jet plane, and then silence. The brake discs are worn down to a minimum and in the grooves, I just delay the replacement.
I still don’t understand what to take the bearing itself with some kind of yellow garbage in the center
http://exist.by/images/getimg.aspx?pid=79407918&flag=4156
or Repair kit
lubricate? lithol, graphite, CV joint?
Click to expand...
Alexander, that yellow stuff like a bushing is plastic so that the bearing does not fall apart, the inner race consists of 2 parts. And this plastic holds them, blame it after everything is ready for assembly and installation in its place.
I also looked at the second set, but did not take it, because. I don’t have such a nut there, but there is a kind of nut that needs to be tightened so that its holes coincide with the holes in the lock washer behind the lock nut.
I took some kind of "optimal" for myself.
It is also important to tighten everything so as not to overtighten the bearing, otherwise it will heat up. And do not hold out, otherwise the play will remain.
Try to disassemble and see what kind of system you have there, it may help to tighten the nut. I did something like that, it didn’t help much.
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
Kirill76 wrote:
Alexander, that yellow stuff like a bushing is plastic so that the bearing does not fall apart, the inner race consists of 2 parts. And this plastic holds them, blame it after everything is ready for assembly and installation in its place.
I also looked at the second set, but did not take it, because. I don’t have such a nut there, but there is a kind of nut that needs to be tightened so that its holes coincide with the holes in the lock washer behind the lock nut.
I took some kind of "optimal" for myself.
It is also important to tighten everything so as not to overtighten the bearing, otherwise it will heat up. And do not hold out, otherwise the play will remain.
Try to disassemble and see what kind of system you have there, it may help to tighten the nut. I did something like that, it didn’t help much.Click to expand...
Thank you! I bought the bearing as a set of 2 seals.
In general, I removed the hub, unscrewed the lock nut. easy, as you described, only without crowbar, cost 2 screwdrivers. It seemed to me that it should not be so, I tried to twist it harder. The backlash is not removed. Decided to change everything. Removed the support. got to the bearing. One half of it fell out almost by itself - a little poked with a screwdriver. The second one stuck in. He knocked, ran with a tambourine, then put on the wheel, pulled the wheel, a friend went into the garage - they pulled together, nothing happened. I decided to open the plate in the bearing and get the rollers one by one. Removed the stem. The remaining ring from the bearing from the axis was cut off with a grinder. I got the retaining ring and seals without any problems. I could not get the outer clip out of the hub. Tomorrow I'll go to the service station where there is a press.
Apparently they have already tried to tighten the nut before me - a very deep groove on the plate from the bearing.
Another question, that part of the drive shaft (CV joint) that sticks out of the axis goes like a g..but in the toilet, it should be like that or is it worn out?
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
My hub was removed, not to say that it was easy, but I had to knock on it a little. Maybe you didn’t remove a retaining ring? Regarding the nut, it should not spin easily, it generally needs to be tightened (if I remember correctly) more than 200 something there.
.N. And this nut is screwed with small screws to the washer.
My shaft also dangles in the same way. This is probably how it should be. When connecting the front end, it sits in the hub and does not dangle.
The bearing came out with the help of some sort of mallet and hammer.
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
So it will be clearer with the picture.
13-bearing itself
removed elements 9,10 (bolts 4pcs), 11 (the same lock washer moment according to the book -145), 12,14 (retaining ring),15,16
CImage.
ashx.jpg
97KB Views: 1,994
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Repressed the bearing to the service station. Such a large press made a "bang" and the bearing flew out.
I ordered to make a key from the varikins similar to the one in this thread
http://forums.drom.ru/suzuki-escudo/t1151305184.html
Not so pretty, but just a 20 cm long pipe with 4 studs at the end. There is a hole across the pipe for the lever.
Reactions: 1 person
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Congratulations, you see, nothing complicated, the main thing is just to see what to shoot and everything will go there.
I changed it for myself for the first time and did it without a book and advice, since I have a hundred work experience, so there were no special problems.
And he himself wanted to order the same key, but his hands do not reach.
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Kirill76 wrote:
Congratulations, you see, nothing complicated, the main thing is just to see what to shoot and everything will go there.
I changed it for myself for the first time and did it without a book and advice, since I have a hundred work experience, so there were no special problems.
And he himself wanted to order the same key, but his hands do not reach.
Click to expand...
Early, early congratulations. Haven't collected yet. While I'm at work. I'll go soon.
Please also tell me how to properly tighten the washer without a torque wrench? Tazovoda met here, he told the complex technology, and says the main thing is not to overtighten.
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
I don’t even know without a key, I myself pulled without it until all sorts of screwdrivers began to bend, then I had to tighten the washer so that the holes of the nut and the washer coincided with a blunt chisel and a hammer, but it seems to me that this is not an option and is rather weakly tightened, it will be necessary to order key and drive up to the stalls.
And as for the complex technology, I doubt something, you just need to withstand the moment.
Previously, when I worked on the basins, they generally tightened it with a key and a 2-meter lever.
And so when you assemble it, you can check it in a simple way, it is to turn the wheel, it should not turn with difficulty, and if it is tightened, then the hub and the disk will heat up.
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
I'm scratching my turnip.
I put the hub, I tighten the nut by hand - there is a small play, I tighten it with a wrench anyway. I pulled until I broke off the studs on the special key - there is still a backlash. What the hell?
Tomorrow I will ask you to make another key and stronger metal.
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
It's strange, but I still have a small backlash, but I always sinned because I tightened it without a key.
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
I asked a person how he changed it on the zafira, the hub assembly changes there, he also says they tightened it with a 2-meter key ....
A new key was made, 4 studs made of medical steel, today I'll try.
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
Everything is easier to change and cheaper with us, Alexander, but do you have the opportunity to find a dynamo metric key and tighten it?
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
There is nowhere to borrow a torque wrench, a friend has up to 90nm, and it's a long way to go after it. I wrote to you in a personal. In the telephone code, it seems that the code +37529 was mistaken, and not +375029 (I forgot.
Maybe it’s possible this way and that)
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
I also answered you.
Since there is no key, then pull with some kind of large lever, because the effort needed is not small.
I will also order such a key, some of my acquaintances have a dynamo key, I will take it from them.
When you tighten it, check the wheel to see if it spins well.
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
Nothing happened I'm crying!
Pipe wrench with 4 welded studs not suitable. Studs break at the weld. As much as possible, it turned out to adapt to the meter lever with one hand (for 55 kg of my weight, this is quite a bit). There is play, the holes on the lock washer for 4 screws did not match. Even I don’t know what to do ....... I think I’ll go to the service to the officials, but I don’t know if it’s possible to go in this state ....
Added after 9 minutes
Moreover, such a moment - the bearing is new like a ball bearing, it does not fall into 2 parts. number h28010 ....
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
You probably have a way out to go to the service, the main thing is that there is such a key.
I put a tapered bearing on myself, but I don’t know what the difference is between a ball or a cone, but as far as I know, tapered bearings can be tightened.
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara EA%EB%FE%F7
same key is used.
In general, tomorrow I will call the officials, if they do not have I will order a turner to grind.
by reference there is an option where they simply carved a blank in the form of a pipe with 4 holes, and drills are inserted into the holes and cut off under 5mm, i.e. if the studs break, they change to new ones.
I was very upset, for the first time the car repair was delayed for more than 2 days.
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
key according to these drawings
http://forums.
drom.ru/suzuki-escudo/t1151305184.html
Only removable studs and pipe without nut. The lever is 1 meter, they were clamped together, they were very afraid to overtighten it, so they pulled it a little bit, feeling the backlash, as soon as the backlash disappeared, they stopped pulling. Drank beer and sleep.
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Alexander Mi wrote:
Twisted!
key according to these drawings
http://forums.
drom.ru/suzuki-escudo/t1151305184.html
Only removable studs and pipe without nut. The lever is 1 meter, they were clamped together, they were very afraid to overtighten it, so they pulled it a little bit, feeling the backlash, as soon as the backlash disappeared, they stopped pulling. Drank beer and sleep.
Click to expand...
Alexander tested, is there a rumble, is the backlash gone?
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
Kirill76 wrote:
Alexander tested, is there a rumble, is the backlash gone?
Click to expand...
No, I didn't, I was drunk. So we just started spinning and went home, didn’t even install a hub ...... so as not to break anything with dope
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Collected, Ride. There are no backlashes, no howling, the brake pedal does not hit the leg.
Happy as an elephant!
A couple of pictures of what's inside.
DSC00462.jpg
144.3KB Views: 1,301
DSC00463.jpg
162.8KB Views: 1,216
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Well, that's great.
This means that I will also have to order such a key. But I look at the drawing and do not see some dimensions, the length of the inner hole and the length of the key itself (although this is not so important).
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
Kirill76 wrote:
Well, that's great.
This means that I will also have to order such a key. But I look at the drawing and do not see some dimensions, the length of the inner hole and the length of the key itself (although this is not so important).Click to expand...
Yes, the dimensions are not very good.
I did this, ordered a washer 42*65 (internal*external) from the turner. 2 cm long. It has holes for studs, on the other side a D50 pipe 20 cm long is welded to it, there is a hole in the pipe 10, under the collar. The studs were made from bolts (the unthreaded part). When twisting the opposite end of the pipe onto the jack, otherwise there is a large load on the fracture and the key flies out of the washer.
The length of which is not on the drawing .......already forgot about 5cm. Do 7 - you can't go wrong. Studs must be removable, otherwise bend, the key is in the trash.
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
Ok thanks.
Answer: Wheel bearing. Vitara
There is something wrong with this bearing. Raised the wheel again, tugged, again backlash in the same way. I pulled the nut about 0.5 more turns, the play decreased, but anyway, if you hug the wheel well, then you can feel a slight play. I will keep watching.
Answer: Wheel bearing.
Vitara
Alexander Mi wrote:
There is something wrong with this bearing. Raised the wheel again, tugged, again backlash in the same way. I pulled the nut about 0.5 more turns, the play decreased, but anyway, if you hug the wheel well, then you can feel a slight play. I will keep watching.
Click to expand...
Alexander, after replacing the bearing and tightening with a wrench, did the rumble disappear?
Hello everyone.
Detected the play of the rear right wheel. I ordered Optimal bearing No. 972 715. I took it to the service, because at that time there was no time to do it myself. They called in an hour, they said that the hub was killed, we can’t guarantee the backlash cure, but in any case it will be necessary to collect it, because. the car is on a lift and no one will wait for a new hub.
I ordered a new hub (original) + the same bearing. There was a time, he began to do it himself. I put everything neatly, because. not for the first time, everything fell into place, retaining ring, grease, anthers.
Further, here, perhaps, I screwed up, began to tighten the nut, forgetting about the washer. In the absence of a torque wrench, I tightened it to the user, which is also probably wrong. Put the wheel, checked, there is no backlash. I drove about 100 km., I checked, the backlash appeared again. I found the puck, put it in place, tightened it, backlash 9 again0059 I started digging in the internet, found similar situations, there is also a backlash.
Could there be some bearing adjustment, perhaps tightening torque, etc.?
Masian wrote:
Hi all.
Detected the play of the rear right wheel. I ordered Optimal bearing No. 972 715. I took it to the service, because at that time there was no time to do it myself. They called in an hour, they said that the hub was killed, we can’t guarantee the backlash cure, but in any case it will be necessary to collect it, because.the car is on a lift and no one will wait for a new hub.
I ordered a new hub (original) + the same bearing. There was a time, he began to do it himself. I put everything neatly, because. not for the first time, everything fell into place, retaining ring, grease, anthers.
Further, here, perhaps, I screwed up, began to tighten the nut, forgetting about the washer. In the absence of a torque wrench, I tightened it to the user, which is also probably wrong. Put the wheel, checked, there is no backlash. I drove about 100 km., I checked, the backlash appeared again. I found the puck, put it in place, tightened it, backlash 9 again0059 I started digging in the internet, found similar situations, there is also a backlash.Could there be some bearing adjustment, perhaps tightening torque, etc.?
Click to expand...
firstly, the bearing was optimal for full g ... but, secondly, all-wheel drive?
Reactions: 1 person
On a full drive, this happens: if the bearing is dead, then both the hub and the fist are killed.
Backlash should be within normal limits, as elsewhere.
better SNR bearing QUITE high quality I put it myself until I'm satisfied
Can anyone tell me the original part number of the rear wheel bearing.
Or sizes. I can't find it in the catalog. The front is there, but the back isn't. I already here thought that the rear goes along with the hub. Liana 2004 2WD
So it is, on front-wheel drive, the rear hub together with the bearing, that is, the hub is the outer race of the bearing
Reactions:
sav liana
Thank you
Recently replaced both bearings:
Barely unscrewed, and then not everywhere.
3300 rubles for work.
I don't want to upset you, but judging by the photo, you have a fake, "left" bearing! the first sign is that the adhesive tape stickers on the box are not with rounded edges. See here about these fakes: https://suzuki-club.ru/threads/47018/
KASiK wrote:
I don't want to upset you, but judging by the photo, you have a fake, "left" bearing! the first sign is that the adhesive tape stickers on the box are not with rounded edges.
See here about these fakes: https://suzuki-club.ru/threads/47018/
Click to expand...
Is that so?
Very similar to the original, judging by your photos.
KostyanDM wrote:
And so?
Very similar to the original, judging by your photos.
Click to expand...
On the original, the marking is abbreviated, not full, and on the outer clip, not on the inner one.
on the left is non-original, on the right is original:
On the original box, the cattle has rounded edges and the marking is written not on the box itself, but on a sticker, and there is a barcode:
Reactions: 1 person
KASiK wrote:
On the original, the marking is abbreviated, not full, and on the outer clip, not on the inner.
on the left is non-original, on the right is original:
On the original box, the cattle has rounded edges and the marking is written not on the box itself, but on a sticker, and there is a barcode:
Click to expand ...
At home I'll look at the box and at the old bearing.
Good evening Lianovody! I bought a liana station wagon in 2002, a 4x4 mechanic. The left rear wheel bearing blew. I ordered 2 bearings (I thought for two sides) via emex. ASVA DAC35620031, for some reason they came without oil seals (although a repair kit was written in the order), I ordered oil seals separately later. So they changed it to a hundred rear left, buzzed a week later, the second one changed already - again a rumble. I don’t understand why ... Either the bearings are shit ... Or I don’t know ... The old one that was removed was standing febest . On the fist and hub, there seemed to be no elaboration ... The bearing hardly sat in place both on the hub and in the fist
Rinat-ZK wrote:
changed to one hundred rear left, buzzed in a week
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it was necessary to file a claim with the service station (from you) to Emex, they could return the money for the bearing and installation work. Hike, got on a fake (marriage). IMHO. https://suzuki-club.ru/threads/47018/
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I'll raise the topic. I spend a long summer maintenance of my Liana automatic transmission 4WD. Put the front of the course, it became audible as the rear drums shuffle. The drums were terry. Changed. I could hear the rear bearings humming. Tried to loosen the hub bolts today. I managed to unscrew one nut of the rear bolt on the right, the bolt itself has grown together with the bushing of the silent block. Front tie rod bolt - one piece of rust, the head does not cling. The longitudinal bolt did not touch so as not to be left without a car for a long time. I plan to take a grinder and cut everything. I have a question - besides polyurethane, are there any other silent blocks in the rear fist? And only take the original bolts or is there any normal substitute?
there are good silents from Zekkert. breakup bolts are from Febest, but it is better to take the original bolts.
can you change the rear bearings without replacing the hub, if there is no output, of course?
Possible. No problem other than loose bolts...
rdna1973 wrote:
So on the all-wheel drive liana 2005 onwards. can you change the rear bearings without replacing the hub, if there is no output, of course?
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Possible. Just do not forget to immediately buy oil seals (2 pcs. for each hub) if they are not included with the bearing. Koyo sells without oil seals, Zekkert sells with oil seals, Febest and Musashi have oil seals separately. You have to be careful with Koyo products, there are fakes! The optimal price-quality ratio, in my opinion, is Zekkert, they even have a nut and a retaining ring in the kit.
and for the price, how will the entire repair kit cost ?? as I understand it, you sell this brand (zeker), I want it to be reliable and inexpensive
rdna1973 wrote:
and for the price, how will the entire repair kit cost?? as I understand it, you sell this brand (zeker), I want it to be reliable and inexpensive
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