As far as changing the tyres on your electric scooter goes, you’ll need a few essential tools to help make the process a bit easier.
But don’t worry; you’ll probably find that you have most of these in your toolbox already. And if you’re fortunate (depending on the scooter model), you might find that your scooter will come with some of these basic tools on arrival:
• A small screwdriver set
• A spanner set
• Wrench or Allen key set
• A rotary tool
• A picking tool (for trims)
• Tyre levers
• A pump to inflate the tyre
• An inner tube (if the tyre is pneumatic) to replace it if damaged
Removing the tyre from your electric scooter is probably the most challenging part of the entire process.
However, it has to be done, and it must be done correctly to ensure that you can get to the tyre to repair or replace it.
Getting it in the proper positionFirst things first, depending on whether you are changing the front wheel or the rear wheel of your scooter, you’ll need to position the scooter correctly on an appropriate work surface.
Lay the scooter down on one side (the brake disc side) on a smooth surface (to prevent your electric scooter from being scuffed in the process) if you change the rear tyre. This will ensure that you can work freely when dismantling the tyre from the scooter frame.
Unloosen the wheel nutsThen, using a wrench or Allen key (depending on the scooter model) works at unloosening the wheel nuts one by one. After loosening all the applicable nuts, including the brake adjuster bolt, drum brake retention pin, and the front axle nuts (if these are present), remove the axle bolt and the brake lever spring (to disconnect the front brakes).
But be sure to put all the loose ends in a safe place though to avoid misplacing them. This will undoubtedly make the job easier when reassembling the tyre to the scooter.
After dislodging the wheel and removing it from the rear wheel, it’s time to get to work on the tyre itself:
• If you are merely replacing the tyre without it being punctured, you would first need to completely release all the air within the tyre by removing the valve nut (if there is one).
Or in the case of a valve core, release the tyre pressure by applying pressure to the valve pin.
• Once the tyre has deflated enough, take the tyre levers and remove the outer tyre bit by bit. Continue to prod the tyre bead away from the rim with a tyre lever until it is completely free.
• Next, you’ll have to remove the inner tube within the tyre, which is pretty simple to do. Inner tubes that have been damaged due to punctures will need replacing.
• Then, the next step is to connect the pump to the air valve stem of the new inner tube and inflate away! Stop when the tube has enough air to fill the tube.
Fitting the tyre back onto the wheelNext, reinsert the tube back into the outer casing of the tyre. And then, you can begin fixing the tyre bead into the wheel while taking care to align the valve of the inner tube in the correct placement spot on the wheel. Once done, make sure the tyre is fitted evenly within the rim of the wheel.
Onto the next step – and we’re almost there! Just to recap, and in case you missed anything, the inner tube should be sitting snuggly within the tyre, which then should fit comfortably in the wheel.
Next, you’ll have to use the pump again to reinflate the tube even further until the tyre is nice and firm (not forgetting to check the supplier manual to confirm the tyre pressure you should be using). Also, don’t forget to put the valve cap back on, or else you’ll end up right back at square one!
Take note of the tyre’s tread pattern to the wheel, and ensure that the tread pattern is pointing in the right direction (as indicated on the side of the wheel).
Putting the wheel back onPut the drum brake back into the wheel together with the drum brake barrel.
Now take the tyre and place it back in position within the wheel lip of the scooter, taking care to put the brake cable back into position.
Place the brake spring back over the cable as well.
• Then reinsert this back into the brake barrel. Next, slide the all-important axle back into place (remember to put the washer first, though, between the work and the tyre). Refit the spring washer and brake retention bolt afterwards.
• From this point on, you need to refit all the bolts back into their places, including the necessary brake adjuster screw, to ensure your brakes don’t come undone.
Whether it be a puncture or riding so much that you wear the tyres out, there will come a time when you need to remove the tyres and inner tubes of your Mi Electric scooter. If its your first time it can be a daunting and complex procedure. In this article we’ve documented the approach we use for removing / replacing the tyres and inner tubes on the scooter.
Disclaimer : as ever anything you do to your scooter is your responsibility.
RC Geeks cannot accept liability for any damage caused to you or your scooter as a result of following our methods.
This is a difficult task and we aren’t here to sugar coat it, but here are some tips that might help (if you don’t have time to read this article):
If you really can’t manage it, consider approaching your local bike shop. An experienced bicycle mechanic should be able to help you.
Some specialist tools are required to make this job straightforward:
You potentially have some bicycle tyre levers at home. You might think they will do the job.
With enough straining and swearing you might just get away with it. Instead, pick up a set of these foot-long metal ones (designed for fitting motorcycle tyres) from eBay to make your life easier.
In our experience this is the wheel that seems to get more punctures, thankfully it is the ‘easier’ one to work with.
1. Position the scooter so you can work on it comfortably, fold it and place it upside down or on its side (disc side down) on a work-surface. Remove the valve cap and put it safely to the side. Use a tool to deflate the inner tube, squeezing the tyre to try and get as much air out as possible.
2. Take a scalpel or pick and remove the plastic trim strip (the whole piece, not just the top red sticker label) from the rear screw cover.
3. Once clear, use the 2.5mm hex driver to remove the two screws that hold the trim piece on. Pop the trim piece off and put these parts aside.
4. Take the allen/4mm hex driver and unscrew (counter-clockwise) the axle bolt. Keep this, the spring washer and flat washer safe. You should have removed all these pieces so far.
5. With the wheel still attached, squeeze the tyre and slip the tyre lever under the bead.
6. Rotate the wheel bracing the lever off of the frame of the scooter to release the bead from the wheel lip, this will take some force.
7. Once it is around a third released you can use your hands to man-handle the tyre all the way off on one side.
8. Flip the scooter over (or move to the other side) and repeat the process to remove the trim piece, the two cap-head 2.
5mm bolts and finally the other 4mm axle bolt
9. Slide the wheel straight back out of the scooter. It might need to be wiggled to clear the brake caliper. Note the flats on the axle for locating it, important to remember when refitting later.
10. With the wheel out you can pull the tyre over to one side, allowing you pop the inner-tube free and then the wheel itself. This will take some grip strength, especially if the tyre is cold. Try not to work with the disc-side-down as it is easy to bend the disc, making it rub on the pads as it rotates.
11. Finally wiggle the inner tube valve out of the wheel to free it. Your patience will be rewarded after a few minutes of fiddling. Pushing from the valve side can work if you are struggling.
12.
The inner tube valve is designed with a slight offset to match the wheel. Orientate the wheel to match this.
13. Push the valve through the rim and secure it with the valve cap to prevent it from falling out again.
14. if you are replacing the tube due to puncture, take some time to check the inside of the tyre to ensure there is nothing inside that will harm the new inner tube. Next orientate the tyre so the tread is facing the correct direction. With the brake disc ‘up’ the tyre rotates anti-clockwise as denoted by the arrows next to the sizing numbers on the sidewall seen in the photo below:
15. Squash the tyre into an oval shape and insert the wheel and tube into it.
16. Gently tuck any excess inner tube in with your hands.
Pull the lip of the tyre back from the wheel body to check the tube is clear of the lips on both sides to avoid a pinch flat. Twist the tyre until you seat the ‘rear’ bead on the disc side. A lever can help here but it is possible with your bare hands.
17. Re-insert the wheel into the frame, taking note of the keying to slide it in. Install the axle bolts top and bottom and screw them tight with just your fingers.
18. Rotate the tyre so the valve is close to the footplate. Insert the lever under the tyre lip and rotate the wheel anti- clockwise to jam the tool up against the frame.
19. Use both hands to continue rotating the wheel anti-clockwise, slipping the bead back under the lip until complete. The resistance will increase as you turn it. If you find the tyre wants to ‘pop off’ the wheel you can use cable ties run around the tyre and between the spokes to secure sectors of the tyre as you work around.
20. Replacement of the screws and trim is the reversal of removal. Tighten but do not over-torque the axle bolts, use hand tools only. Remove the valve cap and inflate to your required pressure.
The motor wheel is more difficult to work on. Unless you go to extreme lengths you will be working on it whilst tethered to the frame (via the power cable) and there are no spokes to help grip the wheel.
1. Position the scooter so you can work on it comfortably, fold it and place it upside down or on its side wire-motor-side-up on a work-surface. Using the pick remove the ‘u’ trim (not just the sticker but the whole piece).
02. Next use your wrench to remove the four 2.5mm cap head bolts and remove the plastic axle cover. Remove the valve cap and let down the tyre.
03. Use the same wrench to remove the four short 2.5mm cap head bolts that hold the plastic fork trim to the metal forks.
04. Lifting the plastic trim away from the fork, use the 18mm open end of your spanner to loosen the wheel nut. It un-does in an anti-clockwise, lefty-loosey fashion but we had to use some WD40 (and let it soak for a few minutes) to get ours to move.
05. Slip the nut through the trim and slide it up the wire out of the way.
06. Use the pick to release the cable grommet on the frame, this will allow some more slack in the wire to give you more room to work.
07. Flip the scooter over and use the pick to remove the trim. Use your driver to remove the two 2.5mm cap bolts, the plastic trim and the four 2.5mm short cap bolts underneath.
08. Lifting the fork plastic you can use the ring end of your spanner (if it has one) to remove the 18mm wheel nut. Again rotate anti-clockwise to loosen and use WD40 or a penetration fluid to help.
09. Here is a reminder of what you have taken off this side and the tools required, note the keyed washer is still on the axle in this photo.
l0. Note the tabbed wheel washer, its orientation must be noted when re-inserting.
11. With the wheel wire-side-up (to avoid stressing it) insert your levers under the top wheel lip and rotate them over to release the bead. Work one of them around the rim lip to completely release one side.
12. Using your hands (or with some help from the levers) pull the tyre off of the rear of the wheel.
13. Take time to wiggle the valve out of the front wheel. This can be harder than you think but your patience will be rewarded. If the inner-tube is already compromised it can be quicker just to cut it away around the valve stem to remove it.
14. Re-inserting the new inner-tube can be a challenge of its own and was the most frustrating part of putting this guide together. Some lubrication can assist. The tolerances of the valve ‘window’ in the wheel can be incredibly tight. Many users have opened up the plastic ‘floating’ portion of this hole using a rotary tool to make life easier but we suggest avoiding such destructive actions if you can. Once the valve is through, cap it and spread the tube around the rim.
15. Working on a tyre that is slightly above room temperature (leave it by a radiator for some time prior) will make this job easier.
Ensure you have the tyre orientated correctly when refitting. With the wheel motor-cable facing-up the tread should point ‘clockwise’ around the tyre. To get started, stand the wheel up, squeeze the tyre from the sides into an oval and press it over the top of the wheel passing the wheel through so the tyre is now hooked over the wire.
16. Use the lever to pop the rear (non-cable) side bead onto the lip. Take time to tuck the tube in, making sure it does not get pinched by the tyre bead on the rim lip.
17. A second pair of hands will help with the last part. As you lever the top side bead onto the lip you will find that the tyre tries to resist you, rotating and popping the previously seated rear off. Slip one side of the bead on and ask an assistant to hold the lever in place whilst you work around the wheel. It may take a few attempts but you will get there.
18. Replacement of the screws and trim is the reversal of removal. Tighten but do not over-torque the axle bolts, use hand tools only. Inflate the tyre and install the valve cap.
Watch where you ride! But seriously a common preventative step is to add ‘tyre slime’ tube sealant (before you have a puncture). This will fill out and reseal an inner tube should it get punctured. Beyond this, riding with the correct tyre pressures for passenger weight is important, as listed in our article here. Oh and of course don’t forget to inspect your tyres carefully for any ‘foreign bodies’ before fitting a new tube.
Yes we do. If you need any spares or accessories for your scooter check them out on our webstore. We don’t sell solid tyres as (at time of press) we don’t rate the solutions currently on the market.
Sadly we are currently unable to offer a tyre/puncture service for electric scooters. Your local bike shop may be willing to attempt the work if you show them what is involved with this article.
Interested in buying the ‘original’ electric scooter? Then we do have to ask why you are on this article! Try this one instead. Looking for some accessories for your Electric Scooter? Check our article for some suggestions.
We know this isn’t the only (or perhaps even the best) way of approaching this job. If you have any suggestions for improvements, shortcuts or tricks, let know in the comments section below.
During the operation of the scooter, tire replacement becomes commonplace. This is inevitable and you can carry out the replacement both independently and in any tire changer in your locality.
In fact, doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.
All this obliges you to take care of the purchase of new tires, dismantling the old and proper installation of a new tire in a timely manner.
Let's see how to do it right. nine0003
If the camera is not in use, skip the installation process. nine0014 It is important to remember that there are no specific tire pressure standards. It is better to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for each specific scooter model. In the cold season and in the presence of ice on the road, tire pressure should be reduced, but in no case should it be increased above the recommended values.
Among inexperienced owners, the question often arises of how to properly disassemble and then bead a tire on a scooter.
The work is simple, but it has a number of nuances. nine0003
If a number of recommendations are not followed, a perfectly suitable tire can be easily damaged. Even if the current tire is in a deplorable state, and there is no point in putting it back, it is still important to do it correctly without damaging the disc.
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Practice shows that scooter owners have to remove the tire for the following reasons:
It is easier to repair the wheel yourself when another tube is available.
It is quite difficult to seat a tubeless tire without leaving gaps - a sharp increase in pressure is required, which only a high-performance compressor can generate.
But if you still have to change the tires, you can use the "folk method". After unscrewing the nipple, pour some gasoline inside. After shaking the wheel, set fire to the steam coming out through the hole. There will be a small explosion, due to which the sidewalls settle on the rim. nine0003
Regarding safety, this procedure is not capable of breaking the tire, since it has a good margin of safety. But this should not be done in the garage, moving away from the cans of gasoline for a long distance, so as not to provoke a fire. Such manipulations are not recommended to be performed with a new instance, since unburned gasoline will remain inside. Wear from it will accelerate several times.
Rear-mounted tires are more prone to wear and punctures as they carry approximately 70 percent of the weight. The reason is simple - the driver's body is located closer to the rear than to the front.
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To remove the rubber, all the air must be released and the side cord removed from the rim. The work is difficult, because it cannot be done manually. If there is a vise in the garage, press the rubber with them.
If these are not available, it is allowed to lightly run a car wheel onto the surface. Moreover, it is better to use light vehicles - and a truck or jeep is able to bend the disk, after which you will have to purchase a new one. You need to stomp on the sidewalls, pushing them to the central part of the rim. You can use a simple shovel by inserting the point between the tire and the rim and applying pressure to move the edge of the tire. nine0003
For dismantling, it is recommended to use narrow pry bars. The use of thick, wide vehicle mounts causes additional difficulties when working on a small diameter wheel.
Alternatively, long high strength screwdrivers can be used. If it’s uncomfortable to carry mounting tools with you, any owner will always have a pair of screwdrivers.
Beading is carried out from the nipple. Starting from the opposite side, the nipple will not allow the wheel to sink inside the rim. If you see that something is preventing the sidewalls from peeling into the middle, determine the cause and get rid of it. nine0003
You should not rely on your own strength, because you can easily break the tire cord. And if you have a lot of strength, the rim itself will break. To disassemble the tire using narrow screwdrivers or pliers, the worn part should be held in a special depression on the rim.
Before dismantling the rear wheel on a scooter, always remember the distance between the screwdrivers - it should be a maximum of two to three centimeters.
It is recommended to disassemble the wheel so that the rim is on the ground with the side in the working position near the muffler. This should be done because, with careless dismantling, scratches will not be very conspicuous, because. silencer covers them.
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When replacing an old tire that will not need to be reassembled, lubricate the bead with soapy water or oil. This will greatly simplify and speed up the replacement process. Oil can corrode the tire, so treat the surface with a degreaser before starting installation. Tire installation is carried out exclusively with the use of a soap solution.
A number of professionals recommend that you use plastic tie-downs to disassemble the wheels. How to do this, you can see in the photo below:
Slide the tire as far as you can onto the rim. Only then grab the screwdrivers or pryamki. Manufacturers recommend inflating the tire from the rear up to 2.5 kg/cm2. In the presence of "tubeless" pressure increases to 3.5. Excessive pressure is required only at the initial stage, so that the sidewalls are firmly seated in the rim.
