How to fix a drill

Attention! It is strictly forbidden to pull the cord when the drill is plugged in, in order to avoid a short circuit, you will have to rewind the motor winding.

After checking, you can bend it as you like to find the break , then part of the cable is cut off, the wires are stripped and new contacts are created for connection. When a break occurs in the middle of the cable, it must be completely replaced with a new one. True, economical users prefer to connect broken wires by soldering, followed by reliable insulation of the repair site, but there is no longer full confidence in such a wire.

Power button

Important! Never try to lubricate the sliding surfaces of the button - the dust mixes with the grease and wear occurs, as a result, the entire block must be replaced.

To repair the drill button, you need to remove the side wall, check the integrity of the contacts. When soot has formed, clean the contact with fine sandpaper. In case of burnt contact, we change the entire unit.

Rotor brushes

Not all users know that mains power is transmitted to the rotor by means of brushes made of graphite - during normal operation, constant sparking occurs between them and the rotor. There are times when a wad of dust has accumulated between the armature and the brush, and since the dust is a dielectric, the drill will not work until we remove the dust and restore contact.

During operation, the brushes gradually become smaller, because their lower part is erased. Periodically, they need to be inspected and changed - this is not difficult to do, you just need to have a new set in stock.

When you notice a strong spark in the area of ​​the brushes, and changed them recently, this may be due to malfunctions in the rotor or its collector.

Checking the rotor

Carefully remove the rotor from the stator for a thorough check. Contacts can be charred or have scale - you need to clean them with sandpaper strictly in the direction of rotation. Reason the appearance of scale may be prolonged operation at maximum speed. How to check the rotor for serviceability? Ring the adjacent lamellas with a multimeter - their resistance should be identical.

Do not forget to check the winding - whether there was a short circuit with the magnetic circuit housing. If a breakdown is detected, the faulty winding is rewound independently or taken to a service center.

Drill stator

Visual inspection must be done periodically: if overheated, when the product worked with maximum loads, the protective varnish could melt and interturn short circuit . The winding in this case will burn out, and the electric motor is unsuitable for further operation. The check is done in the same way as in the case of the rotor - we check the windings with a multimeter. If a breakdown is detected, the stator winding must be rewound.

Leading manufacturers of impact drills pay special attention to the protection of winding wires, because their products operate in a special mode.

Mechanical damage

Why is the device still not working, if you checked everything and ruled out breakdowns in the electrical circuit of the drill? There can be only one answer - the non-working state of the product arose due to the presence of mechanical malfunctions.

1. Bearings not working . Dust gets into the lubricant due to the breakthrough of the stuffing box, so they wear out quickly and can jam at some point. It is easy to eliminate: we wash the bearing in kerosene, change the seals, fill in new grease, better than a special composition for products with high rotational speeds.
2. Reducer is broken - a very serious failure, spare gears are needed, or the entire module will have to be replaced. You need to install only the same model. If the drill is a common modification, then it is not a problem to buy spare parts for it in stores.
3. Another of the most difficult malfunctions experts consider is the breakdown of parts of the cartridge .

During operation, drilling waste often gets into the inside of the chuck, it mixes with the lubricant, which jams the inner jaws. The cartridge must be disassembled, all parts are washed and lubricated before assembly. If extreme wear is detected, then the part must be replaced; if the base or sleeve is heavily worn, the entire unit should be replaced.

We have tried to tell you about all the failures encountered during the operation of electric drills. Remember that self-repair is always much cheaper than buying a new product.

We repair the drill ourselves the main types of breakdowns and their elimination - My tools

Table of Contents

• 1 Electric Drill - Recall Tool Construction
• 2 What You Need to Diagnose a Broken Electric Drill
• 3 Where to look for a breakdown in the electrical part the most common malfunctions and their elimination
• 4 The drill does not turn on what to do
• 5 How to perform a simple repair of a drill button with a speed control
• 6 Drill button why a capacitor is needed and how to check its serviceability
• 7 How the button of the drill is connected
• 8 How to detect a malfunction of the brush assembly
• 9 If the electric motor is faulty when it should be changed
• 10 Breakdown of the mechanical part of the tool
• 11 Learning how to extend the life of your power tool from the moment you buy it

One of the main tools used in construction and repair is an electric drill. Even children know what it is, but few of the owners of this tool know how to repair it. Breakdowns happen with all tools, and if a drill breaks, then you can repair it yourself with your own hands. A step-by-step description of not only repair, but also diagnostics of the drill is described in the material.

Electric drill - remember the design of the tool

An electric drill is a type of tool that is designed for drilling different types of materials, including concrete and reinforced concrete. Only for this you need to use a tool with a hammer drill function or a hammer drill. How the tool works, you can find out if you disassemble it. Briefly about the design of the electric drill of Soviet and foreign production, is described below.

It should be noted that the design of modern drills of domestic and foreign production differs from the design of Soviet tools. These are only minor differences, which consist in the absence of a reverse on an electric drill, as well as impact drilling. So, structurally, an electric drill consists of two main parts - electrical and mechanical. The basis of the mechanical part includes the following structural elements:

1. Reducer - a set of gears, due to which there is a decrease in speed and an increase in torque from the motor shaft
2. Cartridge - the executive body, which is designed to secure the working nozzles
3. Bearings - supporting mechanisms of shafts and axles, ensuring their rotation
4. Impact mechanism - in electric impact drills, this device is part of the gearbox

The electrical component of any corded electric drill consists of the following elements:

• Collector-type motor, consisting of a stator (fixed part), rotor or armature (moving part) and a collector (copper plates or lamellas through which current is supplied to the armature winding)
• Graphite or carbon brushes - a transmission device through which the current is transmitted to the rotor winding. The brushes are a consumable item and when they sparkle it means they are worn out
• Start button - depending on the model of the electric drill, the switches are conventional and with a built-in speed controller
• Reverse button - there are no such devices on Soviet drills. This is a polarity reversal mechanism that reverses the direction of rotation of the tool chuck. Installed separately or built into the start button
• Ferrite ring is an element (filter) through which noise is smoothed in the network
• Capacitor - a filter element that prevents interference from entering the network
• Mains lead - link between electrical outlet and tool

The photo above shows the design of the drill with the main components. Sooner or later, it becomes necessary to repair the drill due to the failure of its individual components and mechanisms. To do this, it is required to initially inspect the instrument, identify the cause of the malfunction, and eliminate it. In more detail about what types of breakdowns of drills are, how to identify and eliminate them, is described in the material.

This is interesting! The old Soviet drills do not have a reverse mechanism and an electronic speed control. Instead of an electronic regulator, a mechanical one is used, consisting of gears of different diameters and the number of teeth. This method of regulation is more reliable, since lowering the speed does not affect the power. However, this method of adjusting the speed is expensive, since it requires the additional use of a pair of gears. If one pair of gears is worn out, you can continue to use the tool. Below are photos showing the design of the mechanical speed controller of an old Soviet drill.

What you need to troubleshoot an electric drill

Where should I start troubleshooting an electric drill? Of course, from the first signs, by which it becomes clear where the breakdown is hiding, and which part needs to be repaired. It is easy to identify the mechanical malfunctions of the drill, but with the electrical part everything is much more difficult. Here you will need the appropriate tools, by which you can draw conclusions about the malfunction of certain components, parts and mechanisms of the tool. To identify breakdowns in the electrical part of the electric drill, you will need to prepare the following tools:

• Voltmeter or multimeter. Preference should be given to the second option, as it is more efficient and multifunctional
• Armature short circuit tester

To diagnose the mechanical part, you will need to perform the following manipulations:

1. See what specific function the drill does not perform
2. Inspect the integrity of the gearbox by first disassembling the tool body
3. Inspect the condition of the bearings, as these devices often fail in the absence of lubricant
4. Detect the function of the mode switch. If the device jams or fails, the tool will only work in one mode

In a drill, like any other type of power tool, various parts and mechanisms fail. The whole drill cannot break completely, but in any case, even when the mode switch is faulty, the operator will not be able to use the tool to its full capacity. That is why it is necessary to learn how to repair a drill with your own hands. This is not at all difficult to do, even if you have no experience. Therefore, you should not buy a new tool at the first malfunction, since the malfunction is sometimes easy to fix even without the need to replace parts. What types of breakdowns occur, how to fix them and what needs to be done for this, is described in detail in the publication.

Where to look for a breakdown in the electrical part of the most common faults and their elimination

Electrical faults are the most difficult not only to identify, but also to eliminate. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to see the principle of the flow of electric current, but you can understand how the drill works. Based on the principle of operation of the electrical part, it is possible to draw appropriate conclusions about possible malfunctions. The working principle of the electric part of the drill is as follows:

• When the plug is connected to the socket, voltage is supplied to the electric motor
• The presence of a button in the design excludes automatic start when the plug is connected to the socket
• The start button must be pressed to start the tool
• This closes the contact and energizes the stator and rotor windings. The wires are connected directly to the stator, and to the rotor through brushes and a collector assembly
• If we describe the principle of operation of the AC collector motor, then it lies in the fact that the stator winding acts as a permanent electromagnet, due to which the armature is repulsed. Just like that, the armature will not rotate, so it is also necessary to apply a current with a bias of 9 to its winding0008

The rotor starts to rotate at a certain speed. This speed depends on the magnitude of the voltage. To reduce the speed, regulators are used that work on the principle of increasing resistance. The greater the resistance, the lower the voltage value, and, accordingly, the lower the rotation speed. Knowing the principle of operation of the electric part of the drill, we will consider the main types of breakdowns and their elimination.

The drill does not turn on what to do

When connected to the network, there are no signs of instrument life. Masters with experience had to deal with such a phenomenon more than once, but what if such a phenomenon happens for the first time? Disassemble, diagnose and repair the drill. Troubleshooting, when the drill does not turn on, begins with detecting the presence of voltage in the network. Trite, but true - often the reason for the inoperability of the tool is the lack of voltage in the network. The reasons for this may be scheduled repairs at the transformer substation, the operation of circuit breakers or damage to the power cord of the outlet. Take a multimeter and measure the voltage in the network.

If the outlet is OK, then the next suspect is the network cable. Yes, it is also not eternal, and can be damaged during the operation of the tool. Do not try to find a breakdown visually, as this is a waste of time. Take the tester, and turning on the dialing mode, check the integrity of both cores. To do this, you need to disassemble the case, and alternately touch one probe to the contact on the plug, and the second to the wire connected to the button. The conductors are serviceable when the device "beeps".

How to make a simple repair of the button of a drill with speed control

If the preliminary check showed that the mains wire is OK, then it is necessary to continue troubleshooting along the current flow circuit. The next item in the troubleshooting queue is the button. On Soviet drills, such buttons are a simple mechanism by which contacts are closed. On modern tools, a round regulator is placed in the design of the trigger in the form of a washer with resistors, with the help of which the speed of rotation of the cartridge is regulated.

If the drill button does not have a regulator, then troubleshooting and troubleshooting is quite simple. To do this, you should disassemble it, inspect the integrity of the contacts and clean it with fine-grained paper sandpaper.

If an additional reverse switch is connected to the button, then it must also be checked by ringing. If it is determined that the failure is related to a button malfunction, then it is easier to replace it than to look for a malfunction and try to fix it.

Drill button why a capacitor is needed and how to check its serviceability

If you disassemble the button, you can find that in addition to this part a capacitor is connected (yellow or black block). Can this unit cause a malfunction or inoperability of the power tool? No, the capacitor is used to smooth out noise that occurs in the network. It serves as a filter element. If you disconnect it, then the drill and other types of power tools will work as before. However, it is not recommended to operate the tool without a capacitor, since its absence (or malfunction) leads to the failure of semiconductor elements.

This is interesting! There are two ways to check the health of the drill capacitor - with a multimeter and visually. If the capacitor on the drill button is inflated, then it should be replaced with a capacitance similar in terms of parameters.

There is an opinion that the capacitor is designed to create a phase-shifting effect. This is an erroneous opinion, since this element does not affect the operation of the tool in any way, but only excludes the ingress of radio interference back into the network.

How to connect the drill button

Experience shows that in 60% of cases, a drill malfunction is associated with a malfunction of the shutdown button. Often an attempt to replace this element leads to the fact that all the wires get tangled, and the question arises - what to connect to in order to connect everything correctly. This is exactly what it is worth understanding so that the wires connected at random do not lead to a short circuit.

It should be noted right away that the buttons on drills can have a different design, however, there are three types of their devices:

• Conventional without regulator - when the trigger is pulled, the electric motor starts at full power. Typically, these buttons were used on old Soviet drills
• Variable Speed ​​Button - The trigger has a washer that can be moved to increase or decrease resistance. The greater the resistance, the lower the rotation speed of the cartridge
• Buttons with speed control and reverse - in addition, the device is equipped with a plate with a lever for switching the direction of rotation of the cartridge. The reverse is implemented by changing the polarity of the voltage supply to the rotor and stator windings

One of the most difficult connection schemes is the last option. However, if you look, then there is nothing difficult in connecting all types of buttons. The following diagrams for connecting the buttons of different drills will help to understand this - Bosch, Interskol and others.

This scheme is also found in another design, as shown in the photo below.

The difference between these circuits is the connection of wires from the reverse to the rotor and stator. Both options are correct and will work. It all depends on the instrument model. Observing the sequence of connecting the buttons of the drill, it will not be difficult to restore the tool to work. Below is a diagram in the form of an illustration of connecting a drill button to an AC commutator motor.

It is worth noting that the drill button fails not only due to the burnout of the contacts, but also due to the wear of the expanding spring. With a large output, the spring breaks, which ultimately leads to jamming of the device.

How to troubleshoot the brush assembly

Brushes fail on the drill, which are consumable items. The brushes are made of graphite, and with their help, the current is transmitted to the rotor through the collector assembly. During operation, the brushes wear out, burn out, wear out and require replacement. The resource of brushes depends on various factors:

• Quality
• health collector
• Power tool load

You can identify a malfunction of the brushes by such a sign as excessive sparking. If before the drill stopped starting, its excessive sparking was observed with signs of soot, then with a high degree of probability it is necessary to replace the carbon brushes. To replace, it is necessary to remove the elements from the brush holders, pull out the worn parts and install new ones in their place.

This is interesting! If the brushes are worn more than 60% of their original length, they must be replaced.

In addition to a malfunction of the brushes, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the copper lamellas of the collector. If signs of soot are observed on the copper base, as well as chips and other defects, then all this should be eliminated. If you can’t fix it yourself, then you should replace the anchor. The causes of carbon deposits on copper plates are excessive sparking from a power tool. In addition, with severe wear of the collector, there is a connection (short circuit) of the plates to each other, which is also unacceptable.

If the electric motor is faulty when it should be changed

The commutator-type electric motor on the drill and any other tool is the heart of the equipment, which costs 60% of the total amount of the device. If the malfunction is related to the electric motor, then there are two ways to restore the malfunction of the drill - replace the entire engine or perform diagnostics, identify the malfunction and fix it. It should be noted right away that diagnostics can be done independently, but it will not work to fix the malfunctions with your own hands. Here you will need to give the faulty assembly to a specialized workshop, but practice shows that it is easier to buy a new rotor or stator than to repair them.

This is interesting! It is also rational to take the engine in for repairs when it is impossible to find spare parts for it.

Consider the principle of checking the health of the stator and rotor of a do-it-yourself drill motor:

1. Multimeter in resistance measurement mode measures the value between the armature windings and the metal core. The presence of resistance indicates a violation of the integrity of the insulation
2. With a marker we designate the plate from which the test begins. With the probes of the tool, touch the plates one by one, and record the resistance value. In this case, the value between the plates should be approximately the same. A resistance difference of more than 10% is unacceptable, and indicates the presence of a break
3. Turn-to-turn short circuit test. A special device can measure the presence of an interturn short circuit. It does not make sense to buy such a device on purpose, since if there is no breakdown of the insulation on the case or a short circuit between the plates, then with a high degree of probability it can be assumed that the armature is working
4. After this, the health of the rotor should be checked. Similarly, the absence of resistance between the winding and the core is checked
5. Check resistance between windings. The absence of resistance indicates complete damage to the winding, and with a large value, breakdown can be assumed. Below in the video description it is described in detail how a step-by-step check of the health of the collector motor 9 is carried out0008

Stator failures are less common than rotor failures, but in any case, if the drill has recently worked in high load mode, then the engine fails in it. If it is determined that the motor on the drill is faulty, then it is easier to replace it than to repair it, and sometimes it is better to buy a new drill. The video below describes in detail how to find and fix electrical problems with a drill.

Breakdown of the mechanical part of the tool

While electrical faults are difficult to detect, mechanical faults are much easier to deal with and cheaper. It is possible to identify mechanical defects even without the need to disassemble the instrument. If the drill cracks or the cartridge does not rotate, but the characteristic sound of the engine is heard, then there is a breakdown in the gearbox. When the nozzle does not hold in the drill, then there is a malfunction in the clamping cams. Bearings that cannot be repaired and require a comprehensive replacement can also fail.

Consider each type of malfunction, and the features of their identification with subsequent elimination.

1. Bearings failed. Bearings typically last a long time and the main reason for their rapid failure is lack of lubrication or running out of lubrication. There are two types of failures in bearings - the complete destruction of the balls or wear. In case of complete destruction, the part must be replaced. When replacing bearings, there are no difficulties, so be sure to check their serviceability
2. Jamming of the gear unit - here the breakdowns are associated with the licking of the driven or driving gear. Even in the process of work, a tooth can be chipped off, which ultimately will lead not only to a decrease in productivity, but also to the occurrence of a complete jamming of the transmission mechanism. If the gearbox fails, it is necessary to replace the gears. It should be borne in mind that on household tools, the gearbox can be represented by plastic gears. They must be replaced with similar ones, otherwise the installation of metal gears will lead to accelerated engine wear
3. Repair of the impact mechanism of the drill - unlike the hammer drill, this mechanism on the drill has a primitive design. Consists of a two-piece construction resembling a friction clutch. Shocks are created by moving a gear with notches. Notches on a rotating gear engage with teeth of a similar design on the body, and as if jumping, clicks are created - they are also blows. Malfunctions of the impact mechanism of the drill are as follows - licking of the notches, which ultimately leads to a decrease in productivity. More often, the notches are licked off on the movable gear, which must be replaced. Another breakdown can be when the shock mode of the limiter is not turned off. The reason is the wear of the metal ball, which, when the switch is moved, goes into the end of the shaft, thereby limiting the possibility of contact between the notches of the gear and the protrusions on the housing. To eliminate the malfunction, replace the ball in the design of the impact mechanism
4. Malfunction of the actuator - cartridge. Drills use key chucks for increased reliability and efficiency. The clamping jaw on this part may fail and should be replaced. Detailed instructions on how to remove, repair and replace the drill chuck

Bearings and chuck are minor mechanical failures and failure should be handled accordingly. Even if the diagnostics showed that the gearbox does not need repair and replacement of parts, then it must be dismantled, washed in gasoline and new grease added. Such manipulations must be performed regularly, depending on the frequency of use of the power tool. A detailed description of how to repair the impact mechanism of the drill is described in the video report.

Learn how to extend the life of your power tool from the moment you buy it

In order for the purchased power tool to serve for a long time and not let you down at the most inopportune moment, it is necessary to ensure proper care for it from the very first day of purchase. This care includes doing the following:

• Only store the tool in a dry and warm room. Exposure to moisture and low temperatures will cause condensation and damage to the electrical parts of the tool
• Do not work with the tool for a long time under heavy loads, as this will lead to overheating of the windings and failure of the electric motor
• The presence of an impact mode does not mean at all that a drill can drill holes in concrete and reinforced concrete daily. The impact drilling function is an auxiliary one, and it is intended for infrequent use. For such purposes, it is necessary to use a rotary hammer
• In case of strong sparking of the brushes, it is necessary to replace them without waiting until the tool stops turning on at all

Keep in mind when buying that drills are for domestic and professional use. If you choose a cheap household option, then you need to understand that such a tool is intended only for infrequent home use.

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