How to fix tubeless tire leak


How to Get Leaky Tubeless Bike Tires to Seal Again

Tubeless tires are much, much better than the alternative, but that’s not to say they’re perfect. Sometimes, just getting a tubeless tire to hold air can be a challenge, and diagnosing the problem — let alone fixing it — can be frustrating. If you find yourself staring at a flat tire in the garage and muttering “why” over and over again, here are some tips for getting rolling again.

This article won’t cover mounting tubeless tires; we’ll assume the tire has been mounted successfully, but that it won’t hold air for more than a day or so.

Break out the bubbly

Those big air bubbles near the center of the photo indicate an active leak.

No, we’re not celebrating yet, but this will get us closer to our goal by allowing us to zero in on the part that’s leaking.

Fill a spray bottle with water and some dish soap, or really any soap that forms bubbles. Next, inflate the tire to 30psi or so. Spray or just pour the soapy water all around the tire and rim, one section at a time. Note any places where air bubbles appear.

On the tire

If there is a puncture in the tire itself that is leaking, this is generally an easy fix. Make sure you have plenty of sealant in the tire and move it around until the sealant pools at the puncture. Larger punctures may benefit from a tire plug.

With a sidewall leak, you’re usually better off replacing the tire. It might be possible to patch it, or if you’re really lucky, plug it, but in my experience sidewall repairs rarely last very long.

While rare, some tires have been known to absorb or even weep sealant. Tiny pores in the tire compound fill with sealant when it’s initially added, so you may need to add a bit more liquid to replace what’s been lost. If a tire still leaks through the tread or sidewall in multiple locations despite having good sealant coverage and no punctures, you may want to check with your local bike shop or tire manufacturer to see if the tire should be replaced.

Between the sidewall and the rim

Check to make sure the rim wall isn’t dented. If it is, your tire won’t be able to seal. If you find your rim is slightly bent or dented, it might be possible to get things straightened out enough to hold air. According to Gerow, “a couple of small planks of wood, a vice, and a hammer will get you started.”

Even if the rim wall isn’t visibly dented or misshapen, there could be a small gap between the tire bead and the rim that’s leaking air. Make sure you have plenty of sealant in the tire, and hold it horizontally and tilted to allow the liquid to pool around the part of the rim where you saw the bubbles forming. Shake the wheel gently for a minute or so to let the sealant do its work.

In some cases, the tire-rim connection may not be tight due to buildup of old sealant. “Older tires can have a buildup of dry and hardened sealant at their bead that will create space between the rim and the rubber, causing air leaks,” says Gerow. “When mounting a tire that has already been mounted previously, be sure to remove as much dried sealant from the bead as possible.

Sometimes a tire bead may not be fully seated in the rim. Try pumping the tire up to maximum pressure. The loud popping sound you’ll hear is the bead popping into place. If you didn’t hear that noise the first time you mounted the tire, chances are that is the issue.

After running through the checks above, try soaping the tire again and checking the same spot to see if the fix was a success.

Around the valve

In my experience a leaky valve is often the cause of air pressure losses over time. If the soapy water reveals bubbles at the valve, it’s time to investigate further.

Tubeless valve parts with a valve core remover tool (red, right).

First, check the easy stuff: Is the core screwed in tightly? Is the inlet screw loose or bent? A dedicated valve core tool is helpful for proper tightening, and if your fingers aren’t getting the inlet plunger tight enough, needle nose pliers can do the job. Just make sure you don’t over tighten and break the valve, or get it so tight you can’t add air later. If any part of the valve is bent or broken, don’t try to fix it; it’s time to replace it.

If soapy bubbles are forming around the base of the valve, it may not be attached to the rim properly. Most valves have a nut at the base that tightens the valve to the rim. Get this as tight as possible with your fingers, and if necessary give it a slight turn with a wrench. Just be sure to avoid tightening too much because you could damage your rim, especially if it’s carbon fiber, and you may need to be able to remove the nut on the trail in the case of a puncture.

Check the gasket at the base of the valve to ensure that it’s properly seated, and that it sits flush in the rim channel. Add a bit of plumber’s/PTFE tape to seal things if the gasket is particularly troublesome.

Next, investigate the valve from the other end, which means taking the tire off the rim. Most valves have a soft rubber gasket that forms a seal around the valve hole in the rim, so check to make sure the valve is seated properly in the rim channel. You can also add a bit of teflon tape around the base of the valve to seal things up.

Sometimes sealant can fill in small gaps around the valve. If you notice air leaking while on the trail, try rotating and shaking the tire so the liquid sealant can get to the valve.

At the spokes

If bubbles form around the spoke nipples, the good news is you’ve found your leak! The bad news is, there isn’t a quick fix. This generally means the rim needs to be re-taped, or at the very least the tape needs to be patched over. If the tape appears wrinkled, ripped, or punctured that’s probably what’s causing the leak. Tire levers can often puncture the tape while installing the bead, causing the tape to leak air through the rim.

There are many tutorials online for taping a tubeless rim, but in general, the idea is to get the rim as clean and as dry as possible before taping all the way around in one go. Be mindful of any gaps where air might be able to leak, keeping the tape flat and taut to avoid blisters or pockets.

No bubbles. Now what?

Sometimes, tires can be sneaky leakers. Pump them up and they’ll stay rock solid in the garage for weeks, but as soon as you roll in the parking lot, or take a turn, they go soft. You soap ’em up, and there’s not a bubble in sight. In fact, this has happened to me a couple times in just the past few months.

This is usually due to a small cut that only opens up when there’s weight on the tire, or if the tire is pumped up to a higher pressure. In your garage, you can try to simulate the effect of riding by adding pressure above what you normally ride, or by deforming the tire with your hands and looking for air bubbles as the tire squirms.

Gerow notes, “Some tires need to be ridden immediately after setup in order to hold air properly. A new tire that won’t hold air in the garage might be good to go after a short romp on the trail.”

Once you find the sneaky leak, getting sealant to the right spot can do the trick, though a plug may work even better.

Be the air

Ultimately, tubeless mountain bike tire systems are pretty straightforward and there are only so many spots where air can escape. Imagine that you’re the air inside the tire, and you’re looking for a way out. How would you do it? That’s exactly the mindset you need to solve this mystery.

Tubeless Tire Repair

Tubeless Repair in Standard Tires with Sealant
Your tire sealant may patch small punctures permanently. However, larger punctures and small cuts may leak sealant periodically as you ride. And some leaks are just too big to seal. For these leaks, you need to patch the tire. If you're running a "dry" true tubeless system, go to our "dry fix" page.

The leak is usually easy to spot. Sealant collects on the outside, and may build up into a grass-and-sand-covered chunk. But once the tire is cleaned and off the rim, you may not be able to find your leaky spot again.

So... Mark the leak site before dismounting the tire.

Before bleeding the air from the tire, let it sit a minute with the valve-side of the wheel down, valve aiming straight up. This drains any sealant that may have collected in the valve stem.

Now rotate the wheel so the valve is at the top, aiming down. (This keeps the sealant from squishing out through the valve as the tire mashes flat on the ground.) Bleed the air from the tire.

Now break the tire away from the rim by pulling it sharply to one side. Work around the rim, breaking the seal on both sides.
Next squeeze the bead of the tire in to the center of the rim, all the way around the wheel. This puts both sides of the tire's bead in the lowest spot of the rim, so it can stretch over the rim more easily.
Lever the tire off the rim, on one side only, right where the puncture is located. Don't "dig in" so deep that you catch the tire liner (if you're using a tubeless conversion system such as no-tubes). Plastic tire levers are less likely to damage the rubber coating on the tire's bead. (If your tire lever cuts into the rubber on the bead, it may not re-seal properly.) Pull about 1/4 of the tire's circumference off the rim.
Now rotate the wheel, so the open area is at the bottom. The sealant will puddle in the tire at this spot.

Pour the sealant out into a container.

On the inside of the tire, clean the spot of the puncture with a paper towel. Get it as dry as you can. If the rubber seems to be "rubbing away" to expose the cords, stop wiping! Blot the sealant by touching gently, then proceed to drying.
Finish drying the puncture-area with a blow-dryer, or -- on the trail -- by exposing to sunlight. If you won't be riding for a couple of days, let the tire dry as long as possible before patching. If you put the patch on while the tire is still wet, it may come loose.
   Do NOT sand the inside of the tire. The rubber is too thin.

Apply a thin layer of patch glue around the puncture site.

Wait until the glue is dry. (It will still be a bit "tacky," but won't pull away from the tire or spread when touched.)

Press the patch or tire boot firmly over the puncture. Consider inflating the tire with a tube in it and riding non-tubeless for a couple of days while the bond matures.

Wipe the exposed tire bead (the part that will contact the rim) clean of dirt and sand.

Dump your sealant back into the tire.

Dip into the sealant with your finger, and apply a coating of sealant to the exposed bead of the tire.

Rotate the tire so the separated area (and the puncture) are at the top. With both hands working towards the center, press the tire bead back over the rim.
Next work around the tire, forcing the bead out against the side of the rim. Using both hands, push your thumbs down in the center of the tire, while your fingers drag the sidewall of the tire outward. When it looks like the bead is sitting against the sidewall all the way around, you're ready to inflate.
Use a CO2 power inflator for on-trail repairs. A mini-pump doesn't provide enough air pressure to seal the tire during initial inflation.

If the tire won't inflate because the valve is plugged with sealant, see our "valve cleanout" page.

Before putting the tire back on the bike, work the sealant around the tire's bead. Holding the wheel horizontally, tip it slightly down, then slightly up. Rotate the wheel about six inches, and repeat. Continue until you've worked all the way around the wheel a couple of times.
Turn the wheel over, and repeat the tip-down, tip-up process all the way around the wheel. This gets sealant on the opposite bead of the tire.

You're now ready to put the wheel back on the bike and ride.

Having problems with your tubeless system?  See our Tubeless Hints page.

 [Fix-it Index Page]

How to fix a puncture in a tubeless tire with your own hands

Contents

  1. A harness or patch for a tire, which is better
  2. How to fix a puncture in a tubeless tire with sealant
  3. How to fix a puncture in a tubeless tire yourself with a harness
  4. 5

Wheel punctures are a familiar situation for every motorist. Every driver has experienced something like this at least once in their life.

But what about in this case? It's expensive to buy new tires. How to repair the damaged one then - put a patch on the inside or install a tourniquet?

A harness or a tire patch, which is better

Indeed, in many cases, a tire after a puncture can still serve for some time if it is properly repaired. And for minor repairs to a regular puncture from a nail or self-tapping screw, it is quite possible to use a tourniquet.

It allows you to repair the damaged area well so that the tire does not deflate. Of course, it is possible that it will still be a little undercut, but it will not go down completely in a short trip.

Such a wheel must be monitored. However, it is necessary to measure the pressure in the tires periodically, even if they are brand new and have never been repaired. And, as soon as the tire deflates a little, just pump it up. So after the repair, it is quite possible to drive a whole season, or even more than one.

The patch is usually placed only for significant cuts. Many experienced motorists and tire fitters are skeptical about such repairs. They say that it is temporary and only helps to ride until a new tire is bought.

Of course, if the wheel has acquired such a significant defect, a patch can be applied. But don't expect it to last long. Here's how lucky.

Therefore, after an accident, you should think about buying a new tire. It is desirable to buy it as soon as possible. But there are cases when motorists managed to successfully drive the whole season even after such a repair.

But it's better not to risk it. In the case of minor punctures, a tourniquet can be dispensed with. And, if the damage turned out to be significant, it is better to immediately buy a new tire. After all, sometimes a patch is just money thrown away.

By the way, if you have a full-size spare tire, it is quite possible to ride it until you get a new tire, but it's better to hurry, because. A tire puncture can happen anywhere. As a rule, such a misfortune overtakes at the most inopportune moment. What to do? To prevent the situation from taking you by surprise, always keep a minimum set of tools with you. This article will show you how to fix a puncture on a tubeless tire without removing it.

The first thing I want to say is always carry a pump, a jack, keys and a spare wheel with you. In the event of a puncture, it is not difficult to replace the wheel. But it happens that there is no way to make a replacement. What to do? To solve this problem without removing the wheel, there are as many as three ways.

How to fix a puncture in a tubeless tire with sealant

The first method in any case involves acquiring a special puncture sealant in advance. This is a can of sealant under high pressure.

To repair a puncture without removing the wheel, follow these steps:

  1. Jack up the punctured wheel.
  2. Find the damage and the object that led to the puncture, remove it.
  3. Screw the hose from the can to the valve.
  4. Press down on the piston and inject sealant into the tire to inflate the tire.
  5. Turn the wheel around its axis to better distribute the substance inside.
  6. Inflate the tire to the correct setting.
  7. Drive slowly for a couple of kilometers to distribute the train.

It is important to know that this is only a temporary fix. It will allow you to drive to the nearest tire shop or tire shop.

How to repair a tubeless tire puncture yourself with a tourniquet

Another common situation is when you accidentally hit a sharp object, such as a nail. For such cases, you can use another repair kit. It includes a device like a screwdriver with a hole, a tourniquet with a sticky base, glue. A flat-blade screwdriver and pliers will also come in handy.

Let's walk through the process of repairing a puncture step by step without removing the wheel:

  1. Insert a screwdriver into the puncture and widen the rupture by turning the tool. Leave it inside without letting the air out completely.
  2. Take a screwdriver with an eye and thread the tourniquet inside, then fold it.
  3. Lubricate the harness with glue.
  4. Remove the screwdriver from the hole by turning it. All this is done very quickly. Next, insert the tourniquet inside and pull out the screwdriver with the eyelet, leaving the tourniquet there.
  5. Cut off the excess protruding part of the bundle.
  6. Inflate the wheel to the required parameters, check the tightness.

How to fix a puncture in a tubeless tire with a self-tapping screw

But not every driver carries such repair kits with him. If you don't have anything with you, then a self-tapping screw will do. In this case, the following steps are performed:

  1. Locate the puncture with soap suds or water.
  2. Insert a self-tapping screw or screw into the hole. It can be unscrewed from the upholstery.
  3. It is advisable to apply glue, varnish, sealant, well, at least something for better sealing on the self-tapping screw.

This case is suitable when there is nothing more suitable with you, and there is no possibility or desire to call a tow truck.

Here are some simple ways to help solve the problem with a puncture. All of them are temporary measures, so after such repairs it is necessary to get to the tire fitting as soon as possible.

We repair tubeless tires: methods and rules

Modern passenger cars are equipped with tubeless tires. Tires with rubber chambers inside are extremely rare today, only on super-budget vehicle options. Car owners have long appreciated all the convenience and benefits that tubeless tires have. Unlike chambered rubber, they keep air in the wheels by being sealed to the rim. The tightness of tubeless tires is ensured by a two-millimeter layer of rubber applied to the tire from the inside. It is he who prevents the passage of air. The coating of soft rubber layer provides tightness at the junction of the tire with the rim of the rim. The tire bead sits on the so-called rim shelf, which is equipped with a special rounded ledge. Thanks to him, the tire is securely connected to the wheel rim, and complete tightness of the joint is achieved. A tubeless tire is filled with air through a valve installed on the rim, on its rim.

Advantages of tubeless tires over tubed tires

Why did tubeless tires become so popular that they gradually replaced tubed tires? First, tubeless tires are much lighter. This is a very important and great advantage, because heavy weight enhances the inertial movement of the wheel when driving on, to put it mildly, imperfect road surfaces, which we still have much more than smooth autobahns. As a result, this affects the condition of the chassis, accelerates its wear. In addition, tubeless tires do not heat up during driving in the same way that chamber rubber heated up, in which the inner cylinder rubbed against the tire while driving. Such friction led to its rapid wear, and also increased the likelihood of tire rupture during movement. When a tube is punctured, the tube tire loses air very quickly, since it escapes not only from the puncture site, but also through leaky tire beads that do not fit snugly against the rim shelf. In addition, if such a tire is punctured, you will not be able to stop the car immediately, it will travel more than a dozen meters by inertia until it comes to a complete stop. During this time, the tube and the tire can be damaged more thoroughly, the rubber of the inner cylinder will “chew”. With tubeless tires, this option is excluded. Even if a puncture occurs, thanks to the tightness of the chamber and its periodic pumping, you can get to the tire service.

Tubeless and tube tires also differ in how they are mounted / dismantled. If chambered rubber can be freely disassembled or, conversely, installed at home, then such a number will not work with a tubeless one - the risk of damaging the side flanges is too high, damage to which will lead to depressurization of the tire. Due to the peculiarities of installation and dismantling, many motorists find it impossible to repair a tubeless tire with their own hands, especially on the road, not in a comfortable garage, but on the side of the road. And in vain. Of course, it will not be possible to completely eliminate the problem at a professional level without special equipment. But to make sure that the damaged tire still travels, and sometimes not only reaches the tire fitting center, but goes more than one hundred kilometers after an impromptu repair, is quite realistic.

To do this, use special tire repair kits, which can be purchased everywhere today by going to any car shop. Better yet, buy everything you need to repair a tubeless wheel yourself separately and always have it ready. By doing this, you will save some money, which is always nice. The fact is that manufacturers of ready-made repair kits, in an effort to make their kits more expensive and solid in appearance, include in them both really useful tools and materials, as well as those that you can easily do without. Using repair kits or separately purchased harnesses and tools, you can repair tubeless tires not only for cars, but also for trucks. This can also be regarded as one of the advantages of tubeless tires over tube tires. It is much more difficult to repair it with a puncture. It is necessary to disassemble the wheel, remove the chamber, find the puncture site, and then degrease the working area, cut out the patch, and seal the rubber balloon. After drying, the camera is installed in place, and the wheel is beaded. With a tubeless tire, everything is much easier.


RUNWAY Tubeless Tire Repair Kit, 7-Piece

What to do in the event of a flat tire

If you find that your car's tubeless tire wheel is damaged, first assess the severity of the situation. If, in your opinion, you can do without repair, having reached a reliable tire service on periodic pumping of the wheel, then it’s better to do so. Tubeless tires were designed to hold air even with foreign objects sticking out of the cord. But do not forget that riding with a nail or other object in the tire causes the puncture to gradually expand and the tire around the damaged area begins to gradually collapse.

But, if it so happens that the damage to the wheel received on the road is too extensive, the chamber does not hold air and it will not be possible to complete the journey while inflating the tire, you need to choose the best method of temporary repair and start it immediately. A tubeless tire is repaired in the following ways:

When choosing a repair using a tourniquet, you need to decide what type of material will be used. The harness can be cord or rubber. Let's consider both of these options.


Wheel repair kit, 6 pieces

Tire repair using cord harness

Cord harness has found wide distribution as a repair material for tubeless tires. With this harness, you can carry out repairs in any conditions: on a city street or on the side of a country road. It is a strip of high-strength nylon, which is richly impregnated with high-quality rubber-based adhesive. Such harnesses are supplied to the domestic market by many manufacturers, they have certain differences in technical characteristics and cost. But all cord harnesses are installed according to the same type of scheme:

  1. First of all, they find the place of damage and mark it with wax crayon or another marker.

  2. Remove the item that damaged the tire if it is stuck in the cord.

  3. Then you should check the tire pressure, it should not fall below 0.5 atmospheres.

  4. Take a spiral awl and use it to determine at what angle the tire is damaged.

  5. Apply vulcanizing glue to the awl.

  6. Using the awl inserted into the puncture, coat the puncture site with glue in the most thorough way, for which you need to rotate the tool lubricated with it clockwise. Perform this action three times - lubricate the awl and insert it into the puncture, then leave the tool in the cord for the time being.

  7. In the meantime, select the desired harness and carefully remove the protective film from it.

  8. Insert the tourniquet into a special needle, focusing on the center.

  9. On both sides, cover the surface of the tourniquet with vulcanizing glue.

  10. Remove the helical awl from the tire where you left it at the puncture site.

  11. Install a pen with a needle and a tourniquet placed inside into the puncture.

  12. By pressing the handle, install the needle with the tourniquet into the puncture, advancing to the stop at a given angle.

  13. Remove the pen with the needle from the puncture site without rotating it.

  14. Carefully cut off the parts of the tourniquet sticking out on the surface.

Then you need to determine how tight the tire is repaired. This can be done with the help of a special liquid, which is used to determine the puncture site. If, after applying such a liquid, no air bubbles appear, then the tire is temporarily repaired and can be used further. If air bubbles appear, try installing an additional tourniquet in the place of damage to the tire.

This method of temporary repair is inexpensive, but it has proven its effectiveness more than once. A tire repaired in this way without repair will serve you for a long time - up to 6 months.

Use of rubber band

A rubber harness costs more than cord, but it is also more reliable. They install it in much the same way as the cord one, but there are still some differences. For example, when installing a rubber band, do not use an awl in the form of a rasp, since it can damage the rubber band during installation. In addition, the rubber band must be mounted on the adhesive specified by the manufacturer in the instructions for the repair kit.


Raw rubber band for repairing RUNWAY tubeless tires, 5 pcs

Tubeless tire repair with anchor

In this case, an anchor is a special type of bundle, one end of which ends with a small patch. The anchor is installed in the same way as other types of harnesses, but in addition, it glues the puncture site with an internal patch. To do this, the tourniquet is pushed inward, and then pulled a little in the opposite direction. Anchor can only be installed using a special cutter with a diameter of 6 mm. It is purchased separately from the set. But your efforts will surely be crowned with success, because the anchor is considered the most reliable option for repairing a tubeless tire with a harness. But with the help of harnesses, you can not repair side punctures. And in any case, even if the repair is successful, it is necessary in the coming days to choose the time to visit the tire service. Remember that prolonged use of the harness will cause irreversible damage to the tubeless tire. And until the problem is fixed, constantly monitor tire pressure.

Tire repair with sealant

The second option for repairing tubeless tires involves the use of sealant. This option cannot be called optimal, but it has become widespread, since tire repair in this way is carried out very quickly, literally in a matter of minutes. And the result of its implementation is guaranteed to allow you to get to the intended purpose of the trip, without first stopping by the tire service you met along the way.

The sealant is very easy to apply. In this case, it is not necessary to remove a nail or other object from the cord, due to which the tire was damaged. Simply attach a bottle filled with sealant to the valve on the rim of the wheel and see that the contents of the bottle are pumped into the wheel. Keep in mind that repairing a tire with sealant will significantly disrupt the balance, so choose a moderate speed. But on the other hand, repairs with the help of a sealant are easy, simple and very fast. You can use it even while standing in a traffic jam.

Today, you can easily buy different types of sealants. The most widely used gel, liquid, aerosol formulations. Gel ones are good because they can be used all-season, both in the summer heat and in the cold season. But at the same time, they significantly worsen the balance of the wheel.


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