ATV batteries are considered consumables that need to be replaced from time to time. This guide will help you choose the right battery for your quad and provide step-by-step instructions on removing the old battery and installing a new one.
Before you go ahead and buy a new battery, it’s a good idea to verify that your old one actually has gone bad.
Begin by charging your battery properly with an external battery charger. If you don’t know how to charge an ATV battery properly, please refer to this guide.
After charging the battery to a full charge, allow it to rest for at least 12 hours to relieve itself of any surface charge that could lead to a false reading. Then use a multimeter to read the battery’s voltage. Set the multimeter to DC voltage. The red lead goes to the positive battery terminal and the black lead to the negative.
If the battery is not able to hold a charge above 12. 4V, it is likely starting to go bad. Another telltale sign of a battery that has gone bad is when it won’t hold a charge over time; the voltage drops even when the battery is not connected and not in use.
Another simple and effective way of testing whether the battery is healthy or not is by performing a so-called load test. You can learn about it in this post.
Head over to this post if you want to learn how long an average ATV battery should last.
All ATV batteries are not the same. They vary in physical size, capacity (Ah-rating), battery terminal location and type, and battery type (traditional lead-acid, AGM, GEL, and Lithium-Ion).
When it comes to determining what battery you need, you have several alternatives.
It should have the relevant specifications or battery type listed.Tools and supplies you will need:
Some ATVs have the battery located in the front, some in the middle, and others at the bike’s rear end. On some models, the battery is visible when standing next to the bike, while on others, you need to remove plastic covers, the seat, or other components to access the battery.
See if you can spot the battery from the outside. If you see no sign of a battery, your best bet would be removing the seat or the front cover.
Here are a few examples of battery locations on different brands and models:
The battery on a Textron Alterra TBX 700 is easily accessible in the rear, underneath the lift-up cargo deck.The battery on a Polaris Sportsman 570 is located at the bottom of the frame, at the front end of the bike.The battery on a Polaris Sportsman XP 1000 is located underneath the front rack, and a web of cables.
NOTICE:
Different ATV manufacturers use various systems to hold the battery in place. A simple hold-down strap held in place by one bolt is the most common.
NOTICE: Again, make sure not to accidentally short the battery to ground by touching the positive terminal with your tool when unbolting the battery.
Take note of which way the battery terminals are oriented. The new battery should be installed the same way. Lift the battery out of its position. You may need to work the nearby wiring a little to gain enough clearance to get the battery out.
PS: Remember to recycle the old battery.
Some batteries are sold as kits that need to be activated before installation. The battery casing comes dry with no fluid, while the battery electrolyte comes in a separate container.
The kit should come with detailed instructions on how to activate the battery. Make sure to follow them closely!
Other batteries come pre-activated and need no assembly before installation.
Please charge the battery with an external battery charger to make sure it is fully charged before installation.
While some batteries come pre-charged, it is always good practice to top-off the charge before installing the battery to the ATV.__Yuasa_003535.jpg)
The charging system on ATVs does not always have the capacity to charge a battery that holds a low charge, especially if you only go on shorter rides.
Your battery will lose some of its capacity if left at a low charge over time, so make sure it gets a good start by fully charging it before you start using it.
Place the battery in the battery tray. Make sure it is oriented the same way as the old battery so that the red cable lines up with the positive battery terminal, and the black cable lines up with the negative battery terminal.
Reinstall the battery retainer. The retainer bolts should be snug so that the battery does not move or come loose.
NOTICE: Do not overtighten the retainer bolts, as this may crack the battery housing.
The battery terminal connectors should always be installed in the reverse order of the removal process.
IMPORTANT: Install the RED positive (+) cable first to the positive battery terminal, then install the BLACK negative (-) cable to the negative battery terminal.
The battery on a four-wheeler can be located in the bike’s upper front area, in the lower center area, or at the upper rear area. You may need to remove the seat or a plastic cover to see the battery. If you still don’t find the battery, your best option is to refer to your bike’s owner’s manual. It shows the battery’s location with a picture.
The average ATV battery will last 3-5 years before it needs to be replaced. It’s good practice to replace before it goes bad, to avoid starting issues in an inconvenient situation. Slow engine cranking or an illuminated check battery light are early signs that may indicate that the battery is close to reaching its life expectancy.
Sure signs that the battery has gone bad is when it no longer can be charged above 12.4V or when it no longer will hold a charge.
It is OK to install a bigger (higher ah rating) battery to an ATV as long as it is the same voltage, as long as it will fit, and as long as it can be held safely in place with the bike’s battery retaining system. Note that the ATVs charging may not be powerful enough to keep a bigger battery fully charged if you use power-consuming accessories such as a winch without allowing the bike to recharge.
ATVs and four-wheelers take 12V lead-acid, AGM, GEL, or Lithium-Ion batteries. Most ATVs come with a conventional flooded lead-acid battery (FLA) or absorbed glass mat (AGM) battery.
From time to time, you may need to charge your ATV or UTV battery using an external charger. The bike’s own charging system does not always have the capacity to keep up with the battery drain even from regular use.
Some new batteries will also need charging before use.
This guide will tell you how to charge any ATV or UTV battery and answer some of the most common questions people have about the charging process.
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ATVs do have a built-in charging system that is powered by the bike’s engine. But the current it provides is not very high.
You can charge the battery by going for a long ride, but it’s not always practical. Instead, you may use an external battery charger.
Tools and gear required:
The battery and charger must stay dry during the whole charging process.
Also, the battery must be somewhere well-ventilated to vent out any gases from the charging process.
Overcharging or even just charging a battery causes a chemical process that releases explosive hydrogen gas. With proper venting, you minimize the risk of the gas gets ignited by a spark, which may cause an explosion.
A garage or shed where you can leave the garage door open would be a good location.
If you don’t have a dry and well-ventilated area that will fit your whole ATV, consider removing the battery from the bike to charge it.
The ATV and all accessories should be turned off when charging to prevent sparks.
You need to make sure you have proper access to the battery. Some ATVs will have their battery hidden behind a plastic cover that needs to be removed for access. Others have the battery readily accessible without removing any parts.
The battery on my Polaris Sportsman XP1000 is hidden under the front cargo rack cover.After locating the battery you should visually inspect it to look for cracks or other damages.
Never attempt to charge a damaged battery!
Before you hook up the charger, you need to identify what type of battery you have.
Some types of batteries require a specific type of charger to charge properly, or that you add a few additional battery-specific steps to the charging process.
Here is a list of the different types of batteries you may find on an ATV or UTV, and how to tell them apart.
All batteries should have a label that indicates the battery-type, but sometimes these have worn off. Check out this post to learn what ATV battery numbers mean.
Also, look for a part number. A quick google search will tell you exactly what battery you have if you enter this number.
FLA batteries are a non-sealed wet-cell style of batteries that uses lead plates and liquid battery acid as an electrolyte.
On top of the battery, there are removable caps, one for each cell. The caps are either threaded or pull-out style.
Another way of telling that you have an FLA battery is by its semi-transparent casing, where you will see the water level inside the battery. There are marks to indicate the maximum and minimum level of electrolyte.
FLA batteries only: Before you begin charging you should remove the caps to verify that the lead plates are covered by electrolyte fluid. Add distilled water if the level is below the minimum mark.
SLA and VRLA are different acronyms for the same type of battery. Their construction is quite similar to conventional flooded batteries, but there is one main difference.
If you overcharge a sealed battery, there is no way to open it to add more fluid. They have a flat top with no filling ports or caps. Never try to pry-open a sealed battery!
Type 3: Lithium-ion batteryThe easiest way to know that you have a Lithium-ion battery is to feel its weight.
They weigh about 1/10th or less of other types of batteries.
Gel-cells are also lead-acid batteries. But instead of being a liquid, the electrolyte is in gel form. GEL-cells are not that common on ATVs because they are more expensive and do not offer the same power capacity as the others on this list.
A GEL-cell battery looks very similar to an SLA battery because of its sealed flat top. One way to tell them apart is by shaking the battery. You should hear the battery acid splashing around inside an SLA battery, while you will hear nothing when shaking a gel-filled battery.
GEL batteries are not the best option for ATVs, but some use them.AGM batteries are another variation of a lead-acid dry-cell battery. They are completely sealed and have a fine sponge-like mesh of glass fibers inside.
As with the GEL battery, you won’t hear any movement inside when shaking an AGM battery. Other than their labeling, it may be hard to tell them apart. Look up the model-number online if you are not sure.
The battery on my Polaris Sportsman XP1000 is a real pain to reach. But luckily, I was able to see the part number through the wires. A quick google search reveals that it’s a YUASA 18.9Ah AGM battery.If you use the wrong type of charger for your battery type, or set up a manual charger incorrectly, overcharge or undercharge the battery which may cause permanent damage.
Using a good quality, intelligent charger that is compliant with your type of battery is the easiest way to charge your battery safely. Under certain conditions, you may also use a manual bench-style charger.
A quality intelligent charger will be able to charge a variety of different battery types.Here are some guidelines to what type of chargers you may and may not use on different types of ATV and UTV batteries:
For all ATV and UTV batteries
Flooded lead-acid (FLA) battery
These batteries are the least picky when it comes to choosing a charger. If you overcharge a flooded battery, you may just add distilled water. Any manual or automatic charger will work as long as they are the right voltage and have low-amp settings.
Absorbed glass mat (AGM) and sealed lead-acid (SLA) batteries
While it is possible to charge both AGM and SLA batteries with a manual charger, it is not recommended. If you don’t monitor the charging process carefully, you may overcharge, which would cause gassing and water depletion.
Sealed batteries cannot be topped off, so the damage is permanent. That’s why it’s better to always use an intelligent charger for any sealed battery like AGM and SLA batteries.
Some, but not all intelligent chargers, will have a dedicated AGM charge mode. AGM and SLA batteries have a very similar charge profile.
Therefore most brands of AGM batteries, as well as SLA batteries, will have no problems with any 12-volt intelligent battery charger as a charge source.
According to Optima (https://optimabatteries.com), a high-quality AGM compliant charger may improve battery performance and lifespan, but most battery chargers and maintainers will work just fine on Optima brand batteries and other AGM batteries.
GEL-cell battery
GEL-cell batteries are the most sensitive and require a very specific charge profile. The higher voltage from a flooded or AGM charger causes permanent hydrogen bubbles in the gelled electrolyte, which reduces battery capacity or ruin the battery altogether.
Never use a constant current manual charger to charge a GEL-cell battery, only a GEL-cell compliant intelligent charger. The charger should have reliable temperature sensing, voltage regulation, and a specific GEL-cell mode.
Lithium-ion battery
Technically you can charge a lithium-ion battery with a manual charger, but it is not recommended.
If you don’t follow a specific procedure, you will damage the battery permanently.
It’s recommended that you only use a Lithium-ion compliant charger.
Lithium-ions charge fast and at a higher voltage. A manual charger or even a standard intelligent charger will likely undercharge a Lithium-ion battery, which may damage the battery over time.
This step is not mandatory if you use a fully automatic charger that you know is compliant with your type of battery. The charger will do the job of choosing the right charge profile for you.
But if you use a constant current manual style of a charger, you need to know the battery’s voltage to be able to monitor the charging process.
In any case, the state of charge will tell you if your battery is completely dead or if it just needs to be topped off. It will also give you an indication of what charge time to expect.
Note that different types of batteries reach the same state of charge at different voltage levels.
| State of charge | Charge time |
| New (0%) | 14 – 20 hours or more |
| 75% | 3 – 6 hours |
| 50% | 6 – 10 hours |
| 25% | 10 – 14 hours |
A simplified formula to calculate the charge time of an empty battery is by dividing battery Ah rating with charging current in A (ampere). Charging a completely flat 15Ah battery with a 1,5A charger would take 10 hours.
Charging times will vary depending on various factors:
If you have a smart battery charger, it will stop charging automatically as soon as the battery is fully charged.
Usually, this should take no more than 12-16 hours unless the battery was completely flat.
Do not plug the charger to a wall socket yet.
Your charger has one positive lead and one negative lead. The positive lead will have a red clamp and the negative lead clamp will be black.
The red clamp will be connected to the positive battery terminal. To identify the positive battery terminal, look for one or more of these markings:
Make sure the terminal is clean to ensure a proper connection. Use a wire brush, and remember to wear your eye protection.
The negative will be connected to frame ground. Look for a bare, solid metal part of the frame or engine. Bare metal bolts are often good options. Make sure your ground connection is clean as well.
When removing the first lead after charging, there might be a small spark. It’s best if this spark happens somewhere away from the battery where there is less risk of gas build-up from the charging process.
Modern intelligent chargers are designed not to overcharge the battery, so you will most likely have no issues if you choose to connect the negative lead directly to the negative battery terminal instead of the frame. After all, this is what most charger manuals will tell you to do.
Connecting it to the frame or engine instead just adds one more layer of safety.
From an electrical point of view, the battery will charge just as well whichever of the two options you choose.
Your negative battery terminal will have either:
Now that your connections are clean you can connect the charge leads.
Now plug the charger to a wall socket, but make sure it is not charging yet.
Manual charger
You need to set the charge rate (current) manually. A good rule of thumb to know what amperage your battery should be charged at is to divide its Ah- rating by ten. A 15Ah battery should use a charger with a power output of no more than 1,5A. You should never charge an ATV battery with more than 3A.
Intelligent charger
Choose the right charge-mode for your type of battery. Using the wrong mode on an intelligent charger or may overcharge or undercharge the battery.
You are now ready to initiate the charging process. Make sure you have enough time to charge the battery to full charge, or it will sulfate.
Do not attempt to start an ATV or UTV when connected to an intelligent battery charger.
For all types of batteries
You want to make sure the battery does not overheat during the charging process.
If the battery becomes warm to touch, turn off the charger, let it sit for a few minutes to allow any gasses to vent out before removing the charge leads. Let the battery cool off before you continue charging it.
For flooded lead-acid batteries
The electrolyte levels should be monitored during the charging process. If it falls under the specified level in any of the cells, you should remove the cap and add distilled water until you reach the correct level.
For manual battery chargers
A manual charger won’t turn off when the battery is fully charged. You need to monitor the voltage to keep track of the battery’s current state of charge. Use the table from step 5 as guidance.
When the state of charge is about 80%, you should turn down the amps to about half of what you started with. A lower amperage at the final part of the charging process will give you a slightly higher final charge rate, as well as reducing the risk of overcharging the battery.
When you reach a full state of charge according to the table, the charger must be switched off or put in a maintenance-mode if available.
Unplug the charger and let it sit for a few minutes to let any gasses vent before disconnecting the leads.
Use a piece of cardboard as a fan if you suspect gas buildup over the battery.
As long as the charger is unplugged, it doesn’t really matter which lead you to remove first.
But it is best practice to always start with the negative lead. There is no harm done if you accidentally touch ground with a negative lead.
Wait a few hours and use a voltmeter or multimeter to check if the battery still holds a charge. If the voltage drops, there might be a problem with internal sulfation.
It may be worth trying to charge the battery with a charger that has a specific desulfation mode before discarding the battery.
Read this guide to troubleshoot a battery that wont charge or won’t hold a charge.
The charging system on an ATV is not as effective as the one you will find on a car, so it will need more time to charge the battery properly.
Unless you do hour-long rides every time you start up your bike, it will likely draw more power to start the bike than it will be able to charge while you are running it.
In addition, ATV batteries are relatively small in both size and capacity to keep the overall weight of the bike down.
Combine that with a few power-hungry accessories like your ATV winch, and you will soon find your battery too low on power to start your bike. Leaving the battery on a low charge over time will also cause damage to the battery.
That’s why it’s a good practice to charge it now and then to save you from problems down the road.
ATV batteries should be charged any time the battery voltage drops below 12.4 – 12.6 volts. Top off the battery each fall and each spring, and use battery tender to keep the battery healthy when the ATV is sitting for long periods without being used.
A battery should be charged at three different stages for optimal performance and service life. An intelligent charger switch between the stages automatically.
Automotive-style manual chargers do not have proper regulation for charging in stages. If you charge the battery too hard at the final stage, it won’t be able to reach a full charge.
The three charging stages are:
Bulk stage: At this stage, the battery will be charged up to about 70-80% of its capacity. The charger will be putting out a constant current determined by what charge mode or amp settings you have chosen. The voltage will increase gradually.
Absorption stage: At this stage, the charger will maintain voltage to the battery, but will taper off the charging current gradually as the battery gets closer to a full charge. This allows you to reach a higher state of charge without the risk of overcharging the battery.
Float stage: At this stage, the battery will be fully charged. All the charger is doing providing a small maintenance charge to keep the battery fully charged.
Both voltage and current will be reduced.
Intelligent chargers usually have different charge modes to choose from. Each charge mode will have a specific set of parameters that are optimized for different types and different sizes of batteries.
The charger uses microprocessors to collect information from the battery to see its current state of charge and to adjust the voltage and current accordingly.
For example, a lithium battery reaches 80% state of charge at a different voltage than a flooded lead-acid battery and needs the voltage input to be adjusted accordingly. And a gel battery cannot take as high of a charge rate as an AGM battery and will require a lower amperage.
All of these parameters are controlled by which charge mode you choose. Your chargers user manual will tell you more details about each charge mode your specific charger offer.
In general, there is no need to disconnect the battery terminals when you are charging an ATV or UTV battery, as long as you are using a fully automatic charger or a trickle charger at 1,5A or less.
Hooking up a high current booster charger, however, may cause a voltage spike that may damage your bike’s electronics. But you should never use a high-amp manual style charger on an ATV in any case, so this should be a non-issue.
If your bike, for some reason, has a high phantom drain, you may struggle to get any power to the battery. In this case, you should remove the negative terminal before charging your battery. Then you need to do some troubleshooting to identify what is draining your battery.
Also, please note that boosting your battery by hooking it up to another ATV using non-protected jumper cables may create a voltage spike that has the potential to damage your bike’s electronics. Always use cables that have built-in electronic protectors, and you should be fine.
For basic maintenance charging, where you are just topping off a battery that seems a bit low on power, there is no need to remove the battery from the bike.
When you are charging a brand new battery that has never been charged before or a battery that has gone completely dead, you might want to consider removing it.
When doing a deep-charge, there is a slightly bigger risk for explosive hydrogen gas to build-up, as well as possible overheating.
By removing the battery from the ATV, you won’t cause any harm to the bike in the unlikely event that something goes wrong.
Flooded lead-acid batteries have removable caps to add more electrolyte fluid (distilled water) if needed. There is one individual cap for each cell or a strip that ties several caps together.
Some believe that you always need to remove these caps when you charge to let out any gas build-up. This is usually not necessary. Those caps are designed to vent any gas produced while charging, or there will be a separate vent.
Refer to your specific battery’s safety instructions to verify whether the caps need to be removed or not.
As long as the vents are not blocked (stuffed with mud, anyone?), you should have no issues leaving the caps in.
The only time you need to remove the caps is when you wish to check the level of electrolyte or top off one or more cells that are low on fluid.
When using a manual charger, you can remove the caps for a short period to give you an indication of when the charging process is finished.
When you see hundreds of bubbles forming on top of the battery cells, you know that the battery is full. Any further charging is overcharging.
PS! Remember that the gas you see forming is flammable, and the fluid is acidic. Never remove battery caps without wearing eye protection and vinyl gloves.
The charging process described at the top of this post will work both for doing a deep charge on a new battery as well as doing a refresh charge to top off a battery where the voltage has dropped a bit too low.
There are, however, a few things to keep in mind.
If you hook up the charger, but it fails to initiate it’s charging cycle, the battery voltage may have dropped below the minimum threshold recognized by the charger.
To solve this, you can use a fully charged battery to trick the charger into starting the charging process.
Tools and equipment required:
Follow these steps:
You should not use a car charger or a typical trickle charger to charge an ATV unless it has specific settings to limit the amp output as low as 1-3 amps. Car chargers typically come with an output of 10A. Charging an ATV battery at 10 amps would overheat it and damage it permanently.
You can use jumper cables to jump-start an ATV battery from a car battery, but it is not a suitable method for doing a full charge. The car must stay off as long during the whole process.
Electric ATVs are rapidly gaining popularity due to their efficiency and environmental friendliness. But many riders still do not know how to charge an ATV on a battery. Improper charging reduces the battery life or the battery loses its capacity quickly. Therefore, let's figure out how to charge a children's ATV and consider the key recommendations of experts.
There are two ways to recharge the ATV battery.
The first and easiest is to connect the charger to the appropriate connector. All electric cars and scooters are charged in a similar way, although not all quadrics have a similar socket.
If the ATV does not have a charging port, the rider will have to connect the battery directly to the charging station. To do this, you need:
It is important to note that lithium batteries have a charge control board. This means that after a full charge, the process stops. Although overcharging the battery is still not recommended.
Another important question many riders are wondering is how to charge an ATV battery with an in-car charger.
Yes, such a procedure is possible, but you need to properly configure the charger. For recharging, you can only use devices with adjustable charging current and the ability to set its minimum level (0.5-0.7 A).
Important : The optimal current for charging the battery is 1/10 of the battery capacity (in Amps).
Each vehicle's user manual lists the optimum battery charging time. On average, this figure is 6-12 hours. The charging time depends on the generation of the battery, its capacity and the characteristics of the charger. Don't forget to charge the battery, though. If the battery has 30-40% capacity left, the recharging time should be reduced.
But what if you don't know how long to charge your ATV battery? In this case, you need to almost completely discharge the battery and charge it for 8 hours. After that, the battery should be installed on the quadric, and the charge level should be assessed.
If the indicator shows 100%, next time you need to charge the battery for 6-7 hours. In this way, you can determine the optimal recharging time.
Also remember that overcharging is the main enemy of batteries. It is strongly not recommended to leave the battery connected to the network for 15-20 hours. This leads to a decrease in battery capacity and, accordingly, a decrease in the operating time of the quadric.
Knowing how long it takes to charge an ATV, you can make a schedule for recharging it. For example, the battery can be connected to the network in the evening or after each trip. You can also purchase a replacement battery, thereby increasing the riding time on the ATV.
The battery of any electrical equipment must be properly maintained. Violation of the recommendations may lead to a decrease in battery capacity or damage to it. To avoid such problems, it is recommended:
Separately, it is worth mentioning the "buildup" of the battery. Immediately after purchasing the equipment, you will need to fully charge and charge the ATV several times (2-3 times).
Most riders store their bikes before winter. And in order for the device to be ready for operation in the spring, it must be properly preserved. Preparing an electric quad bike for wintering is quite simple, you just need to find a warm and dry place to store the quad.
Another important conservation point is battery preparation.
Before wintering you need:
Note : If you leave the quad battery in the cold, the battery will simply "leak" and stop working.
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DELTA HR series batteries are highly efficient batteries and work well in cyclic mode.
The DELTA factory is located in China and is characterized by the quality and stability of the discharge characteristics of the produced batteries.
Optimal, we consider this battery according to the "price-quality" criterion. You should not expect a long service life from her, as a rule it is a season or two.
We wish your children a comfortable ride! And in order for the new battery to serve you as long as possible, be sure to read and follow the operating instructions.
General: You purchase a battery using technology AGM - this means:
Before purchase:
New battery:
Installing a battery on a children's motorcycle:
Function test and operating rules:
The charge time is determined as follows: look at the charge current indicated on the body of the standard charger that the machine was equipped with. Let's say 500mA is indicated there, the capacity of the new battery, for example 6Ah, 6 divide by 0.5 = 12 Bottom line: the time to fully charge the battery is 12 hours! Battery charge. The most important point in the rules.
Chargers for children's electric cars and motorcycles. 
Seasonal battery storage.
Store the battery in a dry place away from direct sunlight, at temperatures between 0°C and 25°C. THE WARRANTY FOR THE BATTERY IS NOT COVERED IN THE FOLLOWING CASES:
BATTERY DISPOSAL : A failed battery must be taken to a waste battery collection point for recycling. If you follow the rules of operation and maintenance, your battery will last more than one season.
| Basic | |
|---|---|
| Short Description | Battery DELTA HR12-12 12V, 12Ah (12V, 12ah) 151x98x95+6, 3.84kg |
| Item model | HR 12-12 |
| Name | HR 12-12 |
| Manufacturer | Delta |
| Country | China |
| Electrical characteristics of the battery | |
| Voltage, V | 12 |
| Capacity, Ah | 12 |
| Energy efficiency | HR increased energy efficiency |
| technology | AGM |
Form factor (size), terminals, weight. | |
| Length, mm | 151 m |
| Width, mm | 98 m |
| Height, mm | 95 m |
| Height with terminal, mm | 101 |
| Weight kg | 3. 9kg |
| Pack quantity | four |
| Standard type-size | 12 volts 10-16 Ah: 151x94x100 (LxWxH), mm |
| Operating characteristics | |
| Service life in buffer mode, years | 5 |
Cycle life, no.  | |
