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An all-new replacement clutch utilizing 20% oversize rollers to improve clutch life under hard starting conditions. Includes new pinion gear that solves the kick out problem associated with worn OEM clutches. The strengthened shaft insure reliable starting and the high contact bearing seals will not leak oil.
Product Style | RevZilla Item # | MFR. Product # | Availability |
---|---|---|---|
Product Style All Balls Starter Clutch With Bearing For Harley Twin Cam 2006-2017 | RevZilla Item #1085517 | MFR. Product #79-2104 | AvailabilityIn Stock: Ships within 24 hours |
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ATV Riders Forum > Sport ATV Model Information > Honda TRX 400EX & 400X ATV Info > another starter questions.... starter/sprag
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Xplorer99
10-12-2011, 07:02 PM
hey guys... iv had an ongoing starter problem... at first i thought i just needed a new battery... then after a new battery it still did it.... so i thought starter was going bad... but a buddy of mine just had to replace the starter clutch on the inside of the motor... and he said his did the same thing mine is doing. just wanted some more opinions before i rip the side cover off lol..
- starter spins but wont crank motor. hit the starter again, might spin the motor enough to get 2 full cranks out of the motor... might sping free again... then sping the motor.. . sometimes it starts out spinning the motor, then it just spins free...
it usually only does this when you first cold start it... when im out riding it doesnt seem to do it... but then again the motor is warm and starts on the first crank
i pulled the starter side cover, and the idler gear is fine, no teeth missin on the starter shaft or on the idler. and the reduction gear teeth are fine too. should i just buy the internals and replace them? what all parts would need/should be replaced?
i was hoping to get a few more weeks of riding in before snow flies... but seeing how my clutch cable broke. and this problem is getting worse, i may end up parking it early this year and tearing it apart... it does need a bunch of minor stuff done any... ugh:ermm:
edit: reduction gear has a bit of front to back play... about .035
dxcody
10-13-2011, 05:32 AM
not real sure on that one, but i have a good starter i would sell you for cheap. .
PM me if you are interested.
Xplorer99
10-13-2011, 10:15 PM
i took the idler gear out, and the starter spins consistantly with out the gear in there, doesnt hesitate or anything. perhaps i should just tear that clutch deal out and replace it and see if that works?
Pipeless416
10-13-2011, 10:34 PM
it's your starter clutch. its basically a one way bearing. you basically just pull the left cover off, then remove the flywheel and its right there. about a 20 minute job with the right tools :)
Xplorer99
10-13-2011, 10:47 PM
Originally posted by Pipeless416
it's your starter clutch. its basically a one way bearing. you basically just pull the left cover off, then remove the flywheel and its right there. about a 20 minute job with the right tools :)
ok thanks, i just wanted a second opinion on it... only special tool would be the flywheel puller right? i actually just tore down a 300ex. ..completely lol so i know its not real hard.
does the starter clutch just wear out and get worse to the point of no starting? or could it self destruct or something? im not one to put off maintenance, but being so close to winter time, id like to ride it a couple more weeks before it park it for the winter...
thanks for the info!
dxcody
10-18-2011, 05:09 AM
now mine started doing the same exact thing.
Except mine officially went out on me yesterday.
What exactly is it? The one way starter clutch or that big gear on the back of the flywheel?
Xplorer99
10-18-2011, 05:22 AM
Originally posted by dxcody
now mine started doing the same exact thing.
Except mine officially went out on me yesterday.
What exactly is it? The one way starter clutch or that big gear on the back of the flywheel?
the one way bearing. the OEM parts fische shows the bearing and clutch together but 2 seperate parts. .. not sure if you replace one or the other or both tho...
Pipeless416
10-18-2011, 12:39 PM
you just replace the one way bearing/starter clutch. it will not self destruct or anything, however if you take it out and compare it to a new one you will notice that the spring running through the entire thing will have some free play. also, you are correct. a flywheel remover is the only thing that's "odd" that this job requires. you may want to replace the cover gasket while you're in there.
edit: ask for a price quote from honda east toledo. they are a new sponsor of atvriders and they have their own section with special atvriders.com member pricing.
link to their section:
http://www.exriders.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=238
Xplorer99
10-18-2011, 03:54 PM
thanks! ill give them shout a pay day then..
what would i need? part number 4, or 5
http://partsfinder. onlinemicrofiche.com/worldofwheels6/Honda_OEM/HondaATV.asp?Type=13&A=110&B=16
Pipeless416
10-18-2011, 04:03 PM
number 5
Xplorer99
12-25-2011, 01:15 PM
that special tool to remove the flywheel is the flyweel HOLDER isnt it.... lol i bought the flywheel removal tool (the "bolt") tore everything apart (wasted recently changed oil) to find out that i apparently need ANOTHER special tool haha. but i did pull the clutch cover, cleaned the oil screen, and checked my clutch plates, they need replaced and so do the clutch springs, and replaced the valve cover gasket that has been leaking for a while. so it wasnt a totally wasted day...
i got the bearing (as well as MANY other parts) from Honda East Toledo.... BIG SAVINGS and highly recomended!
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2.1.01.0290 Overrunning clutch (bendix) of the starter, assy (STARTER CLUTCH) ATV Stels ATV 300B 4x4 Bueang rotates. There is no engagement of the electric starter gear with the crankshaft. In this case, it is necessary to change the overrunning clutch of the Stels ATV 300B electric starter.
Drain the engine oil
Unscrew the plastic trim on the right side
Unscrew and remove the shift rods from the shift knob to the gearbox.
1 - Disconnect connectors (magneto leads) 2 pcs.
2 - Exhaust pipe
3 - Exhaust gasket
4 - Magneto cover
5 - Magneto cover gasket
6 - Pins 2pcs.
7 - Stator winding
8 - Induction sensor
1 - rotor
2 - shaft (intermediate gear)
3 - gear of the starter Divine
4 - Club of the starter assembly
5 - Outbuilding
6 - The gear of the starter coupling of the starter
Remove the rotor nut
Remove the washer
Remove the rotor with a flywheel puller. Position the flywheel puller over the rotor. Make sure that after installing the mounting bolts, the gaps between the puller and the rotor are the same throughout their entire length. If necessary, one of the mounting bolts can be turned slightly to adjust the position of the puller. Cover the end of the crankshaft with a spanner for protection.
Remove the rotor
Remove the key
Inspection/troubleshooting of the starter drive gears
Inspect the gear teeth for burrs/splintering, chipping/roughness/wear, and if damaged, replace.
Starter idler gear teeth
Starter freewheel teeth
Starter shaft teeth
Hold the starter clutch.
When turning the starter gear clockwise , should engage between the starter clutch and gear .
If no engagement occurs, the clutch is defective and must be replaced.
When turning the starter gear counterclockwise , the rotation must be free .
If the rotation is not free or smooth, the starter clutch is faulty. It should be replaced.
Install the starter gear, then install the key.
Clean the crankshaft taper and rotor bushing.
When installing the magneto rotor, make sure the key is securely seated in the crankshaft.
Install the rotor, washer and nut
Tighten the rotor nut while holding the rotor with the pulley holder. Tightening torque: 80 Nm
Andrey 01/30/2022 01:56
The lowest price and availability, 2 days to Kaluga. I recommend!!
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