How to test stator on arctic cat 700 efi atv


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I have drove my ATV, after I put it up, thought I had a bad battery...

So, I got a second new battery...

While it does start fine, I unhooked the positive battery post while it was running.. I dies dead...

So, I am looking at what might be an issue with a 700EFI, that does have crank rope, and could run without a battery.

Stator possible, but I need to know what to test and where the plugs are to unplug while its running...
Test specs on stator, I assume are like 30 Volts off the stator, need to know if frame ground is good for test or, is there some other option..

After testing if stator is good or bad - If good, then on to the regulator, LOL might have to wash the bike for it... But I can test if, If I know what to test. ..

Any info on the stator would be helpful, any pics and links...

Thanks, coolarman..

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Update:
Found the black 3 wire plug, a little burned back up on the yellow /org, yellow/ red, green / yel wires.... So, the side of the plug with the 3 yellow wires wasn't burned but, I tested from there...

Didn't know how to test adequately... Wire to ground didn't do a thing... Ohms tripped, so I assume that is good.
Continuity tripped as well so, its either good or melted together.. :lol:

Assuming it was good, i removed all my rear plastic, cleaned up the bike, unbound wires and started tracing stuff...

Found the wires go from that plug back to the voltage regulator.

I unplugged it, and it would run fine, no wires getting hot..

I plugged it in, and it would bog some... Assume it is trying to charge and over-heat wires - IT WAS!!!

SO, I tested at the plug going into the voltage regulator, wire to wire, cris-sross etc. .. Got some 19s, some 5s and 32ish volts... I know the stator should be outting 30+ SO, It seems that the stator is getting enough juice back to the voltage regulator...

Must be the regulator.... :rofl: thumbguy I dunno I dunno I dunno I dunno :huh: :huh: :huh:

I don't know if the testing works that way, I know there are 3 wires but yellow on all three and not having a ground doesn't help me test... And, I think I have this side of a joke for a test multi-meter (it requires a PHD in meterology - I don't have it or the destructions.. :lol

I'm gonna try a voltage regulator, and see if that corrects the issue and check for the heat wire issue... I hope I got it tested to a point...

I was able to get it to attempt to stay running with the wires jerry-rigged... I think that drove the regulator to die off as, it only worked for a little while...

Regulator... I guess...

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You need to test the yellow wires to each other having your meter set to read AC current. They should show 60 volts AC all three ways if my memory serves me right @ 5000 rpm. As a general rule you should NEVER EVER EVER disconnect a battery while the engine is running, its a very good way to fry your stator, same holds true for your car/truck you can fry the alternator by disconnecting the battery while its running.

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<div>QUOTE (pondtunes @ Oct 31 2010, 07:05 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

You need to test the yellow wires to each other having your meter set to read AC current. They should show 60 volts AC all three ways if my memory serves me right @ 5000 rpm. As a general rule you should NEVER EVER EVER disconnect a battery while the engine is running, its a very good way to fry your stator, same holds true for your car/truck you can fry the alternator by disconnecting the battery while its running.[/b]

Click to expand. ..

Question there for ya pond...

Update: When I found the correct yellow leeds, the black plug was more or less melted - I think contact was nearing or might have... But, I broke it apart and connected them with but-connectors now, all seems OK.

The recifier/regulator issue. I was able to test the wires going to it at the plug while it was running... I did have the 30, 31, to 32 volts at some of the wires... (Didn't know which ones are what but, I have since found the diagram for the rectifier and will check it.

QUESTION:
Yellow wires, all 3.. which one is a ground or, can you ground the black lead on the meter to the motor and then check each yellow with the red lead out of the meter?

Reason I ask this is, I was told by an arctic cat dealer to test this area... Where folks are getting the info on OHMs to wires, and what direction, or what wire to test is new to me, I have a Service diag PDF file and it references this procedure but doesn't show how to do it. . LOL...

It doesn't say, grab one yellow wire, and ground against the motor or alligator clip the yellow ground - Which yellow one would that be he he he... 3 yellow wires... I have a diagram of the stator, and yes three wires, not one references ground so, if both sides put out 80 volts @ 5000 RPM, if one does and the other doesn't.. I wouldn't know - not knowing which direction or ground to get that to show up..

I guess I really need to know what book or manual folks are getting the info from, or the little details.. I agree, not good to run on the stator but, in a pinch, it should run with rectifier/regulator feeding juice to a nearly dead battery if you crank rope it... This isn't possible if the battery is dead, so far I did get it to run, with the wires rigged at the burned up plug but, I think that finished the voltage regulator off testing that way...

Any feedback on how to test the yellow wires, either each grounded to the motor or, which one is a ground - Considering all three are yellow, would be a great help in finding how much I have to take off and buy. . he he he...

Thanks again, and hope I can find this one... Its a tough one...

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I have a voltage regulator from a 08 700 EFI. PM if your interested - $40 shipping included.

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Its alternating current, this means that it changes polarity back and fourth at specified intervals, ie Hertz.. That aside you don't test to the motor, or negative terminal of the battery at all. For testing your stator forget about it being connected to the bike at all.

You will put the red lead on any yellow wire, then the black lead on any other yellow wire in that plug. Then take note of the voltage.. Then leave your red lead on whatever wire you checked first and move the black lead to the yellow wire you havent tested. Again, take note of the voltage. Now leave the black lead where it is and move the red lead to the second yellow wire you tested. Note the voltage, they should all three be the same or close and I think for your bike it should be outputting 75 volts AC at 5000 RPM.

If you read it at idle you'll likely get a completely different reading.

But you do not check yellow to ground or anything other than yellow wire to another yellow wire.

Hope this clears things up!

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Thanks pond, that does clear it up.. I smoked my cheap meter, gonna go get a good one and test this afternoon...

Firecat, I'm gonna check this, I might still pm you on that reg... I think the one I got is toast... but want to make sure before I dive into it... I have the old one off right now... Hate to smoke a good one with a bad stator..

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<div>QUOTE (coolarman @ Nov 1 2010, 02:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>

Thanks pond, that does clear it up. . I smoked my cheap meter, gonna go get a good one and test this afternoon...

Firecat, I'm gonna check this, I might still pm you on that reg... I think the one I got is toast... but want to make sure before I dive into it... I have the old one off right now... Hate to smoke a good one with a bad stator.. [/b]

Click to expand...

That is the right approach. If I get a minute tonight I'll try and post a pic.

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UPDATE: New multi-meter, test of all 3 wires, yellow turned up that stator is peerfectly fine.. Man these things can take a good hit...

Anyway, I will have to PM you Fire and check into the Regulator, if it works and you still have it..

Thanks again for the info on testing these things.. I learned a lot and some of what not to do... he he he..

coolarman

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