20, 25, 30
Max Distance450 km - Mileage may vary based on hardness of compound
Traction Limits3
Weight10kg When stored in trunk or roof rack
20, 25, 30
Max DistanceHighly dependent on hardness of compound
Traction Limits3
Weight10kg When stored in trunk or roof rack
20, 25, 30
Max DistanceHighly dependent on hardness of compound
Traction Limits3
Weight10kg When stored in trunk or roof rack
The tyre is a large component used in conjunction with the engine to move and stop the vehicle.The road tyre is used as part of the tutorial with Uncle, and will be the first type of tyre the player will install in their Laika 601 Deluxe.
During rainy road trips, if the player drives into a puddle of water on the road, they will hydroplane for a short while. This can be costly as it causes the player to slide uncontrollably due to the loss of traction, and may end in a collision. The road tyres cannot handle this kind of weather, so take extra caution when choosing rainy road trips.
Like all tyres, the durability for these tires will steadily drop as they are used on the road. Eventually, the tyre will go flat and will not provide any traction while driving. The player must take extra tyres with them on the road if they plan to drive on worn tyres, or repair them with a Tyre Repair Kit.
There is also an offroad variant of tyre, which increases traction on dirt roads or when driving offroad.(Tested, but not extensively. Further Verification Needed.) This tyre can be seen to other AI vehicles. This tyre has no functionality in earlier versions.
A negative correlation exists between tyre traction and tyre compound hardness. As hardness decreases, traction increases and vise versa. As such, it is up to the player to determine whether they value the durability of their tyres or the traction output of their tyres.
With a handful of tyre repair kits, it is possible to prepare for any road condition,and never have to buy tyres again. Using a repair kit and a top rack, it is possible to prepare for any condition with very little handling compromise. Just with the repair kit, keep 2 of each tyre type on your car, for dry conditions offroad tyres at rear and road tyres at front. For wet conditions change out the road tyres for wet tyres. With the roof rack, simply purchase 2 more wet tires.
For wet conditions change out all tires for wet, dry conditions have road tyres at front and offroad at rear. When reaching a dirt road swap offroad tyres and road tyres.
Remember: Gameplay is procedural, your experience may vary. That is, while one player my oft experience dirt roads in which they have no choice, you may only encounter rainy regular roads.
Tyre position matters. At the very least the tyre position impacts the durability of the tyres, with rear showing faster wear.(More deliberate testing needed, or greater verification). Sliding also seems to impact tyre durability, and so should be avoided if one wants to save money.(Verified, but further testing recommended.) The traction of the leading tires on the surface strongly impacts handling, so using the most appropriate tyre type for driving conditions can be beneficial. Furthermore, using softer compound tires at the front may impact handling even more(More testing needed, derived from in-game loading tip.)
To replace a tyre, the player must be in possession of a Car Jack.
The player must place the jack under the left or right side of the car, and then lift the car up using the crank found on the jack. A lug wrench will then be provided to the player which will allow them to loosen and tighten the singular lug nut found in the center of each tyre.
Like any other component, a tyre can be repaired with a Tyre Repair Kit. The car must first be jacked up and the lug nuts loosened.
| Soft | Medium | Hard | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Road | 450kN | 425kN | 400kN |
| Wet | 400kN | 375kN | 350kN |
| Off-Road | 350kN | 325kN | 300kN |
| Soft | Medium | Hard | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Road | 350kN | 325kN | 300kN |
| Wet | 450kN | 425kN | 400kN |
| Off-Road | 350kN | 325kN | 300kN |
| Soft | Medium | Hard | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Road | 350kN | 325kN | 300kN |
| Wet | 350kN | 325kN | 300kN |
| Off-Road | 400kN | 350kN | 325kN |
| Soft | Medium | Hard | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Road | 1150kN | 1075kN | 1000kN |
| Wet | 1200kN | 1125kN | 1050kN |
| Off-Road | 1100kN | 1000kN | 925kN |
| Soft | Medium | Hard | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Road | n/a | n/a | n/a |
| Wet | " | " | " |
| Off-Road | " | " | "[] |
Grip, rate of wear and durability on all tyre compound
| Tyre compound | Traction/grip | Rate of wear and durabillity |
|---|---|---|
| Hard compound | Lowest | Slow rate of wear, most durable |
| Medium compound | Average | Average rate of wear, average durability |
| Soft compound | Highest | Fast rate of wear, least durable |
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Author: Andrey Ezhov Photo: Kilow
One of the most interesting premieres of the second row at the Paris Motor Show 2022 was the light electric SUV La Bagnole (translated from French as “clunker” or “rattle”) of the Kilow brand, owned by startup KG Automobile.
KG Automobile was founded by young French entrepreneurs Leo Choiseul and Florent Vitello, who spent several years developing and testing their La Bagnole SUV and introduced it in Paris under the Kilow trademark, emphasizing the lightness of the "clunker".
La Bagnole is an electric quadricycle of the L6e/L7e classes (depending on modification), which even with the maximum equipment weighs less than 350 kg (basic version - 283 kg). Overall length La Bagnole - 2812 mm, width - 1495 mm, height - 1460 mm, wheelbase - 2073 mm. Ground clearance is 390 mm, while there is no front overhang in principle, you can storm any slope.
At the heart of the body - a spatial steel frame, sparse sheathing is made of polymers and wood. There are only two places and a cargo area, for which you can order a wooden or plastic insert box with a volume of up to 650 liters. Load capacity - 150 kg.
Suspension - spring, double wishbones "in a circle". The power plant is two electric motors from a certain supplier from Slovenia, they rotate the rear wheels independently of each other, there are no intermediate gearboxes and no differential.
Maximum combined output - 16 kW (21 hp) and 480 Nm, continuous power - 6 kW (8 hp). Wheels shod with narrow "toothy" tires in 130/9 format0 R 18, equipped with hydraulic disc brakes.
The capacity of the 48-volt modular lithium iron phosphate battery is not specified, but it is known that two configurations are provided - with a range of 70 or 140 km. Up to 40 km / h, the “clunker” accelerates in 4 s. The maximum speed is 45 km/h for the version certified in the L6e class (in France, such equipment can be driven from the age of 14 with a moped license), and 80 km/h for the L7e class version, which requires an adult category B license to drive.
From the outside in front, La Bagnole is reminiscent of the classic Willys of the 40s, but very conventional, so it is unlikely that Stellantis (the successor of the Willys brand) will have any claims. The salon is nowhere more primitive: on the wooden front panel there is a small electronic instrument panel and a pair of toggle switches that control the modes of the power plant and recuperation.
Windshield with wipers is optional.
Another interesting option is a clunker storage box, stylized as a box from a toy car: this box contains solar panels that recharge the La Bagnole battery during daylight hours.
Series production of La Bagnole will start at the company's own factory in the east of France next January, when the first copies will be shipped to customers. The minimum price is 9990 euros.
SUV France electric car novelties Kilow
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.. 11463 26 thirty 08/10/2022
Author: Evgeny Balabas
Repairing a tire with a tourniquet is akin to a game of truth or dare. Pravda speaks of the unreliability and sometimes even the danger of do-it-yourself express wheel repairs. Well, "action" allows you to take risks in order to achieve the desired result. What to choose?
The technology of tubeless tyre's flagellum repair itself is very old. She was known abroad, and even in the USSR almost half a century ago.
However, it spread massively (namely massively) among Russian car owners and hit the shelves of car dealerships only in the mid-2000s. Nevertheless, not all drivers are personally familiar with it even to this day, after a decade and a half. Many of those who are familiar theoretically have never put it into practice. And a huge number of drivers, having seen enough videos on the Internet, are afraid to use it ... Let's try once again to return to this seemingly repeatedly chewed story and dot the i's on the issue of flagellar repair. We have already described the process itself in the material on how to repair tires, so let's move on to common myths and useful tips.
Myth one
Installing a harness permanently damages the wheel
A powerful misconception, widely disseminated. Its proponents claim that the helical awl to prepare the hole "breaks the cords, thereby creating a weakened zone in the tire."
This legend is refuted quite simply. Since it is opposed to “correct repair” in the form of installing a “mushroom” with wheel disassembly and subsequent balancing, one should refer to the documents of companies that produce “mushrooms” and the regulations for their use.
In these documents, you can find out that the processing of the hole and thus the spiral awl (which is used as an indicator of the angle of the puncture channel with respect to the plane of the tire surface, which is important when installing the "fungus"), and even with a drill-cutter installed in the spindle of a low-speed pneumatic - or electric drills - these are frequent steps in the installation process of the "fungus"! That is, the same measures take place as during the installation of the flagellum, and often even more aggressive! This happens because the tire does not experience critical damage from the preparation of the hole by probing and reaming it, and the cord is either not damaged at all, or it is damaged negligibly little, which is covered by the safety margin of the tire. Yes, it is possible, on wheels with maximum speed indexes (which are operated at such speeds), and for cars operated in really sporty conditions in track conditions, even such minor changes in the structure of the tire make a difference.
But for the majority of ordinary car owners, the conditional harm from a quick repair with a flagellum is no higher than the harm from a more complex and expensive repair with a “fungus” with wheel parsing.
Myth 2
Flagella are installed only with glue
The need to use special glue (also called “activator glue”) when using the flagella repair method is a question on which many copies have been broken on the Internet, and a final answer has not been found ... The misunderstanding is mainly generated by the fact that both repair kits are sold, which are completed with a tube of glue, and kits without glue. Accordingly, in the instructions for the first, there is a clause on the use of glue, while the second does not. This could be attributed to different compositions of flagella, but the flagella are the same, the simplest butyl rubber ones.
In fact, the process of sealing a puncture with a butyl rubber band does not require glue for the so-called activation.
The main role of glue here is not sealing, but lubricating. In the case of tires with high rigidity or a large thickness of the rubber-cord layer, even the strength of an adult male is often not enough to push the awl dry with a flagellum. The glue acts as a lubricant, and the flagellum enters the hole relatively easily.
In other words, the repair with flagella in the absence of glue is an absolutely working scheme. The main thing is to have enough hand strength - for summer tires with an elastic compound and for almost all winter tires, there is usually enough strength. If the flagellum does not enter, although you lean on the awl handle with all your strength and mass, lubrication is necessary.
Myth 3
Flagella - a temporary solution
Tire repair flagella are produced by countless rootless Asian manufacturers. But in their instructions you will not find a word that after you got home on a wheel plugged with a flagellum, you need to go to a tire shop to seal the puncture in a full-fledged way - from the inside, “fungus”, with a complete analysis of the wheel.
But in the recommendations of major international brands that produce consumables for tire service, this can be surprisingly found. Actually, this information, pilfered over the Web, served as the source of the myth about the unreliability and temporary essence of flagellar repair.
This myth has no absolute technical justification. Of course, a full-fledged mushroom repair guarantees a more stable result, but the flagellar method is also reliable enough that the wheel can last for years. The strength of such a patch does not degrade over time. And the cautious recommendation of large manufacturers of tire repair materials is quite understandable: firstly, they are used to reinsuring themselves with or without reason, and secondly, they are interested in stimulating demand for the entire range of their products. According to the plan of their marketers, the car owner who punctured the wheel will first use the flagellum in the field, and then, returning to civilization, will pay for work and consumables at the tire fitting.
How to improve the DIY flagellar repair kit?
The classic field tire repair kit includes two awls with T-handles (preparatory spiral + working with an eye), as well as a “clip” of 5-10 flagella, protected during storage by plates stuck to them on both sides rigid polyethylene. However, even with such a set, you can suddenly find yourself in front of an unpleasant fact: the wheel cannot be repaired, even if you do it not for the first time and have the skills ... To make the set fully functional, you can slightly supplement and improve it.
First and most important: Seal the flagella with tape during storage. After about a year of storage in the trunk, the flagella lose their elasticity of the upper layer and, being installed in accordance with all the rules, poison the air. You need to store them by pasting them with ordinary tape on four sides of the standard protective film to isolate from the air. And even despite this, it’s not bad to refresh a set of flagella once a year, since they are not too expensive.
Second: put a half liter PET bottle and an additional stopper with a small hole into the set. Pour antifreeze windshield washer fluid into a bottle and add half a teaspoon of dishwashing detergent. This "device" will allow you to find the place of air leakage through the soap suds, if the puncture is not detected by the naked eye. By shaking the bottle and screwing a cork with a hole on it, you can pour soapy liquid over the surface of the tire in search of bubbles. We use anti-freeze instead of water so that the solution retains its consistency in the cold.
Third. "Activator Glue", which was discussed above, is sometimes highly desirable - albeit not as an adhesive, but, as mentioned above, as a kind of lubricant. But even if it is present, an unpleasant surprise is not ruled out - it can dry out or leak out. If you do not have an "activator glue" or you are not sure of its condition, add a miniature container of gasoline to the kit, which can be used to moisten the flagellum if necessary.
Fourth. If you don't carry a utility tool chest with you, add small side cutters or a mini multi-tool with built-in pliers to your repair kit. Such a tool is necessary to extract from the puncture site what caused it.
Fifth. Add a small utility knife (a 9 mm narrow blade is enough) to cut off the ends of the flagellum after it has been inserted into the bar.
This “complemented and improved” set allows you to conveniently repair a tire with a tourniquet at any time of the year without outside help and loss of time.
tires and wheels repair repair and maintenance
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