What is the thread size on a tire valve stem

HALTEC Standard Bore Valve Core: 0.206"-36 Thread Size, For Cars/Trucks and Busses Tire Valves, 100 PK - 33W496|A-100-VC-1


  • Item # 33W496
  • Mfr. Model # A-100-VC-1
  • UNSPSC # 25171905
  • Catalog Page # 949 949

Country of Origin China. Country of Origin is subject to change.

Heat-Resistant Core can be used in most cars, trucks, and buses that have a standard bore.

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  • Item # 33W496
  • Mfr. Model # A-100-VC-1
  • UNSPSC # 25171905
  • Catalog Page # 949 949

Country of Origin China. Country of Origin is subject to change.

Heat-Resistant Core can be used in most cars, trucks, and buses that have a standard bore.

Alloy Coated Thread Aluminum Red Chrome Tire Valve Stem Caps (Pack of 4) : Automotive

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  • Alloy Coated Thread - 2

  • Hexagon Style - 4

  • Alloy Coated Thread

  • Bullet Style

  • Granade Polished

  • Hexagon Style

  • Impaler Spike Style

  • Piston Style

  • Hexagon Style - 2

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  • Hexagon Style - 3

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  • Meshed Style

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Color Red
Material Aluminum
Brand Auto Dynasty
Fit Type Universal Fit
Vehicle Service Type Passenger Car, Truck

  • ▶️ Anodized & Powder-Coated Finish For Higher Strenth & Heavy-Duty Durability
  • ▶️ Made of High Grade & Light-Weight Aluminum Material
  • ▶️ Universal Fitting For Cars, Trucks, & Bikes
  • ▶️ Stylish Designed With Polished Chrome Finish Appearance

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Note: Products with electrical plugs are designed for use in the US. Outlets and voltage differ internationally and this product may require an adapter or converter for use in your destination. Please check compatibility before purchasing.

Valve for tubeless car tires, how to remove from the nipple

For the past two decades, tire manufacturers have exclusively used the tubeless design of their products, because, as practice has shown, if the tube on the wheels is damaged, when the tire beads do not fit too tightly to the disk, they almost instantly blown away, often with rubber rupture.

In the case of tubeless tires, the deflation of the wheel occurs evenly, which almost completely eliminates the instant loss of vehicle stability on the road. Of course, the valve for tubeless tires has a structure different from its outdated predecessors.

Wheel valve


  • How a tubeless tire valve works
  • How to choose the right valve
  • When to replace a valve
  • Tips for replacing a valve

How a tubeless tire valve works 9002 pumped through the nipple is evenly distributed between the inner side of the tire and the rim of the rim, that is, only the entire wheel assembly can be inflated.

At the same time, the valves located on the inner side of the rim are of several types.

The main difference lies in the appearance of the valves, which are of three types:

  • Rubber - a stainless steel bushing is securely soldered into an elastic polymer body, in which the stem, spring, valve and spool are located, which are a collapsible nipple design for tubeless tires. The head of the device with an external thread protrudes from the rubber, and a polymer cap is screwed onto it.
  • Rubber-metal - the base of the bushing is made of metal, and a thin steel ring is put on it to securely fix the valve to the rim of the rim.
  • Metal - there are no rubber parts, and only a metal threaded element sticks out of the rim, inside of which the same nipple is hidden. As a rule, with this design, a clamping nut is also installed on the wheel valve.

All standard valves have a uniform length, which varies depending on the wheel size and vehicle class, and the dimensions of the products are 33. 0, 42.5, 48.5 or 60.5 mm, which corresponds to a certain serial number on the surface of the product. Other lengths are available either with a handicraft version of the valve, or in exclusive cars.

The last difference between tubeless valves is the diameter of the hole provided by the manufacturer to install this product and securely fix it. The diameter of this hole is 11.3 mm or 15.7 mm, which also depends on the dimension of the wheel and vehicle.

Rubber-metal valve


The valve is not of any particular value and in case of the slightest damage, in order to prevent loss of pressure in the wheel during the operation of the car, it is simply replaced by any tire fitting master.

How to choose the right valve

In the life of car enthusiasts, there are situations when they need to purchase a valve for their wheel on their own. In order to make the right choice and the product fit and function normally, the owner of a car needs to know some technological subtleties:

  • cap protecting the thread of the nipple nipple.
  • Rubber nipple assembly with valve is used in similar weather conditions, since the product cannot normally tolerate too high and low temperatures. Thus, if frosts rage in the region of a motorist or, conversely, in summer the air temperature exceeds 40 degrees, he should consider only metal products.
  • Rubber products are not designed for increased tire pressure, the maximum limit they can withstand is 4.5 bar. If a car enthusiast owns a minibus or a full-size SUV, then in any case, he only needs a metal car wheel valve.


To correctly select a valve for a wheel, the driver also needs to know all the geometric characteristics of the product that has become unusable: the length of the protruding part and the diameter of the hole in the rim of the rim, because any other dimension may simply not be suitable.

Steel valve

When the valve needs to be replaced

Given that the valve on the wheel disc is considered a consumable item, it changes quite often, and when the first signs of wear appear, the old product must be immediately disposed of and a new nipple installed in its place. To understand exactly when its service life has expired, the owner of the car must pay attention to the characteristic features.

If the driver prefers dynamic and aggressive driving, he needs to check the tire pressure at least once a week and, if he finds the slightest sign of its loss, go to the tire shop, where an experienced master, not finding a hole in the wheel, will surely say that you need to change the car valve .

If a motorist loaded the car at least once with an unintended load, the valve may not withstand, the rubber valve in the nipple will break, and the air will start to come out, which also indicates the need to update the product.

Driving in mud or deep snow may damage the protruding part of the product in a purely mechanical way, which will be visible to the naked eye. Of course, in this case, the operation of a wheel with such a nipple is unacceptable.

The last thing that can damage a valve on a wheel is the aggressive environment. Active ultraviolet rays, frequent sudden temperature changes, the presence of salt-based reagents in the winter, and other factors contribute to the destruction of polymer parts and corrosion of the metal components of the product, after which the valve becomes unusable.

Thus, when the car has been operated without complaints for more than 5 years, then the nipple must be changed along with the tires, at least for preventive purposes.


Many vehicle owners turn to tire fitting too late, when not only a relatively cheap wheel valve, but also “eaten” rubber, and sometimes the entire wheel assembly can be replaced.

Checking the operation of the valve

Recommendations for replacing the valve

Replacing the entire valve on tubeless tires as an assembly is impossible without removing the rubber from the wheel, and this procedure is performed exclusively within the walls of the service station, since a private person almost never has professional equipment to carry out this work . However, when extreme conditions oblige the driver to do the whole process himself, he should be guided by the following step-by-step instructions:

  • Take the jack from the trunk, assemble it, place it under the car body and hang it above the ground so that the wheel rotates freely.
  • All nuts are carefully unscrewed to the end, after which the wheel is completely removed from the hub.
  • Remove the cap from the valve, press the nipple spool and hold it until all the air comes out.
  • The wheel is disassembled using a crowbar or a long screwdriver, when the driver pry its edges along the circumference of the disc. Care must be taken here, as there is a risk of damage to the metal or rubber components of the disc and tire with the sharp ends of improvised means.
  • With the help of pliers, the old valve is pulled out, and if there are stuck pieces of rubber on the surface of the rim, they must be carefully removed with a knife with a good sharpened blade.
  • Take a new product and treat it with lubricant to improve glide.
  • The tire valve is inserted exclusively from the inside of the rim, and from the opposite end it is securely fixed to it using the same pliers.
  • The tire is put back on the rim, the wheel is inflated to the pressure required for this car model using a pump with a special barometric sensor, and is subsequently attached to the hub studs with nuts. It is important here not to tighten them to the end, since the car may fall off the jack from a great effort.
  • The jack is released and the car is gently lowered to the ground, and then with great force all the nuts must be tightened without missing any of them.
  • Valve replacement


    To prevent a new valve from being damaged again, the car must be operated as gently as possible, exposed to aggressive external influences as little as possible, and the owner must not overload it. However, as a rule, it is not possible to follow all the rules in life, and sooner or later the motorist will have to repeat this procedure and, at the slightest sign of a defect, he will be forced to supply a new product.

    Replacing a nipple is a rather responsible procedure that can not only harm the rim and tire, but in the end turn out to be ineffective, because, without knowing all the intricacies of the procedure, a motorist can install the product with a warp, press it against the rim not tightly enough, or make other mistakes.

    Thus, in order to achieve the required quality and durability in the use of the product, you should still contact tire fitting professionals, as they not only have extensive experience in solving these problems, but also have the necessary equipment, which ultimately guarantees quality and saves the owner of the car from unnecessary expenses.

    How do I repair a stripped internal thread?

    No one is immune from the fact that during car repairs or in other working situations, damage to the threaded connection may occur. How to restore the functionality of a seemingly failed thread?

    Many craftsmen use the traditional method, the essence of which is to drill a hole with a larger diameter drill and tap a new thread with a tap. However, after such a repair, it will be necessary to use a mating element (bolt, stud, candle) of a larger diameter, which is not always possible. This method is also not suitable if the supply of the “body” for reaming is insufficient.

    How to repair a thread while maintaining its original diameter?

    At present, a simple and reliable method of thread restoration has been found, which has been used all over the world for quite a long time. In our country, unfortunately, it is slowly gaining popularity, both due to our ignorance, and due to the inability to purchase special spring inserts and auxiliary installation tools in stores.

    Thread Repair Tool Kit

    Many well-known manufacturers are engaged in the development and manufacture of inserts. Products from different companies may vary slightly in name (screws, fittings), design and material, but the principle of operation and installation technology is the same for everyone. On sale you can find not only sets of screw drivers of various lengths, diameters and thread pitches, but also entire sets for thread restoration, which, in addition to inserts, include drills, taps, an installation tool and a mandrel for breaking off the mounting leash. Such solutions are offered by the German manufacturer of metal-cutting tools Volkel and the Russian Delo Tekhnika. Some brands call this technology and tool a “system”, for example:

    • V-coil system
    • Recoil system
    • HeliCoil system

    How it works?

    1. Threaded hole repair wire inserts are helically coiled stainless steel wire with a diamond shaped cross section. The diamond shaped wire profile allows the outside of the turns to screw into the female threads in the housing during installation. On the inside of the futor, the threads form a new standard 60° thread. The free outer diameter of the bushing is larger than the receiving thread, so the coils of the helix are compressed when it is screwed into the body. Like a spring, the compressed coils try to expand relative to the walls of the threaded hole in the body. The resulting tightness at the seat helps hold the installed liner and prevents it from being unscrewed.
    2. The inserts are provided with a driving tongue which is used to screw them into the prepared receiving thread. A special installation tool grabs it and uses it as a drive. After installation, the leash will not be needed and easily breaks off.
    3. A small notch is made at the base of the tongue, which slightly reduces the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wire. When you need to remove the tongue, the notch will help you easily break it off in this place.

    Spring insert installation process:

    Damaged threads are repaired in four easy steps.

    Step 1: Drill the old thread using the drill size recommended on the thread repair kit package. The tap shank also shows the recommended tapping drill size. Don't forget to clean the hole from metal particles.

    Step 2. In the drilled hole, cut the thread with a special wire insert tap, which has some differences from the standard tap and is indicated by the letters STI (HeliCoil system).

    Step 3 Install the threaded insert using the installation tool.

    For threads with coarse (regular) pitch:

    • Slide the spiral insert onto the assembly tool.
    • Rotate the insert until its driver fits into the groove at the end of the insertion tool's shaft.
    • Screw the repair insert into the threaded hole using the handle of the rotary installation tool.
    • Once the insert has been set to the desired depth, unscrew the setting spindle.

    Fine thread:
    • Use the assembly tool with the preload (compression) chuck included in the fine thread repair kit.
    • Place the spiral bushing in the preload chuck.
    • Thread the spindle of the setting tool through the helix until the driver tongue engages in its groove.
    • Turn the tool to wind the insert around the threaded end of the pre-spool body.
    • With one hand, hold the housing at right angles to the surface of the workpiece over the threaded hole. Rotate the setting tool to install the insert through the pre-spool body into the threaded hole in the workpiece. After installation, make sure that the pre-spool body can move smoothly, which means that the coils of the helix are aligned with the threads in the workpiece.
    • Once the repair insert has been set to the correct depth, unscrew the setting tool.

    Mounting tool for installing the screw driver

    Screwing in the futorka

    Thread Repair Tip:

    One of the reasons why this threading technology does not work is because the threaded insert is not properly seated.

    The main rule of thumb is that the top of the wire insert should be 1/4 to 1/2 of the thread pitch below the surface of the workpiece. One easy way to determine the installation depth is detailed below.

    Before you begin the installation process, take a close look at the entry threads cut with the STI tap into the hole. Pay attention to the place where the thread begins to enter the hole.

    Make a small temporary reference mark on the body surface 3/4 of a turn away from where the thread enters the hole. This mark will be used to determine the insertion depth of the screw.

    Install the threaded insert flush with the housing surface and align its end with the reference mark. Then turn it another 1/4 turn to plunge 1/4 step (0.25 P) below the body surface.

    If a deeper fit is required, turn the setting tool an additional 1/4 turn.

    Step 4: Remove the leash tab

    • Use a barb or just a piece of round rod that matches the diameter of the threaded hole.
    • Place the end of the tool against the tongue and hold it straight into the hole.
    • Hit the tool shank with a hammer. The leash should break at the incision, which is designed for this purpose. On inserts of large diameter (from M14), it is sometimes easier to break it off with long nose pliers in an up and down motion.
    • Remove the broken tab from the hole before assembling the threaded connection.


    Why does this technology require a special STI tap? What is an STI tap? Can a standard tap be used instead?

    STI Tap Marking

    The repaired female thread is designed for standard size fasteners. After installing the spring insert, its turns are installed with the same pitch as the thread of the fastener for which the threaded hole is intended.

    The entry threads for threaded inserts are formed with special taps (also known as STI) designed for use with these repair systems.

    Threaded insert taps differ in size from standard screw taps. But they are marked according to the final result, which will be obtained after installing the liner.

    Let's look at the difference between STI and a standard tap with a specific example:

    The standard tap used to thread 1/2"NF fasteners has a 0.500" base diameter in 20 TPI pitches. The corresponding STI tap has the same 20 TPI pitch but a slightly larger base diameter, in this example it is is 0.568 inches.

    Is there any way to more securely lock the insert onto the thread, rather than relying solely on an interference fit to hold it in the threaded hole?

    To securely fix the insert in the part body, it is recommended to use additional fixing methods:

    Chemical lock. Apply a thin layer of threadlocker to the outside of the threads of the insert before screwing it into the hole. Do not apply too much of this compound, and after installation, be sure to wipe the resulting internal thread so that the fasteners screwed into it do not stick.

    Mechanical stop. Using a punch and hammer, lightly flare one thread of the body where the threaded end of the installed nut is located. The purpose of this method is to slightly deform or compress the body threads to make it difficult to unscrew the insert when removing the fastener.

    Size range:

    Spring inserts are available in inch and metric sizes. According to published data, inserts are available for screw sizes from #2 to 1 1/2" and M3 to M42.

    Their length is indicated by 1d, 1.5d, 2d, etc., where d is the diameter of the spiral, and this is the length in the mounted state and without the installation tongue (they are shorter in the free state). For example, for an M6, 2d futor, the length will be two diameters, that is, 12 mm.

    Thread types:

    Repair sleeves are available in a variety of thread types and pitch configurations, including UNC, UNF, metric coarse and fine threads, UNEF, UNS, and pipe threads.

    What metal are the inserts made of?

    For the manufacture of threaded inserts, especially strong high-quality steel is used, mainly stainless steel with a hardness of 425 - 550 HV (according to Vickers) grades A2 and A4. For special purposes, manufacturers produce them in materials such as Nitronic 60, Inconel X heat-resistant alloy, titanium and phosphor bronze.

    Benefits of using repair inserts:

    • This method makes it possible to form a thread that is as strong and reliable as the original one, and in cases with low-strength metals, it increases the load-bearing capacity of the thread.
    • The strong steel of which the screws are made reduces the risk of rapid wear of the threaded surface when fastening and unscrewing fasteners frequently.
    • The thread insert has a tight fit with no gaps in the machined thread, eliminating the risk of loosening under dynamic loads or when the screw is loosened.
    • Preloaded spring-loaded bushing stays in place without additional adhesive fixing and distributes the force from the bolt evenly along the length of the hole.
    • The described system makes it possible to create a reliable steel thread in soft materials (wood, plastic), as well as to make a threaded connection in fragile and thin-walled parts.
    • With the help of thread inserts, you can easily change from one type of thread to another, for example: from left to right, from metric to inch, from fine to coarse and vice versa.

    The use of spring inserts opens up new possibilities for design, gives freedom in choosing the material and size of fasteners. The ability to quickly repair a threaded hole eliminates the need to replace an expensive part. If necessary, repair inserts can be dismantled using all the same tools included in the "system".

    Video demonstration of installation of


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