Published on: Monday, 17th February 2020 | Author: Bradley Jando
Slow punctures are common, but they can also be very difficult to detect. This means that many of us could be driving around with a gradually deflating tyre for weeks or even months, without having any idea there’s a problem.
Let’s take a look at how slow punctures are caused, how to identify them and crucially, how to fix them.
A slow puncture is a tiny hole in a vehicle’s tyre, causing air to escape very gradually. It is unlike other larger punctures, which make themselves known almost immediately. If you suffer an ordinary puncture, you’ll notice the tyre deflating quite quickly. You may even be able to hear a gentle hissing sound coming from the tyre if you listen very carefully.
Both types of puncture can happen without the driver’s knowledge. You may only spot a change in tyre pressure when you get home, or the next time you try to drive the car. But with slow punctures, it can take days or even weeks for deflation of the tyre to become obvious.
Slow punctures are usually caused by driving over something sharp, such as a nail, screw or debris in the road. You can also get one by hitting a particularly nasty pothole or a kerb, which causes damage to the wheel rim or the sidewall within the tyre.
A less common cause of slow punctures is a fault with the tyre valve. If the cap doesn’t seal the valve tightly enough, or the valve dust cap is missing, the tyre can start to lose air. Dust and grit could even get into the valve with the same result.
Finally, slow punctures can sometimes be caused by damaged wheel rims, particularly on older cards with steel rims where there’s a gradual buildup of rust.
While you may not notice a slow puncture at first, there are certain warning signs to watch out for when you’re on the road.
For example:
It is particularly likely to happen when driving on the motorway or at high speed.As well as keeping a close eye out for warning signs of a puncture while driving, you should also do some basic checks before you get in the car. A visual check of your tyres could help you to spot an embedded object, as well as tyres looking a little more deflated than usual. You can also get yourself a tyre pressure gauge, a handy gadget that allows you to accurately check whether your tyres are actually losing pressure.
Slow punctures should always be looked at by an experienced, qualified technician as soon as they are detected. It may seem like a small issue, but if ignored it can turn into a major problem.
Neglected slow punctures can lead to larger leaks or tears, which can negatively impact safety and handling on the road. Your tyres are your vehicle’s only contact with the road, so they need to have good grip and performance.
Crucially, they need to be in great condition so that you can maintain full control of the vehicle while driving.
If you ignore a slow puncture, the worst case scenario is a tyre blowout or even an accident. So, as soon as you spot it, get it sorted.
In many cases, slow punctures can be repaired. It largely depends on what’s causing the problem. If there’s a nail or piece of embedded debris in the tread of the tyre, an experienced technician can simply fit a rubber plug to repair the hole.
However, such an easy fix may not be possible for high performance tyres. This is because these tyres are designed to withstand higher stresses than ordinary tyres, so they can’t have any vulnerabilities.
If your slow puncture has been caused by damage to the tyre sidewall, a dent to the rim or a corroded wheel, a repair may not be possible. In this case, a replacement tyre or other key component may be needed. Your repair centre will advise you on the best way to get your wheel and tyre back to full working order.
You may be tempted to repair slow punctures yourself, using a home DIY repair kit. This can do the job on a temporary basis until you can get professional assistance, but it isn’t recommended as a long-term fix for a slow puncture. The substances used in these kits won’t last, so you’ll eventually need to get the tyre fixed anyway.
If in doubt, always call in a professional. There could still be something embedded in the tyre, or a more serious issue (i.e. damage to the tyre sidewall) you aren’t able to detect. It’s not safe to drive on damaged tyres, and it’s just not worth taking the risk.
Tags : Advice Driving Tips
Tips & advice
by: Dean Gibson
22 Apr 2021
22 Apr 2021
Tyres are a very important part of your car – after all, they’re the only components that remain in contact with the road surface.
Because they’re your link between the car and the tarmac, it’s crucial that you keep on top of the tyres, and make sure they’re in a safe and roadworthy condition.
It’s definitely worth knowing what to look out for if you have a slow puncture. As its name suggests, a slow puncture means your car’s tyre gradually loses pressure over time, which means you could end up driving lots of miles before you notice there’s a problem.
You also run a higher chance of having a serious accident later down the line if you don’t realise one of your car’s tyres has an air leak. Drive too long with a slow puncture, and you could be on the receiving end of a major tyre failure that can put the safety of yourself, your passengers and other road users at risk.
There are early warning signs that can alert you to a slow puncture problem. While you’re driving your car, it may start drifting to the left or right sides of the road as the tyre deflates, and you may also hear a regular ticking-style noise if the slow puncture is caused by a piece of debris pierced and stuck in the tyre.
Many cars nowadays also now come with tyre pressure monitoring sensors, which can alert you with warning prompts on the dashboard if the system detects a loss of tyre pressure – though, as not all cars are fitted with this tech, it’s best to not rely on this alone to warn you of a slow puncture problem.
If you catch a slow puncture early on, it may be possible to carefully drive the car for a short distance, as long as there’s still enough air in the tyre to keep it sufficiently inflated. However, because more air will leak out the more you drive the car, you should only do this if the journey is absolutely necessary. Regardless of how bad the puncture is, you should have the faulty tyre repaired or replaced as soon as possible.
So what are the signs of a slow puncture? Well, the Highway Code tells drivers to give their car a visual inspection before driving off, and hopefully, that will help you spot a slow puncture before it turns into something worse.
If a tyre looks a little out of shape when compared with the other tyres on the car, that could be a sign of a flat or a partial deflation.
Another visual clue could be odd wear to the sidewall. If a tyre is dirty and has low pressure, then the sidewall will be in contact with the tarmac, which will 'scrub' the tyre clean, giving a better visual clue to a slow puncture by creating a black sidewall that you can pick out clearly through the dirt.
Of course, the other giveaway would be a piece of debris stuck in the tyre itself. We're not saying you should get on all fours to give the rubber a proper inspection, but is there a screw or a nail that's obviously embedded in the tread or the external sidewall? If it's in the tread, it should be easy to spot, as the head will be polished clean if it's in contact with the road when you drive.
Every car owner should at least have a tyre pressure gauge that allows them to check their tyre pressures accurately. Our tests have shown which ones are the best, and if you buy a foot pump or automatic tyre inflator, then you should be able to easily see if a tyre is losing pressure.
• Complete tyre care guide
When you're driving, there will be audible clues to a slow puncture. It could be that a piece of debris in the tyre 'click-clicks' on the road for every revolution of the wheel. Or there may be additional road noise coming from a tyre that has less air pressure in it - if you think something isn't right, turn off the radio and shut the windows so you can hear things properly and identify if you have a slow puncture.
Modern cars are now required by law to have tyre pressure monitors fitted as standard. These use sensors in the wheel that detect a loss of pressure. As soon as one tyre drops a couple of pounds of pressure in comparison to the other four tyres, a warning will flash up on the dashboard to alert the driver.
If you do have a slow puncture, it's best to see if a repair is possible from your local garage, tyre fitter or a big chain like Halfords or Kwik Fit, and get it fixed as soon as possible.
Driving on a slow puncture for any longer than necessary is dangerous because that slow puncture is more likely to become a fully flat tyre the longer you keep using it.
The usual culprit of a slow puncture will be debris that has pierced the rubber. If it's a nail or screw that has gone through the tread of the tyre (the flat part of the tyre that is in contact with the road), then it will be possible to repair the tyre with a rubber plug that a repair shop can fit. However, if the damage has happened to a high-performance tyre a repair of this type may not be possible, as some tyre speed ratings are not recommended for repair due to the higher stresses put upon them.
If the damage is to the sidewall of the tyre, then it cannot be repaired regardless of the tyre type. This damage will be to the main structure of the tyre that supports the tread, so it will weaken the tyre, which will affect its ability to perform properly.
You may be tempted to do a home repair with a puncture repair kit, which you will find in cars where a spare wheel is an optional extra.
However, the 'gunk' that's used to seal the hole is only a temporary fix until the tyre can be properly repaired, so you'll end up having to get the tyre fixed anyway.
Another potential cause of a slow puncture is a corroded wheel. If a steel wheel is rusty, it might cause gaps where the parts of the wheel are welded together. On alloy wheels, corrosion is very different. If it's very severe, it could cause the metal in the wheel to become porous, allowing the air to slowly seep through the metal. That's an extreme case, but it's also common with cars featuring magnesium alloy wheels, as magnesium is naturally porous.
• Best tyre tread depth and pressure gauges
You could also suffer a slow loss of air if the wheel is kerbed or damaged in some other way. If the rim has a dent in it, that might be enough for air to seep out. Whether a wheel is damaged or corroded, you could seek advice from a wheel refurbishment company on whether a repair is viable, or replacement is the only solution.
In any case, the best advice is to stay on the lookout for slow punctures and other damage by checking your car tyres on a regular basis. If you detect a slow puncture, don’t ignore it as you’ll only be increasing the chance of a bigger problem developing at some point in the future. Get the tyre seen by professionals and either repaired or replaced as soon as possible.
Think you have a slow puncture? Take a read of our test to find the best tyres to help find a replacement...
Wheels that contain an air chamber have one indisputable advantage - the possibility of self-repair, without the need to involve specialists. Therefore, this type of wheel is popular with those car owners who, for one reason or another, prefer to carry out tire fitting on their own.
It is generally accepted that a tubeless wheel cannot be repaired without the involvement of professionals. In fact, it is not.
It will not be difficult to repair such a wheel on your own even in field conditions. To do this, you must have on hand special harnesses and patches. According to the assurances of the sellers of such materials, very often do-it-yourself repairs are much better than through specialists in their field. Very often, when repairing wheels, tire fitting specialists use low-quality materials, which significantly reduces the quality of the repair. In this publication, we will talk about how tubeless tires are repaired on their own.
Such a phenomenon as tube tire puncture is associated with damage to the tube itself, which leads to both a loss of pressure in the wheel and more serious consequences. The air that fills the space between the tube and the tire will begin to penetrate through the gaps formed between the rim and the tire itself. In this case, the chamber wheel will go down much faster, which will lead to the repair (replacement) of the chamber with mandatory disassembly.
The most significant disadvantages of a tubed wheel, in comparison with tubeless analogues, include a significantly higher probability of puncturing the chamber from the inside due to rupture or wear of the cord.
In the event of a puncture on a tubeless wheel , the air will only escape through the puncture hole. A certain obstacle to the rapid exit of air creates an object through which a puncture occurred. As a rule, a foreign object gets stuck in the tire. Due to the slow decrease in pressure in a tubeless wheel, it is considered safer. If there is a puncture on a tubeless wheel, the air is etched much more slowly, periodically pumping up the wheel, you can easily get to the place of repair. It should be noted that the repair of tubeless tires is a less time-consuming process than tires with a tube.
You can repair a tubeless wheel using one of two methods:
• In the first case, you can use car chemicals.
• In the second case, you can use special harness patches.
In the first case, the wheel undergoes a temporary restoration - a maximum of a hundred kilometers. After that, however, you will have to resort to a major overhaul of the wheel. Before using the sealant, you must carefully read the instructions attached to it. It is not worth getting rid of the stuck object, due to which the puncture occurred - it is better to leave it in place. A bottle of sealant must be attached to the wheel valve, and then all its contents must be pumped inside. The hole will be filled with sealant and air leakage will stop.
It is worth noting that the repair of a tubeless tire made in this way and on your own will lead to an imbalance of the wheel, so you need to choose a safe speed mode, you should not set a record.
Today there are three types of sealants: liquid, helium and aerosol. There are plenty of brands of such a product, so everyone can choose the product, the composition of which meets his requirements in terms of price and quality.
Using an aerosol can of sealant, you can inflate the wheel to the desired condition, in which you can continue on your way. Attach a can of sealant to the wheel and press the valve. Such a procedure will not take much time and effort, even if you did not have a spare wheel, a jack, or a pump with you. After inflating the wheel to 1 atm., the sealant will immediately close the hole formed in the tubeless tire. After a few minutes of waiting, you can continue driving. It should be recalled that such a measure is temporary and is used only in order to safely reach the repair site.
The main disadvantage of aerosol sealants is increased flammability and deterioration at low temperatures. In winter, you should not count on such sealants. It is better to have, just in case, a helium compound or special harnesses that are designed to repair tubeless tires.
Some are designed for temporary DIY repairs, while others are used for professional overhauls. The most affordable type of harness is made on a foam base from butyl.
They also include soft thin nylon threads.
Please note that this tourniquet is a temporary measure. When using it on the road, you do not need to disassemble and remove a punctured wheel. The presence of a special tool and glue-activator is also not required. After you have determined the place of the puncture, pull out the object from the tire that caused this puncture. A tourniquet must be placed in the hole in which the object was located using a thin screwdriver or an awl. After waiting a few minutes, you can pump up the wheel and continue driving. Air leakage is completely excluded.
The essence of such a repair is that porous and soft butyl acts as an adhesive, as well as an adhesive composition applied over it. If you move at a speed not exceeding 80 km / h, then after such a simple repair of a tubeless tire on your own, you can cover a distance of about 200 km. Such a guarantee is given by the manufacturers of this wonderful material. It should be noted that the same companies are engaged in the production of temporary and professional harnesses.
When buying repair materials, pay attention to the data sheet, which indicates whether these harnesses are intended for temporary or professional repairs.
Unfortunately, some tire shops use temporary repair harnesses instead of professional harnesses when repairing wheels. It is worth noting that for professional repairs, manufacturers produce more durable repair materials.
Not always a tire center, which is a model of professional repair, can provide a motorist with the necessary services of proper quality. But do not rush to get upset. Today, any motorist can carry out a quality repair of a tubeless wheel on their own.
First of all, you need to get a set of necessary tools:
• knife;
• pliers;
• twisted awl;
• hook-needle;
• simple awl.
In addition, you will need materials such as some professional-grade cords and a high quality activator adhesive.
It is worth noting that most manufacturers of repair materials produce ready-made sets of necessary materials and tools. The cost of such sets is not great. To carry out a quality professional repair, you will have to buy all the necessary elements one by one. It is better to purchase such goods in specialized stores. The price of such a set will be slightly higher than the price of the kit, but it all depends on the brand and manufacturer.
Professional harnesses also differ in quality and composition. Professional harnesses, made from raw rubber and coated with an adhesive layer, do not cost much more than temporary ones. It is worth noting that such harnesses are suitable for permanent use.
Rubber bands may only be inserted into the tread area of the wheel. To eliminate side cuts and punctures, large-sized damage, a rubber band is not suitable.
The most modern and durable material is nylon cord cord. Such harnesses can be used in the tread, in the side part and shoulder of the tire.
It must be taken into account that the use of professional materials entails strict adherence to a certain technology. But there is nothing difficult in this.
Pinpointing – It is not necessary to remove the wheel to do this. It is only necessary to mark the puncture site and only then remove the object that is the cause of the puncture.
Hole development – it is necessary to inflate the wheel to a pressure of one atmosphere, then apply a certain amount of activator glue to the twisted awl. Next, you need to insert the awl into the hole and turn it 4-5 times. Upon completion of the development of the puncture site, the twisted awl in the hole must be left. This is necessary to avoid air leakage and drying of the glue.
Installing the tourniquet - First, generously lubricate the needle awl and the tourniquet with activator adhesive. Now you have to remove the twisted awl from the hole as quickly as possible and install the tourniquet in the hole.
In order to install the tourniquet into the hole, it is necessary to evenly press on the handle of the needle awl. Now you can remove the handle and make sure the tightness of the bundle, after which, cut off the protruding ends of the bundle.
Vladimir Gavrilov
Estimated reading time: 3 minutes
854
Category: Auto Maintenance
Tire shops are not everywhere. If a wheel puncture occurs on a long journey, then the motorist is left alone with his problem. Well, when there is a full-fledged spare tire. However, there are situations when two wheels are damaged at the same time, and then you have to look for other ways to solve the problem. How to repair a damaged tire on your own to make it to the workshop?
The vast majority of passenger cars are now equipped with tubeless tires.
In some cases, they can be repaired without even removing them from the rim. To do this, you will need a motorist's kit, which includes sealant, gloves and a small puncture repair kit. You can buy it at any parts store. It is inexpensive and really helps out in difficult situations.
Before starting repairs, you will need to find the location of the damage. We hang the car on a jack, remove the wheel and pump the tire to working pressure with the help of a compressor, turn it off and listen. Where there is a hiss, and you need to look for a puncture.
Tire repair kits consist of a round file with a T-handle, an awl with a slotted eye at the end, sealant and a few flagella. First, the hole is cleaned and widened with a file at the puncture site. The main thing is to remove all torn pieces of rubber and make smooth edges. Then a rubber flagellum is inserted into a special mounting awl, lubricated with sealant and pushed into the machined hole. Next, the awl is removed, the tourniquet remains inside the tire, and the antennae are cut flush with the surface.
Then the wheel is pumped up, and you can hit the road. True, before that it makes sense to check the tightness of the resulting cork. To do this, moisten the repair site with water and carefully look for small bubbles. If such bubbles appear, it means that the flagellum does not fit tightly and you will have to pump up the tire from time to time to get to the destination. Well, there you can already visit the workshop.
If the repair kit is not in the car, then you can try to repair the puncture with a self-tapping screw. They usually lie along the sides of the roads. A self-tapping screw can be unscrewed from some abandoned barn, fence, or even from your own car. Many body panels are held on with screws with sharp legs. The self-tapping screw can be unscrewed from the fender liner or from the bumper mount. Then it is smeared with sealant and screwed into the tire hole. It turns out a miniature patch, which should be enough for several hours of driving to get to the village and make repairs.
The main thing - before repairing the tire, do not forget to remove the self-tapping screw and screw it back into its original place in the car.
If the self-tapping screw did not fit or it simply does not exist, then you can use another old-fashioned way, which involves using water as a patch. True, this will require not a compressor, but a cheap foot pump, which every motorist should have in the trunk. After all, the compressor can fail, especially if the cigarette lighter fuses blow.
We take a mechanical pump, unscrew the hose and pour water from the bottle inside. Water can also be sucked in by lowering the hose into the bottle. The pump turns into a kind of syringe. We take out the nipple, insert the hose and pump water directly into the wheel. This must be done until at least a liter of liquid is inside. Next, put the nipple in place and inflate the tire to the standard pressure. You can hit the road. When the wheel rotates, water is distributed inside the tire under the action of centrifugal forces and covers the puncture site with a temporary film that prevents air from bleeding out.
