Anyone new to ATVs will, at some point, wonder how fast they can actually go. It’s not likely that you will be riding at these speeds very often, but it’s just one of these things we just want to know out of pure curiosity.
Or, maybe you are in the process of buying a new four-wheeler and just want to make sure you won’t get disappointed by the performance of the bike size you are getting?
For most ATV models, you won’t get these numbers from the manufacturers themselves. So I did a little digging to find as good of estimates as possible.
Today’s most powerful sports and utility ATVs can reach top speeds of 80mph (128km/h). Moderate sized bikes averages at about 65 mph (104km/h). Youth ATVs have speed limiters so that the parent can decide exactly how fast it can go.
These are the top speeds of the fastest stock ATVs I could find within each cc engine size. My research included all of the major brands.
The chart above shows only the fastest of the fastest.
To better understand what top speed to expect when getting a specific engine size, I’ve calculated the average top speed regardless of what brand you are choosing. I compare each manufacturer’s fastest model within each engine size.
Note that many manufacturers have several models with the same engine size, but where the difference in top speed between the two can vary with as much as 5-10mph. In this comparison, I’ve picked only the fastest of the available models.
At this point, you may be eager to know what make and model achieves these speeds.
Here are a data sheet showing how fast each model goes, based on reported user experience. Most but not all models are available on the market today.
Click the image for a better view.For all practical purposes, as long as the bike does 50 MPH safely, you really do not need it to go any faster.
But if you decide to push it even further anyways, you will find that it’s neither comfortable, practical, or very safe. It also makes a severe impact on the fuel economy.
When you research different ATV models, you will notice that most manufacturers won’t state their machines top speed in their spec sheets (except with speed limited youth models to show how slow they can go).
And they have good reasons for not focusing on blazing top speeds.
ATVs are not designed very well to be used at high speeds. They are meant to be powerful at lower speeds and need big engines for this reason. But they are not meant to set any speed records.
The suspension is too soft, the tires are too aggressive, and the CVT transmission non-ideal for higher speeds. The relatively short wheelbase and spacing compared to a car do also negatively affect high-speed performance.
So the manufacturers do not want riders to be pushing to reach potential top speed on their machines, as it’s not what they are really designed for and could end in disaster.
Most manufacturers clearly give disclaimers similar to the one you find on Can-Am spec sheets: “Avoid excessive speed. ” They do so for a reason.
If you’re looking for speed, a motorcycle or a fast car is a much better option.
Racing quads are equipped with upgraded suspension, have a wide tire width, and are ridden by experienced riders.
These cannot be compared to your average stock utility or recreation bike.
Some sports models have better suspension from the factory, but it is still not a machine meant for chasing high speeds.
You will find different types of speed limiters installed on many of the ATVs on the market for various reasons. You’ll even find this on “unrestricted” top performance bikes like the Polaris Scrambler.
But the real purpose of why they are installed varies somewhat depending on what type of bike you are getting.
You’ll often find that it’s not actually the engine size (displacement) that’s the limiting factor of how fast the quad goes. There is usually plenty of power available for even higher speeds.
But the speed needs to be restricted at some point to protect those of us that don’t understand the extreme dangers involved with doing these speeds themselves. So they install limiters.
The same is true in most cars, motorcycles, and any other high performing machine.
Usually, they are set to a speed so high that it is not something one would ever notice for the average user. You will never be going this fast anyways.
But it helps to explain why there are noticeable variations in top speed on quads with identical engine size but from different manufacturers in some cases.
You will even find bikes with smaller engines that outrun the bigger ones. Often this is likely due to a limiter set at different maximum speeds.
I strongly advise against messing with the top speed limiter on these bikes. It is there for a good reason!
A mechanic speed limiter uses a mechanical barrier to prevent you from applying full throttle.
This can be in the form of an adjustable screw on the handlebar, plastic parts inside the carburetor, or shims limiting airflow in various places inside the engine. Other types exist as well.
Electronic limiters are typical on bikes with electronic fuel injection.
The fuel injection system gets notified to cut back on fuel as soon as the ATV reaches the set limit.
Speed limiters are installed on children’s and youth ATVs as a critical safety feature to protect beginners and inexperienced riders.
Some bikes come with adjustable limiters so that the parent can increase speed gradually as the riders riding skills and experience increase.
Most of the smaller sized ATVs are capable of speeds in the range of 30 mph with some light tuning, removing speed limiters, etc.
I’m not telling you this because I advise you to do so but so that you’ll understand why there are such significant variations in the top speed of the presumably identically sized smaller bikes. It is, in most cases, not due to huge variations in actual engine performance.
For older beginners, Can-Am includes a learning key that holds a code that electronically limits the bike’s speed. This is a great safety feature I hope more manufacturers will offer in future models.
When you install tracks on the quad, you give up a lot of the speed at the same time. As a general rule of thumb, you may expect the top speed to drop by about 50% due to the sprockets’ different output ratio.
Installing tracks will impact your top speed.Because of this, the internals of your bike needs to move twice as fast to maintain the same speed when running in the same gear and with the same RPMs.
It’s wise to keep this in mind when you’re chasing top speed with your new tracks. It put a lot of strain on your gearbox, diffs, and CV-joints.
If you, despite the warnings, still wish to increase your bike’s top speed, there are several ways you can go about it. Disclaimer! All modifications are done at your own risk! I do not recommend any of them.
Bigger tires have a larger circumstance, which means the tire travels farther pr. revolution. This will effectively increase the top speed of your bike.
Remember that you also need to install a clutch kit if you increase tire diameter by more than a couple of inches. If you don’t, you will lose a lot of power and may face belt slipping issues and burning belts.
If your bike has a gearbox with sprockets and chains, you can change one of the sprockets to increase your top speed. However, this is actually most commonly done to reduce top speed and simultaneously improve acceleration by installing a smaller sprocket.
By installing a racing clutch, you can choose one that uses different dimensions of clutch sheaves, altering the bike’s top speed according to your needs.
I won’t go into the details on how to increase the power output of your bike’s engine, as this subject deserves a post of its own. But doing so will also give you an improvement of top speed.
This one is quite obvious, but removing it will improve your top speed if your bike has any speed limiter installed.
Be aware you may be voiding your warranty and breaking a few laws if you decide to go this route.
Mechanical speed limiters are the easiest to remove as they usually require you to slightly disassemble and remove the part that is limiting your throttle.
However, if your bike has an electronic speed limiter, you may need reprogramming of the bike to disable the limiter. Some dealers do this for you; others don’t.
For my Polaris Sportsman XP 1000, there wasn’t any software available to remove its top speed limiter of 60km/h (37,3 mph). This particular bike is sold as a tractor required by law (Norway) not to go any faster than this.
If your bike has an open sprocket and chain, altering top speed is easy. Increasing the size of the front sprocket (clutch) and reducing the size of the rear sprocket (axle) will both give you a higher top speed.
People into quad racing tweak gearing ratio to find the optimal setup for each track they are racing.
Tracks with long stretches require higher top speeds, while tracks with many turns benefit from a better acceleration at the expense of higher top speeds.
As I mentioned, most bikes will actually have an electronic speed limiter to prevent riders from attempting speeds much higher than the machine is really designed for.
The limiter on Polaris Scrambler XP 1000 kicks in at about 80mph, but there have been reports of people reaching speeds in the range of 100mph simply by flashing new software to their bikes ECU.
The Scrambler XP 850 even has a higher stock top speed, with the limiter reportedly set at 83 mph.
Again, I strongly advise against doing these modifications. And quite frankly, I don’t really see the point of it unless you are into some serious racing. And don’t get me wrong, I love speed. Just not these kinds of speeds on an ATV.
What is the world’s fastest stock ATV on the market?
The fastest stock ATV you can buy today is the Polaris Scrambler XP 1000.
With its 90 hp, it’s been clocked at speeds over 80 mph (128 km/h).
What is the fastest ATV in the world?
According to the Guinness book of world records, the fastest speed ever achieved by an ATV was 196.19mph (315.74 km/h). The rider was Terry Wilmeth, and the bike was a modified Yamaha 700 raptor. Fitted with a hybrid rocket thruster.
Disclosure: We may get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.
The Kawasaki Bayou 220 ruled the four-wheeler landscape long before Team Green had its greats – the trail-conquering Prairie, the V-Twin-powered Brutes, and the sport-oriented KFX. This small but mean machine was one of the firsts to successfully tread the ATV playing field and introduce advanced features to the market. Let us take a closer look at one of Kawasaki’s longest, best-selling quads in this guide.
Introduced in 1988, the Kawasaki Bayou 220 is a rec-utility vehicle considered the most hardworking 4×4 in its class.
Boasting an automatic clutch, reverse gear, and independent front suspension, this 215-cm3 quad ran circles around its counterparts and enjoyed a 15-year production run.
A certified bulletproof classic, this small, light machine pioneered the four-wheeled ATV segment for Kawasaki like easy. Its “work hard, play harder” concept and straightforward design were more than sufficient a formula to win consumers’ and enthusiasts’ hearts over. Wondering about what else the Kawasaki Bayou 220 has to offer? Read on and discover.
As Team Green’s first four-wheeled off-road vehicle, this description is befitting the Kawasaki Bayou 220. Launched in 1985, the Bayou was initially produced as a 185-class machine. The timing of its inception was spot on, as reports of ATC-related accidents and injuries were brewing on the horizon, pushing consumers to go for a more stable off-road vehicle design that would provide them years of riding and outdoor fun.
With the Bayou 220, Kawasaki provided a highly reliable shaft drive, smooth-riding suspension system, convenient reverse gear, and plenty of low-RPM torque perfect for long trail rides and explorations. Not only was this wheeler small but also one of the most economical quads ever offered by its manufacturer. This rec-utility vehicle did a fantastic job as Kawasaki’s pioneer ATV, even besting bigger-displacement machines in handling and performance.
The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is the 3rd generation of its series, coming out three years after its predecessor joined the four-wheeler bandwagon. It carried on the same characteristics as that of the Bayou 185 and 300, but in a more compact chassis. During its 15-year production run, the Bayou released a bumped-up 400-cm3 4×4 version in 1993. This displacement upgrade catered to an entire market that was slowly shifting its interests towards big-bore machines.
The Bayou 220 has tons of power, making it an excellent ride on technical trails and mud bogs.
Its engine is bulletproof and has remained unchanged throughout the quad’s production. Fuel tank capacity is pretty sizeable and located under the handlebars. However, the machine is a bit picky with the fuel it takes. Mixing unleaded gasoline with a fuel stabilizer is advised, as it inhibits fuel oxidation and minimizes gummy deposits in the tank.
| Kawasaki 220 Bayou (KLF220) | |
|---|---|
| Engine Brand Name | Mikuni |
| Engine Type | 4-Stroke SOHC |
| Cylinder Arrangement | Single cylinder |
| Carburetion System | Mikuni VM24SS |
| Engine Cooling | Air cooling |
| Engine Fuel | Unleaded gasoline of at least Antiknock Index/PON 87 or RON 91, containing < 15% MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether)/TAME/ETBE, < 10% ethanol, or < 5% methanol w/ cosolvents & corrosion inhibitors |
| Fuel Capacity | 10 L/2. 6 US gal (reserve – 2 L/0.53 US gal) |
| Bore x Stroke Ratio | 67 x 61 mm (2.64 x 2.4 in) |
| Compression Ratio | 9.3:1 |
| Starting System | Electric/recoil |
| Displacement | 215 cm³ / 13.1 in³ |
| Maximum Power | 13–15 hp/13.2 – 15.2 PS (9.7–11.2 kW, estimated) |
| Maximum Torque | 17.7 Nm (1.8 kg-m, 13 ft-lb) @ 6,000 RPM |
| Top Speed | 45 mph (72.4 km/h) – owners’ claim |
| Lubrication | Forced lubrication (wet sump) |
| Engine Oil & Quantity | 2 L (2.1 US quarts) w/ filter 2.1 L (2.2 US quarts) w/out filter API grade of at least SJ meeting JASO T903 MA SAE 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50, 20W-40, 20W-50 – depending on ambient temperature |
This 4×4 has a no-nonsense manual transmission that not only makes the quad a joy to ride but also allows novice riders to learn how to operate ATVs with confidence.
All controls and levers are easily visible and spread out on either side of the handlebar.
The front brake lever, throttle limiter (for less experienced riders), and throttle lever are on the right, with the rest of the controls and switches on the left. Indicator lights are found on the center console, slightly above the fuel tank cap and fuel gauge.
The reverse knob is on the left side of the body panel, under the handlebar, while the 2-way key-operated ignition switch is at the same location on the opposite side of the body panel.
| Kawasaki 220 Bayou (KLF220) | |
|---|---|
| Clutch | Wet shoe, automatic, centrifugal type (primary) Wet, automatic, multi-disc type (secondary) |
| Transmission Type | 5-speed constant mesh w/ reverse, return shift |
| Drive System | Shaft drive |
| Primary Ratio | 3.450 (69/20) |
| Final Drive Ratio | 4. 680 (18/15 x 39/10) |
| Overall Drive Ratio | 12.686 (top gear) |
| Transmission Gear Ratio | 1st – 2.923 (38/13) 2nd – 1.684 (32/19) 3rd – 1.173 (27/23) 4th – 0.923 (24/26) 5th – 0.785 (22/28) Reverse – 3.115 (27/13 x 33/22) |
Perhaps, the most sensitive of the Kawasaki Bayou 220 parts is its ignition system. One solid proof of this statement is that most of the four-wheeler’s problems trace back to flaws in this area. Another interesting fact is that the Bayou’s charging system and rated output are unspecified in its manual. Consequently, owners will have to rely on Kawi forums to obtain more information about the machine’s voltage regulator and other electrical components.
| Kawasaki 220 Bayou (KLF220) | |
|---|---|
| Ignition | CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) |
| Ignition Timing | 10° BTDC @ 1,800 RPM – 35° BTDC @ 4,600 RPM |
| Spark Plug | NGK D8EA (gap – 0. 6-0.7 mm, 0.024-0.028 in) |
| Fuse | 20 Amp; 10 Amp or less (auxiliary light circuit) |
| Battery | 12V 12 Ah, YTX14AH/-BS battery formats |
| Battery Dimensions (L x W x H) | 5.2 x 3.5 x 6.5 inches (132 x 89 x 165 mm) |
It is unlikely that you will score a secondhand unit with stock rubber in mint condition nowadays. You may find stock wheels are still in decent condition and provide good traction. However, it is best to replace them with aftermarket Kawasaki Bayou 220 tires like Maxxis M9207 Front PRO ATV Tires (view on Amazon) – for improved cornering angles and overall handling.
| Kawasaki 220 Bayou (KLF220) | |
|---|---|
| Front Tire, off-road/road air pressure | Dunlop KT856 AT21 x 8-9, tubeless Tire Pressure: 20.68 kPa (0.21 kgf/cm2, 3 psi) |
| Rear Tire, off-road/road air pressure | Dunlop KT857 AT22 x 10-10, tubeless Tire Pressure: 20.  68 kPa (0.21 kgf/cm2, 3 psi) |
| Front Brake Type | Mechanical drum brake |
| Rear Brake Type | Mechanical drum brake |
Contrary to what other online sources claim, this machine’s front suspension is not fully independent. It is also not clear if the front and rear shocks (view on Amazon) are preload-adjustable or not. Despite falling short on these aspects, the Bayou 220 exhibited superb maneuverability and handling over rough roads and berms. Its light and responsive steering allow for a non-restrictive riding experience.
| Kawasaki 220 Bayou (KLF220) | |
|---|---|
| Frame Type | Tubular, double-cradle |
| Caster, Trail | 4°, 17 mm (0.67 in) |
| Turning Radius | 2.7 m (8.9 ft) |
| Front Suspension Type, Travel | Single A-arms w/ dual shocks, 114 mm (4. 5 in) |
| Rear Suspension Type, Travel | Quad-Link system w/ dual shocks, 124.5 mm (4.9 in) |
The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is quite large and heavy for its 215-cm3 displacement. It also sits lower than average, which taller riders may find uncomfortable. The quad does provide decent load capacity for its size – although this feels a bit lacking given its low-end grunt.
| Kawasaki 220 Bayou (KLF220) | |
|---|---|
| Length | 1,745 mm (68.7 in) |
| Width | 1,020 mm (40.2 in) |
| Height | 1,040 mm (40.9 in) |
| Seat Height (Unloaded) | 730 mm (28.7 in) |
| Ground Clearance | 155 mm (6.1 in) |
| Wheelbase | 1,115 mm (43.9 in) |
| Track (F/R) | 764 mm (30.1 in) / 776 mm (30.6 in) |
| Dry Weight | 183 Kg (404 lbs) |
| Carrier Capacity (F/R) | 20 Kg (44 lbs) / 30 Kg (66 lbs) |
| Vehicle Load Capacity Limit | 130 Kg (285 lbs) |
| Hitch Tongue Weight | 14 Kg (30 lbs) |
| Trailer Weight (including cargo) | 204 Kg (450 lbs) |
It has a double-cradle tubular steel frame and plastic body material available in two color options.
Styling is rugged but simplistic and comes standard with a vinyl saddle, footpegs atop full floorboards, and utility racks for light loads. Since it lacks instrumentation, a Trail Tech 752-119 Black Vapor Digital Speedometer Tachometer Gauge Kit (view on Amazon) will be a clever addition to your quad.
| Instrumentation | Kawasaki 220 Bayou (KLF220) |
|---|---|
| Speedometer | N/A |
| Indicator Lamps | Standard |
| Trip Odometer | N/A |
| Fuel Gauge | Standard |
| Engine Stop Switch | Standard |
| Oil Temperature Switch | N/A |
| Headlight | 12V 25W x 2 |
| Brake Light/Taillight | 12V 8W x 2 |
| Speedometer Light | N/A |
| Indicator Lights | (reverse, neutral) |
| Colors | Hunter Green, Firecracker Red |
The table below shows the list price of the Bayou 220 for all its models (Source: Nada Guides):
| Year – Trim – Model Number | List Price | Retail/Trade-In Values |
|---|---|---|
| 1988 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A1 | N/A | $250 – $1,690 |
| 1989 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A2 | $2,699 | $475 – $625 |
| 1990 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A3 | $2,799 | $475 – $625 |
| 1991 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A4 | $2,849 | $475 – $625 |
| 1992 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A5 | $2,899 | $475 – $625 |
| 1993 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A6 | $3,099 | $475 – $625 |
| 1994 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A7 | $3,349 | $475 – $625 |
| 1995 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A8 | $3,499 | $530 – $695 |
| 1996 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A9 | $3,699 | $610 – $800 |
| 1997 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A10 | $3,719 | $640 – $845 |
| 1998 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A11 | $3,299 | $655 – $860 |
| 1999 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A12 | $3,299 | $670 – $880 |
| 2000 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A13 | $3,299 | $700 – $920 |
| 2001 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A14 | $3,299 | $735 – $970 |
| 2002 Kawasaki Bayou KLF220-A15 | $2,999 | $755 – $995 |
These listed prices do not include auction listings of the Kawasaki Bayou 220 across multiple online sites, ranging between $500 and $1,600.
Most of these resale units are 1999 to 2002 models and are hard to come by outside of the U.S. For its low price point, expect your pre-loved wheeler to have a rusty muffler, no title, and a plugged carb needing work.
The rear wheel hubs of the KLF220 are attached to the axles by a castellated nut secured with a specified torque. A cotter pin locks it in place. The axle nut on several of these models was incorrectly tightened before inserting the cotter pin, causing an axle nut failure (hub coming off the axle shaft), potentially resulting in injury or death. Kawasaki dealers rectified the assembly flaw by applying the correct torque to the axle nut.
This problem often indicates a fuel or ignition system malfunction and may sometimes occur if the fuel pump does not squirt in enough fuel in time. Symptoms include an unusual popping noise when going on 5th gear, riding speeds below 20 mph, or letting off the throttle, plus a noticeable difference in power output.
More likely causes are as follows – a poorly tuned Kawasaki Bayou 220 carburetor, incorrect valve timing, or reducing your engine speed too quickly. Any of these problem sources cause the exhaust system to surge. Setting the idle screw too low (the perfect formula to running rich) can also trigger backfiring.
While a backfiring issue is not as grave as other problems encountered with this four-wheeler, it is always advisable to look into it microscopically. Prioritize doing compression and leak-down tests after confirming that you have this problem. Installing a Stage 1 Dynojet kit, snorkel, and K&N filter seems to get the job done for experienced owners.
Shimming the needles is another route that some riders take. It is also worth checking if your quad’s exhaust valves are too tight, as this causes backfiring through the carb, which blows a hole in the carb boots.
Although confused with a flooding issue, this problem is often in the starting circuit.
It could be a defective Kawasaki Bayou 220 starter circuit relay or a short, rendering the primary ignition system inoperable while engaging the starter – and is quite prevalent in 1994 models.
Rule out the source by jumping the solenoid if you suspect this. If it works, you would know that everything between the solenoid and starter motor is okay and that the issue is probably between the start button and solenoid.
Plugged Kawasaki Bayou 220 battery cables and connections also point to problems with the secondary ignition. Replacing the pulsing coil – what generates the ignition signal from the rotor portion of the stator assembly – has been proven to fix this issue.
Bear in mind that vibration (from traversing bumpy/rocky terrain) also loosens wire connections. So, if you take on numerous rock-crawling sections, inspect your wire connections twice as often. Replacing the stator or CDI box should be your last recourse.
Grounded kill switch, a neutral-only start switch, blown fuse, flywheel slipping or shearing the woodruff key, wire shortage, and a dirty shaft are other causes.
But if you want to be completely certain, the service manual recommends checking on these other items:
Regular inspection of electrical components tremendously helps in identifying starting issues in their early stages. Cleaning the brushes and the copper surface they run on with a non-flammable cleaner is another preventive measure. Some tips shared by veteran Bayou owners include cleaning the orange-colored copper surface with 400-600 grit fine sandpaper and ensuring no oil is spilling from the engine (and dirtying the contacts).
Engine noises are often described as louder than a valve click, more metallic than a rod bearing, and stays the same in or out of gear (even when in forward or reverse gear position) and regardless of vehicle load.
And while it is something to be expected from an ATV, ignoring it should never be an option – as persistent ticking sounds often indicate a bad rectifier/regulator in its pre-detonation stage or an internal problem within the vehicle.
In this scenario, it is best to get a tapered bar or mechanic’s stethoscope and determine where the noise originates. If it is from the top, inspect your quad’s cam lobe and rocker arm surface (including cam bearings and rocker pins) for wear.
Also, make sure to check/adjust valve clearance if you see no visual damage. If it is coming from the bottom center, see if your rod bearing is going bad. And if the sound is from the bottom right, then take a look at your clutch hub.
You may need some non-hardening gasket sealer as you troubleshoot this issue, as well as a flywheel/bolt puller to take the flywheel and the balancer nut off. Analog meters also work better at giving you accurate voltage readings versus digital ones.
Typically, adjusting the valves and cam chain resolves the problem, while replacing the piston and rings (ideally paired with a flex hone) helps mitigate the noise.
Be careful when adjusting the chain tensioner on a Kawasaki Bayou 220, as it has a one-way clutch that lets the tensioner come out but not go back in.
Especially on older engines, you may need to loosen the bolt and let the spring push the tensioner out before tightening the bolt back in.
Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. is a corporation widely known to produce aerospace equipment, industrial plants, ships, tractors, and off-road vehicles – among these numerous side x sides, motorcycles, and ATVs like the Kawasaki Bayou 220. Founded in 1878, Kawasaki began as a supplier of technological innovations for Japanese shipping businesses and has now evolved into a massive company producing aerospace and energy systems, hydraulic machinery, motorsport vehicles, ATVs/UTVs, and personal watercraft.
All in all, the Kawasaki Bayou 220 is a praiseworthy machine that is highly capable, surprisingly fast, and forgiving to novice riders. But do not let these qualities fool you – this trail tamer is not solely for the untrained beginner. Riders of all skill levels are guaranteed to have a blast riding outdoors and traversing diverse terrain with its excellent power delivery, rugged aesthetics, and practical features..bmp)
Call it a vintage quad, if you will, but this four-wheeler can still provide you an exhilarating riding experience – just like any other present-day behemoth. It has successfully captured the hearts of enthusiasts once, and it can do so again.
The popularity of motorcycles is growing every year, and this is because people are discovering new and new ways to use it. So, they usually decide to buy an ATV in order to easily overcome almost impassable roads. And then options are already possible, because modern models are distinguished by endurance, thoughtful comfort, and maneuverability. They are adapted for various needs: transportation of household goods, fishing and hunting trips, long and distant travels and, of course, entertainment and sports competitions.
For all their merits, ATVs do not belong to the high-speed mode of transport. But given their key mission, they don’t need this, because indicators such as power, cross-country ability, and safety level are much more important.
And yet, which model to choose if you want to be smarter? And in what cases is this parameter really relevant? Experts of the Sport-Extreme Motorcycle Center will tell about this.
Models of modern "ATVs" differ in design in order to better meet certain operating tasks. The differences between the types of ATVs relate, among other things, to the speed parameters that motor vehicles are capable of developing.
The most versatile and therefore popular type of ATV, which is ideal for driving on country roads and off-road, forests, marshy and rough terrain, mud and sand, primer. The maximum developed speed of utilitarians reaches 75 km/h or more, but in most difficult areas you will not need more than 20-40 km/h. An excellent choice for those who spend the season in the country or prefer to go hunting, fishing, or on a motorcycle trip.
Utility vehicles are equipped with powerful engines, good suspension, and high ground clearance.
For better grip on the road, such ATV equipment is equipped with deep-tread rubber, and the wheels themselves have wide tires. This allows you to provide the best possible grip on the ground, which is not stable outside the city.
Such models are designed for operation in a flat highway, and here it is quite possible to travel at a high speed compared to other types of quadrics. The possibilities of urban versions in this regard reach 80 - 95 km / h. And this is comparable to the cruising speed of a passenger car.
These speed capabilities are affected by a number of design and technical characteristics. In particular, highway motorcycles have low ground clearance, narrower tires and not as deep a tread as utility models, respectively, a completely different area of contact with the road surface.
So when choosing such a model, it should be borne in mind that even light off-road conditions will be a test for it.
Such models are capable of accelerating up to 120 - 130 km / h (for example, Yamaha YFM 700 R / SE). This is facilitated by the lightweight design of the device and compact dimensions, because this technique is designed to perform jumps and other tricks. The fuel tank is small compared to utility and road ATVs, and the engine is medium in volume, which allows you to give the equipment a short-term load for acceleration and leaving the springboard.
For the safety of young drivers on these models, the speedometer will not show more than 45 km/h. But this will be quite enough to drive through the fields and rural roads, forest parks and spacious courtyards with comfort, pleasure and for the benefit of the peace of mind of parents, naturally, away from the roadway and under the supervision of adults.
In addition, many models are equipped with a remote engine shutdown system. Children's models are designed for the age of 6 - 12 years and are able to withstand a child or teenager weighing, as a rule, up to 55 kg.
In the catalog of the "Sport-Extreme" center you will find motor all-terrain vehicles for any purpose. The website of the online store presents a wide range of ATVs from trusted manufacturers:
Delivery across Russia by transport companies.
models suitable for your goals and expectations.
For a detailed consultation on availability, prices and features, just call +7 (4822) 65-65-03.
Bantuc » Aug 28, 2014, 12:22
Who has reached the maximum speed on their ATV? This season I myself bought my first quadric for riding through forests and fields, before that I rode a motorcycle on which I accelerated to 260+, and now 90 it's already scary to go on a quadric, it's uncomfortable)))
Everything will be fine!
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Vinnitsa81 » 28 Aug 2014, 13:23
When I rented a Kawasaki in the Kiev region, so that I wouldn’t go out in the meadows to drive more than 65-70. On a more or less flat road, of course, you can do more, but you can’t accelerate much over hills, pits, and sticks.
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Mary » Aug 28, 2014, 6:08 pm
I drive my Stels quad at 70 km/h, although I like higher speeds. It’s just that I’m still a novice in this business, and I don’t risk being too reckless on it.
And I choose the roads that are more even - although when I see the rides of professionals who squeeze out all the possibilities from ATVs and quickly rush through the mountains - it captures the spirit, I want to become the same dashing racer.
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Oleg Vladovskoy » August 28, 2014, 18:31
I can't say that a quadric is a racing vehicle. It can be said about it as a transport that is designed to overcome those places where nothing else will pass and it’s not so funny to drive it, there are other modes of transport for this. I developed 9 on my Honda0 km. per hour, but did not feel pleasant feelings.
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kol9win » Aug 28, 2014, 07:15 PM
I went to the mountains on the weekend and picked up speed of 70 km/h there on an uneven road.
Unfortunately, my ATV cannot accelerate anymore, unless it is well trimmed.
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Gleb » 29 Aug 2014, 09:51
Personally, I ran up to 96 km/h on Hond'e, it was, frankly, scary. A friend on the Lynx extreme for a hundred, but on a more or less flat road. I heard that someone rides 120, but it's hard to believe.
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Stepan » Aug 29, 2014, 10:14
The Quad was originally created for off-road, so I don’t even accelerate it over 60 on concrete.
