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One of the most asked questions at Les Schwab is about the price of new tires. People want to know what a set of four tires will cost them. The price of a new set of tires depends on the type of vehicle you drive, how much comfort you want, ride quality, noise level, tread durability, and traction features, which can include seasonal tires and tires for specific terrain. Here’s how to understand the cost of your next set of new tires and why the Les Schwab Best Tire Value Promise saves you money with free peace of mind tire protection and a warranty that won’t cost you extra.
Price is a big factor for any purchase. While some online retailers might have the tires you want at a price you like, you run the risk of getting the wrong type of tires for your vehicle and driving needs. Plus, you'll need to find someone to mount them to your wheels, balance them, install them on your vehicle, and dispose of your old tires. This takes more of your time and adds to the overall cost of getting new tires. Then there are tire manufacturer warranties or other premium services to consider.
When you purchase passenger or light truck tires at Les Schwab, we mount them for free, rotate those tires for free, re-balance them for free, offer free flat repair and air-pressure checks, as well as give you a free best-in-the-industry warranty that even includes road hazard protection at no extra charge. More on that warranty in a bit.
On new tires, the price can range greatly. Tire size, which is directly tied to the vehicle you drive, affects the price. You’ll typically need a larger tire for a pickup than you would for a car. Tires are also priced based on the amount of rubber used to manufacture them as well as the manufacturing technology and features.
For example, an electric vehicle (EV) will require performance tires with a higher speed rating and load capacity, which can cost more than a set of standard all-season tires.
As with any purchase with varying levels of price and performance, there are trade-offs to consider. These can include comfort, control and traction, tire life, durability, fuel economy and the cost of a set of tires. You might even consider replacing just two instead of all four tires to save money. However, doing so can impact vehicle safety, performance, and longevity. See our article on replacing all four tires on an AWD vehicle.
If you’re looking for maximum fuel efficiency, we can help with our article on how to choose car tires.
Looking for snow tires? Depending on what you drive, maneuverability in the snow can add to the price of tires. That’s because today’s snow tires are highly engineered and packed with technological breakthroughs designed to keep you and your family safe on the road, whether that’s bare pavement on a well-maintained interstate or a snow-covered, winding motorway through the mountains.
Check out our guide to buying tires for help pinpointing the type and size of tire you need. These can include all-season tires, all-weather tires, winter/snow tires, mud terrain, as well as all-terrain tires, performance tires, highway tires, traction tires, and specialty tires.
Another factor to consider when evaluating the price of a new set of tires is the warranty and other after-purchase services. The tread life on a set of tires can range up to 80,000 miles and beyond. Some places might charge extra for the warranty, but at Les Schwab, that’s part of our Best Tire Value Promise.
Our freebies include a world-class warranty, free lifetime tire and mileage care, and free peace of mind tire protection, including flat repair, rotations, rebalancing, replacement, safety checks, brake inspections, and visual alignment checks at any Les Schwab location. From Colorado and Wyoming to the West Coast, you’re never far from one of our stores – or the road services we deliver.
We even offer free tire disposal when you replace your old tires at Les Schwab.
Many of today’s new vehicles come with run-flat tires. Most of the time, these cars don’t have a spare, making run-flat tires the important difference between being stranded on the side of the road or being able to get to a repair shop. However, they can be more expensive than standard tires.
When you’re ready to shop new tires, our pros are here to help. Stop by your local Les Schwab and we’ll take a look at your current tires, make recommendations for your next set, and show you all the options that best fit your driving needs.
Learn More About Tires
Most people get nervous when it’s time to get a new set of tires. You know tires aren’t cheap, but just how much can they cost? And it doesn’t stop here: there are additional service costs, tire disposal fees, installation costs, and road hazard warranty, all of which can make a significant dent in your wallet.
The average cost of tires and installation for economy and sedan cars ranges from $50 to about $75. For sports cars and SUVs, the price jumps significantly to somewhere between $100 and $300 a piece and can even go higher sometimes.
I’ll take you through the process of tire change, balancing, and installation in the next segment of this article. This will help you better understand what goes into a tire change and why professionals charge so much for the service.
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The price for new tires and installation has changed over the years. Tires have become more complicated, and the automotive industry regulations are changing rapidly. The discontinuation of lead wheel weights, the adoption of improved tire pressure monitoring systems, and the craving for larger stylish rims have made the process even more complicated and pricey.
You can’t install economy or sedan car tires on a sports vehicle, nor can you install SUV tires in a pick-up truck.
Based on a car’s rim size, suspension system, and volume, you’ll have to look for specifically sized tires. Moreover, manufacturers recommend specific tire sizes and types, and you should stick to their recommendations if you want to avoid causing severe damage to your car. Remember, each tire size and type has its price tag.
Your best bet in estimating how much the tires and installation will cost would be to contact your mechanic with your exact tire size and type for a price estimate. But what entails the entire tire installation service? And how much does each process cost?
Once you’ve determined that it’s time for new tires, you’ll want to know the correct tire size for your car. You can check your car’s door jamb for tire size information in the car’s manual. Ensuring your tire replacements match the manufacturer’s instructions requires your understanding of how tire size works. The string of numbers you rarely pay attention to on your tires contains tire size information.
Assume the string of numbers and letters on your tire walls is P 225/70R16 91S. Each of these numbers and letters stand for the following:
4 mm). Wheel diameters range between 13 inches (330.2 mm) to 24 inches (609.6 mm).If you want to change your tire size and type, consult an expert for advice. As you’ve already seen, different tire options have varying load capacities and require different rim widths and diameters.
Of course, I don’t want to delve deeper into the science of tires, so I’ll only focus on the cost aspect: different tire sizes and types will be priced differently.
Below is a table giving cost estimates of the different tire types and sizes:
| Wheel size | All-Season (Average Price) | All-Terrain (Average Price) |
| Small (12”-15”) | $50-$150 a piece | _ |
| Medium (16”-20”) | $100-$250) a piece | $150-$250 |
| Large (18”-26”) | $150-$400 a piece | $200-$1000 |
Regular tire mounting cost is no different across various automotive repair shops.
A professional tire installation service entails professional mounting, installation, and wheel balancing. Proper wheel balancing guarantees optimum tire life and your car’s safety. Incorrectly balanced tires cause unpleasant vibrations and make your tires and suspension wear prematurely.
You may also like to check: How Much Does Walmart Charge for Tire Installation?
When you take your car into an auto repair shop, the mechanic starts by unscrewing the wheels from your car. At this point, the mechanic can quickly inspect your brake and suspension systems, but this shouldn’t replace full brakes and suspension system inspections.
The technician should also inspect the condition of the wheel studs and lug nuts to ensure that the wheel is secured safely and firmly. You shouldn’t pay for this; it’s part of the installation.
Once the technician removes the wheel, the next step should be to remove the tire from the wheel (rim).
Specialized equipment is needed. The process isn’t for the hands of your regular home mechanic.
First, the technician removes balancing weights and the valve system to deflate the tires. Next, the mounting machine presses the tire out of the wheel, and the mechanic pulls and pries at the tire to carefully detach it from the rim.
The mechanic inspects the wheel for potential damage and cleans it of dirt and debris. Defects to the wheel may affect how well it bonds with the tire and how it will balance when mounted back to the car. The mechanic should also thoroughly clean bead areas where the tire touches the rim.
Newer car models feature a tire pressure monitoring system to keep tabs on air pressure in the tires. The technician should inspect and service the TPMS sensors with new seals for smooth operation. Check whether the TPMS serving cost is included in the installation fee.
If not, the TPMS service kit should cost $5-$10 per wheel.
Sometimes the sensors will be faulty and will need replacing. In most cases, TPMS sensor replacement cost isn’t included in the installation fee. TPMS pressure sensors’ cost ranges from $50-$250, depending on your car model.
The technician will then use a tire mounting machine to press the tire bead over the rim, replace the valves, inflate the tire, and check for leaks. The technician should be careful not to damage the TPMS sensors.
Imbalanced wheels impact your driving experience by causing excessive vibrations, accelerating tire wear, and causing possible damage to the undertrain or suspension system.
The next (and one of the most important steps) is wheel balancing. The technician will use a tire assembly balancing machine to spin the assembly at high speed to detect heavy spots. The machine will pause the spin at the exact spot where weights are needed to balance the wheel.
The mechanic will repeat the process until the whole tire assembly is balanced.
Again you should check whether the wheel balancing cost is included in the installation fee. Some repair shops offer a complete package, which is higher than the standard wheel installation cost, and some don’t. Depending on your location and car, you can expect to pay between $40 and $75 for balancing all four wheels.
The technician will then mount each wheel assembly back to the car and torque the lug nuts to the correct tightness. This process is naturally included in the service fee, and you shouldn’t be expected to pay anything extra. While still on the service bay lift, you can request wheel alignment.
The technician may also recommend an alignment. Wheel alignment, also known as breaking or tracking, is standard automobile maintenance that involves adjusting the vehicle’s wheel angles back to the automaker’s specifications.
Wheels’ alignment angle refers to the wheel’s angle to each other and the vehicle’s body.
Misaligned wheels cause unnecessary wear to the steering, brakes, tires, and suspension. Aligning your wheels will improve the vehicle’s stability, maximize tire life, and improve car handling performance.
It would be best to have your wheels aligned every 6000 miles (10,000 km) or when you start feeling changes in the driving experience or ability to handle the car.
If you lost track of your alignment schedule, make sure you align your wheels if you experience the following:
If wheel alignment isn’t part of the installation package, you can request for the same or if the mechanic sees it fit.
The cost of front-end alignment, which typically involves the two front wheels only, can cost anywhere from $50 to $75.
All-wheel alignment costs more, typically from $100 to $150. You can expect to dig your pockets deeper if you own a luxury car.
This Youtube video explains the difference between wheel balancing, rotation, and alignment.
After rechecking everything, the mechanic will lower your car from the lift. Once on the ground, the technician can use a torque wrench to recheck the lug nuts’ tightness to ensure the wheels are stable and firmly fixed as they should be.
Moreover, the tire pressure should be set to correct levels as recommended by the manufacturer on the tires’ placard.
Tire retailers offer a road-hazard warranty to cover you with prorated discounts if your tire is damaged.
The warranty comes for a small fee, which might or might not be included in the installation cost.
On the other hand, tire manufacturers offer mileage warranties to guarantee that you won’t have to replace the tires before a specific mileage. Typical mile range is 20,000-80,000 miles.
In return, you must align your wheels regularly and perform rotational maintenance so that the tires don’t wear out prematurely. High-mileage warranty will cost more but will be beneficial if you drive a lot. However, not all tire makers offer mileage warranties, so you’ll want to ask about this when choosing the make of your tire replacement.
Tires are hazardous waste, and disposing of your worn-out tires will cost you anywhere from $2 to $6. The cost varies depending on whether you dump them off at a recycling facility or pay a tire dealer to dump them for you. You can also generously donate them to someone who needs them.
Your busy schedules shouldn’t stop you from checking your tires thoroughly for wear and damage.
But how would you know they need replacing?
You can try this Steelman Digital Tire Tread Gauge available on Amazon.com. It reads tread depths from 0-25mm or 0-1 inch.
A lot goes into maintaining a car, and taking care of your tires is an essential part of the process. They are the components that carry the vehicle and are thus prone to wear and damage.
Replacing tires costs money, as does maintaining your car’s suspension system. The cost of replacing and installing new tires will depend on your car’s tire size and type. And, of course, your car model matters too.
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Konstantin Ishchenko
experienced motorist
Much depends on the condition of the suspension, springs and shock absorbers, but tires provide direct grip with the road. Wrong or worn tires can cause accidents. In this article, we will tell you how to avoid this.
In the spring - from winter to summer. There are no strict requirements in the regulatory documents: it is recommended to use winter tires from December to February, and summer tires from June to August. There are requirements for studded tires: they cannot be used from the first of June - for this they can be warned or fined 500 R.
From winter to summer, they change shoes at an average daily temperature above +7 ° C. After this mark, winter tires wear out quickly and hold the road poorly.
Rules of the Customs Union "On the safety of wheeled vehicles"
In autumn - from summer to winter. It's time to change tires if the average daily temperature drops below +10 °C: summer tires become dull, grip becomes worse. In autumn, it is much more difficult to sign up for a tire fitting: the closer the frost, the longer the appointment. People are afraid of ice, the prospect of hitting someone else's car or flying into a ditch.
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Wheels scratched at my car service
Car tires are consumables. In addition to seasonal replacement, it is important to replace them as soon as they are worn out or seriously damaged.
When the tire is worn. Each car tire has a wear indicator - a special jumper between the tread islands. As soon as the tread wears off and matches the level of at least one of the indicator jumpers, it's time to change the tire. Such a tire is dangerous, especially on wet surfaces.
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Insufficiently high tread poorly removes water from the tire contact patch with the roadway. Where you can confidently drive 70–80 km/h on new tires, on worn tires you can lose control of the car already at a speed of 55–60 km/h.
Indicator bar on a tire that has been through a season and a halfSome manufacturers apply their own wear indicators in addition to the standard ones. For example, on Nokian tires, numbers are cut in the middle of the tread: the larger the number, the deeper the cut.
A relatively new tire will have a lot of numbers, a worn one or two will remain - the rest will be erased. A drop with a cross is applied to the sidewall of the Continental tire. As soon as it is worn down to half, the tire should be considered worn out and replaced.
But all these are rather exceptions - most tires do not have such indicators.
Wear may be uneven. If the tire has been inflated, the center of the tread will be worn off. If the tire pressure was too low, it will be relatively fresh and the sidewalls of the tread will be worn out.
Non-standard wear indicators. From left to right: Nokian with numbers - summer and winter, Continental summer - with a drop and a cross Tire that was pumped over: wear on the central part of the tread is much strongerIt also happens that either the inner or outer side of the tread wears out on one wheel. This means that the camber is broken - the angle of the wheel relative to the vertical plane. In this case, it is important to sign up for wheel alignment - this is a service during which the wheel alignment angles are adjusted.
It happens that the angles of the wheels are not adjusted. For example, if the car has been in a serious accident and its power parts of the body or suspension parts are deformed.
In this case, you will have to eliminate these malfunctions, and then go to the wheel alignment stand again.
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Sawtooth or comb wear occurs on winter tires if the toe-in is broken - the angle of the wheel position in the horizontal plane. Sign up for a wheel alignment so that the same wear does not appear on the new tire.
Uneven tread wear. The tire was on a wheel with unadjusted camber Comb-shaped tread wear. Source: mashintop.ruWhen the tire is damaged and it is noticeable. It is quite easy to damage a tire: cut the sidewall, run into a piece of reinforcement or get hit, in place of which a hernia will come out. All sidewall damage is a good reason to buy a new tire: repairs will be expensive and ineffective. Damage to the working part of the tire - the tread - is less critical.
When damage is present but not visible. Hidden damage may appear on the back of the wheel.
For example, a driver caught a hole, felt a good hit, got out, saw that everything was in order, and drove on. And on the reverse side, a piece of rubber was torn out and the cord became visible - the metal carcass of the tire. Such damages are found only when inspecting the chassis or at a tire fitting, and this is bad: they can cause an accident or serious damage to the car.
Service life of car tires. The tire life recommended by most manufacturers is five years, but this does not mean that they cannot be used for the sixth year. The expiration date is not limited by any documents.
GOST R 52900-2007
Tire manufacturers estimate tire service life differently. Nokian provided the most detailed explanation: “Tire life is not defined by law, but tires can only be considered new if they have been manufactured within the last five years. The recommended tire life is 6 years and the maximum is 10 years. Then the tire loses its consumer properties: grip deteriorates, vibration may appear on the body or steering wheel.
5 years
tire life recommended by most manufacturers
Storage location - less than a meter away from direct sunlight and heaters. In the sun, near the battery and in the rain, the tire will quickly lose its properties: the rubber will dry out and collapse. Permissible temperature - from -30 to +35 ° C, humidity - 50-80%. Do not leave the wheels dirty; they must be thoroughly washed before seasonal storage. Tires can be stored under a canopy in the open air for no more than a month.
GOST 54266-2010
The method of storage depends on the set: either tires separately or wheels as an assembly. Tires up to 205 mm wide can be stored in even stacks up to 2 m high. Tires from 210 mm are stored vertically - on edge. Every three months, all tires, regardless of width, should be rotated to change the footprint.
GOST does not explain how to store the wheels as an assembly, but Nokian has a visual manual for storage.
Continental recommends hanging wheels by rims or storing them in a stack, similar to tires, turning them over every 4 weeks. It is advisable to reduce the air pressure in the tire to 1-1.5 atm and not make stacks of wheels - a tire plus a disk - more than four pieces.
Nokian Tire Storage TipsPDF, 2.1 MB
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First of all, you need to decide which tires are suitable. All important characteristics are written on the sidewall of the tire.
It is important to consider the dimensions of the tire when selecting it for a specific car and rim. All options provided for by the design of the car are written on special plates.
Depending on the brand of car, they can be found on the gas tank flap or on the B-pillar in the driver's doorway.
The recommended tire pressure is also written here.
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Decal with Mini John Cooper Works tire parameters in the doorway: size and recommended pressure at different loads Decal on the gas tank flap Skoda OctaviaTire sizes are indicated in the format xxx/xx Rx. They are on the sidewall of the tire.
The first parameter is the tread width in mm. The size step is 10 mm, always 5 at the end. Next is the tire profile, or its height as a percentage relative to the width. The width of a tire with parameters 235/55/R16 is approximately 129 mm, and for a tire 195/55/R16 it is 107 mm.
R - an indication of the type of tire, in this case, that it is radial. There are also diagonal ones, but this is an outdated design. These have not been used for cars for a long time. The difference is in the design of the cord. A popular misconception is that R is a radius.
The last two digits are the diameter of the rim in inches, on which the tire can be placed.
It is undesirable to deviate from the tire parameters recommended by the car manufacturer. This can adversely affect handling, as well as cause the tire to rub against the wheel arch or suspension parts: this will damage the tire and increase the likelihood of an accident.
It happens that on the front and rear axles from the factory there are disks for rubber of different sizes. Usually we are talking about the width - the rear wheels can be wider than the front. In the people, such a set of disks is called a different-wide one.
Tube or tubeless construction. Previously, a car wheel consisted of three main parts: a disc, a tube, and a tire. The tire was responsible only for traction and overall strength, the chamber was a container for air. This design had serious drawbacks:
Now you can find a tube tire on a car only in a museum or in your grandfather's garage: the technology is outdated.
Modern tubeless tires do not have these drawbacks. Special protrusions in the disks — hubs, for which the tire clings, help to maintain the tightness of the tubeless wheel.
Manufacturers still mark tubeless tires with a special tubeless mark, and those intended for use with a tube - tube type, but now these are only rare domestic modelsCord construction type. Each tire is multi-layered, a single rubber product will not be able to provide the desired shape and strength. Therefore, inside the tire there is a cord - a kind of carcass. The cord can be metal, synthetic fibers or textile threads. According to the method of laying the cord, tires are divided into radial and diagonal.
| Bias tire | Radial tire |
|---|---|
| 2 or more cords | 1 ply cord |
| Smaller footprint | Larger road contact patch |
| Tire heavier than | Tire lighter |
| Used on commercial vehicles | Used on passenger cars |
| Cheaper than | More expensive |
Bias
Radial tire
2 layers of cord or more than
1 layer of cord
Less contact stain with an expensive
SPECTION with an expensive
tire
Tires lighter than
are used on commercial equipment
used on cars
Cheaper
More expensive
Radial tire cords are parallel to the wheel circumference, on top of each other.
For diagonal tires, the cord layers overlap each other diagonally. Source: Kolobox DOT marking. The name comes from the American Department of Transportation - an analogue of our Department of Transportation. In 1978, this department approved mandatory labeling for all automobile tires, which includes Treadwear, Traction, and Temperature grades marked on the sidewall. Now most manufacturers use this system, selling tires without such marking is illegal in the USA.
Treadwear. Some people want tires to last as long as possible, others want good grip. So far, these qualities have not been learned to combine in one tire.
The wear rate of a tire is indicated by the Treadwear index. Typically, for products for passenger cars, this parameter ranges from 100 to 600. In terms of kilometers, this is approximately 10,000-15,000 km per hundred points. For example, index 240 corresponds to 24,000-36,000 km.
At the end of the range there will be tires that were used with a calm driving style.
Traction also shows the grip class, but unlike Russian traffic rules and technical regulations, the classification is based not on distance in meters, but on the deceleration coefficient - G, which the tire can provide. According to Traction, all tires are divided into classes according to their ability to effectively stop a car on wet asphalt and concrete: from the best AA to the worst C.
| Class | G on asphalt | G on concrete |
|---|---|---|
| AA | More than 0.54 m/s² | 0.38 m/s² |
| A | More than 0.47 m/s² | 0.35 m/s² |
| B | More than 0.38 m/s² | 0.26 m/s² |
| C | Less than 0.38 m/s² | 0.26 m/s² |
Grade AA
G on asphalt
More than 0.
54 m/s²
G on concrete
0.38 m/s²
Grade A
G on asphalt
more than 0.47 m/s²
G on concrete
0.35 m/s²
Class B
G On the asphalt
more than 0.38 m/s²
G on concrete
0.26 m/s²
Class C
G on asphalt
less than 0.38 m/s²
9000 G on concrete0.26 m/s²
Temperature curve, Temperature. All tires are divided into three classes according to resistance to heat generation during movement: A, B and C. Class A tires effectively remove heat at speeds over 185 km / h, class B - from 160 to 185 km / h, class C - from 137 up to 160 km/h. For passenger cars, there are almost no tires on sale, except for class A.
Runflat. This rubber has a thick and stiff sidewall. It can be driven up to 80 km at speeds up to 80 km/h after a puncture or side cut with a complete loss of pressure.
It is important that the machine is equipped with a tire pressure system, otherwise the driver may not recognize a flat tire, exceed the recommended speed, or drive more than 80 km, which at best will lead to damage to the rim, and at worst, to an accident.
Many vehicles come with runflat tires from the factory. Especially on those who do not have a spare tire. Such tires are 1.5-2 times more expensive than ordinary ones, they make driving less comfortable: due to the hard sidewall, such rubber smooths out bumps much worse and is heavier than conventional tires.
But you don't have to call a tow truck: you can almost always get to the tire shop on your own. If you drive on a relatively flat road, there will be no damage to the alloy wheel: it is still a few centimeters from the road surface.
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Load and maximum speed indices. Load Index is a two- or three-digit number that indicates the maximum weight that the tire can support.
The speed index is denoted by a Latin letter. It shows the maximum allowable speed that the tire can withstand. All indices are summarized in tables.
| Speed index | Maximum speed, km/h |
|---|---|
| L | 120 |
| M | 130 |
| N | 140 |
| P | 150 |
| Q | 160 |
| R | 170 |
| S | 180 |
| T | 190 |
| U | 200 |
| H | 210 |
| V | 240 |
| W | 270 |
| Y | 300 |
| Z | 300+ |
Speed index
Maximum speed, km/h
If you want to know how to read the load index, find your value in the table.
Load index
Mass per tire, kg
100
800
101
825
104
900
105
925
106
950 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 108
1000
109
1030
110
1060
111
1090
112
1120
113
11502
114
1180
115
1215
116
1250
117
1285
118
1320
119
1360
120
1400
121
14000 22222 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000 9000,000,000,000 9000,000,000 9000,000,000,000 9000,000,000,000 9000,000,000,000,000,000
| Load index | Weight per tire, kg | Load index | Weight per tire, kg | Load index | Weight per tire, kg |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 62 | 265 | 83 | 487 | 104 | 900 |
| 63 | 272 | 84 | 500 | 105 | 925 |
| 64 | 280 | 85 | 515 | 106 | 950 |
| 65 | 290 | 86 | 530 | 107 | 975 |
| 66 | 300 | 87 | 545 | 108 | 1000 |
| 67 | 307 | 88 | 560 | 109 | 1030 |
| 68 | 315 | 89 | 580 | 110 | 1060 |
| 69 | 325 | 90 | 600 | 111 | 1090 |
| 70 | 335 | 91 | 615 | 112 | 1120 |
| 71 | 345 | 92 | 630 | 113 | 1150 |
| 72 | 355 | 93 | 650 | 114 | 1180 |
| 73 | 365 | 94 | 670 | 115 | 1215 |
| 74 | 375 | 95 | 690 | 116 | 1250 |
| 75 | 387 | 96 | 710 | 117 | 1285 |
| 76 | 400 | 97 | 730 | 118 | 1320 |
| 77 | 412 | 98 | 750 | 119 | 1360 |
| 78 | 425 | 99 | 775 | 120 | 1400 |
| 79 | 437 | 100 | 800 | 121 | 1450 |
| 80 | 450 | 101 | 825 | 122 | 1500 |
| 81 | 462 | 102 | 850 | 123 | 1550 |
| 82 | 475 | 103 | 875 | 124 | 1600 |
Pressure index is another name for the load index.
Euro label. Manufacturers put special stickers on tires. They have three parameters that are not written about on the bus itself. These stickers appeared in 2012. Since then, they have been on any tire sold in the EU.
Label according to EC Regulation 1222/2009. This is a complex document with formulas and parameters like rolling resistance - it does not have the usual values like fuel consumption or braking distances. The sticker describes the tire according to three characteristics: noise level, fuel economy class and wet grip class.
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Noise level shows the noise level in decibels. One black sound wave is 3 or more decibels below the 2016 European norm. Two waves - at the normal level or quieter, but less than 3 decibels. Three - noisy tire, out of limit.
Fuel economy class. A is the most economical.
The lower the class, the more the tire resists rolling and the higher the fuel consumption. There is a 7.5% difference in fuel consumption between the most economical class A tire and the most "wasteful" class G. That is, for an average car with a consumption of 10 liters per 100 km and an annual mileage of 25,000 km, class A tires will save up to 187 liters of fuel - 8000 R.
Road grip. The same letters, but without color indication. This estimate was obtained when checking the braking distance on asphalt. The shorter the stopping distance, the closer the letter is to the beginning of the alphabet. The difference between A and G is more than 18 meters: A is the minimum stopping distance, B is plus 3 meters to A, C is plus 7 meters to A, D is plus 10 meters to A, E is plus 12 meters to A, F is plus 18 meters to A.
Sticker on a new tire Color markers on tires. There are another colored stripes on the tire tread - these are technological marks, they are of no use to the buyer.
These drawings guide the production line, and they can also show the batch and release date.
The most pedantic car owners may try to buy a set of new tires with identical stripes, but it is better to focus on the stamp with the release date on the sidewall.
Features of the choice of all-season tires. Theoretically, they can be ridden all year round. The rubber compound works in the temperature range from -7 to +15 °C. In severe frosts, rubber hardens like summer tires at temperatures below +10 °C, and in hot weather it becomes softer, like winter tires at temperatures above +7 °C. In any case, all-season tires are not suitable for either hot asphalt or ice ruts.
All-season tires are chosen when they want to save on tire fitting and buying an extra set of tires. This is true for crossovers and SUVs with relatively low annual mileage.
Features of the choice of summer tires.
There are models for quiet city driving. Such tires will help save fuel, please with a low noise level and will last three to four seasons. At the same time, they will not tolerate overheating, will not provide perfect grip on the road and will not allow you to drive a car with great comfort.
The opposite - tires for those who like to push the gas to the floor. Such tires will make noise, increase fuel consumption and wear out in one or two seasons. In return, the driver will get excellent grip and driving pleasure.
Features of the choice of winter tires. There are three types of winter tires.
The studded tires are good for driving on ice and packed snow. They have relatively hard rubber, deep tread and studs. And they also hold the road well on asphalt: the spikes have been hidden in the tread for a long time.
Ideal conditions - ice cover above -15°C. The ice is soft enough for the spikes to grip most effectively.
Disadvantages: they are very noisy, they have a low speed index. Usually, you can drive on studded tires no faster than 160-180 km/h. And they are also banned in many European countries because they spoil the asphalt.
Scandinavian style friction tires, aka Velcro, studless and made for harsh winters. Rough tread pattern, soft rubber compound and many sipes - horizontal slots on the islands of the tire tread.
Ideal conditions are snow and ice below -15°C. They are noticeably quieter, you can move at a much higher speed on them.
Disadvantages: such tires wear out quickly, almost do not hold the car on melted smooth ice at temperatures above -5 °C. There is a small distance between the tread islands, such tires do not drain water well from the contact patch with the roadway.
Alpine type friction tires without studs and made for mild winters. There are 1.5-2 times fewer sipes on the tread, the grooves for water drainage are much wider.
This is the most wear resistant winter tire.
Ideal conditions - puddles, asphalt, -5 to +3 °C. Well remove water from the contact patch with the roadway.
Disadvantages: poor grip on any ice and packed snow.
According to the Rules of the Road, different tires cannot be put on one axle of a vehicle. This is considered a malfunction in which the use of a car is prohibited.
p. 5 of the Traffic Regulations of the Russian Federation: wheels and tires
At the same time, the rules do not prohibit installing tires of different brands and models on different axles of the same car, but it’s better not to do this. The car and all its systems are designed for the same tires with the same grip.
This is especially true for modern cars with many electronic assistants: stabilization systems, brake force distribution. You can drive on such a combination of tires, but no one knows how the car will behave in an extreme situation.
Like everywhere else, there are premium brands and there is something cheap. But cool brands have failed models, while budget brands have successful ones.
There is a lot of research and testing behind famous brand tires. Before entering the market, large companies test each new model in the most extreme conditions. Tires can be rolled on arctic ranges or in the desert.
Often, rubber is tested in the conditions of sports competitions and only then the technology is sent to the mass market. The more famous the manufacturer and the more expensive its products, the greater its budget for the development of new models.
There are also very cheap tires, often from China. They can directly write that they copied the tread pattern of a prestigious model, but this is not enough: there is also a rubber composition, cord design and other parameters.
Prices for tires of the same size may differ by multiples. The smaller the profile and the larger the width, the greater the difference.
To look at something other than the brand and choose what you need, there is an algorithm:
Specialized stores. There is a large selection, manufacturers' catalogs and competent advice. This will appeal to those who buy car tires for the first time or are simply not very interested in the technical side of cars. There is a service here - there will be a guarantee for tires, there is tire fitting and seasonal storage.
The one-stop principle works: you can arrive on spikes and leave on a new summer and with an empty trunk.
Online hypermarkets and warehouses. Rubber is sold by large Internet sites and small shops. The option is suitable for those who want to find cheaper, are ready to take risks and waste time for this. Here, the entire responsibility for checking the parameters of the tire, the date of its release and, in general, compliance with the order lies with the buyer. If something goes wrong, you will have to take all four tires to no one knows where and change them. Tire fitting and storage is the buyer's concern.
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How to save on car maintenance?
Flea markets, car club forums and ad services. Avito, Yulia and specialized automotive forums offer a lot of rubber. You can buy a completely fresh set at a good price, or you can buy rubbish and expensive. There is a great risk of buying tires with hidden damage: the fact that the tire is crooked will only be opened at a tire fitting, many hernias will be visible only on an inflated tire.
Sometimes the ability to measure depth and read parameters does not help. To put the correct year on an old tire, there is a special stamp. The tread depth can be machined, and a tire that is white from old age can be treated with ink.
With the help of special equipment, you can even remove the remnants of the old protector and stick a new one. It remains to hope for the reputation of the seller and look at the goods that he sells or sold. I try to avoid those who sell used rubber all the time.
First of all, the size. The larger the diameter, the more expensive. But at the same time, the lower the tire profile, the more expensive it is. This may seem counterintuitive, as less material is used.
Tire inner layers and construction play an important role. Due to the low profile height, the sidewall of such a tire must be much stronger than the same tire with a high profile.
Tire make and model affected. Rubber from large, famous brands with a century of history is more expensive, but the budget lines of well-known companies will allow you to save a lot.
Tires of young, unknown manufacturers, especially Asian ones, will cost even less.
Tires with runflat technology are more expensive than conventional tires, because their sidewalls have special requirements.
Is it worth buying retreaded tires? It is almost impossible to buy such tires for a passenger car in Russia in 2021. The cord design of car tires for projector restoration is not intended, unlike truck tires, for which this is a very popular service. In some countries in Eastern Europe, you can buy retreaded tires in popular sizes, but their properties are mediocre: long braking distances, poor handling.
When is the best time to buy tires? The popular theory that tires are best bought between seasons is no longer valid. You won’t be able to save money this way: the price of tires almost does not change throughout the year.
The tire business is seasonally cyclical, and it is not worth hoping for discounts on studded tires and its wide selection in June.
For the next winter season, it will be delivered in August, and summer tires in March.
But by the season, the freshest tires will be on sale. This is true for those who drive very little, or for sports tires. The fresher the tire, the better the grip will be: the rubber compound loses its properties over time.
Always make sure that your tire pressure is correct: it is critical to tire health. If you lose pressure, do not continue driving on an empty wheel: this may destroy the tire.
Try not to store tires and the car within half a meter of heaters.
Old tires cannot simply be thrown in the trash or buried. This is hazard class 4 waste, they must be disposed of.
GOST 12.1.007-76
Tires can be sold on Avito or other ad service. It will turn out if there is no serious damage and the tread depth allows them to be used further.
Old tires are readily picked up by a tire shop.
Free if the tread is enough for the season. If the rubber is completely worn out, they will accept tires for recycling and take 100-250 R for one tire.
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How to sell on Avito: put photos and ad text
Tires can also be recycled on your own. There are organizations that accept used tires for recycling and do not ask for money for it. It happens that they organize special collection points, containers, or come for tires.
Container for recycling tiresLADA
UAZ
Kia
Hyundai
Renault
Toyota
Volkswagen
Skoda
Nissan
GAS
BMW
Mercedes-Benz
Mitsubishi
Mazda
Ford
We took them into account and prepared a cheat sheet for all occasions.
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How do you know when tires are completely worn out and it's time to change them? Everything is simple.
For summer tires, the limit is 1.6 mm of residual tread depth, and for winter (or all-season tires used in winter) - 4 mm. Modern summer tires can travel from 40,000 to 70,000 km, depending on driving style and vehicle characteristics. An average motorist rolls such a mileage on summer tires in 2-3 seasons. Moreover, wear implies not only a decrease in tread depth. For millions of cycles of deformation, the strength of the carcass and its adhesion to the layers of the rubber compound are violated. In short, every 2-3 years you should buy a new set of tires.
In the event of permanent damage to one of the tires and a relatively high total mileage of the kit, it is also worth considering replacing it. Well, or about buying at least a pair of new tires, which, for any type of drive, should be installed on the front axle. We put two tires back - the most decent of the remaining ones.
Many motorists drive only a few thousand kilometers a year.
This does not mean that the tires will serve you for several decades. According to Russian requirements (GOST 4754-97), the service life of passenger car tires is 5 years from the date of manufacture. For example, Continental recommends that all vehicle tires (including the spare tire) over 10 years old should be replaced with new ones. Therefore, with small runs, you can navigate for ten years. The date of manufacture of the tire is indicated on the sidewall. Usually it is an oval with four numbers. The first two are the ordinal number of the week in the year, the last two indicate the year.
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Tires should be rotated periodically in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations - information on this can be found in the owner's manual.
We can advise you to carefully use the tires and, most importantly, to store them correctly in the off-season.
First of all, during storage, it is important to exclude direct sunlight from hitting the tires, which greatly age the rubber. Tires without rims should be placed vertically, and stacked on rims.
And before installing tires on a car at the beginning of the season, evaluate their condition. There should be no cracks in the tread and sidewalls. The tire should not be dry, it should remain rubbery and not look like baked plastic.
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Driving on badly worn tires - will I be fined or not?
Winter tires have a much shorter life span. They almost always fail due to the wear of the treadmill, because the tread of a new tire is 7–8 mm, and only 3–4 mm remain working height. If the tires are studded, then with such wear there are very few metal elements left, and the tire will not provide adequate safety when driving on a winter road. However, not only spikes, but also Velcro, with such a degree of wear, also lose most of their capabilities.
