How to clean out petcock on atv


How to Fix a Leaking Petcock Valve

One of the most annoying things to find when you go outside to ride your ATV is gas sitting on top of your motor, transmission or pooled on the ground. Typically you can smell it well before you even make it to your four wheeler or dirt bike and you know what you’re getting yourself into.. Some trouble. If you have any sense of do-it-yourself work, then the fix for this gas leak is relatively easy and can be done in 15 minutes with the right parts. Let’s begin!

1. Identify the Source of the Leak

The first step in fixing a leak, is finding where it is coming from. You don’t want to replace the seal on the bottom end of your carb just to find out you have a cracked gas filter. For the purposes of this write up, we are going to assume the gas is leaking from the petcock on your gas tank. More often than not, the issue originates from either the carburetor (see here for fix) or the seal on your petcock.

Symptoms

Gas on top of your carburetor or pooled on your transmission.
Less gas in your tank!

Test

Here is a simple test you can do to check for the leak. With gas in your tank, flip your petcock to ON. Wipe the petcock with a clean rag so that it is completely dry. Go inside and grab a drink. Check the petcock for fuel dripping, if so you’ve found the cause of the gas leak.

Draining the Gas and Removing the Tank

Drain the gas in your tank by removing the gas line to your carburetor and inserting it in a clean bucket or in a gas container. Turn the petcock ON and let the gas drain completely from the tank. Alternatively, you can remove the gas tank from the quad and then then pour the gas out of gas filler inlet. Typically, four wheelers have a plastic cover over the gas tank to keep it protected which will need to be removed first. All 3 of my ATVs have had a 4 to 6 screws holding the cover on the tank. At least 2 at the hood, 2 under the seat or the back of the cover, and then most utility quads have 2 screws I the sides of the cover. Once removed you should be able to see the bolts/screws holding the tank onto the frame of the ATV. Remove these screws and you should be able to remove the entire tank. Most air filter boxes will share the same space as the gas tank, so you may be required to remove it to remove the tank.

Checking the Petcock for Damage

Now that the tank is removed, we can locate the source of the leak. To start, remove the petcock valve from the ATV and inspect the seal. Depending on the age of the ATV, there will likely be some deterioration of the seal between the petcock and the tank. 9 times out of 10, the seal is not working properly which is letting gas escape and drip onto the ATV or floor. The other place to check is inside the valve itself. If the gasket around the valve ball is damaged, this may cause gas to leak past the valve and into your carburetor or (rarely) through the face of the petcock valve. In the photo to the right, the arrow denotes to the valve seal and the circles denote the screws needed to be removed to check the valve ball and seat.

Replacing the Seal

You have two options when replacing a bad valve seal. You can replace/fix the seal or purchase a new petcock valve. Price-wise, there is little difference unless you already have some RTV sealant (free), otherwise a new petcock will set you back less than $10 in most circumstances (See New Petcock Valves Here). To fix your existing seal, pick up some RTV from your local auto parts store. RTV is often used for auto parts sealant and is resistant to gas, oil and heat, so it is perfect for this fix.

Step 1: Remove the old gasket and clean the mating area on the gas tank and the valve. While RTV is gas resistant, existing gas or chemicals on either surface will prevent proper curing of the sealant and may create a leaky seal.

Step 2: Apply a bead of RTV to the petcock valve seat creating a solid gasket around the outer edge of the valve. See photo to the right. Ensure that the bead has no breaks which which prevent a seal around the entire valve. If needed, you can use your finger to smooth out the RTV to ensure adequate coverage.

Step 3: Reconnect the petcock valve to the gas tank and tighten screws to factory specs. Remove any excess RTV that seeps from the sides of the valve with your finger and a paper towel. Wait at least 24 hours before adding gasoline back to the tank.

Installing the Gas Tank and Checking for Leaks

Once the gas tank has been reinstalled onto your ATV and you have allowed 24 hours for drying time, refill the gas tank. Turn the petcock valve to ON and check for immediate leaks in the seal. Allow about an hour and check again for any gas dripping. If done correctly, you should be the proud owner of an ATV that no longer has a gas leak from the petcock valve! Go out and enjoy a ride. You earned it!

fuel petcock problem [Archive] - ATV Riders Forum

ATV Riders Forum > Sport ATV Model Information > Honda TRX 400EX & 400X ATV Info > fuel petcock problem


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Sparky_20

08-27-2007, 08:50 PM

i went to start up the quad today and it wouldnt run. I checked for fuel and I can only get fuel on the reserve position. I tried blowing air into the petcock with it in the "on" position and no gas will flow. What can I do besides replace it?


project400ex19

08-27-2007, 09:00 PM

Yeah mine did that for a while, just run it in reserve, im not sure what the problem is exactly, but it will run in reserve the same as it will on "on". It isn't going to hurt anything running it on reserve.


fastredrider44

08-27-2007, 09:01 PM

just be sure to always have plenty in the tank.;)


EX LONERIDER

08-27-2007, 09:15 PM

did you remove it from the tank and inspect it or just did a visual? if you didnt remove it, do so and check that nothing in the pivot is in the way and blocking it. then take some solvent and clean the inner screen... try running some oil through it too. mine sticks a little bit when it sits.


Sparky_20

08-27-2007, 09:59 PM

ill take the tank off tomarrow and drain all the gas out and look at the petcock. Im about to sell the quad so i want it to work perfectly


Sparky_20

08-28-2007, 10:36 PM

well, i took the gas tank off and removed the petcock today. The screen is free and clear and it looks as if the petcock is riveted together. If I turn the tank on its backside then fuel will run out if its in the on position, just not when its mounted to the bike. It will run out fine from the reserve position. I checked with honda and the new petcock is like 70 bucks! any other ideas?


project400ex19

08-29-2007, 07:36 AM

ebay, or sell as is, just let the seller know that it will run on reserve.


NacsMXer

08-29-2007, 08:24 PM

I was having the exact same issue with the petcock on my 400. I took it out of the tank, the screen looked pretty clean like you said. Anyways, I took the screen out completely and shot carb cleaner through every crevice while moving the petcock through all the positions. I then shot the heck out of it with compressed air from a blow gun in every position.

I never identified what the problem was but something had to be obstructing the "ON" circuit as gas would only trickle out in that position before I cleaned it.

I'd say try cleaning very thoroughly like I did because it solved my problem completely.


86 Quad R

08-30-2007, 07:55 AM

oddly enough. i've seen a slime type buildup develope in and around the petcock area, stopping up the system. as mentioned, ya can remove the plastic screen allowing better access for blowing it out with compressed air.


Sparky_20

08-30-2007, 11:40 PM

i replaced it and all is well now. Thanks for the input.


86 Quad R

09-04-2007, 07:24 AM

for future reference you can take those petcocks apart and clean them. over the weekend i worked on one that had the same problem.

very easy to do provided ya have a tap -n- die set.


JOEX

09-04-2007, 02:50 PM

Originally posted by 86 Quad R
for future reference you can take those petcocks apart and clean them. over the weekend i worked on one that had the same problem.

very easy to do provided ya have a tap -n- die set.
Why the need for a tap and die set?


86 Quad R

09-04-2007, 02:55 PM

because with the 400ex. the indicator/retainer plate that holds the selector switch in place is held in place with rivots. in order to re-fasten the assembly you'll need to drill and tap for screws.

the older generation pet cocks of this type were servicable and could be taken apart.


JOEX

09-04-2007, 03:02 PM

Originally posted by 86 Quad R
because with the 400ex. the indicator/retainer plate that holds the selector switch in place is held in place with rivots. in order to re-fasten the assembly you'll need to drill and tap for screws.

the older generation pet cocks of this type were servicable and could be taken apart.
Thanks:)

I've been wanting to take mine out to clean it. Hopefully I wont have to take it apart.


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≋ How and with what to clean the mixer. Exploring tools and methods • The main mistakes that spoil your faucet

Every housewife dreams of an ideal home - cozy furniture, modern home appliances, beautiful dishes and sparkling taps in the kitchen and bathroom. Agree, even the most expensive repairs in the bathroom or in the kitchen will simply fade if faucets covered with unsightly lime stains appear against the background of the original plumbing and elegant crockery. How do you clean a bathroom faucet and what products can make a faucet look like it just arrived from the store? You will find answers to these questions in our article.

Why Faucets Get Scaled

It's no secret that mineral impurities in tap water affect the hardness of the water environment and contribute to the formation of lime scale on pipe fittings.

To avoid lime deposits, follow the simplest rules for the operation of household plumbing, namely:

  • after using the sink or bath, rinse the tap and wipe it dry;
  • wiping plumbing from condensate that has appeared will help to avoid the appearance of dry stains;
  • monthly disinfection of the bathroom will help get rid of fungus and mold on all surfaces.

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These simple methods will help you avoid limescale problems and keep you healthy.

How to remove limescale from a faucet: basic mistakes

Before starting the procedure, you should read the following recommendations:

  • metal sponges can damage the surface of the faucets;
  • cleaners with large abrasive particles can spoil the appearance of mixers;
  • products containing hydrochloric, sulfuric or phosphoric acid contribute to the formation of dark spots;
  • Do not mix different cleaning agents to avoid unexpected results.

Compliance with these simple rules will help your plumbing to keep a decent appearance for a long time.

How to clean a kitchen faucet

Proven methods for cleaning faucets include:

  • using vinegar solution;
  • hot acetic acid;
  • laundry and baby soap;
  • table salt;
  • citric acid;
  • cola;
  • household chemicals.

To get the desired result, it is worth stocking up on a pair of protective gloves and patience. Consider each of the proposed methods and choose the most suitable for yourself.

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Acetic solution

The recipe is quite simple: ordinary table vinegar (9%) and water, mixed in equal proportions. It is necessary to moisten a napkin in the prepared solution and wipe the entire surface of the mixer. Then rinse the faucet with warm water and wipe dry.

Hot Acetic Acid

Solving the problem of how to wash the taps in the bathroom and in the kitchen, you should pay attention to a somewhat unusual, but very effective way to use the same vinegar. You should heat the vinegar, without bringing it to a boil. Dampen a cloth and wrap it around the faucet, leave it like that for one hour. Then rinse its surface with running water and wipe dry. The result will pleasantly surprise you.

Citric acid

This method of cleaning the faucet will take longer than the above, but its effectiveness is worth it. Prepare a solution consisting of warm water and citric acid (ratio 1:4). Unscrew the mixer and put it in the solution overnight. Then rinse under running water and wipe dry.

How to clean the faucet with soap

A familiar bar of ordinary laundry soap, familiar to us since childhood, can work wonders in cleaning faucets from limescale and stains, without requiring special material costs. Grate the soap (preferably marked 72%) with a grater. While stirring the chips in the water, bring the dissolved soap to a semi-liquid state. Put some baking soda in there. Dip a napkin into the prepared solution and wipe the faucet. Leave it like this for an hour, then rinse and pat dry. If you are wondering how to clean a chrome faucet, then you will not find a more effective and gentle way.

Works well on greasy stains, fresh limescale or soap streaks with regular baby soap. The algorithm of actions is very simple: rub a wet soft kitchen sponge with soap and wipe the contaminated places. Rinse with warm water, do not forget to wipe the faucet dry.

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How to clean a bathroom faucet with Coca-Cola

This is a fairly rare method for cleaning bath faucets, for example. However, the housewives note an excellent result from such a simple method. Make a compress with cola and put it on the contaminated area. The acid, which is part of the soda, will effectively remove plaque and soap stains without leaving any marks on the surface.

How to clean chrome surfaces

Chrome faucets look equally royal in the bathroom and in the kitchen. They will serve you for years, thanks to the strength of the material. However, their appearance requires constant care, as unsightly lime stains are especially noticeable on their sparkling surface. The main thing in caring for such plumbing parts is not to let them get very dirty. The more lime scale is visible, the more effort should be put into cleaning the faucet. And this can damage the surface and irreparably spoil the appearance. Ordinary laundry soap will do an excellent job of cleaning chrome faucets.

How to clean a nickel-plated faucet

All of the above folk methods are suitable for cleaning nickel-plated faucets. Laundry soap with the addition of edible salt remains an indispensable cleaning agent. However, there are a few tricks you can use to make your nickel-plated faucets sparkle.

A regular window cleaner and a tissue will do the job. Apply window cleaner to nickel-plated surfaces using a spray bottle and immediately wipe it dry with a cloth. With regular performance of such simple actions, the original appearance of your taps will remain for a very long time and their global cleaning may simply not be necessary.

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Bronze mixers have a special shine to clean.

However, over time, due to contact with water and moisture, they fade and lose their original luster.

A mixture of vinegar, salt and flour effectively cleans bronze faucets and restores them to their original appearance. To make the mixture, you need to mix one tablespoon of flour, salt and 6% vinegar. This mixture is applied to contaminated areas with a damp cloth, and then washed off with warm water. The final step is wiping with a clean, dry cloth.

A darkened bronze mixer brings ordinary tomato paste back to life. Cover the stains on your faucet for half an hour and then rinse with warm water. The result will pleasantly surprise you.

Linseed oil is an excellent anti-tarnish and darkening preventative for bronze faucets.

An ordinary lemon, cut in half and sprinkled with fine salt, will return bronze faucets to their former radiance and beauty.

Chicory powder has proven itself well in cleaning bronze mixers. The cleaning composition, consisting of three tablespoons of chicory and warm water, is applied to contaminated places, then washed off and the surface of the tap is wiped to a shine with a soft, dry cloth.

If these folk remedies do not help in the fight against plaque and stains, then a special paste - Trilon-B - will come to the rescue.

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Use of household chemicals

The shelves of household chemical stores are filled with all kinds of faucet cleaners. In order to use them correctly, it is necessary to carefully study the recommendations for their use. Looking for how to clean chrome from plaque? Both bleaches and removers are not recommended, or your faucet surfaces will be permanently damaged. It is preferable to choose liquid products, since they do not contain abrasive particles and cannot spoil the aesthetic appearance of plumbing parts. Don't mix different cleaners or you'll run into a new problem - how to get dark stains off the faucet. Be sure to use protective equipment when cleaning faucets with household chemicals to protect yourself from burns and other damage to the skin.

Thus, it should be noted that there are many ways to give kitchen or bathroom faucets their original shine and beauty. For this, both improvised means and household chemicals are suitable. However, special attention should be paid to the regular maintenance of plumbing parts, which will avoid the appearance of plaque and will contribute to the long life of taps and faucets.

What to do if your ATV won't start

You left your ATV in the garage on a trip or out of town, and when you return a few weeks later, you can't start it anymore. Common situation? Even after adding a spark and fresh fuel, the engine only stops for two to three seconds. What could be the effect? After all, before the ATV, he had no problems: it was enough to pass a periodic thorough inspection.

Don't panic: in this case, you can say with almost 100% certainty that the problem is only in gasoline, and not in ATVs. Like any hydrocarbon gas, Gasoline mixture is volatile and should not be relied upon for long periods of time. Some of its fractions evaporate, and the remaining gasoline liquid loses its ability to ignite and is no longer a fuel mixture. So your ATV didn't want to ride after a long break.

Causes of breakdown of the ATV and troubleshooting

No response starter after turning the key

  • Shut-off valve closed: open it or set it to the “reserve” position. There is old and/or contaminated fuel in the tank: empty the float chambers (small screw at their bottom), check if necessary if they are dirty and top up with new fuel.
  • The fuel vacuum valve does not open: remove the hose from it and crank the engine. If fuel is not flowing, the vacuum diaphragm in the cock or the suction vacuum line is probably to blame. Turn the valve to the PRI or Reserve position.
  • Clogged pipe or fuel cock filter: remove the pipe from the cock and see if fuel flows when you open it. If so, the secondary fuel filter is clogged and needs to be replaced. If not, remove and clean the faucet.
  • A flooded engine: remove the spark plugs and dry them, turn off the fuel cock, turn off the lights if you can. Fully turn the throttle and engage the starter - the spark plugs should be on the wires and on the engine. Don't touch the candles. Put them on and start the engine.

Why won't

start ATV
  • Air filter clogged: clean or replace.
  • No spark at spark plugs: install new spark plugs, check sockets, wires and ignition coils.
  • Fault in the ignition system or engine electrical equipment: check the connection and charge of the battery. Try to see if the bike starts on a different battery. Check the ignition system: the contacts are dry, the cables are in order, the ground is secure.
  • Compression ratio too low: Fault in loose spark plugs, worn piston rings, worn valve seats, or damaged cylinder head gasket. Check the tightness of the spark plugs and, if necessary, the engine compression. If it's still too low, check the heads, pistons and cylinders.

ATV does not start : Electric starter does not turn
  • Engine off - red light on the right side of the steering wheel.
  • Battery voltage is too low, i.e. characteristic chirping of the starter relay is heard: charge or replace the battery.
  • Dirty contacts in the ignition lock or starter button: turn the switch out and clean the contacts, use a special spray for electrical installations.
  • Main fuse or ignition relay blown: check and replace if necessary.
  • Starter failure, e.g. due to burnt stator or armature coils: contact a qualified technician.

Why

ATV won't start: Starter cranks engine slowly
  • Battery low or cables connected incorrectly: charge or replace battery, clean clips and terminals, check cable connection.
  • The oil is too thick: you bought an ATV in the fall and did not have time to change the oil? It's time for this.

ATV does not start : Starter works but engine runs quietly

Bendix is ​​broken or after inspection the starter rotates in the wrong direction in the wrong housing, the latches are connected upside down: have the mechanics check the starter (they will do this without removing it from the motorcycle).

ATV stalls : Starter relay clicks but engine does not start

Loose starter cord or short circuit due to broken wire: check connection, remove rust, check current with multimeter.

ATV

stalls : Engine starts hard, chokes, runs erratically and stalls frequently
  • Dirty fuel, rust in the tank, dirt in the fuel lines, in the carburetor: drain gasoline, clean tank and carburetor, fill with a fresh bottle.
  • Idle speed too low: increase it with the speed control knob.
  • Clogged fuel tank vent: Clean vent (plug) or vent tube at engine outlet.
  • Stuck line or choke lever causing engine to run too rich: Remove and clean this item.
  • The engine sucks left air due to damage to the carburetor nozzles: tighten the rubber nozzles and check for cracks.
  • Battery too weak: charge it, check all connections, remove tarnished cables, replace spark plugs if necessary, check ignition pipes or cables.
  • Incorrect gap between the electrodes or ground connection to the spark plug: check the type of spark plugs and their condition, set the distance between the electrodes, replace the spark plugs if necessary.
  • Open/broken wire or connector of ignition coil and spark plug tubes, incorrectly installed tube: Pull or unscrew the ignition wire, cut off a small piece and reinstall/screw. Make sure the tube is not rusted and the hoses are properly installed. The engine starts reluctantly, at low speeds there is little power.
  • Incorrectly set valve clearance, worn valve levers; Broken valve springs or worn camshafts: Check valve clearances and adjust them correctly, assess the wear condition of valve clearance adjustment bolts, valve springs and camshafts.
  • Burnt valve seats, worn valve guides, valve sticking: Check compression.
  • Damaged cylinder head gasket, bent or cracked cylinder head: Check cylinder head for oil leaks, note the color of the exhaust gases. On a liquid-cooled engine, white indicates damage to the cylinder head gasket.

The engine is weak and consumes a lot of gasoline

  • Air filter dirty, air intake system clogged: clean / replace the filter. Make sure that all air intake holes are not blocked and that air flows freely into the engine.
  • Ignition or electrical system failure: check that the battery is charged and properly connected, the ignition contacts are dry and the wiring is in order.
  • Too low voltage in the ignition system: charge the battery, check the condition of all connections, remove rust.
  • Faulty spark plugs: check the condition of the spark plugs; Check the gap between the electrodes, adjust if necessary, screw in new spark plugs.

Engine idling rough

  • Valve clearance too large or too small: set valve clearance correctly according to motorcycle owner's manual.
  • Improper mixture ignition timing: adjust.
  • Spark plug sockets or wires are not contacting the spark plugs properly: Pull/unscrew the spark plug wires, cut them piece by piece and reinstall/screw.
  • Ignition module failure: you will find if you try how the equipment talks to a properly working module from another motorcycle of the same type; make sure the ground connection is correct.
  • Out-of-timing carburettors: Adjust the carburettors with a vacuum gauge.
  • Incorrect idle adjustment: adjust.

Engine not running, exhaust gases black

  • Mixture too rich, carburetor out of adjustment, carburetor nozzles worn out and fuel level in float chamber too high: install new nozzles, install float, adjust carburetor.

Engine not running, exhaust gases blue

  • Too high oil level causes oil to enter the combustion chamber, the crankcase ventilation system transfers oil drops to the air filter container, from where it is sucked back into the engine: check the oil level with a dipstick or eyelet, clean air filter.
  • Worn cylinders and/or pistons, worn or broken piston rings: measure compression ratio; if it is too low, remove the pistons and piston rings and check the installation dimensions, replace, repair the engine.
  • Worn valve guides or stems: disassemble cylinder heads, check valve and guide settings; replace if necessary. Insert new valve stem seals.

Engine not running and overheating