How to fix a bent atv frame


Can frames be straightened? [Archive]

ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Steering & Suspension > Can frames be straightened?


PDA

View Full Version : Can frames be straightened?



nakomis0

10-25-2002, 11:56 PM

I bent the front of my frame. Where would i take that to get straightened? Or should I just buy a new frame? Tell me what ya think.

Its that front vertical bar. I circled it in the pic. ps. that isnt my quad pic.


trx400ex

10-26-2002, 12:08 PM

it all depends on how bad it is, although when i bent my frame, i left it, and it rode alot diffrent, but it was also the whole front that was bent..if it is very bad at all, a new frame would be the best bet


Castor-426ex

10-26-2002, 12:33 PM

someone on here fixed a twisted frame...it might have been sgaexer


10-26-2002, 12:38 PM

how did u manage to bend that? I would say just go for a new stock 400ex frame if your tight on money cuz aftermarket ones are rediculous


nakomis0

10-26-2002, 02:03 PM

Originally posted by QuadMX18
how did u manage to bend that? I would say just go for a new stock 400ex frame if your tight on money cuz aftermarket ones are rediculous

It bent because a truck hit me.

I'm probably going to be tight on money because it also bent my shock, a-arm, nerfs, steering dampner, bumber, and possible steering stem.:mad:

If I was to try and straighten it out, any advise on how I would go about this?

I did see at Service Honda, the frame was like $400-500 bucks + S&H which isn't to bad considering it is a whole frame.


10-26-2002, 02:07 PM

Originally posted by nakomis0
I'm probably going to be tight on money because it also bent my shock, a-arm, nerfs, steering dampner, bumber, and possible steering stem.:mad:

if i were u i would probably buy a new frame and get everything else used off ebay. I think that would be the cheapest and safest way to do it.


Sparks425Ex

10-26-2002, 02:45 PM

Well when ever you bend a metal and then bend it back you know that it is gonna be weaker and that will be the first thing to break/bend next tiem you flip or crash.

Call up like Atv shops that sponser people that ride pro and talk to them. My friend called up a place that sponsered a pro rider and got his frame. They just buy a 400Ex or 250R adn just take everything off the frame. Most the time they don;t even ride on the frames.

How did ya get hit by a truck?

Whose fault was it?

What was the damage to the truck?


NTPRacing#19

10-26-2002, 02:48 PM

yea thats all you didnt bend on your frame either, once your frame is bent that much the frame would be all screwed up, its called "diamonded" in other words not straight. If you look around your frame where the welds are painted look for wrinkles in the paint, you then can scrap that off with your finger nail and it should reveal new lookin metal ( not rusted color). that tells you that your frame has also been tweaked there


Dave400ex

10-26-2002, 03:44 PM

If you get a new Frame send it out and have it Gusseted and Powdercoated before you put it back together.


NacsRacing400

10-26-2002, 06:59 PM

I have alot of the parts u will need including a frame with subframe that is all gussetd and powdercoated, it is also strait, i will sell it togeth for 400. Also pm me if u are intrested in some other parts and ill give u a list


nakomis0

10-26-2002, 09:20 PM

NacsRacing400 I pm'd you.

"How did ya get hit by a truck?

Whose fault was it?

What was the damage to the truck?"

I guess it was my fault:rolleyes: .. I don't think so but... Lawyers say its to much "hear say" to take the case. And there was very lil damage to the 1978 beat to heck chevy.


lansing400ex

10-26-2002, 10:08 PM

Depending on how badly it is bent you could have a body shop straighten it. I'm not joking with ya either. If you know any one in a body shop it may be fixable. I've been working in car dealerships for over ten years as a technician. I've had the body shop guys fix things on the side for cash or a couple cases of beer. It just depends on how bad it is bent. I hope ya have a buddy who works in a body shop.


Extremeracer167

10-29-2002, 09:57 PM

Give Frank Grimplin a Call. 724-529-2121 He is the Open A champ, i know he can straighten frames. hes done a few utilities, and i know he could slick u up. Tell him Chad sent you. He is GREAT at what he does!!


Dave400ex

10-30-2002, 07:56 PM

If you get it straightened I highly suggest you have it Gusseted and then Powdercoated.


mesz1

10-31-2002, 12:24 PM

I have NEW 400EX frames for 475.00 or I can fix yours. Bob @ MeszMoto 1-877-374-0975


Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.1 Copyright © 2023 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.

how to check for a bent frame ASAP!!!! [Archive]

ATV Riders Forum > ATV Riders Mechanical Section > ATV Steering & Suspension > how to check for a bent frame ASAP!!!!


PDA

View Full Version : how to check for a bent frame ASAP!!!!



Tommy 17

08-19-2004, 10:12 PM

well after putting my quad on the wheelie bar and not lookin at it for about 2 weeks (still waiting on parts go figure). .. anyways i noticed that my right wheel is MAJORLY toed in... the left tie rod is bent for sure the right one don't look to be bent... now when i looked at it on the wheelie bar u can tell something is majorly bent bc my bars have to be 1/8 of the way turned so the right wheel is straight and the left is totaly messed up...

also the right wheel was not the wheel that came apart in the crash it was the left...

i think my frame is bent so how can i tell if its bent... what can i measure or check to make sure... i think when the left a-arm hit it may have pushed that side of the frame back and twisted it but i can't tell looking at it... what can i do to check if this frame is straight... i have 8 days till i leave for college and no time to really rip this thing apart... so if i could do it without the front end on it that would be perfect...

basically i need to know how to check for a bent frame... i'll get a picture in the daylight tomorrow....


BSTURDIVANT

08-19-2004, 10:34 PM

Visually look at the frame just behind the lower rear a-arm mount. If bent much it will wrinkle there!

You can get a accurate measurement by running a string down the bottom of the frame- rear to front. First measure the frame between the footpegs in the rear and mark the center. Do the same at the frame in the front where the outer frame taper stops (narrow point about 1' back from bumper). Anchor the string at the center point in rear and pull tight toward front bumper. When the string lines up on front mark(1' back), have someone measure front left and right of string. Measurements should be fairly equal. Probably has a bend spindle where hub bolts on.


Tommy 17

08-20-2004, 10:10 AM

k... i'll try that tonight when my dad gets home to help me with it...


08-20-2004, 01:42 PM

my frame is just like yours but prob aloot less..ii call it tweaked...anyways my front right tire is towed out....if you feel underneath the frame you can maybe see where it wrinlkes up like the other guy said...also... have your dad or someone help you set it up onto its grabbar (of u cant do i t by yourself,,,its difficult for me too) & then you will definately be able to tell if its as bad as you said it is. ..good luck & 400ex frames are a dime a dozen..my 450r frame isn't..:( stuff happens....be glad your not hurt & have fuin at college


Tommy 17

08-20-2004, 02:27 PM

its easy to get on the wheelie bar haha...

we measure the frame and we don't think its bent but we think it twisted the steering stem... so i have to take that off and check it out...


cletusEX

08-20-2004, 09:40 PM

I found out my frame was bent with a level. I stood the bike up on the grab bar and placed a level on where the bumper bolts up then moved the level back to where the oil tank bolts up. The frame was level at the oil tank but not level at the bumper. It is not really precise but mine was bent enough to notice a significant difference. This won't work all the time because both measurement might be unlevel due to the axle or grab bar being bent. But if they are different you know there is a tweak somewhere in the front of the frame. Hope this makes some sense.


Tommy 17

08-20-2004, 09:45 PM

i'll do that just to double check tomorrow...

been to tomahawk latly cletus??? i wanna go back bad but i don't have a quad right now:(


cletusEX

08-20-2004, 11:44 PM

Originally posted by Tommy 17
i'll do that just to double check tomorrow...

been to tomahawk latly cletus??? i wanna go back bad but i don't have a quad right now:(

Yeah I was up at Tomahawk a few weeks ago. It was really muddy but was still a good time. I might be racing a mx race there on Sunday but I just got my wisdom teeth, so I kinda have to play it by ear.


wvspeedfreak

08-21-2004, 08:14 PM

Hey Cletus or Tommy,is there an area for spectators at Tomahawk?I would like to go check out the race tomorrow.


cletusEX

08-21-2004, 08:54 PM

Originally posted by wvspeedfreak
Hey Cletus or Tommy,is there an area for spectators at Tomahawk?I would like to go check out the race tomorrow.

Yeah there is plenty of places to watch the race at Tomahawk. I won't be up there, I just decided to go out and play ride a little due to having my wisdom teeth removed on Friday. Have fun.


wvspeedfreak

08-21-2004, 09:07 PM

Thanks for the info Cletus.Good luck recovering from the dental work.


Woodsrider

08-22-2004, 04:14 PM

Im betting its a bent spindle, Mine was the same way. I did a lot of measuring of the frame, re-aligned the front end and everything I finally pulled the spindles off and looked at both of them and the left was bent. Mine was so bad that at one point, with the wheels cranked to left stop the back inner edge of the wheel was rubbing on the lower a-arm:o I was in a bind so to stop it from rubbing I welded a bead on the steering stem to lessen the turning radius on that side. This was a temporary fix to get me through a ride I couldnt miss. And I wouldnt reccomend it for any thing but that. I found a used spindle on E-bay pretty cheap.


JOEX

08-22-2004, 09:29 PM

Originally posted by Woodsrider
Im betting its a bent spindle, Mine was the same way. I did a lot of measuring of the frame, re-aligned the front end and everything I finally pulled the spindles off and looked at both of them and the left was bent. Mine was so bad that at one point, with the wheels cranked to left stop the back inner edge of the wheel was rubbing on the lower a-arm:o I was in a bind so to stop it from rubbing I welded a bead on the steering stem to lessen the turning radius on that side. This was a temporary fix to get me through a ride I couldnt miss. And I wouldnt reccomend it for any thing but that. I found a used spindle on E-bay pretty cheap.
Hey, Mike, at what location did the spindle bend? I have wondered about mine after a few hits, one you know of:p


Woodsrider

08-23-2004, 10:11 PM

Originally posted by JOEX
Hey, Mike, at what location did the spindle bend? I have wondered about mine after a few hits, one you know of:p

At the back where the tie-rod bolts on. It was shoved out almost an 1/8th inch:eek: Honestly I think the whole spindle may have had a little twist to it but thats where it was most noticable, and logically its the weakest point when your tire hooks a stump and slams hard to one side tossing you over the bars:o


2001-400ex'er

08-24-2004, 01:46 PM

When you guys say Tomahawk what state is that in? j/w


Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.1 Copyright © 2023 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.

Bicycle frame repair

Top 5 articles

  • -20% for Bicycle workshop services in February
  • Bicycle repair without leaving home!
  • 12 Developments That Revolutionized the Bicycle World
  • Bicycle garage
  • Speed ​​switch repair

The frame is the basic structural element of the bicycle, on which all other parts are mounted. Equipped with one or two pendants. It is designed for the intended use of the bike and reflects the style of riding constructively. Materials for manufacturing

The frame is the basic structural element of the bicycle, on which all other parts are mounted. Equipped with one or two pendants. It is designed for the intended use of the bike and reflects the style of riding constructively.

Frame materials:

  • 1 aluminum,
  • 2 steel,
  • 3 titanium,
  • 4 chrome molybdenum steel,
  • 5 carbon,
  • 6 magnesium.

Components:

  • 1 Front triangle upper tube,
  • 2 Lower tube front triangle,
  • 3 Head tube,
  • 4 Seat tube,
  • 5 Chain stays,
  • 6 Chainstays,
  • 7 Dropouts,
  • 8 Bottom bracket,
  • 9 Rooster.

Common bicycle frame failures

Bicycle injury problems can result from incorrect assembly or disassembly techniques, careless driving, accidental accidents. In case of severe damage, it is necessary to repair the bicycle frame in a special workshop.

Examples of common failures:

  • 1 kinks, cracks in the top or bottom tube,
  • 2 cracks, dents, deflections, breaks in chain stays and seatposts,
  • 3 breaks, frame misalignment,
  • 4 dents and bends in pipes,
  • 5 fatigue stresses, drop in frame stiffness,
  • 61 bottom bracket thread stripped.

Repairing this type of damage starts with disassembling the bike. First, both wheels and the saddle are removed, then the fork is disassembled, and the connecting rods are removed from the carriage shaft.

Minor pipe bends can be straightened out. This requires a specially made steel mandrel. Rigid metal frame tubes are not always straightened. The bent sections in this case are heated by a blowtorch burner. After straightening the pipes, the frame is checked for alignment. If a deviation of the seat or head tube from a single plane is detected, it is necessary to eliminate the misalignment. This is done using a vise and a steel mandrel.

Deep cracks, breaks and breaks are repaired in a more complex way. This work uses welding.

Carbon frames: possible faults

Despite the structural advantages and the expected long service life, carbon frames suffer damage under certain conditions.

Possible trouble options:

  • 1
  • 2 Breakage of the upper tube as a result of overtightened shifters and brake levers,
  • 3 deformation of the frame due to the application of an asymmetrical load during an unsuccessful landing after a jump,
  • 4 breakage of the middle section of the pipe due to a powerful impact on a stone or an unsuccessful fall,
  • 5 violation of structural integrity due to exceeding the permissible load,
  • 6 Carbon damage due to over tightening of bike carriers, eccentric tab,
  • 7 mechanical damage as a result of long-distance transportation of frames by mail or luggage.

If you have similar problems, please contact us. In our bicycle workshop you will receive a qualified repair of the carbon frame of the bicycle using the most modern technologies and equipment. We will help you not only fix the problem, but also prevent it. We always have in stock the necessary repair kits, carbon fiber, hardeners, resins and a special anti-gravel film to protect the frame from damage.

To place an order, call +7 (495) 123-22-23 in Moscow and +7 (812) 309-87-07 in St. Petersburg or leave a request on the website.

Read more articles

Repair of a bicycle spring fork
Repair of a bicycle footboard

What to look for when buying an ATV and a used snowmobile — FORMULA 7

Buying an ATV on a private ad is almost a lottery. Even an outwardly perfect copy with low mileage may have problems with the electrics and piston due to the fact that it was drowned in a swamp. Conversely, if an ATV with 6,000 km has been used carefully and maintained regularly, it will last a long time.

Buying an ATV or snowmobile from your hands, you can play it safe with a few simple rules. We will talk about them in the article.

Documents

Find out if the PSM and other documents are in order

First you need to find out if the documents are in order - this will help to avoid buying stolen equipment and other troubles.

To register equipment, you will need a passport of a self-propelled vehicle (PSM), a contract of sale, an act of acceptance and transfer. You can ask the seller for a certificate of conformity or issue it yourself - to do this, contact the dealer and provide him with the certificate number from the PSM.

Check the frame and engine numbers in the PSM and on the vehicle. Find out on the Internet exactly where the VIN is located on your model. On many ATVs, it is located near the front right lever. Also, do not forget to check the owner's data from the PSM with a passport or driver's license - if they do not match, the equipment may be stolen.

Ask the owner for details

Talk to the owner before inspecting the equipment. Find out why and how often it was used, what mileage it has. Whether it was regularly serviced and whether it was prepared for storage in the off-season - this increases the service life of the equipment. Specify which parts have changed and why, which systems require repair in the near future. Also find out the reasons for the sale.

If the owner admits that the ATV or snowmobile was in an accident or was used as a rental, then it is better to refuse to buy it.

Appearance

After talking with the owner, you can proceed to the inspection. As we have already said, the good external condition of the equipment says little. But a visual inspection helps to immediately weed out frankly bad options.

Due to design differences, ATV and snowmobile inspection procedures will differ.

ATV

ATV with a "boiled" frame is better not to buy

If the luggage racks are bent, most likely the ATV has rolled over. Deep scratches and rust, dents from stone impacts indicate a high mileage. Cloudy headlights are a sign that the ATV has been sunk. Tires worn only in the central part indicate their pumping. From this, the suspension suffers greatly when driving. Wrinkled discs are most likely damaged from hard landings, which are also bad for the suspension. Cracks, extensive corrosion, welding spots on the frame are a good reason to refuse a purchase.

Snowmobile

Pay attention to the tunnel - it should not have dents or signs of deformation. Snowmobile frames rarely break, but cracks can occur.

Check the condition of the tracks. A caterpillar with defects and damage will eventually have to be repaired. Worst of all, if the caterpillar is non-separable, it will have to be changed to a new one.

Inspection of the front suspension is very important as it bears the main load. Check the condition of the levers and ski racks. Make sure all suspension components are in place.

Measuring the diameter of the slides will help to assess their wear. The plastic fasteners of the slides break over time and need to be replaced. When inspecting, evaluate their condition and the need for replacement.

Technical part

After the initial check, you can begin to study the mechanics - the service life and the cost of repairing equipment depend on its condition. As with a visual inspection, the inspection procedure for ATV and snowmobile will be different.

ATV

Check shock absorbers for oil leaks

Suspension. Shock absorbers must be free of oil smudges and "walk" evenly. Raise the ATV with a jack and shake the wheels - if there is play, then the bearings are worn out. If the suspension arms play, most likely, you will have to change silent blocks and ball bearings.

Transmission. Gearboxes must be free of oil and cracks. Stand near the front of the ATV and turn on the 4WD button. Turn the left wheel with your hands - the right one should rotate in the opposite direction, and vice versa. With the differential locked, both wheels turn in the same direction. Transmissions should turn on easily and without extraneous sounds.

The engine must be free of oil. Turn the ignition key: a serviceable engine will start in 2-3 seconds. At idle, it runs smoothly and without extraneous noise. Black oil, black, white or blue smoke from the exhaust pipe and the smell of burning indicates a poor condition of the motor - most likely, expensive repairs are needed. Miscellaneous bolts or traces of sealant on the crankcase signal that the engine was taken apart for repair.

Electrical. Check the operation of the dimensions, turn signals, high and low beams, heating, winch and other equipment. Pay attention to the operation of the electric power steering - the steering wheel should not turn on its own.

Snowmobile

Check the condition of the CVT belt

Engine diagnostics. Snowmobiles usually have low mileage, but it's still best to check. The forums recommend measuring the pressure in the cylinders, although for this you will have to go to the service. Ideally, the pressure difference in the cylinders should be no more than 10%. To check the engine, it is better to ride a snowmobile and listen to its sound - if there are any extraneous noises in it.

CVT condition assessment. Check the coolant and oil levels in the gearbox. Pay attention to the variator belt - if it has cracks, dark stripes or scuffs. A worn belt will need to be replaced.

Check gearbox (on models where equipped). Remove the dipstick and examine the oil - metal chips will indicate heavy wear on the gearbox.

Suspension , as in the case of an ATV, should "walk" evenly on all sides. The electronic control units of the technicians are checked at the service center.

At a Glance

Used equipment is better to buy from an authorized dealer

When inspecting a used ATV or snowmobile, check the documents.


Learn more