How to fix tire ruts in lawn


How to Fix Ruts in a Yard After Construction

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Remember that moment when you realized you just ruined a part of your customer’s yard by using heavy equipment that left ruts in their lawn? 

Lawn and landscape damage, unfortunately, isn’t uncommon during roof replacements and construction projects. However, it’s something that a professional contractor will want to learn to avoid for several reasons. 

For one, using large equipment associated with construction and roofing that leaves ruts might mean frustrated homeowners who end up giving your company bad reviews. It also costs you time and money to make the repairs necessary to fix the relationship between you and your customer.

Nevertheless, ruts happen. In this article, we’ll cover how to fix ruts in a yard and how you can avoid leaving ruts in the future.

Here’s how to fix shallow ruts.

Ruts are basically soil that’s been compacted and needs to be loosened. They need to be fixed differently depending on their size–ruts 1-2 inches deep should be handled differently than ruts of 3-4 inches or deeper.

Following are two easy steps for best fixing shallow ruts: 

1. Loosen the soil.

To loosen the soil of a shallow rut, find the edge of the rut and push a spade fork into the soil at a 45-degree angle. Since it’s 1-2 inches deep, you shouldn’t need to dig far. 

2. Lift the soil.

From there, put pressure on the fork handle to lift the soil until it is an inch or two above the turf around it. Eventually, the soil will settle until it’s even with the rest of the grass. This should fix a shallow rut most of the time.

If this does not fix the problem or if the grass in the rut is damaged, you may need to treat it as a deep rut and follow the next set of instructions. 

Here’s how to fix deep ruts in a customer’s lawn.

Because there’s more damage than a shallow rut, deep ruts (3-4 inches deep or more) are harder to deal with and take more time to fix.  

Here are the basics for how to fix deep ruts in your customer’s yard:

1. Remove grass from the rut.

If some grass is still intact on the surface of the rut, use a shovel to cut around the edges of the rut and remove the grass. Make sure to include the roots when you remove the grass, so you can easily return the patch of grass after fixing the rut. 

2. Loosen any compact soil.

Take a shovel fork and loosen the soil that’s been compacted under the spot the grass was. This can be done in the same way as it’s done for a shallow rut (see instructions above). Loosening the soil allows the grass to take root well after being replaced or sown. 

3. Fill in the rut with soil.

Since the rut is deep, filling it in with soil will most likely be necessary. For this, you’ll want to mix soil with equal amounts of sand or compost. This mixture makes it easier for grass to take root and thrive. 

4. Replace and/or sow grass.

After filling in the rut with the soil mixture, replant the grass you dug out if it is still intact. If the grass has been damaged, you’ll need to sow new grass seeds. Make sure to use the same seed as what’s already been sown in the lawn to ensure there’s not a patch of strange-looking grass in your customer’s lawn. 

Avoid leaving tire ruts in your customers’ lawns

What if you didn't have to worry about how to fix ruts in your customer's yard on every other job site? Here are some clean-cut tips for avoiding ruts and a damaged reputation.

Don’t place roll-off dumpsters on the lawn.

Over time and use, a roll-off dumpster may sink into a yard. Removing a full roll-off dumpster from a customer’s lawn will most likely create deep ruts, not just from the dumpster but from the equipment pulling it out as well. This can damage your relationship with a customer, potentially leading to a negative online review for your business and extending the amount of time you’re stuck on the job. 

The solution? Don’t place a dumpster on the lawn. Instead, encourage your customer to reserve a space on the driveway or the curbside. Always communicate with your customer before the job begins to determine what works best. 

Use lightweight equipment.

Using lightweight equipment ensures that you won’t need to spend time worrying about whether or not you’ll need to stay after a job to fix ruts in the yard. It’ll also improve customer satisfaction, reduce out-of-pocket expenses, and get the job done faster. 

The Equipter RB4000 does exactly that. This self-propelled dump trailer is lightweight with extra-wide tires that help better distribute the weight in the container, preventing tire ruts in your customers’ lawns. 

The RB4000 streamlines debris management and lifts supplies to where you need them. This saves your workers from the physical stress of double- and triple-handling debris and carrying heavy materials up a ladder. 

Click the button below to see how else the RB4000 can help your company grow. 


Always be sure to do your research when investing in or renting equipment. Check out this comparison chart of roofing and construction equipment to choose which type is best for your everyday jobs.

Still have questions? Give us a call at 717-661-3591 to connect with an Equipter representative today.

How to Fix Tire Ruts in Your Lawn – The Lawn Mower Guru

There are a million reasons why you might find yourself with a tire track (or multiple if you’re unlucky) on your lawn. It may be your fault (did you mow when it was wet?) or someone else may have done the damage (neighbor or delivery guy pull their vehicle onto it?). But there certainly isn’t any point in crying over spilled milk. What’s done is done.

The good news is that we’re here to talk you through how to fix tire ruts in your lawn. We’ll go through the items you’ll need, when to do it and even give you some advice on how to avoid ever finding yourself in this situation again.

What You’ll Need

Before we explain the “how” let’s first outline what you’ll need to carry out this repair:

  • Garden Spade
  • Spade Fork
  • Edger or Landscaping Knife
  • Grass Seed
  • Topsoil + Sand or Compost
  • Garden Hose or Watering Can

When to Dig Out Your Tools and Make These Repairs

Thinking of heading out to the yard to get this done RIGHT NOW? Hold your horses! When you complete this job is also important. The time of year when you repair these ruts and tire tracks can have a big impact upon the chances of the grass prospering afterward. To have the absolute best chance of restoring your lawn’s beautiful appearance, you want to carry out this work when the grass is in what we call its “growth phase”. The timing of this phase can vary depending on the grass type you have:

  • Warm Season Grasses – Grasses in this category – Bermuda, Buffalo, Bahia, Saint Augustine, Centipede, and Zoysia are a few of the more common – have their strongest growth spurt towards the end of the spring period, before the hot summer weather arrives. This is the best time to fix those ruts.
  • Cool Season Grasses – Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, Fine Fescue, and Tall Fescue are a few of the more common cool-season grasses, and have their strongest growth phase early-fall.

If your lawn is damaged during the winter period, it’s not a good idea to try and fix the ruts until the weather warms up, as most grasses grow extremely slowly during this cold period and won’t take a foothold. Wait until spring at the earliest. If the damage occurs during summer, while not ideal, you can treat the area at this time of the year.

How to Fix Tire Ruts in Your Lawn

Now you know what you need and when to do this job, let’s talk about how to fix ruts in a lawn. We’re going to put these ruts into two different categories, as what you’ll need to do will differ depending on which type of ruts you have on your lawn.

  • Shallow Ruts (less than 4 inches)
  • Deeper Ruts (more than 4 inches)

Shallow Ruts

Most of the time shallow ruts are fairly simple to fix. Here’s how to do it:

  1. Take your spade fork and use it carefully to loosen the compacted layer of soil. No need to go too deep with your fork here, as there’s only a thin layer of soil that is actually compacted.
  2. Now find the edge of the rut with your fork, place it at a 45-degree angle, push it a little way into the soil and then push down on the handle.
  3. You should find that the earth and sod “raise” by using the fork to pry it up in this way. Continue until it’s an inch or so above the level of the rest of your lawn, as when it “settles” it’ll be at the correct level.

Deep Ruts

If a heavy vehicle went over your lawn, particularly if it was wet, and you’re faced with the issue of fixing deeper ruts, the process is slightly more involved, but it’s definitely still possible to return the lawn to its former glory. Follow these steps:

  1. Loosen the compacted ground first (this will make step 2 easier). Do this by placing the fork at a 45-degree angle along the edge of the rut again, but this time push the fork into the ground a bit more to loosen the compacted soil.
  2. Now you’ll need to get any grass that you can salvage out of the way so you can fill the rut in more easily. You can do this by taking either an edger or a landscaping knife and cutting down one side and each end of the rut. Make sure you cut through the thatch into the soil. Then use your fork to prize the grass up and fold it over onto the lawn. Now you’re ready to fill the rut in.
  3. Now the grass is out of the way, loosen up the soil in the rut some more, as that’ll give the new grass the best chance of taking root and flourishing.
  4. Grab your topsoil and some sand (or compost), and create a 50/50 mixture. The reason you do this is so the area will drain well and will be more resistant to compacting in the future.
  5. Fill in the rut with this mixture, making sure to not leave any gaps, and then fold the grass back down onto the freshly laid bed of soil, and press it down firmly so that the grass roots are in contact with the soil underneath (important). Ideally, once you’ve done this, the grass should sit just a little higher than the surrounding lawn. Once the ground settles, it’ll be level.
  6. More often than not you will need to seed the area too. Make sure to use the same variety of grass seed, and it can help to very carefully go over the area with a rake to ensure the seed is spread evenly. The most important thing to do after this is to water the area regularly to give the grass the best chance of taking root and flourishing.

And that’s really all there is to it. You’ll need to keep an eye on this area for a while to make sure it doesn’t sink below the rest of the lawn. If it does, you may need to follow the steps we’ve outlined for shallow ruts above to bring it back level. Or in the worst-case scenario, you may need to cut the sod up again and add some more of the soil moisture.

More Reasons to Fix Ruts When They Appear

Apart from the fact that a lawn full of tire tracks and ruts looks absolutely terrible, there are a number of other reasons to take action and fix them sooner rather than later. Such as…

  • Water Pooling – During periods of intense rain, the water will inevitably start to pool in these ruts, and because the soil at their base is compacted, it’ll have a hard time draining away too.
  • Grass Won’t Grow – Just look at the state those tire tracks have left your grass in. You really think it’s going to grow back? You could try seeding it in this state, but likely only a fraction will actually take root and grow.
  • The Peskiest Pests – Want more mosquitos around your yard? Stupid question. If you know anything about these critters, you’ll know that having pools of standing water around your property is not They’re breeding grounds for mosquitos!

How Do You Prevent Ruts in the First Place?

This article is obviously about how to fix ruts in a lawn, but the best thing would be to prevent them from ever happening in the first place! Here are a few tips:

  • Don’t Mow When Wet – One of the most surefire ways to create a nasty looking rut on your lawn is to either mow the lawn when it’s wet, or to drag other types of heavy machinery over it when it’s wet. The weight will cause these items to sink into the ground and create nasty marks all over the place. Don’t do it – wait until it’s dry!
  • Different Day, Same Pattern – Think about how you mow your lawn for a second. Do you always tend to follow the exact same route around your lawn? If so, you’re compacting the soil on each mow and it won’t have time to recover in between cuts. Instead, switch it up. There are many lawn mowing patterns. Go at your lawn from a different way each time, as this will give the ground that all-important recovery time and make sure fixing ruts is never on your “to-do” list again.
  • Aggressive Tire Tread – If you’re going to be tackling tricky hills with a ride-on mower, you may need a tire with a more aggressive tread that offers extra traction, but otherwise you likely won’t. The only thing they’ll do is cut through your turf and leave you wondering how to fix tire tracks in the lawn.
About Tom Greene

I've always had a keen interest in lawn care as long as I can remember. Friends used to call me the "lawn mower guru" (hence the site name), but I'm anything but. I just enjoy cutting my lawn and spending time outdoors. I also love the well-deserved doughnuts and coffee afterward!

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  1. Before You Begin
  2. Introduction
  3. 1. Decide when to renew your lawn
  4. 2. Determine the cause of your poor lawn condition
  5. weeds and salt
  6. 4. Prepare the soil
  7. 5. Water the lawn
  8. 6. Apply fertilizer
  9. 7. Plant the seed
  10. Recommended products

Practice Notes