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If the tire won’t come off after the lug nuts have been removed, there are a few steps you can take to get the wheel off. This post and video reviews how to remove a stuck tire yourself with a few simple tools and how to keep this problem from reoccurring.
In these examples the tire has an aluminum rim and corrosion is sealing the wheel to the brake disc.
4 Different Methods to Remove a Stuck Tire
With the vehicle well supported, tighten one lug nut and pull the tire off. The lug nut may prevent the tire from pulling off unexpectedly.
See this in the video above at 0:24.
If the above method does not work and the tire is still stuck, tighten the lug nuts on loosely by hand and lower the car to the ground. Lowering the vehicle and putting weight back on the wheel might pop it loose.
See this in the video above at 0:39.
At this point, if the tire doesn’t loosen, shake the vehicle from side-to-side.
See this in the video above at 0:59.
If the above methods don’t work, place a long pry bar to the back of the rim and try to jostle it free without hitting any brake lines or other parts.
See this in the video above at 1:26.
Once the wheel moves and breaks free, remove the remaining lug nuts and remove the wheel.
To prevent a tire from sticking, apply a dab of anti-seize compound and lightly coat the back of the rim. Spread and remove the compound with a paper towel.
If you do not have anti-seize compound, dip a paper towl into the motor oil and apply a thin coat to the back of the rim with the paper towel. Don’t apply too much so motor oil doesn’t leak onto the brakes.
Once the back of the wheel is coated, put the wheel in place.
Summary
Having a stuck wheel on your car can be really frustrating, especially when you got a flat tire by the side of the road.
Here are a few tips on how to remove a stuck wheel easily
You have a flat tire, and you jack up the wheel, but it refuses to come off. What could have happened?
Changing a wheel should not be this hard, but a wheel can get stuck due to rust accumulation. This corrosion appears in the area between the wheel and the hub. This makes it hard to remove the wheel because it feels permanently welded to the hub.
If you are changing the wheel alone and there is no one to give you that necessary muscle, consider some of the following tire removal tips.
If you leave your car in an area exposed to snow and road salt, then these elements can get into your aluminum alloy rims and into the hub, where they cause corrosion. These corrosive elements tightly glue your wheel to the hub, making it almost impossible to replace a worn-out tire.
It is not only aluminum wheels that have this problem. Steel wheels are also affected, and it can happen under any climate conditions after some time.
We recommend purchasing some synthetic grease to apply to the wheel hub and rim to prevent this problem from happening. Do this the moment you purchase a new car or during the first wheel replacement.
So let’s find out the best methods of removing a stuck wheel.
RELATED: What is Cross-Threading a Wheel Nut/Stud?
Here are a few tips from me, which I usually use to remove stuck wheels. Remember always to use safety equipment and get help from a professional mechanic if you are not sure about how to do it. Follow these steps to remove a stuck wheel:
Total Time: 10 minutes
If you are near a service station or a garage, you can use this simple trick to remove a wheel stuck on your car.
Loosen the wheel stud nuts but do not remove them altogether. Just loosen them 1-2 turns. Lower the car and drive a few feet forward and backward. Repeat this process on level ground. Jack up the car and remove the nuts.
The wheel should have loosened, and you should now be able to remove it. Ensure that when driving the car, the nuts are not so loose that they fall off. You should also drive very slowly, so as to avoid any accidents.
If you have aluminum alloys or steel wheels, then the likelihood of rust/corrosion developing on the hub is high. You can use a rust removal lubricant to loosen the wheel. For this procedure, first remove the wheel cap and spray the wheel studs. You can use lubricants like PB Blazer or Liquid Wrench.
After spraying the studs, do the same in the area where the wheel intersects with the central hub. Give the spray around 15 minutes, and then try to get the wheel loose again by giving it a slight punch or kick.
After jacking up the car, remove all wheel bolts or nuts except one. Use your foot to hit the tire while it is off the ground. Check that your car is standing on the jack stands safely. Rotate the wheel and hit it with a kick again. With continuous effort, the wheel should separate from the hub, and you can then comfortably remove it after unscrewing the last bolt.
This method of removing a wheel stuck on the car is better than using a hammer to hit the stuck wheel. The force from a hammer will destroy the wheel rim and bolts. Once you have removed your tire, use some sandpaper to remove any rust on the hub. The next time you re-install the wheel, apply some anti-seize.
While this technique is not safe, you can try it out when you have run out of options with a wheel stuck on the car. The first stage is to jack up the car. Before proceeding, ensure that the car is secure on the jack stands. Find lumber measuring 2X4 inches and place it in the space between wheel and tire.
Pick up a heavy-duty hammer and then get under the car. Place the lumber across the wheel and tire and use your hammer to hit the lumber. This will free up the wheel and enable you to carefully remove it from the hub. It is important to note that this method can be quite dangerous because you are under the car. If your jack stands fail, the car will collapse on you, killing you instantly. You also need to be quite strong to use the hammer effectively for this purpose.
This is the method I’m using myself, and it has solved this problem thousands of times. Spray some lubricant around the wheel hub and bolts if possible. Then place some protection on the rim at the point where you put the crowbar.
Get a long crowbar and put it between the rim and wheel spindle or control arm, depending on the best location. Check the image above.
You need to be a little bit careful with this technique, as it may damage the rim. However, it is an incredibly effective method that works every time.
If you have tried all the techniques mentioned above and your wheel is still stuck, you may be forced to take it to a tire service station. This is better than hitting the wheel with a hammer and destroying your bolts, hub, and rims. Just be honest and tell them that the wheel is stuck.
Having a wheel stuck on the tire is not a pleasant affair – especially when you are in a hurry. The main cause of a wheel stuck on the tire is when corrosion forms in the area between the rim and hub. This corrosive element acts like strong glue and can cause problems removing the wheel from the hub. There have been various solutions proposed to remove the tire, each with its set of pros and cons.
The easiest technique to remove a stuck tire is to find a lubricant and spray it into the spaces in the rim against the hub. The lubricant is effective in dissolving the rust formed.
You can also jack up the car and leave one bolt on the wheel. Use your leg to hit the wheel until it comes loose. Some people use a heavy hammer or torch to dislodge a stuck tire, but this can cause damage to the rims. It also requires some muscle.
Learn more:
Categories: Tires, Guides
Getting stuck in the snow, even on a flat road, is a simple matter, and getting out is a whole science about which we will tell in more detail.
You can imperceptibly get bogged down in the sand - the reason is the same. The car easily falls into the snow mass due to the small area of \u200b\u200bcontact of each wheel with the surface.
One square centimeter "passes" hundreds of kilograms through itself. The weight of the car pushes it into deep snow through these four points. If there is no solid support, the car will get stuck. Therefore, tracked vehicles, which are usually heavier than any passenger car, are so passable. In them, multi-ton weight is evenly distributed over a large track canvas. Crossovers have wider wheels, a larger contact patch, but because of their mass, it is also difficult for them to get out of a snowdrift. Sometimes a difficult section helps to overcome high speed, but there is a chance to fly into a snowdrift and dig even deeper.
What kind of snow do they get stuck in most often? Such statistics do not exist, but usually cars get trapped in the snow on a hillock, unsuccessfully trying to climb it, or dig a hole for themselves in deep loose snow, under which ice can hide. Old-timers say that it's too early to say "stuck" until the snow reaches the bottom. The time to think about your salvation comes at the moment when the car completely stops moving and “sits down”.
Watch your hands so as not to push through the delicate body in places not designed for the Russian winter and such assistance. 
There is a more civilized alternative in the form of special chains that are put on the wheel. They are mounted on the tire and give "tractor" traction. As an option, use plastic tracks, which are also sold in the store in case the stuck car refuses to go. Both devices are available in many options in stores, but you will have to find the best option for yourself. Read reviews, watch videos of car rescues. Please note: chains should be easy to put on and be with a strong lock like trucks. The difference between a dynamic sling and a cable is its ability to stretch. In the process of tension, the sling stretches and gains energy, which helps the stuck car to move out of the snowdrift.
At the same time, it is important to stop the “tug” in time. If it’s too early, there won’t be enough tension energy, and if you miss the moment, the puller will begin to drag back to the stuck one. It is necessary to press the brake at the moment of maximum stretching of the cable, which would transfer the power of compression energy to the “captive”. By the way, such a cable is often called “jerk” because it is pulled out with pauses for squeezing and unclenching, but it is more careful about the eyes of the machines, gradually increasing the traction force.
In the process of tension, the cable gains energy, as the line is pulled, the energy becomes more and more, and at the moment of maximum stretching, the stuck car is already loaded with the line enough so that the sharp load is enough for it to start moving. It also happens that the towing vehicle has already stopped, having chosen the entire stretch of the cable or stalled, and the stuck one has just started moving and, using the released energy of the sling, drove onto a hard one.
At the same time, the elastic of the cable minimizes jerky loads, which has a positive effect on the life of the towing eyes and frame and body elements, and, as a result, on the nervous system.
Many motorists do not know that tires should be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions, and not as the master wanted. A symmetrical pattern should be worn in the direction of the arrow and the inscription "Rotation" indicating the movement of the machine forward. On wheels with an asymmetric pattern on the sides, there are tips: "OUTSIDE" and "INSIDE". The first inscription means the outer side of the wheel, and the second - the inner, hidden from view. This is how tires should be turned. If the tires are set incorrectly, there is more chance of getting stuck because the tire loses some of its flotation.
Remember that every problem has a solution, and how quickly you find it depends on the number of useful things you have in your trunk on the road.
In a separate paragraph, we will write that the car, in addition to everything else, must be in good order, otherwise there is a chance to get stuck and break, and this is really bad.
So that the car does not bring surprises on time, service it at FAVORIT MOTORS service centers. We carry out diagnostics of the car between the seasons and give a full step-by-step on the shortcomings, the office needs to be corrected. Forewarned is forearmed.
January 13 Likbez Do it yourself
Follow these tips and you will get out of the snow captivity without much effort.
You can listen to the article. If it's more convenient for you, turn on the podcast.
Lifehacker arranged tips from simple to complex. But they can be used in any order and combined with each other, depending on the situation and the equipment at hand.
As soon as you feel the car start to get stuck, stop pressing the gas to the floor and calm down. If you can’t go forward, try to move back to get out on your own track.
Drive away smoothly, without sudden accelerations.
Do not gas hard and for a long time. Otherwise, the wheels will quickly dig in and the car will sit on its belly.
Ask passengers or bystanders for help. For starters, let them just press on the hood or trunk when you try to drive out. This will additionally load the drive axle and improve wheel traction. If it does not work, let them push in the direction of travel, helping the car to get out.
With a manual transmission, the surest way to get off is to roll to take advantage of the moment of inertia and pack the snow into the rut. To do this, align the wheels, engage reverse gear and move off, carefully working the gas pedal.
When the car moves, stop accelerating and let it roll back. Move gently again. Ride until the wheels start to spin, but don't let it happen.
The main thing is to feel impulses while moving and work like a pendulum. By repeating this simple maneuver, you will gradually compact the snow and, having broken a rut, you will be able to get out.
If there is not enough acceleration to overcome the snow slide, then, having driven back, turn on the first gear and move forward. So you increase the amplitude and roll out the platform on which you can accelerate and gain the necessary momentum.
On an automatic transmission, it will not work to the full extent: fast and frequent switching of modes R - N - D can lead to transmission failure.
Therefore, turn on the drive or reverse mode (depending on the direction of travel) and try to start off smoothly. As soon as you move away, release the gas pedal and wait for the car to roll back.
Then start again and roll away until you get out.
When there is a lot of snow and it is wet, rocking doesn't always help. In this case, it is necessary to free the wheels and the space around them. For this, a shovel is useful, which in winter it is advisable to carry in the trunk.
If you don't have a shovel, use your feet, a stick, a piece of cardboard, and other handy tools. Your goal is to remove snow from under the wheels and clear a track for them.
Be sure to check that the exhaust pipe is not clogged with snow. At best, the engine will stall, at worst, gases can enter the passenger compartment.
Sometimes in deep snow the car gets stuck due to the fact that it sits on its belly, and the wheels, having lost traction, literally rotate in the air.
The problem is solved by clearing the snow under the bottom.
If there is nothing to clean, you can jump on the door sills to pack the snow and lower the car. Another option is to raise the car on a jack and lower it sharply.
If you can't get off after clearing the snow, it means that the wheels do not have enough grip on the ground. To ensure it, it is better to use special anti-slip tapes. But if they are not, any means at hand will do. Place a jacket, branches, rubble - whatever you find in the trunk or around the car under the drive wheels.
It is worth laying mats, as some recommend, only if they are textile. Rubber will fly out from under the wheels as soon as you press the gas.
By the way, be careful. Anything under the wheels can fly out from under them when the car starts moving.
This will help increase the contact patch with the surface and, as a result, the grip of the wheels.
Unscrew the spool cap and press the valve stem with keys or other thin object.
Flat tires reduce ground clearance. If there is a lot of snow, it will only hurt: the car will sit on its belly.
Pressurize to approximately 1 bar. Without a pressure gauge, you can visually determine a flat tire by a slight flattening.
Do not overdo it, otherwise, under the weight of the car, empty tires can inadvertently be disassembled from the rims. Also, do not get carried away too much if you don’t have a compressor or booster pump at hand.
Another effective way to increase grip. If there were no real chains in the trunk, try making homemade ones from improvised materials. Take a rope or tow rope and wind it around the drive wheels in the manner of chains. The main thing is to secure them well so that they do not unwind and damage the brakes and suspension parts.
Even on summer tires with such improvised chains, it is almost guaranteed that you can drive out of any snow.
Due to the increase in adhesion to the surface, patency will be significantly improved. But you should be careful with the gas pedal, because with such wheels the risk of digging deeper also increases.
If you can't get out because the car is too deep, you can try jacking it up. To do this, clear a place for the jack and find some kind of plank, stone or other lining made of hard material so that the tool does not go into the snow or ground.
Next, alternately raise the car on each side and fill with something the holes formed under the wheels of the drive axle. Gravel, sticks, branches and any hard objects will do. After that, the stuck wheels will be on the surface and the chances of getting out of the snow captivity will increase significantly.
Feel free to ask for help when you can't get out on your own. If the place is not deserted, and there is a cable at hand, there will certainly be those who want to help.
Not all ropes are suitable for pulling out of snowdrifts. Ordinary tape slings often do not withstand the load and break. Steel cables, on the contrary, are too strong and can easily tear out the towing eyes or deform the body.
Even for small cars, it is better to use special dynamic or, as they are also called, jerk lines, which elongate when stretched and compensate for sharp shocks.
Check that the cable is securely fastened to the towing eyelets and be sure to throw a jacket, some kind of bag or bag on it so that in case of a break the cable does not fall into one of the cars.
With the machine stuck, turn the wheels straight out to reduce drag. Later, when you get moving, the steering wheel can be turned in the right direction. When pulling out, help with your engine, but do not throttle hard so as not to dig in. It's better to act like you're starting off.
On the towing car, it is worth turning on a lower gear and all available locks, first trying to move into tightness.
If the snow is deep and the machine is firmly planted, jerks are inevitable. Then the puller should accelerate a little and stop, acting as an anchor. The dynamic cable will stretch and move the stuck car off the dead center. Maybe not on the first try, but in the end it should work.
To prevent damage to the machine by a nearby tree or fence, form a compacted track with the snow to prevent it from turning and slipping.
If all else fails, call for help. Call your friends, write a post on social networks or leave a mark on the map. Get back on the road and ask the truck drivers for help. If there is a settlement nearby, go there.
In really difficult situations, when you find yourself in the middle of nowhere and there is no one to wait for help, contact the emergency services and call rescuers at the single number 112.
Do not overestimate your capabilities: frivolity can cost your life.
As a rule, all the troubles happen precisely because of bad tires. 
