Don’t let losing or forgetting your ATV key stop you from enjoying your quad. In this article, I’ll show you a few ways to start your ATV or UTV without the key. You can do any of these methods with basic hand tools found in most garages.
Your ignition switch is simply a break in a circuit telling your electrical box when it’s ok to start or not. When there’s no key in the ignition, no power can be sent to the rest of the needed components to start the engine. There are some pretty simple ways to get around this though.
Of course the easiest way is if your machine has a pull start or kick starter on it. A lot of the newer quads being made don’t have this functionality anymore unfortunately. If you do have this option, simply unhook the ignition switch from the cdi or electrical box. That way the engine will start without needing a key inserted, then start the engine.
This method may work without a pull start or kick start if you can push your machine to a good pace and pop it into gear. Your other options are:
This is my preferred method to starting an ATV without the key. Most ignition switches will only have two wires going into it. On wire is sending power in, and the other wire sends power to the electrical box if the key is inserted. Telling the machine that it’s ok to start.
Simply remove the ignition switch from the equation. You can disassemble the switch or just cut the two wires leading to it. Be sure to leave enough slack in the wire just in case you want replace the ignition switch later on.
Now connect the two wires and your electric start should work like always. Remember to connect the wires on the side leading to the engine not the side leading to the ignition.
You have to remember to disconnect the two wires when you’re done riding or you’ll drain the battery dead.
I would recommend you put a simple switch here in place of the ignition, a simple on/off switch will work perfect.
Some of the newer quads have more than two wires coming out of the ignition switch, not to worry. A lot of times there will also be a ground wire or something like that. The two wires you should focus on are red and black. Cut those two wires and tape them together. Make sure you tape together the ends of the wire leading to the engine not to the ignition.
You may also see a black with white stripe and green wire. These two wires are shorted together when the key is in the off position. You will need to open that short by cutting the black with white stripe wire and tapping off the end.
Once the black with white stripe is cut and taped, and the red and black wires and spliced together and taped. You should have power to your quad as if the key was turned on. You can use your normal electric start and everything the way it is.
Remember to disconnect the black and red wires when you’re done to avoid killing the battery.
You could also tape the black with white stripe wire back together to prevent anyone from easily starting the quad.
This doesn’t work on all ATVs, only machines with an electric start option only. Your solenoid should be near your battery and wiring harness. On some quads you have to remove a side panel to access it.
Your solenoid will have two main wires coming out of it and possibly some other smaller ones, we only care about the two big wires. You need to lay a wrench or something metal across the two connectors of the main wires. Then, you should be able to start the quad.
I don’t use this method myself because you have to be real careful the wrench or piece of metal is not touching anything else that could short it out. If you accidentally touch the frame or something when doing this, you could cause damage to your electrical parts of the engine.
Desperate times call for desperate measures, and that’s what this method is.
This trick is mostly used by thieves, so if you’re driving around the trails with a screw driver sticking out of the ignition and get stopped by trail enforcement, be ready to get asked some questions.
Basically you just hammer a screwdriver into the ignition and turn it on as if it were the key. The screwdriver will brake the pins in the lock allowing you to turn the ignition on.
I don’t recommend this method because you could damage the ignition and not get the quad to start anyway. And even if you are successful, you’re now riding around with a screwdriver sticking out.
This is obviously the best method in the list. Of course if you forgot your key and you’re already way out on the trail, then there’s no way you can order a part and do the replacement. This is more for someone who lost their key, or broke their ignition trying the screwdriver method.
Here’s a decent Replacement Ignition Switch found on Amazon to help get your search started.
If you can find a replacement from the manufacturer for your specific machine, that would be the best route, but probably a lot more expensive.
One thing I want to mention is that it’s always best practice to tape up any wires you cut and exposed. You may have gotten the hotwire job done correctly, but if any of those wires hit the frame and short out you could have bigger problems.
Leave enough slack in the wires to work on them again later on. Try to avoid cutting the wires to the ignition real close to the ignition itself, or somewhere that makes it hard to get to the wires. You may want to work on it later on, like putting in a new ignition switch or on/off switch.
Don’t tell everyone how easy you hot wired your quad and how you did it. Maybe you’ll be safe to do this, but I lean a little more to the cautious side when it comes to my machines.
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#81
16 Mar 2020 2,528 views
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#7
Jan 24, 2018 295 views
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#5
Jan 24, 2018 1,366 views
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#3
Jan 19, 2018 975 views
There is an answer
#1
Jan 19, 2018 1,367 views
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#89
2 Apr 2018 473 views
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#87
Jan 30, 2018 516 views
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#79
Is it possible to break in the DT9.
9AS motor in a barrel with the gear engaged at idle with a change of water to cold?
30 Jan 2018 1 886 views
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#75
Please tell me, is the repair of the outboard motor during the warranty period at an authorized dealer a free service or partially (perhaps completely) must be paid by the buyer? Partial payment is understood as payment for spare parts or for the performance of work to replace them?
Please tell me if it is possible to replace spark plugs, engine oil and gearbox oil during the warranty period. Is this a violation of the rules for the operation and maintenance of the product (motor).
Jan 29, 2018 1,099 views
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#73
Includes Suzuki DF300APXX motor and Raymarine eS128 multifunction display. At the moment, the display (eS128) shows the following data: engine speed, temperature and fuel consumption.
Please tell me what other data I can get from the engine and display on the eS128.
29 Jan 2018 328 views
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#71
I own a 2011 SUZUKI DT30S outboard motor. I want to install a battery in a boat. I can't get good advice anywhere. Do I need to install a rectifier in the motor?
29 Jan 2018 770 views
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#69
Does the Suzuki DF60 or DF70ATL motor have NMEA 2000 connection format? If yes, what engine readings can be obtained on the chartplotter?
I hope for a positive and capacious answer. I looked around a lot of resources - I did not find this information. Any links?
Jan 29, 2018 947 views
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#67
Bought a new 2015 Suzuki DF140 engine. key (turn counterclockwise). Please send step-by-step instructions on how to link the chip key fob with the launcher.
Thanks a lot!
29 Jan 2018 206 views
Answered
#65
I purchased a SUZUKI DF15AS outboard motor. Is it possible to withdraw electricity to charge the 12V battery?
Jan 29, 2018 761 views
Answered
#63
New boat fitted with Suzuki DF30ATS
Where can I see a detailed description of the new multifunctional control device advertised on your website?
Can you recommend a simpler branded multifunctional device? The minimum set of parameters for control: engine speed, trim, engine hours.
29 Jan 2018 403 views
Answered
#61
I need to set a fuel write-off rate for a 2015 Suzuki DF115 outboard engine.
Does the manufacturer report the average fuel consumption?
29 Jan 2018 1,151 views
Answered
#59
Since the start of operation of the Suzuki DF90A engine (both during break-in and now), the oil level has increased.
January 15 engine. I ask the seller - they explain it with bad gasoline, bad candles. Maybe you need to analyze the oil for impurities?
Jan 29, 2018 637 views
Answered
#57
The instructions for the Suzuki DF2.5 engine (2013) say that 380 ml is poured into the crankcase. oil, the level is controlled visually through the viewing window according to the risks "min" - "max". When changing the oil, 320 ml was poured into the crankcase. oil, while the viewing window was completely filled (above the upper mark). Before changing the oil, the motor was installed vertically (deadwood).
The question arises, what should one focus on when changing oil: on the sight glass marks or on the volume indicated in the instructions? And is the amount of oil filled in enough for normal engine operation (320 ml.)?
Jan 29, 2018 590 views
Answered
#55
What oil to use in the Suzuki DT9.
9AS engine? TC-W3 semi-synthetic or mineral?
In a new engine (out of the box), is the gearbox filled with oil?
29 Jan 2018 1,079 views
Answered
#53
Jan 29, 2018 343 views
Answered
#49
When purchasing a Suzuki DF9 engine.9BS from an authorized dealer in St. Petersburg, the dealer gave me a gear oil for this motor - "YAMALUBE Outboard Gear Oil GL-4 SAE 90". However, the instructions for the motor say that a GL-5 grade is recommended for gear oil. Can I use YAMALUBE Outboard Gear Oil GL-4 SAE 90 or do I have to buy GL-5?
Jan 26, 2018 810 views
Answered
#47
26 Jan 2018 973 views
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#45
Got a new Suzuki DF5S motor. I ran it on 95 gasoline, but familiar experienced water motorists say that supposedly only 92 gasoline should be used, since 95 is detrimental to the rings.
Please answer on which gasoline it is better to operate this engine, and is it possible to fill the engine with 92 gasoline after 95?
Jan 26, 2018 1,913 views
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#43
Please tell me if it is necessary to drain the oil when transporting the DF9.9BS engine in a horizontal position on the tiller?
Jan 26, 2018 718 views
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#41
Jan 26, 2018 596 views
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#39
During the operation of the Suzuki DT9.9AS engine, I noticed that when the engine is idling and running, no water comes out of the water outlet control hole. From the water ejection hole, which is lower, water flows. Could it be envy from the engine warming up?
Jan 26, 2018 1,053 views
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#37
Please tell me what the error code on the outboard motor SUZUKI DF140 means.
The CHECK ENGINE sensor blinks 2 times and after a second 3 times. A beep sounds once every few seconds.
Jan 26, 2018 797 views
Answered
#35
Jan 26, 2018 187 views
Answered
#33
I have a Suzuki 115 engine on my boat. Recently, when I turned on the ignition, the tachometer needle stopped deviating and showing the number of hours worked. The sound signal is present, the Rev limit light comes on, although it seems to be dimmer than the others. What is the reason?
Jan 26, 2018 591 views
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#31
Jan 24, 2018 657 views
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#29
I have a question about the hydraulic lift of the Suzuki DF30ATS outboard motor: is it possible to adjust the position of the motor while driving? I was told by one of your dealers that the hydraulic lift only works at idle and is used to raise/lower the motor when approaching the shore.
At the same time, I saw in one of the commercials (it seems to be an Italian video), where the navigator changed the trim angle of this motor on the go.
And the second question: how will the motor leg behave in case of collision with an underwater obstacle. A motor without a hydraulic lift has an "emergency" tilt, but how is this implemented on a hydraulic lift? What is the "free play" of the kickback?
Jan 24, 2018 645 views
Answered
#27
For trolling on a CRESRLINER cabin boat (length 7 m. 40 cm) a minimum speed of 4 km/h is required. Is this possible on the new SUZUKI DF200A engine? I want to note that on the HONDA-BF225, the minimum speed could be lowered to 6 km/h, which did not allow trolling on this motor. SOS, give advice!
24 Jan 2018 374 views
There is an answer
#25
Is it possible to increase the power of a 2010 Suzuki DF90 outboard motor to 115 hp? If yes, what is needed for this?
24 Jan 2018 684 views
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#23
The idle speed range is out of range - regular 770-830, but in fact 740-860.
How to field tune a Suzuki DT9.9A engine
Jan 24, 2018 528 views
Answered
#21
I bought a Suzuki 9.9 hp motor. from an authorized dealer in our city. My question is, will the motor be removed from the warranty if I blow it up to 15 hp myself?
24 Jan 2018 1,099 views
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#19
I want to buy two Suzuki DF70ATL motors for twinning. Do not tell me, these motors come with right and left rotation of propellers? And do you have equipment for pairing two motors?
Jan 24, 2018 271 views
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#16
I bought a new Suzuki DF70ATL
motor Everything is fine, everything is fine, but the trim sensor (motor lift) does not work. When the ignition is turned on, the arrow goes up. I have not the first motor, I have an idea how to connect cables to sensors.
Yes, and it is impossible to confuse there. Maybe under the cap on the motor itself, something needs to be reconnected to a different connector?
24 Jan 2018 276 views
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#13
Jan 24, 2018 162 views
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#11
Jan 24, 2018 472 views
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#9
In June of this year, I happily purchased a new 4-stroke Suzuki DF6AS outboard motor from an official dealer in Arkhangelsk.
During the break-in, the following problem was revealed - when starting the starter (cold, hot - no difference), the handle twitches back strongly. Once I even broke my knuckle on the lid, although I do everything according to the instructions (which I studied in detail) - I set the gas handle to "gas for neutral", pull out the choke, slowly pull the starter cord all the way, then pull it sharply.
It runs fine, by the way.
I ran the engine in quite quickly - in July I already brought it to TO-1, where I explained the problem in detail. The service promised to look and, if necessary, adjust the starter. When I picked it up from the service, they explained that everything was fine with the starter adjustment, but these motors have problems with compression. Therefore, after I pull the starter cable all the way, I also need to turn the starter once. I tried it on my last fishing trip. Does not help! He still often "kicks", sharply pulling the handle towards himself. You have to start the engine in the process of fishing often and every other time such a problem.
Please help! The motor was really waiting, I bought it first in Arkhangelsk (the first of the first delivery of the updated line), but here is such a problem. I "smoked" the forums - someone had such a problem with another motor (Chinese), but nothing was solved. I'm afraid that with such an abnormal start, the starter will fall apart ahead of schedule and how can I then prove that I have already pointed out this problem in the service so that the repair (pah-pah, of course) is guaranteed?
24 Jan 2018 908 views
Answer available
While looking for a car in the parking lot, I often pressed the key buttons.
When I found it, the locks no longer responded to the radio, I opened it manually, I thought the battery had run out for 4 years. I changed the battery but it doesn't work! What could be the issue? can something burn or block in this system? how to check before returning to the service?
Answer: The native key with buttons does not work
Dzin wrote:
While looking for a car in the parking lot, I often pressed the key buttons.
When I found it, the locks no longer responded to the radio, I opened it manually, I thought the battery had run out for 4 years. I changed the battery but it doesn't work! What could be the issue? can something burn or block in this system? how to check before returning to the service?
Click to expand...
Disassemble the key fob, look at the buttons, maybe the button is just broken and there is no contact. Rarely do they break. If you change, then just buy a used set of controller and key insert with buttons. You can replace it yourself. The controller is located on the left under the torpedo on the left wall of the body.
Answer: The original key with buttons does not work
and the immobilizer chip? can it be transferred from the old key to the new one?
Added after 7 minutes
and that's it! Found the chip! thanks .
.
there are two buttons, two cannot break at once ...
I still have hope that I bought a dead new battery ...
Answer: The native key with buttons 9 does not work0388
Dzin wrote:
I still have hope that I bought a dead new battery...
Click to expand...
I broke off like that in the winter, I also bought a new one, but the key does not plow, I also thought hello to the block, ran home and took it out of the device and here it is happiness, everything worked.
Answer: The native key with buttons does not work
Dzin , It may be necessary to learn the key. I had this, here's what I did (it looks like shamanism, but it helped). :thumbsup:
1. Get into the car, the doors are closed
2. Open the driver's door. Turn on the ignition and within 10 seconds. turn off and remove key
3. Within 20 sec. press and release the button on the driver's door 3 times
4.
Within 10 sec. insert the key, turn the ignition on / off and remove the key (in my opinion, after that the central lock will "twitch")
5. Within 10 sec. press the Unlock button (buttons on the doors up and down)
6. End
Preparatory operations: study the plan of action, with the left hand find the button on the door until automatic
That's where infa
comes from http://www.suzuki-club.ru/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=26094&stc=1&d=1303
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Answer: The native key with buttons does not work
Wow! Thank you, I will try, otherwise I haven’t tested the option with a bad battery already .
.
Something doesn’t work ... let’s take a closer look:
1) are the doors closed simply or with central locking?
2) open physically wide open or unlock the lock. Within 10 seconds, extracting it means waiting in the wound state for a few seconds or starting it and immediately drowning it out? - or wait, for example, until the checkenzhin goes out?
3) The button on the driver's door has two places to press: Open / Close the central lock (is this the button on the armrest with a picture of the door?). To press in any place or alternately, or am I not thinking about that button at all?
How was it in practice with details, if possible, tell me, I really want everything to work for me in the end.
Answer: The native key with buttons does not work
alekse1 ,
Have you tried it yourself? I think not.
..
Pay attention to the inscription in the upper right corner of the scan. - SUZUKI Wagon 3+.
It won't work for Liana.
Answer: The native key with buttons 9 does not work0388
Well, a person writes that he did something like this on Liana, so I ask you to share your practical skills.
In general, this procedure is recommended for many suzukwon on the Grand Vitara forums, the same procedure for key programming is given.
: Programming When Remote control buttons operated repeatedly while vehicle out of range and system becomes inoperative. System malfunction.
That is, I correctly understood the translation that there are mechanisms for blocking the system when the buttons on the key are pressed repeatedly and reprogramming is required after that?
It hasn't worked out on my vine yet.
Answer: The native key with buttons does not work
Dzin wrote:
In general, this procedure is recommended for many suzukwon on the Grand Vitara forums
Click to expand .
..
On the GV, it is possible to programmatically turn on the low beam all the time ...
But on the Lianas there is none.
Answer: The native key with buttons 9 does not work0388
All the same, I have a chance that the controller did not fly, but simply the electronics require pre-configuration, does anyone know? If no one tells me, I will call the masters to the officials - maybe they will tell me.
SchA Service MANual I will find, I will read.
Answer: The native key with buttons does not work
Serpent Potapych wrote:
alekse1 ,
Have you tried it yourself? I think not...
Pay attention to the inscription in the upper right corner of the scan. - SUZUKI Wagon 3+.
For Liana, this will not work.Click to expand.
..
Serpent Potapych, of course, tried it, but today in the morning I decided to try it. It’s not my fault that I had such a problem, I decided to find a solution to it on the internet, on Russian-language sites dully, somewhere by chance in English I found it on the liana, and it was with the leaf on which Wagon is written, which I posted. I just wanted to help a person, if something did not work out, then he still had a way to the officials. Here is video
http://narod.ru/disk/12135751001/Video(028).mp4.html
on the 22nd second after the key is removed, the locks work, and after pressing the key button they work again (with the door open, mind you). True, the key was registered today.
Reactions: 3 persons
Answer: The native key with buttons does not work
Serpent Potapych wrote:
Pay attention to the inscription in the upper right corner of the scan.
- SUZUKI Wagon 3+.
It won't work for Liana.Click to expand...
Let me, like alekse1 , disagree with this statement, and post the procedure from the service manual on the liana. There too most write about registration of keys. So to our joy, everything should work.
p.s. also, many do not know that it is possible to self-diagnose the air-conditioning-stove system. Only this, as I understand it, only works with climate control.
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Answer: The native key with buttons does not work
thanks! it really worked, it didn’t work the first time, because I did not immediately understand that the button should be pressed on the doorway, and not on the left armrest of the driver.
conclusion: the central locking system is blocked by multiple pressing of the key buttons outside the radio access zone of the central locking controller. It is treated by shamanism, described here above.
Ignition key from Aerio to Liana?
Hello!
There is an ignition key with buttons from Aerio.
It does not become attached to Liana's immobilizer.
Can it be tied to Liana's central lock?
If yes, tell me how? Or a link to read.
Thank you
chip key problem!
Good day.
I own a 2003 Suzuki Aerio. I lost my original chip key (without the immobilizer). Is it possible to purchase a key for my car and program it under my brain to open and close the doors? I do not want to put the signaling, because it is not the main car.
Answer: there is a problem with the chip key!
Lomax wrote:
Good day. I own a 2003 Suzuki Aerio. I lost my original chip key (without the immobilizer).
Is it possible to purchase a key for my car and program it under my brain to open and close the doors? I do not want to put the signaling, because it is not the main car.
Click to expand...
Yes, in principle, why not? You can order a key from the officials and not take a steam bath, you can look for a blank with buttons yourself, cut teeth in a key-making workshop and try to teach it. In Nizhny Novgorod, I came across an advertisement, some workshop makes keys with an IMMO chip, copies of autorun chips for almost any car, for any Suzuki key 2000r. (don't take it as advertising, I just saw it).
Answer: problem with chip key!
alekse1 wrote:
Yes, in principle, why not? You can order a key from the officials and not take a steam bath, you can look for a blank with buttons yourself, cut teeth in a key-making workshop and try to teach it.
In Nizhny Novgorod, I came across an advertisement, some workshop makes keys with an IMMO chip, copies of autorun chips for almost any car, for any Suzuki key 2000r. (don't take it as advertising, I just saw it).
Click to expand...
So it turns out that you need to roll the car into NN? or an option to make such a key remotely! You can in a personal coordinates of this organization!
Answer: central locking
Threw it off.
You might be able to look for something similar.
Answer: central locking
Tell me, where is the chip located in the key? In the same vein as with the central locking remote control. And along the way, such a question, if you order a key from the officials, how much will it result in?
My teeth on the key have worn off, now I use a spare (without buttons), but I think you should always have a working spare.
Answer: central locking
Ingus wrote:
Tell me, where is the chip located in the key? In the same vein as with the central locking remote control.
And along the way, such a question, if you order a key from the officials, how much will it result in?
My teeth on the key have worn off, now I use a spare (without buttons), but I think you should always have a working spare.Click to expand...
It's simple! You unscrew the screw on the key, remove the top cover, take out the "pancake" with the buttons, remove the bottom part. Under it is a white plug, made of rubber. You pick it out - a rectangle under it - this is the chip.
About the key, I did it in a key-making workshop. The only caveat is the length of the new key is less than the regular one. But I didn’t care, I bought a flip key and screwed it to it made in the workshop. Of course, I had to work with a file and a natfile, but it was silent! If you are interested in details, I can share.
Answer: central locking
shumaher32 wrote:
Everything is simple! You unscrew the screw on the key, remove the top cover, take out the "pancake" with the buttons, remove the bottom part.
Under it is a white plug, made of rubber. You pick it out - a rectangle under it - this is the chip.
About the key, I did it in a key-making workshop. The only caveat is the length of the new key is less than the regular one. But I didn’t care, I bought a flip key and screwed it to it made in the workshop. Of course, I had to work with a file and a natfile, but it was silent! If you are interested in details, I can share.Click to expand...
Now I took it apart, I didn’t find any white rubber plug, maybe I misunderstood something?
Answer: central locking
Turn the key over and remove the bottom cover, it is latched.
Chip under the bottom (on the other side of the buttons). Tomorrow I'll post pictures, if necessary, today I'm already drinking cognac! )))
Reactions: 1 person
Answer: central locking
Ingus wrote:
no white rubber plug
Push to open...
like this chip ID 4D-66 transponder,
chip .
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Answer: central locking
Everything, now I have found it. I was really looking in the wrong place. Immediately and did not understand that the lid was also disassembled.
Another question in passing, is the chip soldered into the pen in the second key?
Answer: central locking
shumaher32 wrote:
Everything is simple! You unscrew the screw on the key, remove the top cover, take out the "pancake" with the buttons, remove the bottom part.
Under it is a white plug, made of rubber. You pick it out - a rectangle under it - this is the chip.
About the key, I did it in a key-making workshop. The only caveat is the length of the new key is less than the regular one. But I didn’t care, I bought a flip key and screwed it to it made in the workshop. Of course, I had to work with a file and a natfile, but it was silent! If you are interested in details, I can share.Click to expand...
If possible, at least in a nutshell. What is a flip key?
Answer: central locking
flip - how the knife opens
Answer: central locking
Victor23 wrote:
Flip - how the knife opens
Click to expand.
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