In my opinion developing this project is a must for any good ecologist as you. Indeed cycling around the city would further contribute to preserve environment if we find an alternative use of consumed or punctured tires.
This is not an original idea, recently you can buy these belts in fairs and markets, and six years ago opendesignclub wrote how to make tread belts (you also could read his instructable).
I used some thinner bicycle tires for my project, the one you use on your technical racing bicycle, or on your stylish fixed gear one. Usually these tires are also coloured and they could have stripes along all the tread, so you can obtain very trendy belts. Don't worry if the tread is not in good conditions, that's exactly the purpose of this project, and only if you're so lucky to cut your tire right away with a glass you will have a brand new belt.
In this instructable I describe how I made four different belts from one very consumed coloured tire, two pierced black ones almost new, and a wrecked mountain bike tire.
Base material is obviously an used bicycle tire, but you also need a belt buckle and, depending of the type of buckle, probably a pair of rivets or Chicago screws. The rivets are cheaper, and they work great for this project, the only disadvantage is that you can't unscrew them as with Chicago screws. But Chicago screws also have the risk to loosen.
In the picture you see that the tread with blue stripes also has an hole, and I tried to hide it with the belt loop. So if you have a damaged area you have tho options: cut it away, since you don't need the full length of the tire, or hide it under one or two loops.
You can find many different types of belt buckles on eBay, and some of them are very funny, but I chose to use some classic ones.
After cutting the tread with some margin more than the exact length (see step 6), I washed it with soap and a brush.
At the beginning it will leave some black tincture which derives from the brake pads consumption. But once washed it will not probably leave any trace on your pants.
Now you can cut the edges so to obtain the exact width of the buckle. As you see you have to narrow the last 7-10 cm of strip, alternatively you can cut all the entire tread wider as the bar length.
Mark the spot where to cut a slot for the lock, then make two holes at its extremities, and with a cutter remove the rubber between the holes, so to obtain a slot. This slot should be about half inch long.
Now place the buckle and mark the spots where to punch two holes for the rivets/chicago screws. The screw close to the buckle should keep the prong in place, so punch the hole pretty close to the bar.
Then cut a stripe from the piece of tread you split up, the length has to be the exact measure so that it can wrap the belt with no overlapping.
Connect the stripe's edges with the stapler so to make the loop. As you will see for next belts, you can give to the loop the flat shape with a simple solution, just iron it or place it in the toaster kept in shape with a metal peg. I didn't do that for this my first belt.
Then insert the buckle, close the first rivet, insert the loop and add the last rivet.
Now cut the exact length of the belt and mark the adjustment holes position, you can leave about one inch between them, or a bit less. To know the exact length measure your waistline and add about 15-18 cm (with the buckle length). If the belt is not for you, take note that a small waistline is about 60 cm (24") for a girl and 75 cm (30") for a guy, and that belly can grow up to 120 cm (48").
Look the following table to determine the right length, then punch out the center hole at the waistline distance from the end of the buckle, and add two or more holes at each side of the first one.
if you want o make a different loop, or an additional one, you can cut a different portion of tread, so to have a text engraved or a single coloured stripe instead of two.
My first trendy belt is ready to wear, let's see what we can obtain with a bit different tire and expedients.
These two black tires are in a better shape, since they both are punctures but not too much consumed.
I decided to cut the first belt to fit the smaller buckle I have, which is a standard 3.5 cm one, and I didn't leave the tread centered, instead I cut it leaving the writing well in view, so that the carved tread occupy half width.
Also in this case I punched out two holes to make the slot, then I added the holes for the rivets.
As you see you can make different loop styles, on the left is a stripe with an engraved writing, and on the right the full carved tread occupy the loop.
The I fastened them with the stapler as before, but this time I decided to try to heat them up, to see if heat will make them keeping the shape. That works very good, you can either ironing them, or close them in a metal peg and put all in the toaster for 5 minutes.
As before measure the right length, cut a nice shape at the extremity, and punch out holes.
This belt is completed too. it's smaller than the first one, and its black tint makes it more stylish, anyway I like the brand writing on its side.
This third belt is very similar to the last one, since the tire was identical. But I used the 4 cm buckle and I centered the belt in the tread width, leaving the writing visible as on the other belt.
You know by now the full process. Here I punched the slot and inserted the belt in the buckle. Then I punched out the holes for screws. Now measure the exact length and make the size holes as described before.
For this belt I inserted both loops in the turn-up, which is a bit larger than the other belts.
As you see these black tires are very appropriate for not very garish belts, but you can obtain gorgeous results with almost every type of treads.
Indeed I also tried to reuse a very old and consumed tire, I washed and brushed it, I cut out the tread, I measured the right length.
Then I punched the holes, refined the ends and connected the buckle. As you see it's worthwhile, maybe not so trendy, but undoubtedly sturdy!
So, what are you waiting? Go looking for a nice buckle and an used tire ;-)
Give a look also to another belt I made from a white tire and a huge belt made from an old Superga tire.
Did you make this project? Share it with us!
A belt made from the tread of a Surly Knard that rolled over 7,500 kilometers of African dirt…
compose Logan Watts
time Oct 13, 2014
comment 4
Nostalgia is a funny thing.
Sometimes, it makes us hoard away concert ticket stubs or hold on to old T-shirts as if they were prized trophies. I’m not a packrat, but I am admittedly sentimental. I often save stupid little mementos that represent banner experiences of times past (that I eventually purge and throw away). Over the weekend, I swapped out the tires on my ECR and retired the Knards that carried me through Africa. They actually still had a bit of life left in them, but the lure of foreign soil calls for a fresh set of rubber. I just couldn’t bring myself to get rid of both of those tires. After all, there’s a long story etched in that rubber. So, I decided to give one of them a second life.
I coerced a sexy model to flaunt the final product.
See captions below thumbnails for instructions…
1. A close up of the fairly worn tread, complete with dirt residue. I trimmed the Knard at the center tread using a heavy-duty pair of shears; 2.
Supplies: An old cloth belt yielded two rectangular rings to make the “buckle,” two small rivets (approx. 1/4 inch), a manual rivet set, and a small leather punch; 3. The final strip measured about 92 X 1 5/8 inches, enough for two belts for my 32/33 waist.
The rivets were placed about an inch from the fold to allow a little play in the rings. This allows the belt to slide through and lock when cinched.
So now I have a total hipster, kinda punk, Africa post-ride belt.
Prior to constructing the belt, I dropped by our local beer store for a little added inspiration. Turns out, its proprietor had paid a recent visit to my old home, over 200 miles away in Charlotte, North Carolina, and returned with a load of Hop Drop n’ Roll, the signature IPA from NoDa Brewing Company. The brewery is named after the hip urban area where it’s located, the same neighborhood where I developed friendships, lived, and worked for the 12 years leading up to the moment when Gin and I liquidated a chunk of our belongings, packed the rest in storage, and set off on a bike tour from Mexico to Panama.
I’ll make the beer review short and sweet. The Hop Drop is a remarkable and beautifully hopped IPA which deserves every bit of the gold medal it took home from the World Beer Cup in 2014 and the 96 rating it has on Beer Advocate. Evidently quite a few folks living in the small eastern North Carolina town I’m temporarily calling home agree. They had not only heard about the Hop Drop, but they had also been requesting it. And nearly as soon as Marcos, the owner of Brewmasters, had returned from Charlotte with the goods, it was gone.
So, beer in hand and a head full of memories, I cut, hammered, and slapped myself together a memento that I may wear a few times, then put in a box, then one day when the sentiment has lost its luster, I’ll probably give it to Goodwill. Or like the rest of the crap I happen to own when I take the big dirt nap, one of my nephews will have to deal with it. Ah, nostalgia!
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How to make a DIY bicycle tire belt . We make a homemade belt from unnecessary bicycle tires with our own hands.
Tires should never be thrown away. They can always be disposed of, or given a second life as a household item or wardrobe. And this applies not only to car tires, but also to others. So, for example, from bicycle tires you can get a simple, but stylish and durable belt. And making it yourself is very simple and not expensive.
To make a homemade belt you will need:
1) If you don't have the tire you need, you can find it in bicycle repair shops. Usually they are just thrown away, so you don't even have to spend money on this material. Just do not take completely worn out tires. Look for those that are stronger, with good tread.
It shouldn't rub off too much. As soon as the necessary tire is found, wash it thoroughly so that there is no dirt and small stones left, and let it dry.
2) Take the buckle. It can be purchased at fabric stores, or can be removed from an old and torn belt that you no longer use. If you chose option 2, then carefully look so that the buckle is not rusty and dirty.
Otherwise, clean it thoroughly. In addition, the buckle should be of such a color, shape and size that it is suitable for the future belt. That is, it must be as wide as a bicycle tire.
3) We also need rivets. They are also called "Chicago screw" and they are used specifically for fastening the buckle. You will only need one of these rivets. And you can find it in any sewing accessories store.
4) Take scissors and a bicycle tire and cut it anywhere. But once. Now carefully cut off the folded edges of the tire so that you only have a long flat part of it with a tread (grooved surface).
5) If the corrugated part of the tire has a pattern that looks like an arrow, or the end of a triangle, that's good, it will be easier for you to cut. First of all, cut off a piece of the tread on one edge so that you get a pointed end.
The second edge can either be trimmed straight or as shown. In addition, so that the belt does not turn out to be too long, it is worth cutting off a little more of it than the tip. Then, take a hole puncher that makes holes with a diameter of 3 millimeters, and make a few holes in your new belt. They should be located 2-3 centimeters apart.
6) Make another oblong hole, as well as two round ones on the sides of it. Pass the moving and sharp part of the buckle into the oblong. Bend the belt so that the two round holes on the sides of the oblong one are opposite each other. Fasten them tightly with a rivet.
7) Well, that's it. homemade belt is ready.
It can be worn just like that, or decorated with something, or dyed to look like leather.
If you are interested in the topic of making homemade belts from bicycle tires, please also see the article: Belts from bicycle tires
A convenient, functional and interesting do-it-yourself belt made from old bicycle parts. The original belt in these photos was made by a friend of mine and he deserves credit for the idea. He used strips of rubber tubing to connect part of the belt. Although after a year of intensive use, the worn parts had to be repaired.
Idea for your own belt
Step 1. Materials
You will need:
• Old Camera from a bicycle
• Clean bicycle chain and tool to analyze the chain
• • • • bicycle gear wheel
• 4 small bolts with nuts
• 180 cm of thin elastic cord
• scissors
• hole punch
• tape measure
Step 2.
Dismantling the bike into parts
Take the camera as the basis of the belt and cut it 5-7 cm from the valve.
1. Cut the chamber 5-7 cm away from the valve.
You have a long strip with a flap close to one end. Measure the circumference of your waist, add 20-25 cm - this will be the length of the belt.
2. Measure your waist circumference, add 20-25 cm to the length and cut off.
Lay the belt blank on a flat surface, measure the length of the belt from the valve and cut. (Note: do not touch the 5-7 cm behind the flap, you will need them later)
Cut off 2.5 cm from the rest of the chamber. This will be the loop into which the belt is inserted after the buckle has passed.
3. Cut a 2.5 cm piece for the buttonhole. For the buckle, take a gear wheel with a diameter slightly smaller than the length of the valve.
Take an old, worn, greasy chain and clean it up or just buy a new one - less work.
Using a tool, disassemble the chain into separate flat parts. You will sew them to the belt using elastic cord. Consider what model you want and how many parts you will need. My belt is decorated with two rows of pads, 22 pieces in each row, 44 pieces in total.
4. Take the bike chain apart. These flat pieces in the shape of a figure eight will decorate the belt. I had 2 rows of 22 pieces for a total of 44.
Step 3: Buckle
The buckle consists of a shaft and a star, as shown in the photo. The 25mm loop is attached next to the buckle using bolts.
First decide which side of the sprocket will be the face of the buckle. Then slide the end of the belt through the front side of the buckle, bend and place on the back side of the belt.
Mark four points for attaching the bent end of the belt with bolts. The first two points will be closer to the buckle, the next two - closer to the edge.
Using a hole punch, make four small holes (slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolts) at the marked points.
Also, make a hole in the 25mm loop.
1. Punch four holes through the folded end of the chamber. I recommend installing the buckle before making holes.
Insert two bolts into the holes closest to the buckle, tighten the nuts (bolts can be replaced with rivets). Insert the second pair of bolts and tighten the nuts.
2. Belt buckle. Front view. The first two bolts hold the buckle. Please note that they are set close to two prongs in order to hold the buckle tighter. The loop for the tip of the belt is also attached with two bolts.
3. Buckle back. Small bolts. Back side of the loop.
4. Buckle side view.
Step 4: Punch More Holes
You now have an almost finished belt. Put the belt on your trousers, tighten it as you like, mark the point for the hole.
Punch a hole slightly larger than the pin on the buckle. Since the waist circumference can vary, make a few more holes on the belt, at a distance of 25 mm from each other.
Your belt is ready, try it out, make sure it fits.
1. Finishing stitches: On both sides of the holes on the belt, punch 2 more rows of holes. You can pass a cord through them: thin or wide.
2. Not perfectly even, but that's ok.
3. Make sure the belt is flattened evenly around the perimeter so that the holes line up.
4. Punch a few holes in the end of the strap to keep the strap from twisting. Pass the cord through the holes.
Step 5 More Perforation
Now you have a long belt with a series of holes on one end and a buckle on the other. The middle part, however, is empty. Boring. A double row of bicycle chain covers will keep the belt from twisting and add originality.
Mark two parallel lines along the entire length of the belt, considering the distance you want to place the pads from each other. My belt had 22 8-shaped pads in each row. The holes in the parts were 12 mm apart.
Parts of the chain alternated: flat shiny and convex.
You can use my pattern, or lay the overlays vertically or diagonally, or sew with beads, etc. Get creative.
1. Dismantle the bike chain into parts, you will get an 8-shaped part for decorating the belt. My belt had two rows of 22 pieces, for a total of 44.
2. The distance between the holes in the parts is 12 mm. The round elastic cord is a little bulky, however, it will last longer than flat rubber bands.
3. The remnants of the camera used to stitch the lining broke after about a year.
Step 6. Seams on the overlays
This belt was made using rubber quilting strips. Cut 90 cm strips, 3 mm wide from a bicycle inner tube. But remember that they wear out quickly.
When repairing, I removed the worn parts and replaced them with bright blue elastic cord. Before sewing, tie a knot at one end of the cord and pull it through the first hole on the belt so that the knot stays on the back.
Then pass the cord through the first hole in the metal patch, through the second hole, and through the next hole on the strap. Repeat this step for all overlays in the row.
1. Long piece of elastic cord. I used about 90 cm for each row.
2. Pass the cord through the first hole in the first pad, then through the hole on the belt. Tie the first knot so that it stays on the back of the belt.
3. Then through the next hole. Repeat for the entire row.
4. The end of my cord was a little frayed, it became difficult to sew, and I made a makeshift needle from twisted wire.
5. Here I just changed the seams, I pulled out the rubber strips and sewed with elastic cord.
I sewed a row without tension on the cord, loosely. After finishing work, making sure that the cord lay flat, I tightened it. Then he tied the ends of the cords together.
6. Leave the stitches loose.
Then you come back and, making sure that the seam lies flat, tighten it more tightly.
7. Loose stitch. You want the seams to be flat, not twisted.
8. The top row is sewn. Here I am doing the last stitches on the bottom row.
9. These ends remain free while I worked with both rows.
10. Once you have flat, even seams, tie knots at the ends. Make sure the knots are on the back of the belt. Then cut off the excess cord.
Finally, my belt has a couple of stitched rows along its entire length. You can do it with short rubber bands, elastic cord or thread.
11. Punch a few small holes in the end of the strap to sew this part so it won't roll up.
Step 7. Done
I have only one small problem with the belt - the teeth on the buckle, they are a little sharp, which can be fixed if the belt is loosened a little.
Otherwise, it is comfortable, strong and elastic.
