How to put studs in a tire


How to Stud a Tire – Bruno Wessel

Never operate tire studding or other equipment without proper safety equipment. Shop approved safety glasses and work gloves should always be used for your own protection.

  1. Place the tire to be studded over the mandrel (aluminum shoe) of the K-5 stand.
  2. Unless the tire stud size is already identified, follow the following general guideline:
    Measure the depth of the hole to be studded with a tire tread depth gauge. If the measurement is 12/32″, then the proper size tire stud is the TSMI #12. If the measurement is 13/32″, then the proper size is the TSMI #13, etc.
  3. Lubricate the hole with water to allow for easier installation and longer equipment life.
  4. Align the tip of the stud gun (three external finger 0084) with the hole.
    Press the stud gun assembly firmly downward inserting gun tip into hole.
  5. Depress the stud gun trigger while maintaining downward pressure, release the trigger and relieve the downward pressure.

The stud gun will automatically return to the start position leaving the tire stud in the tire. The timing of steps 4, 5 and 6 are important and take some time to learn.

Helpful Hints and Recommendations

  • Operate the TSIT Insertion Tool between 95 and 110 PSI for maximum life of the gun and internal parts.
  • Lubricate the tool daily with a few drops of air tool oil inserted directly into the air input port.
  • Always inspect the common wear parts of the gun and feeder for excess wear prior to beginning the studding procedure. Only trained personnel should service this equipment. The steel head assembly of the stud guns is spring loaded. Use extreme caution when disassembling.
  • A properly installed stud should appear to be nearly flush with the tire surface. Only the carbide pin and about 1/32″ of the stud body should be visible. Also, be sure that the stud is inserted straight into the hole. A leaning stud will not properly seat into the tire and will cause premature failure.

Properly and Improperly Installed Studs

Advise the customer that the studded tires require a break-in period. The customer should drive normally (try to avoid hard cornering, acceleration and braking) for a few days or so (approx. 50-100 miles) to allow for proper tire stud seating.

How to Video:  TSIT-9 Stud Insertion Tool

How to Video: Stud removal

How to Video: K500 Stud Insertion Tool

How to Video: TSIT-9 Repair Video

Don't Put Studs on Your Tires This Winter

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Nowhere does consumer perception lag further behind on-the-ground reality than in the car world. And that’s a problem, because your outdated beliefs, loyalties, and superstitions are probably costing you money and compromising your safety. 

We discussed just that last year, when I told you that running winter tires matters way more than buying an all-wheel drive car. But that article had one major flaw: I neglected to explain why studded tires are so vastly inferior to the modern studless alternative. And readers have since indicated that they are actually running studded tires in conditions that don’t merit them. This is my attempt to fix that. 

Studs Only Grip Ice

If you don’t read any further, the fact that studs only provide additional grip on clear ice is probably the most important takeaway I can give you. Studs themselves are small, sharp metal protrusions installed into the tread of a tire. Because they get between the rubber and whatever surface you’re driving across, they need to be able to poke into that surface and momentarily stick there, resisting lateral forces, in order to provide grip.  

Picture other winter surfaces: in packed, loose, or deep snow, the studs will definitely penetrate, but they won’t find the resistance necessary to actually add grip. In slushy or wet conditions or on bare pavement, the tire needs to come into contact with the road surface in order to find traction—and the metal studs actually get in the way of that. 

So studs help on bare ice only, do nothing for you in snow, and actually make you less safe in other conditions. 

For last year's article on all-wheel-drive versus better tires, I interviewed Woody Rogers, the head of Tire Rack’s testing team. Because Tire Rack is the largest online tire retailer, Rogers tests virtually all makes and models of tires and his job is to be as objective as possible. Tire Rack doesn’t care about selling you a specific tire; they care about selling you the best tire for your needs. “Drivers can’t dictate the surfaces they drive on,” he told me. “They just need a tire that works across all the hazardous conditions they face in winter months. ” And that’s not studs. 

And Even on Ice, Studs Only Work at Certain Temperatures

Back in 2001, Washington State conducted an exhaustive study into the performance of studded tires. One of its most interesting conclusions was that, while studs do grip clear ice very well, they only do so under a very specific set of circumstances.”Studs are most effective on ice at or near 32 degrees F and lose their efficacy as temperatures drop and the ice becomes too hard for the studs to grip or when temperatures rise and ice melts to slush or wet pavement,” the study reads. The minimum effective temperature for studs? Zero degrees Fahrenheit, according to the study. 

And that’s a huge problem, because bare ice in those temperature ranges where studs help only exists on roadways for a very small amount of time. In Washington, the study found that conditions where studs work only exist one percent of the time. In Alaska, those conditions occurred just six percent of the time during winter months. In Connecticut, that number is just half a percent. In Ontario, bare ice between zero and 32 degrees accounts for less than two percent of vehicle miles traveled. 

Go back to Rogers’s quote above, and you’ll see why having a tire that only works as advertised in such specific, rare circumstances will be problematic. I called him back up for help with this article. “There is absolutely a time and place where a studded tire is a superior solution,” he tells me. “But I don’t know a place in the U.S. where conditions merit studs all winter. So, you have to consider managing the tradeoffs.”

Stopping distances from 25 MPH for Bridgestone Blizzaks (the first modern studless winter tire), compared to those for studded winter tires, and all-seasons on both bare ice and packed snow, at 10 degrees F. (Washington State Transportation Center)

The Tradeoffs 

Tiny metal spikes don’t grip pavement as well as soft, pliable rubber. So, by getting between the rubber and the road, studs actually reduce grip, and therefor safety, in slushy, wet, or dry conditions.  

A study conducted in Alaska in 1994, soon after the advent of modern studless winter tires, compared the braking, acceleration, and cornering performance of studded, studless winter, and all-season tires across packed snow, clear ice, and bare pavement. Studded tires demonstrated some advantage in braking and acceleration on bare ice, were actually out-cornered by studless winter tires, and were demonstrated to reduce grip in all tests on bare pavement. Consider the small fraction of the time in which conditions merit studs and you can see that you are sacrificing grip—and, again, safety—throughout most of the winter. 

“There is absolutely a time and place where a studded tire is a superior solution. But I don’t know a place in the U.S. where conditions merit studs all winter. You have to consider the tradeoffs.”

And that's assuming your studs are in good condition. “Think about how much of your driving here in the U.S. is spent on non-snowpack roads,” says Rogers. “And that is wearing at the studs, blunting the sharpness of them, and wearing them down. That takes away some of the traction advantage.” 

How much grip is lost as studs wear? “When stud protrusion diminishes to 0.024 in. (0.6 mm), the frictional effect from the studs becomes negligible,” concludes the Washington study. It found that after just 1,000 miles of driving on bare pavement, the braking distance of studded tires increased by 12 percent. 

Studs aren’t the only things that wear when they’re driven on bare pavement. The road surface itself is also torn to pieces. By damaging pavement so significantly, studs actually create a significant amount of pollution, throwing microscopic asphalt and concrete particles into the air. In Japan, concerns about this type of pollution led to the development of moderns studless winter tires in the early 1990s. Studs are now banned in that (very snowy) country. 

“And then there’s the noise,” says Rogers. “The noise is crazy. I still remember the first time we drove on studded tires as part of a test here, I was in a caravan with other cars, and we had a studded car and a studless car. I was an eighth of a mile behind the studded car, and even with the windows up, I could here the noise from the tires of the car ahead of me.”

All that for a small advantage in one specific circumstance that only accounts for a tiny fraction of the miles you’ll log during the winter? 

Stopping distances on bare ice, at different temperatures. (Washington State Transportation Center)

Studs Aren’t Great to Drive On

Back in the 2000s, when it was my job to test new cars, I once crashed a Corvette into a bank of frozen snow way up in northern Sweden. Why? Well, because I’m an idiot, obviously. But part of the reason was also due to the unique handling characteristics of studded tires, which I failed to fully account for. 

“With a studded tire, what we’ve found particularly during braking and acceleration, is that once the tire spins, the studs cut a groove in the ice,” says Rogers. “Then the next stud that comes along behind it comes right through that same groove and has nothing to grab onto. ” It only takes about a quarter of a revolution for that effect to take place, and once it occurs, grip disappears instantly.  

“That leads to what you felt in the Corvette,” Rogers tells me. “Grip, grip, grip, grip, grip, then whoops—who pulled the rug out?”

Even if you’re not lapping a car around a race track carved onto a frozen lake, this lack of communication from studded tires could impair your ability to drive safely in winter conditions. Whereas studless tires lose their grip progressively, communicating to the driver that they’re nearing the limits of available grip, studded tires lose grip suddenly, without warning. You won’t know you’re driving too fast for the conditions until you end up in a ditch. 

Do You Need Studded Tires?

The simple answer is that studs are an outdated technology that's no longer relevant in the vast majority of driving conditions. 

“The traction of studded tires is slightly superior to studless tires only under an ever-narrowing set of circumstances,” the Washington study concluded—way back in 2001. “With…the advent of the new studless tire, such as the Blizzak, since the early 1990s, the traction benefit for studded tires is primarily evident on clear ice near the freezing mark, a condition whose occurrence is limited. For the majority of test results reviewed for snow, and for ice at lower temperatures, studded tires performed as well as or worse than the Blizzak tire. For those conditions in which studded tires provided better traction than studless tires, the increment usually was small.”

This winter, will you drive in extreme cold? Will you drive on snow? Will you encounter bare, plowed highways? Winter driving is defined by its unpredictability. Fortunately for all of us, there is a device designed to deal with all of it: The modern studless winter tire. 

How to install spikes on winter tires with your own hands?

It can be a shame when most of the tread height of winter tires is still preserved and performs its functions perfectly, and half of the studs have already fallen out of their sockets. Is it time to throw out the tires or can they be restored? Some motorists prefer to install new spikes on winter tires with their own hands. Self-studding tires allows you to use high-quality materials and reduces material costs for the purchase of new tires. 9Studs They are divided according to the following parameters:

  1. Material. Products are made of alloys: aluminum, steel or plastic.
  2. Form. There are basic shapes: round, oval, tetrahedral. In practice, there are a lot of different forms of these products.
  3. Core type. There are products with a solid insert in the form of a tube, a rod, and so on.
  4. Single and double flanged studs. The latter must be installed with an aggressive driving style.

When choosing studding elements, consider: riding speed, driving style, tire characteristics, tread height. When re-studding, pay attention to the size of the attachment points of the dropped spikes, as a rule, the sockets are slightly broken: it makes sense to use a larger diameter of the products. "Native" spikes will not stay in broken sockets.

It is not difficult to install stud elements at home, you must follow these rules:

  1. The stud should not protrude from the rubber by more than 1.3 mm. This criterion is taken into account when choosing the height of the stud elements.
  2. Tires should be studded 1-3 months before the onset of the winter season, the inserted studding elements during this period will be more tightly pressed with rubber and will last longer.
  3. Running in tires is a prerequisite for a long service life of studded tires. It consists in driving a car (300 km) without exceeding the speed limit (up to 80 km/h) and without additional loads on the wheels.

We recommend watching a video about tires using repair spikes:

Preparatory and repair work

To install thorns on winter rubber with your own hands:

  1. Use tires suitable for an institute:
9000 9000 models with special holes for studding elements;
  • tire tread must meet acceptable standards, it cannot be worn out;
  • Tires should preferably not be more than four years old.
  • Studded and non-studded respectively
    1. Quality studs.

    Tires can be studded in three ways:

    1. Manual method. It is carried out using a hammer, screwdriver and soapy water. The advantage of such repairs is their cost, it is low due to the lack of the need to buy additional equipment.
    2. Semi-automatic method. The installation of studding elements into the holes is carried out using a drill with low speed or a screwdriver using a special nozzle. The speed of studding is significantly increased. The complexity of this method lies in the need to properly hold the stud element so that it enters the rubber evenly.
    3. Automatic. It involves the use of an air gun, with the help of which the studding elements are installed in the attachment points. Labor productivity when using the specified gun increases. The downside is the high cost of the equipment. For a single spike procedure, buying an air gun will certainly not be profitable.

    Consider the process of studding tires without special holes for studs. It is quite laborious, it is performed as follows:

    1. Make the holes for the spikes with a drill (use the special drill) or use an awl and a hammer.
    2. Fix the tire.
    3. Mark the places for the studding elements yourself, for this use the corrector.
    4. Apply soapy water to the surface of the tire to make it easier to install the studs into the mounting holes.
    5. Put the stud in place and mount it.
    6. Check the protrusion of the installed product above the surface of the tire with a vernier caliper, if the height is more than 1.5 mm, set the stud element a little deeper.
    7. If the stud has entered the rubber unevenly, remove it with pliers.

    The installation of studding elements in tires with special holes for studs is carried out in a similar way, while labor productivity increases several times. There is no need to make special holes in the tire for attaching spikes.

    Tire retreading

    Studding with an air gun

    Do-it-yourself studding of winter tires is used for re-studding and re-studding of tires. The studding process makes it possible to equip winter tires for individual vehicle operating conditions. Restudding prolongs the life of tires, makes it possible to restore them.

    Tires with worn or broken studs are suitable for the above work. To replace missing or worn studding elements, special products are used. They have an enlarged head, so they can be installed in broken mounting sockets. The sequence of repair work when studding tires is not much different from the methods of primary studding of rubber. It has only one difference: before installing new spikes, you need to clean the sockets from particles of dirt, dust, and remnants of old spike elements.

    Conclusion

    Studding or re-studding of winter tires can be done at home. does not require special skills. When using high-quality component materials for studding, you can significantly increase the life of tires. The implementation of these procedures gives the following advantages:

    • the ability to choose high-quality products for studding;
    • reduction of cash costs for new tires;
    • equipping tires for the operating conditions of the machine;
    • tire life increase.

    You can do everything yourself, but of course in most cases it will be easier and faster to contact a tire shop. Today, many services provide a service for the restoration of spikes. In any case, it doesn't matter if you stud yourself or at a tire shop - it is usually much cheaper than buying new winter tires.

    Author Sergey PolishchukPosted Headings TiresTags winter tires, winter, tires, spikes, do-it-yourself

    Re-studding of winter tires - how is it done and is it worth doing rubber studding

    (

    Updated:

    25/01/2022

    )

    Article content

    • What you need to know about tire studding
    • Which winter tire can be studded and which can not
    • Studded tires
    • How repairs are made: types and methods of studding
    • Advantages and disadvantages of studded rubber

    During operation, the winter set of tires wears out actively, loses grip, loses elasticity at low temperatures.

    The studs wear off and fall out due to deformation. With such damage, manufacturers recommend changing tires to new tires in order to prevent an emergency, to prevent skidding on an unstable winter road. However, in a situation where metal cutters are damaged on new tires, it is not necessary to install a new set. It is enough to restore the studding.

    Re-studding of winter tires is a standard procedure used to improve the performance of tires. It improves grip on icy surfaces, improves driving safety in cold weather.

    What you need to know about tire studding

    Due to the design, the studs stop working even on new tires. If the tire wear is uneven, the cutters become dull, stop grabbing on an icy road, or become higher than the tread. This leads to the fact that they are pulled out during sudden braking or wheel slip. In this case, a new kit is not needed, since it makes sense to stud.

    This process can be done by hand or with a tool. Before re-completing, it must be taken into account that the installation of spikes should be carried out 2-3 months before the onset of the winter period. The process is influenced by technology, the rubber must be dried before operation, after which a mandatory run-in must be carried out. Only if the conditions are met, you can get the desired effect - the spikes do not deform and do not fly out.

    Studding winter tires can be done in several ways. There is an initial and repair (repeated) method. The initial technology involves the operation of non-studded tires, which can be equipped at any time if necessary. Re-studding is a do-it-yourself procedure for installing new incisors to replace the lost ones. Self-installation increases the working life of the wheels, improves safety.

    Which winter tire can be studded and which can not

    Despite the advantages of the method, there are restrictions that prohibit the repair of worn rubber. If they are ignored, this will lead to poor-quality re-recovery and will not give a result.

    Mounting studs on a winter tire is done in cases where:

    • the tire has holes where metal elements can stand;
    • the residual part of the tread is not less than 7 millimeters - with a smaller depth of the pattern, the spikes will not stand;
    • winter tires have special recesses for installing incisors;
    • all season tires have M+S tread indicator;
    • tires are used on specialized vehicles in any season.

    Do-it-yourself re-assembly of cutters is not allowed if:

    • all-season tires do not have the necessary traction for driving on icy roads;
    • friction rubber tread has a shallow depth or medium-sized sipes;
    • tire is designed for use in summer - in this case, mounting is prohibited by law and pointless, since the cutters will not be in the tread.

    Before making repairs, decide if you need additional studding or if it is better to replace the set of wheels. Only having determined the relevance, one should start work and re-install the metal elements.

    Studded tires

    • novelty

      Winter Drive protection

      Tires Goodyear UltraGrip Arctic 2 SUV

      Studs:
      yes
      Diameter:
      17 / 18 / 19 / 20 / 21
    • Winter Drive protection

      Rating:

      4.5

      Tires Goodyear UltraGrip 600

      Studs:
      yes
      Diameter:
      15 / 16 / 17
    • Winter Drive Protection Sound Comfort

      Rating:

      4.5

      Tires Goodyear UltraGrip Ice Arctic

      Studs:
      yes
      Diameter:
      15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19
    • novelty

      Winter Drive protection

      Tires Goodyear UltraGrip Arctic 2

      Studs:
      yes
      Diameter:
      16 / 17 / 18 / 19
    • Winter Drive Protection Sound Comfort

      Rating:

      4. 5

      Tires Goodyear UltraGrip Ice Arctic SUV

      Studs:
      yes
      Diameter:
      15 / 16 / 17 / 18 / 19 / 20
    • Winter

      Rating:

      4

      Tires Goodyear Cargo UltraGrip 2

      Studs:
      no / yes
      Diameter:
      15 / 16

    How repairs are made: types and methods of studding

    There are several ways to reposition the incisors. Repair is done with a tool or with your own hands. In the first case, studding is used with an air gun, which pushes the edges of the winter tire at the desired angle. In the second case, the tire is equipped with conventional spikes, installed with a screwdriver and a hammer. The first method of re-studding is correct and guarantees the result. It involves the preparation of tires, cleaning the tread from contamination with compressed air. This avoids the distortion of metal elements, their rapid loss.

    It is possible to repair a winter tire in several stages, it is enough:

    • study the condition of the tread and measure its height - if it is less than 4 mm, then it is not advisable to repair;
    • measure the depth of the grooves for the studs - if the tread is lower than the groove for the cutter, then we recommend installing a new set of wheels on the car;
    • clean the holes - remove dirt from the tread and grooves so that the studs sit tightly in the seat;
    • prepare for studding - the cutters will stand firmly in the grooves if the holes are lubricated with soapy water;
    • , install the desired studs with an air gun - when re-repairing, the stud is mounted so that its edge protrudes up to 0.5 mm above the tire tread.

    Advantages and disadvantages of rubber studding

    Installing metal cutters instead of worn ones improves the car's handling on the road, grip on slippery surfaces, and reduces the braking distance.


    Learn more