Knock-on wheel weights for steel rims and aluminium rims.
Clip-On Wheel Weights
High-quality Zinc, Steel and Lead Adhesive weights.
Adhesive Wheel Weights
Car & Light Truck
Medium & Semi Truck
Motorcycle
Non-Lead Wheel WeightsDue to new legislation, many states are now banning lead wheel weight. So it is crucial to buy non-leaded wheel weights if you reside in those state.
Steel Wheel Weights
Zinc Wheel Weights
Balancing Beads & AlternativeLiquid Tire Balance
These chemical products are tire conditioners that help improve the tire lifespan and can also balancer tires.
Tools & Accessories
The most common weight for steel wheels.
Used on domestic vehicles equipped with alloy rims that were manufactured prior to 1995.
Used on most domestic vehicles equipped with alloy rims.
Used on Chrysler vehicles and is designed to fit their unique alloy rim flange.
Used on many new Ford models, on most European vehicles and certain Asian vehicles equipped with alloy rims. Fits Many brands like Audi, BMW, Cadillac, Jaguar, Kia, Nissan, Toyota, Volkswagen & Volvo
Used on Audi, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen and very early-model Japanese vehicles equipped with alloy wheel.
Used on most Japanese vehicles equipped with alloy wheels.
Used on most domestic light trucks equipped with decorative and larger thickness steel wheels and 1997 and newer Ford F150, Ford Expedition, and Lincoln Navigator alloy wheels.
OEM coated weight for BMW
OEM coated weight for Mercedes-Benz
The most commonly used weight on medium-duty trucks with either tube or tubeless steel rims.
The most commonly used weight on heavy-duty trucks with steel rims.
Also used on some older medium-duty truck with steel wheel.
The most common weight on light to heavy-duty trucks with alloy rims.
Specialty weight used on heavy-duty trucks with Firestone, Accuride, Budd or Goodyear tubeless alloy rims.
Specialty weight used on heavy-duty trucks with Firestone, Accuride or Radial Commander alloy rims.
The most common weight for steel wheels.
Used on domestic vehicles equipped with alloy rims that were manufactured prior to 1995.
Used on most domestic vehicles equipped with alloy rims.
Used on Chrysler vehicles and is designed to fit their unique alloy rim flange.
Used on many new Ford models, on most European vehicles and certain Asian vehicles equipped with alloy rims.
Fits Many brands like Audi, BMW, Cadillac, Jaguar, Kia, Nissan, Toyota, Volkswagen & Volvo
Used on Audi, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen and very early-model Japanese vehicles equipped with alloy wheel.
Used on most Japanese vehicles equipped with alloy wheels.
Used on most domestic light trucks equipped with decorative and larger thickness steel wheels and 1997 and newer Ford F150, Ford Expedition, and Lincoln Navigator alloy wheels.
OEM coated weight for BMW
OEM coated weight for Mercedes-Benz
Stick-On adhesive wheel weight for car and light truck.
Medium & Semi TruckThe most commonly used weight on medium-duty trucks with either tube or tubeless steel rims.
The most commonly used weight on heavy-duty trucks with steel rims.
Also used on some older medium-duty truck with steel wheel.
The most common weight on light to heavy-duty trucks with alloy rims.
Specialty weight used on heavy-duty trucks with Firestone, Accuride, Budd or Goodyear tubeless alloy rims.
Specialty weight used on heavy-duty trucks with Firestone, Accuride or Radial Commander alloy rims.
Stick-On adhesive wheel weight for medium and semi truck.
MotorcycleStick-On wheel weight for motorcycles.
Wheel weights for spokes
Weight with integral clip for symmetrical static balancing of alloy motorcycle wheels where the center rib is shorter than 10 mm
FE, Steel Wheel WeightsThe most common weight for steel wheels.
Used on most domestic vehicles equipped with alloy rims.
Used on many new Ford models, on most European vehicles and certain Asian vehicles equipped with alloy rims. Fits Many brands like Audi, BMW, Cadillac, Jaguar, Kia, Nissan, Toyota, Volkswagen & Volvo
Used on Audi, Mercedes-Benz, Volkswagen and very early-model Japanese vehicles equipped with alloy wheel.
Used on most Japanese vehicles equipped with alloy wheels.
Used on most domestic light trucks equipped with decorative and larger thickness steel wheels and 1997 and newer Ford F150, Ford Expedition, and Lincoln Navigator alloy wheels.
Zn, Zinc Wheel WeightsThe most common weight for steel wheels.
Used on domestic vehicles equipped with alloy rims that were manufactured prior to 1995.
Used on most domestic vehicles equipped with alloy rims.
Used on many new Ford models, on most European vehicles and certain Asian vehicles equipped with alloy rims. Fits Many brands like Audi, BMW, Cadillac, Jaguar, Kia, Nissan, Toyota, Volkswagen & Volvo
Used on most Japanese vehicles equipped with alloy wheels.
The most commonly used weight on heavy-duty trucks with steel rims. Also used on some older medium-duty truck with steel wheel.
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50 Ounce Wheel Weight Compare
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5 Ounce Wheel Weight Compare
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25 Ounce Wheel Weight Compare
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25 Ounce Wheel Weight Almost always the center of mass of the wheel does not coincide with the geometric center. Such a wheel, when driving, causes increased vibration of the vehicle, which leads both to a decrease in comfort and to wear of the steering and wheel suspension elements, and increases tire wear. Moreover, the shock load on the suspension turns out to be quite noticeable - an imbalance of only 20 grams on a 14-inch wheel at a car speed of 100 km / h is equivalent to the impact of a sledgehammer weighing 3 kg, hitting the wheel at a frequency of 800 times per minute!
The rear wheels must be balanced in the same way as the front wheels. Compared to the front wheels, the imbalance of the rear wheels is less noticeable, but this does not mean that it does not exist. In addition to the suspension problems listed above, wheel imbalance leads to uneven wear of the rubber itself.
Balancing must be carried out regularly, as the occurrence of wheel imbalance occurs due to wear of rubber, deformation of the disk (when it enters the hole) and when taking shape. Therefore, balancing must be carried out when: mounting a tire on a rim, 500 km after installing a new tire, and after falling into a large hole.
After tire fitting, a clean wheel is placed on a wheel balancer and centered using a cone. The wheel parameters are set at the stand, after which the computer gives the tire fitter information about where and how much weight the goods need to be weighed. When balancing, stuffed weights for stamped rims and adhesive universal weights can be used.
On a new wheel with a new rim, the load weight must not exceed 60 grams. If the mass of the attached load is greater, you need to make sure that the wheel is assembled correctly or find the reason for the impossibility of performing the correct balancing (worn tire, bent disc).
If the wheel is balanced and removed from the stand, ask, for the sake of interest, fix it there again and check the imbalance. The possible variation in readings when reinstalling wheels with steel rims is plus or minus 5 grams on both sides, and with alloy wheels - 3-5 grams on both sides. The larger and heavier the wheels, the more tangible is the impact of the errors in fixing the wheels on the machine on the quality of balancing. Of course, it is impossible to make a perfectly balanced wheel, and since we are talking about a disk-tire set, the quality of the wheel assembly directly depends on the quality of each of these components. Therefore, there are certain ranges - tolerances within which the existing imbalance is considered acceptable. 10 grams is the maximum allowable unbalance value. This value is due to tolerances when centering the rim.
Despite the fact that for the most part balancing is carried out along the central hole, which does not wear out during operation and is left on the disk specifically for balancing.
HAWEKA has invented a method for balancing wheels using holes through which the wheel is attached to the hub. The essence of the method is as follows:
Double wheel alignment occurs according to the Haveka system: preliminary cone centering along the central hole of the disk and final - the disk is attached to the balancing stand with a flange adapter that imitates the hub studs of your car. The only difference is that alloy wheels are not pre-aligned with a cone, but with a collet adapter.
In some tire centers, the so-called "finish" balancing is used. However, this type of balancing cannot act as an alternative to balancing on stationary balancing stands. The final balancing device is designed for static balancing of the entire assembly, i.e. hubs with wheel and brake disc. Moreover, the ALLOWABLE weight of the weight, which corrects the imbalance of the node, is a maximum of 15 grams. It should be noted that in this case the wheel must be MANDATORY balanced.
Despite its simplicity, wheel balancing is a very important technical point in the process of car maintenance.
Wheel balancing during assembly ensures that the driver does not encounter steering wheel wobble at high speeds. True, provided that the procedure was performed correctly. After all, everyone is well aware that the consequences of the beating of the steering wheel when the wheels are unbalanced are rather deplorable, namely:
The reason for this is the vibration that diverges throughout the body due to an unbalanced wheel. However, the main danger is that the controllability of the car is significantly reduced, which entails the danger of the movement process.
That is why it is so important to pay attention to both the quality of car rims and tires, and the very process of vehicle balancing.
We have decided for what purpose we carry out the balancing of car wheels. The next step is to figure out how often you need balancing.
So, if you use all-season tires, then in general once a year may be enough. True, you should not forget about additional clarifications. First of all, remember that the wheels need to be balanced when assembling a wheel on a tire. Secondly, after 500 “knurled” kilometers on new tires, and thirdly, after breaking through the suspension.
Also, do not forget about the imbalance of the wheel when the rubber wears out, changes in the shape of the rim (deformation when it hits the pit). Accordingly, these points should also not be left without wheel balancing.
As a rule, wheel imbalance is divided into two types: dynamic and static. Both varieties assume a mismatch between the axis of inertia and rotation, which pass through the center of gravity of each automobile wheel.
When it comes to static unbalance, the center of gravity of the wheel is not on the axis of rotation, since it runs parallel to the axis of inertia. The reason for this is the uneven distribution of the total mass of the wheel along the circumference. To determine this type of imbalance, it is recommended to put the wheel on a free axle and observe how it behaves. In this case, the wheel perform a couple of pendulum movements and stop when the center of gravity reaches the maximum lower point.
In case of dynamic unbalance, the center of gravity falls on the axis of rotation, but both axes intersect at a certain angle. In layman's terms, the weight of a wheel is not properly distributed across its width.
Dynamic imbalance can be diagnosed by rotating the wheel, and eliminated by installing a weight-compensator on both sides of the disk in certain places.
Undoubtedly, while manufacturers have not yet created the perfect wheel, and its overall quality directly depends on the components - tires and discs.
In this regard, there are limits to the permissible imbalance.
It operates on the territory of Ukraine
| Maximum allowable tire runout and mass of compensating weights when balancing the wheel in accordance with GOST 4754-97 | ||||
| Tire type/designation | Tire rim, inches | Weight limit for balancing weights (total per wheel), grams | Tire runout limit, mm | |
| radial | side | |||
| Radial (all sizes) | 12" | 50 | 1. 0 | 1.5 |
| 13" | 60 | 1.0 | 1.5 | |
| 14" | 70 | 1.0 | 1.5 | |
| 15" | 70 | 1.5 | 2.0 | |
| 16" | 70 | 1.5 | 2.0 | |
| 215/80 R16 C | 16" | 140 | 1.5 | 2.0 |
| 225/75 R16 C | 16" | 160 | 1. 5 | 2.0 |
| Diagonal (all sizes) | 13" | 80 | 2.0 | 3.0 |
| 14" | 100 | |||
| 15" | 140 | |||
| 175/80-16 | 16" | 120 | ||
In addition to statistical unbalance indicators, you can also find information on the maximum allowable weight weights to compensate for dynamic unbalance, as well as allowable wheel runout data.
To balance the wheel, a special balancing machine is used, on which it is spun and centered using a special cone.
Further, the parameters of the wheel are entered into a special disc balancing stand.
Based on them, the data is formed, which is displayed on the screen, exactly where the installation of balancing weights is required and what their weight is required.
Different balancing weights are used. It all depends on the type of wheel. For example, cast and stamped stuffed loads are perfect. Also on the market are universal weights - adhesive.
They are often glued on the inside of the wheel. By the way, such weights are also used to preserve the "beauty" of a balanced disk.
Today there are quite a lot of comparative characteristics of adhesive and stuffed weights. It is worth saying that, as a rule, they are focused on stuffed weights. That they are the best, especially in the cold season.
The reason for this is the temperature changes that the wheels are exposed to in winter, which leads to a decrease in the holding characteristics of the adhesive tape, due to which the load can “unstick”.
It is worth noting that such cases are quite common when the car is washed with high pressure. True, there are types of discs that are not designed for the installation of stuffed weights, therefore, in such a situation, adhesive weights are the only way out.
Balancing weights are installed in two versions:
As a rule, the load on the front side of the wheel is not installed either at the request of the owner (not to spoil the aesthetics of the wheel) or it is technically impossible to balance the wheel in this way.
If the balancing weight is mounted exclusively on the inside, then it is placed as close as possible to the outside - in close proximity to the spokes.
By the way, it is possible to balance the rim with a single weight. True, this technology is very complex and applicable only in extreme cases.
All weights of the total weight are placed as close as possible to each other. At the same time, their total weight should not exceed 60 grams, when balancing a new wheel with a new disk.
In case of exceeding the permissible weight, it is recommended to check the correct assembly of the wheel, make sure that the yellow mark on the tire matches the valve.
If everything matches, but the weight of the balance weight exceeds 60 grams, then a more thorough inspection of the wheel is required in order to determine the reasons that prevent proper balancing. One of these reasons may be the deformation of the disk, or a tire that has lost its shape (compressed).
After completing the balancing and removing the wheel from the balancing machine, we strongly recommend that you ask the mechanic to check the unbalance indicators again. It is possible that the figures may change.
Relative to allowable scatter parameters during reinstallation depends on the disc type.
For example, for steel discs, the allowable error should not exceed five grams on both sides. But with alloy wheels, the size of the error is even smaller - three grams on both sides.
By the way, the influence of the error is more pronounced on the quality of balancing, depending on the diameter and weight of the wheel.
In some tire centers, motorists quite often meet with "finish" balancing. It is quite often considered as an alternative to traditional balancing on benches or machines.
However, remember that this option is completely wrong. In this case, the balancing equipment is determined by the apparatus, which is designed to statistically balance the entire assembly, namely the hub, wheel and brake disc. In this case, the allowable weight to correct the imbalance should not exceed 15 grams.
If you intend to send your car for final balancing, remember that before this the wheels must go through the "classic" balancing method.
In a word, “finishing” balancing is a kind of final touch to consolidate the properties of traditional balancing.
Moreover, in some cases it is not necessary to carry out a final balancing at all if Havek adapters were used before.
Now it's worth talking about the most common mistakes that occur in the process of balancing car wheels. After all, it’s better to learn from the mistakes of others!
The first and most common mistake is balancing a dirty drive. Do not forget that in one way or another the dirt will affect the balance of the wheel, and after it is washed off or falls off, your disk will again be unbalanced.
This item also includes the installation of adhesive weights on a contaminated surface. In this case, the load during movement is more likely to come off than if it is installed on a blank disc.
The second large-scale mistake is the installation of new weights without dismantling the old ones.
Such cases, as practice shows, are the most common.
The next problem is the fit of the tire on the rim. Sometimes there are situations when the master, when mounting the tire, poorly lubricates its bead with a solution, and in some cases they forget about everything. In this case, due to the incorrect distribution of internal pressure, the tire does not "sit down" on the disc correctly.
It is worth noting that if the tire shop proves to you that the rubber is old or of poor quality, then there is a high probability that there is an incorrect fit. Situations of this kind are also complicated by the fact that from the outside there is no way to determine exactly what the problem is. You can solve the situation by increasing the pressure in the tire.
It is worth noting that today there are so-called "civilized" tire centers, known as 3D tire fitting. They offer to carry out balancing on the latest equipment that conducts laser diagnostics.
It allows you to determine the exact geometry of the entire wheel and a single disc, which allows you to diagnose and runout.
This allows you to "plant" the car tire as clearly as possible on the disk and thereby effectively compensate for imbalances in the disk and tire.
Of course, the cost of such equipment is quite high and you can not find it everywhere. As a rule, in tire shops, which are located in the central part of large cities.
In the event that the weight for balancing is higher than the allowable limit, it is recommended to put the tire completely on the rim and turn it over the rim. This method allows you to reduce the weight of the load.
It should be noted that many modern tire manufacturers put color marks on their products, which indicate the lightest place on the tire. During installation, the mark must be placed next to the nipple. By following this simple rule, you can reduce the amount of balance weights you use.
After balancing, it is very important to pay attention to how the weights are installed.
