How to change tires on rims at home


How To Change A Tire On A Rim: The Ultimate Guide

It sounds like a tough job. How do you remove and replace a car tire on a rim? But, if you own a bicycle, you may be familiar with the process because its just about exactly the same.

The main difference between changing car tires and bike tires that are on rims is how easy the bike tire is to work with. While you can more or less twist the bike tire on and off with minimal tools and effort, removing the tire of a car, in the same way, might seem impossible.

That seeming impossibility disappears quickly when you arm yourself with the right removal tools for the job. And when you do, you can save money by swapping your winter tires for summers, and vice versa. Here are the steps to follow to change an automobile tire on a rim.

  1. Your Tire-Change Tool List – We mentioned the right tools and the following are a bare minimum. If you plan to regularly change your tires, it is worth investing in tire changing tools which you can find at Canadian Tire, Walmart and even on Amazon.
    • Two 4-ft pry bars, preferably designed with flat ends for removing tires
    • A tool for breaking the tire bead
    • A rubber hammer
    • A valve stem core removal tool
  2. Deflate the Tire – With the wheel off of the car, remove the valve core with the valve core removal tool. Removing the core could be tricky because the tire pressure could cause it to pop away from the wheel, so continue to use the tool until the core is completely removed.
  3. Break the Bead – Without the right tools, this could be the most difficult part of the whole job. The idea is to put enough pressure on the side of the tire to break the bead that holds it in place on the wheel. If you don’t have a tire changer tool, you can try using the pry bars, but be careful not to damage the wheel.
    Some people place the tire and wheel flat on the ground and use another vehicle to drive over the tire, being careful not to drive over the wheel, to break the bead. You must break the bead on both sides of the tire.
  4. Remove the Tire – With the tire and wheel flat on the ground, place the flat end of one of the pry bars between the tire and rim. Pull the bar back, flat across the centre of the wheel to get the first part of the tire to the outside of the rim. Leave that pry bar in place and secure it so it can’t pop out from between the tire and rim.
    • Use the second pry in a similar way as you did the first, but do so on the rim about six inches from where the first bar is. The idea is to get the entire section of the tire between the pry bars over the outside edge of the rim. When you do, it should be easy to pry the remainder of the first edge of the tire over the edge of the rim.
    • Turn the tire and wheel over. The edge of the rim should be outside the edge of the tire. Lift the rim until its bottom edge hits the top edge of the tire. Similar to how what you did on the first edge, get one pry bar into place between tire and rim and use the other to work around the tire
    • Use the second pry in a similar way as you did the first, but do so on the rim about six inches from where the first bar is. The idea is to get the entire section of the tire between the pry bars over the outside edge of the rim. When you do, it should be easy to pry the remainder of the first edge of the tire over the edge of the rim.Turn the tire and wheel over. The edge of the rim should be outside the edge of the tire. Lift the rim until its bottom edge hits the top edge of the tire. Similar to how what you did on the first edge, get one pry bar into place between tire and rim and use the other to work around the tire.
  5. Put the New Tire Onto the Rim – Replace the valve stem core. It will help to spray the outside of the tire’s rim on both sides of the tire with soapy water to help it slide onto the rim. Place the tire evenly spaced over the rim. If you’re lucky you should be able to push down on the tire so the lower rim goes over the top rim of the wheel at least at one point. You can use a pry bar to get the rest of the tire rim onto the wheel and to get the top rim of the tire onto the wheel afterward.

You may still need to get the wheels balanced at an auto body shop, tire shop or service centre. But at least you won’t be paying for the entire job.

If you enjoyed this post, check out our recent article about how to boost a car.

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The Ultimate Dummy Guide: How To Remove A Tire From A Rim (With And Without A Machine)

Tires are just as crucial as the engine when it comes to maintaining your car’s safety and performance. At some point, however, tires wear out and this compromises the car’s efficiency, especially in traction and braking ability which can potentially lead to fatal road accidents.

If any of your tires exhibit a pattern of excessive wear, it’s about time you change them. Changing tires involves taking off the rubber tread that is tucked inside the wheel’s rim, a grunt work that many would rather pass and hand to a mechanic.

But what if we tell you, popping the bead out of the rim is not too much of a mundane job if you are armed with the in-depth information on how to do so. Doing your own tires will save you a lot of money from costly repairs that should be otherwise spent wisely spent on other car-related maintenance.

With few hand tools and tricks, you can remove the bead off the rim yourself. But the easiest and quickest way to do it is by using a tire-changing machine. This article will cover both of these methods.

REMOVING THE TIRE MANUALLY BY HAND

Prying the tire loose from the rim might sound intimidating especially if you are a novice or new to tire maintenance. But you don’t really have to be an auto mechanic or expert to do the task.  All you need is the right tools, basic mechanic skills, and know-how. The following is an easy guide to carry out the goal.

What you will need:

●     Lubricant (Alternative: liquid dish soap or oil)

●     Crowbar, Prybar, Tire Levers, Tire iron (any of these)

●     Presta or Schnader or any Valve Core Removal Tool (Alternative: Pliers)

●     Screwdriver

●     To break the bead manually, you need either one of these things: a Jack, a Knife or any other sharp cutting tool, a vehicle

●     Optional: Tire Bead Breaker, Tape

The Procedure:

  1. Using the core removal tool, deflate the tire by removing the air cap from the tire. The air cap or valve core is a small pressure sealing device made of either rubber or metal cylinder located on the core which is where the tire is inflated from.  You will need a Schrader or Presta valve tool to extract the air cap from the rim.

Thread the tool inside the valve stem and twist it in a counterclockwise direction. This should loosen and remove the cap off the tire. Then release and allow the air to exhaust.   

A valve core removal tool is a small metal that resembles a small screwdriver. It is a handy tool that is relatively inexpensive and often available in a set for different valve sizes like that of the Awpeye 4 Pack Valve Core Remover Tool. 

  1. De-bead the tire. Now comes the main and crucial part of the disengaging the bead off the rim. The bead is basically the edge of the tread near the inner circle reinforced firmly against the rim through braided steel cable and strong glue. There are three methods and tricks you can use to break the bead bundle between the bead and the rim.

●     Drive and run over the tire you are working on. The aim is to force the rubber down so its easier for the bead to pop out. Hence when driving your vehicle over the tire, make sure that it is the rubber part you are driving onto and not the metal rim. You may need to run the car over it a few times to break the rubber part.

●     Put the whole weight of the vehicle on the tire via suspension. The method involves raising the vehicle using a  jack and partially lowering it. Once the vehicle is lifted, place the tire underneath the jack. Adjust the jack and lower the vehicle onto the bead part of the tire. Warning: Do not attempt this method if you are new to the process of car suspension unless there is an expert or professional supervision. The procedure requires lifting a car and working underneath it which is can be really dangerous to you and to your vehicle especially if you don’t know what you are doing.

●     Cut the bead off the rim. You can cut through with it using a saw blade or a drywall knife.    To cut it, follow the seam running alongside the bead, carefully not touching the metal rim. Be cautious as you cut because you don’t want to damage the metal rim To avoid the blade veering towards the tread, insert a wooden towel in the sections that are already cut. 

If you are really having a hard time with the bead, you can easily get away with a bead breaker tool. A tire bead breaker is a handy tool designed to dismount the innermost diameter of the tire interfacing the wheel. The operation is so fast and easy it’s basically like opening a canned good! It’s also the safest way to de-bead without damaging the rim. To make the most of your purchase, invest in a well-designed bead breaker like that of BeadBuster XB-450. To date, this is the most affordable and efficient bead breaker.

  1. Lubricate the edge of the rim. Once you have managed to break the bead, grease the edge around the rim as well as the bead by applying the lubricant. This will prep the area when prying the tire later on. You will find it easier to pop the bead off the lip of the rim easily once everything is lubricated. Use as much as a lubricant as necessary. To avoid accidentally scratching the metal easily while prying, you can also tape the edge of the rim prior to lubrication. 
  1. Wedge open the space between the tire and the rim using a pry bar and screwdrivers. Firstly, lay the tire flat on the ground. By stepping on the rubber or pressing a force, push the rubber down to create an opening. Gently jam the pry bar on the opening then carefully lift the bead until it is above the rim. Hold it in place. While the pry bar is holding the bead in place, work your way to bead up the other half by using a screwdriver.credits to wayalife.com
  2. Continue prying on the other half.  At this point, it is only the bottom half that is loosened, you still have to work on the other half of the tire. So to do this, flip the wheel over on the other side and pry in the wheel off in the same fashion as you were prying in step 4. Use as many pry and screwdriver alongside lubricant as necessary.
  3. Take the metal rim out of the rubber. The entire half of the tire should be fully loosened at this point so all you need to do is grab the rim and pull it as far as you can until the bead is free

REMOVING THE TIRE USING A  MANUAL TIRE CHANGING MACHINE

 

If you find taking a tire off a rim by hands too much of a task, time to pull out the big weapon. A tire changing machine skips most of the lengthy process of manually separating the tire from the rim.

Note that the tire changing machine we are referring to differs from that of the actual heavy-duty tire changing equipment technicians used in the shop. The manual tire changing machine is a rather portable and handy tool that requires no power hookups to operate. While the machine will mostly do the job, you will still need the help of a few hand tools.

What you will need:

●     Plywood Board (Alternative: any strong wood surface that is at least ¾ inches thick)

●     Manual Tire Changing Machine

●     Tire Changing Rod (Alternative: any metal rod or tube with a pointed tip)

●     Screwdriver

●     Bolts (preferably 5 inches long and ½ inch wide)

●     Presta or Schnader or any Valve Core Removal Tool (Alternative: Pliers)

●     Marker or Pencil

●     Lubricant (Alternative: liquid dish soap or oil)

●     Optional: rug or paper        

The Procedure:

  1. Set the plywood base. The goal is to create a platform strong enough for the machine to stand on. First, you need to place the machine on top of the plywood. Using a marker, trace the machine’s base on the platform. Do put a mark on the holes or the location of the bolt as well.

Some prefer a block of concrete as a base because they are sturdier and stable. Others drill the machine directly on the floor. But note that you will need a mason drill to engage the bolts into hard cement. Nonetheless, the bolting process is the same as with the wood material.

  1. Secure the machine on the platform by bolting it.  Now its time to screw the bolts and the machine into it the holes that you marked up. Obviously, you will need a screwdriver to do it. Placed the machined on top of the traced base and position the bolts properly. If you haven’t used a screwdriver before, you need to hold the tool with both of your hands, with the dominant hand on the handle and the other hand on the metal tip. Apply a decent force as you turn the screwdriver clockwise. Twist it until the bolts are tightened fully and bite into the wood.
  1. Take the air off the tire by removing the core valve. The air or the core valve is that black rubber or metallic spoke sticking out the front end of the rim. Twist the air cap counterclockwise until fully removed. Insert the core valve removal tool into the valve and twist it counterclockwise until the valve stem is removed.
  1. Set the tire on the machine and clamp it in place. First, you need to look for the machine’s nub which is that small triangle shape on the base. This is where you will lay the wheel flat with the front of the rim facing upward. Once the wheel is rested on the nub, hook the tire changer arm (that wedge that looks like a bulldozer’s lift cylinder) on top of the rubber. Then use the clamp to hold it in place.
  1. Brake the tire bead from the rim using the tire changing rod. There should be a changing rod that comes with your tire changing machine but any regular metal tube with a pointed end will do. You will use it to expose the rim of the tire. Start the process by sticking the rod’s pointed end into the rim-tire joint. Using your hand or your foot, apply pressure on the wedge by pushing it down. This will gradually exposed the rim.
  1. Turn over the wheel and repeat steps 4 and 5. The other half lip has the rim exposed but you are still stuck with the backside of the rim. So flip your wheel to the other side. Place it on the nub and clamp it to the machine. In the same manner, push the arm down and expose the rim of the wedge using the metal rod.
  1. Lay the tire on that cylindrical disc-like metal located on the top of the machine. To do this, follow the below steps.
    1. Insert the tire into the big spoke. The big spoke or central spoke is the central tube where the machine arms are attached. There should be smaller stick-like spoke beside the central spoke so make sure that as you slide the metal rim,  the tire passes through the smaller spoke by aligning it into the lug nut. To avoid scratches on the rim while inserting the rim, you can wrap a rug or any cloth (a paper may do) around the spoke.
    1. Slide in the bracket piece into the central spoke. The bracket is that a metal piece that secures the tire from tilting or turning while you are pulling the bead up later on.
    1. Attach the top cap. The cap is that the cylinder cover of the central spoke. Twist it clockwise to secure it in place. To tighten it further, you may use the machine’s separate rod. Simply engage rod’s end (the one with rectangular tip) with the cap’s hook and twist it clockwise to screw it in place. 
  1.  Pour the lubricant around the rim. This will make it easier for you to pry the rim of the bead later on. Make sure the area underneath the rim are also lubricated so partially lift the rim up to reach under it.   Apply generous amount lubrication as necessary.
  1. Using the tire changing rod, pry the tire over the lip of the rim. Insert the rod’s duck-head end down the circumference of the tire. Still holding the rod, lift the bottom bead of the tire up. Work your way on the other angles as you slide the rod on the clockwise motion until all side are loosened or until the tread is loose enough to pop the bead off.

You may not be able to pry a certain section in one shot and that is fine. If this happens,  simply go back by lifting the foot pedal using your foot to turn the rod counterclockwise.

  1. Free the entire tread of the rim. Get the tire all the way up by sliding the rod all the way down to the bottom section of the wheel. Then pry the bottom side until you can fully lift the tire out of the rim.

Related video:

Now it’s all in your hands.

This article has thoroughly discussed the process of disengaging the tire from the rim and now it’s your turn to take the wheel. Sure, the entire process of changing your own tire– from removing the wheel of the vehicle to fitting new tires might seem lengthy and complicated but hey at least we have taken down one of its processes, namely removing the tire off the wheel. Doing your own tires will save you money and soon enough, you will be reaping the satisfying feeling of your hard work.  

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When is it really time to change your tires to winter?

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The tire manufacturer's instructions say to change shoes when the temperature drops below +7°C. In my opinion, it's too early. There are still a lot of cars with summer tires on the roads around. And at this temperature, the braking distance on studded tires may be even longer.

I advise you to change the wheels to winter ones when the temperature drops below zero at night. That's when it really is time, because in the morning an icy area may come across on the roads. At the same time, out of habit, it will seem very slippery. nine0003

Why change the shoes yourself?

Precisely in order to do it at the most correct and convenient time. The vagaries of the weather are unpredictable. Residents of the Rostov region, for example, say that sometimes during the winter period they rearrange the wheels from winter to summer and back several times.

Dismantling wheels (that is, dismantling a tire from a rim) at home is a difficult task that requires appropriate skills and knowledge. We will describe a simpler job that, in theory, any average motorist who does not have special tools and experience in tire fitting should be able to handle. And therefore we mean that you have a complete set of serviceable winter tires mounted on disks. You remember that in the spring they did not lose pressure, there are no cuts on them, and a couple of self-tapping screws do not stick out of the tread in addition to the spikes. And, most importantly, the tread height is more than 4 mm. These are the modern requirements for winter tires. If at least one of the conditions is violated, then it is better to solve the problem before the onset of the hot tire season. nine0003

To balance or not?

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There are car owners who meticulously balance tires before each season. In my opinion, this is not justified by anything. I recommend installing the wheels on the car, then drive at different speeds, but not higher than your usual ones. If the imbalance (it is manifested by vibrations on the steering wheel or seat) is not felt, then balancing can be postponed until future seasons. In principle, winter tires can be balanced before being stored for storage: after all, the spring period for changing wheels in tire shops is more extended in time compared to autumn, and therefore the queues are noticeably shorter. nine0003

What tire pressure should I set?

So we take the wheels out of storage. For one, this is the corner of the garage, for the other, a balcony, for the third, the warehouse of the nearest car service that provides a wheel storage service. Depending on storage conditions, tires may have different temperatures. Wheels removed from a warm room, having cooled down by 20 ° C, will lose about 0.2 bar of pressure, and gradually, as they cool down. Well, the cold ones have nothing to lose! Therefore, cold ones can be immediately pumped up to the nominal pressure, well, maybe 0.1–0.2 bar more, given that it will only get colder further. And warm tires must either be inflated with a large margin immediately, or set the pressure at the end of all work, when the air in them cools down. nine0003

If you use a standard jack, it is better to place a special stand under the car for insurance. Well, or at least place the spare wheel so that when it falls, the threshold lies on the rim, and not on the tire. Please note that this will most likely damage the disc. Therefore, it is better to use an old unnecessary wheel.

If you use a regular jack, it is better to place a special stand under the car for insurance. Well, or at least place the spare wheel so that when it falls, the threshold rests on the rim, and not on the tire. Please note that this will most likely damage the disc. Therefore, it is better to use an old unnecessary wheel. nine0003

How to change wheels correctly?

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We find a flat area with a hard surface. If you change wheels yourself twice a year, then I strongly advise you to get a convenient jack. At least small and inexpensive, but rolling. It is noticeably more reliable and durable than the regular one that was equipped with your car. It is advisable to use a balloon wrench with a cruciform or with an extended handle - it is more convenient than the standard one attached to the car. nine0003

Prepare a wheel stop - yes, at least half a brick. Inspect the secret key for damaged code elements and clean the secret nuts/bolts on all wheels.

If the winter set of wheels has different disc characteristics, remember if spacers are needed between the disc and the hub lug - they should be prepared in advance.

The wheel jack is based on a hydraulic cylinder. Raises quickly, and lowers even faster.

The wheel jack is based on a hydraulic cylinder. Raises quickly, and lowers even faster. nine0003

  1. If the tires have a directional tread pattern, we strictly select the wheels in the direction of rotation. Two right wheels and two left. The arrow on the sidewall will help us. For installation on the front axle, we try to choose less worn tires.
  2. We orient the steering wheel straight, turn off the engine, set the car on the handbrake. The automatic transmission selector is in the Parking position, if the car is with a manual gearbox, then the lever is left in gear. We put an emphasis under the wheel, located diagonally from the one we are going to shoot. nine0088
  3. We bring the jack under a reinforced place on the threshold of the car. It is usually indicated by a triangle on the threshold or is well palpable on the flanging. We slightly raise the car with a jack, but not until the wheel comes off. We unscrew the completely secret nut / bolt. We loosen the rest of the fasteners by half a turn.
  4. We hang out the wheel completely with the help of a jack and remove it. While the wheel is removed, it is convenient to assess the condition of the pads, brake disc and brake hose, and for many cars you can still inspect the CV joint boot and the anti-roll bar. We clean the mating surface of the hub from dirt with a metal brush and apply a thin layer of lubricant. Better special, copper. nine0088
  5. We put a wheel with a winter tire. We bait the fasteners and tighten it evenly crosswise or as an asterisk is drawn. We lower the wheel to the ground and finally tighten the fasteners. Do not overdo it. In almost all cars, except for large SUVs, the tightening torque does not exceed 100–110 N∙m. That is, on a convenient half-meter key, the force should not exceed 20 kg. Jumping on the key is definitely not worth it! The lock is tightened last and with a slightly lower torque than the rest of the nuts / bolts.
  6. One wheel has been replaced. We repeat the procedure three more times - and that's it. We are ready for winter when we decide it ourselves, and not when we stand in line at the tire shop.

Just in case, after the first ride, check the tightness of the wheel fasteners, and the next morning, check the tire pressure.

  • How to choose a good tire shop? We talked about it here.

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Driving in Zen

News smi2. ru

How to change the tires on the wheels yourself, instructions

For normal operation of the car, it is periodically necessary to replace and install high-quality tires. This is an almost simple process, but not all motorists can handle it, especially for beginners. nine0003

Usually replacement is carried out for certain reasons:

  • serious deformation or puncture of several tires without the possibility of their repair and restoration;
  • heavy wear of one or more tires;
  • seasonal replacement of summer tires with winter tires or vice versa.

To carry out competent work on replacing rubber, it is necessary to follow the recommendations and rules. Otherwise, it can lead to a wheel out on the track and a serious accident. nine0003

Contents

  1. General recommendations and rules for changing tires
  2. Changing tires due to severe wear
  3. Changing car tires for a serious defect
  4. Installing new rubber on a rim
  5. Rubber on the front axle of the vehicle

General recommendations and rules for changing tires

First of all, you need to know that the tires to be installed must comply with the general dimensions and characteristics recommended by the car manufacturer. There may be small differences, but not more than 2%. nine0003

General properties and dimensions are specified in the vehicle's instruction manual. If these are not available, use the recommendation of the car dealer.

The next step is to find out the load index of the tire being installed, as well as the speed characteristics. They should not be less than the parameters specified in the instructions from the manufacturer.

Tire changes can be made with higher index values, but not with lower requirements. Typically, indexes are indicated in the operating instructions for the car. nine0003

Next, analyze the air pressure characteristics of the tires. The indicators must be completely identical with the factory settings. Otherwise, the wheel may be severely deformed and burst when driving a passenger car.

If the tires are over-inflated or, conversely, have less air, this will negatively affect the stability of the vehicle and its high handling characteristics. Tire pressure indicators are indicated in the operating instructions for the car. nine0003

Now let's highlight another important rule that beginners and experienced car owners should use when installing a complete set of tires: when purchasing sets of tires, you need to make sure that the characteristics of the landing and offset of the disk correspond to the factory parameters of the vehicle.

If these properties do not match, then this will negatively affect the handling of the car and quickly lead to deformation of the car suspension. General departure and landing characteristics are specified by the tire manufacturer and the factory where the vehicles are produced. nine0003

Replacing tires due to heavy wear

On any type of passenger car, the front tires are most often deformed, since most passenger vehicles have front drive axles. Accordingly, the rear wheels on them are subject to less wear.

Many owners often try to regularly change the front tires, and leave the rear tires for a few more seasons.

But in this situation, every car enthusiast should know that the absolute indicators of safe and reliable driving will only be achieved by using all 4 tires with the same tread. nine0003

Therefore, it is recommended to replace all sets, not just the front wheels. Because the vehicle loses high control, resulting in poor suspension performance.

Naturally, tires are expensive products and not everyone can afford to regularly replace products, especially in a complete set.

In such a situation, you can divide the installation of tires into two stages. To begin with, the front tires are replaced and after a certain period of time the rear tires are installed. However, all processes are recommended to be performed only with identical pairs of tires. nine0003

It is also not recommended to tighten the process of mounting the rear rubber. Since at the time of driving a car, the level of risk of skidding on the rear axle increases.

Replacing car tires in case of a serious defect

If the installation of new tires has to be done urgently due to deformation of the old ones, then you should know a certain rule. Regardless of the model or brand of tires, the thickness of all four treads must be identical to each other. nine0003

If only one tire is damaged and cannot be repaired, at least a pair of new ones should be used.

Only one damaged tire can be replaced if the set is brand new and has only been driven a few hundred kilometers.

In this situation, the owner of the vehicle can purchase only one similar tire and install it instead of the damaged one, without fear of losing the quality of control and safety while driving. nine0003

When a motorist has traveled more than 1000 km, it is no longer possible to change only one tire. The protectors wear out quickly enough, and balance will probably be lost when installing only one new one.

It is not recommended to allow a situation where the thickness of the tire tread on one of the axles has different indicators, because the balance and high-quality control of the vehicle are lost.

Installing new tires on the rim

Immediately before installing a new tire on the rim, a detailed check of its condition is required. nine0003

First of all, it is recommended to carefully inspect the tire for possible defects or small microcracks, and also to make sure that its dimensions correspond to a cast or stamped wheel.

The disc is checked for serious defects, warping, and rim and rim wear. It is recommended to remove additional weights balancing the wheel and valve at the time of replacing the old rubber. This procedure is performed only in the situation when the tire does not have a chamber. nine0003

When installing a new tire, it is advisable to take into account the marking in the form of colored marks applied to its surface. They indicate the main direction of rotation in the form of an arrow on the side.

Easier and easier mounting of the tire is directly related to the application of individual spots on its beads or the use of soapy liquid. However, do not overdo it with lubrication, as the rubber will begin to slide on the disc rim.

Installation of new rubber on the disc is carried out in the opposite direction with respect to dismantling. First you need to put the tire on one side of the disc rim, and then insert the inner tube. Moreover, the valve should fall into a small hole in the rim. The next step is to install the second sidewall of the rubber. nine0003

How to correctly inflate the rubber for a reliable rim additive

If the tire has a chamber, then a simple procedure is followed. First, you should inflate the tire with a pump or compressor with a certain pressure level that does not exceed the norm.

Thus, the tire fits well on the rim, after which the air pressure should be reduced to the desired parameters. Here it is important to take into account the fact that the pressure is measured at the moment when the tire is installed on the wheel, subject to the car weight. nine0003

For tubeless tyres, this process is a bit more complicated. A simple pump for pumping or a special compressor cannot be used until the rubber beads are completely leaning against the disc rim, since air actively penetrates through the gap between it and the tire.

You can use an alternative method: inflate the vehicle tire to four atmospheres. Then we remove the hose and install one of its ends on the valve of the mounted rubber. nine0003

First unscrew the nipple and insert a part of the hose with a special fitting into the inflated tire.

Then, once the nipple is installed, most of the air will enter the tubeless tires and set them in place by stabilizing the pressure. At car service stations, original compressors with large receivers are used to inflate wheels.

However, this task can be done by yourself, if you show a little skill and logic. Also, do not forget that after installing new rubber, the wheel is balanced. nine0003

Rubber on the front axle of the vehicle

Every owner and experienced motorist knows that the front tires should be changed at the very beginning. Since the car is subject to a lot of skidding when driving on worn rear tires, there is a great risk of deformation and rupture of the front wheels.


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