If you’re new to cycling, you’d be forgiven if for assuming that all mountain bike tires are basically the same: They’re the knobby ones, right? Yes… But mountain bike tires can vary hugely in their size, materials, durability, and, depending on those knobs, the type of terrain and riding style they’re designed to handle.
A properly chosen mountain bike tire can make a ride more comfortable, safer, and give you more traction on the trail. It can shave grams off of your total bike weight, or it can make you less prone to flat tires. Tires are quite literally the base of the bike -its connection to the ground- so the tires you use make a big difference to your ride quality.
Here’s what you need to know to understand how MTB tires work, the differences in construction and type, and how to choose the best mountain bike tire for your bike and riding style…
Tires are generally marketed for four types of mountain bikes and styles of riding:
Cross-country / XC / Marathon: If you’re all about speed and climbing, and you’re a bit of a weight weenie or planning to race, cross-country mountain bike tires are for you. They’re thinner and lighter than the other options, and will roll faster. They generally have smaller, lower, and/or fewer knobs, and distinct front- and rear-specific tires are common.
While lighter means faster, the weight savings come at the expense of protection. XC tires have fewer layers of puncture and cut protection, so they may not be the best choice for gnarly trails, though burlier tires for cross country bikes are available. (We’ll explain all the layers and construction a little further down)
c. Bartek Wolinski for NS BikesTrail / All-Mountain / Enduro: For most people, this is what they mean when they say “Mountain Biking”. Moving up in travel, you have Trail bikes (120-140mm), All Mountain (140-170mm), and Enduro (160-180mm).
The tires get bigger, tougher, and more aggressive as you move up that ladder, too.
Here, knobs are taller and start to get supporting trusses to hold up to higher speed, more aggressive cornering. Tire size and volume increase to offer more traction and support, and they add more protective layers to the casing. Some tires get dual rubber compounds to put more grip on the sides.
c. Ryan Finlay for CanyonDownhill / DH / Gravity: If you’ve ever been to a lift-served bike park, you know what downhill bikes look like. They’re burly, have massive suspension, and DH tires are built extra tough to withstand serious drops, huge obstacles, and hard hits.
c. Devinci BikesPlus / Fat Bikes: These bikes are designed for wider tire clearance. Fat bikes are typically ridden in snow (or occasionally sand, like on beaches) because their massive volume provides great flotation in soft surfaces.
“Plus” bikes sit between fat and trail-sized tires, and had a brief period of popularity with 2.
8″ to 3.0″ tires because the added width boosted comfort and traction. But the category has mostly gone away, and most regular mountain bikes and suspension forks won’t fit tires this wide.
An MTB tire size is typically expressed as wheel diameter x tire width (like 29 x 2.4).
Generally, mountain bike tires come in three diameters – 26″, 27.5″ and 29″. There are also smaller ones for children’s bikes, ranging from 12 to 24 inches in diameter.
The second number is the width and can range from 1.9″ for ultralight race bikes (and kids’ bikes) to 5″ for fat bikes.
While the 26, 27.5 or 29-inch measurement is based on your wheel size, the tire width is determined in part by how much clearance you have between your fork or rear triangle and your tire, and by your personal preference. You’ll have a range of widths to choose from, depending on what you’re looking for in a tire. In general:
9″ to 2.25″ widthAnother major consideration is matching your tire width to the correct rim width. We have a full technical article on which widths work together to help you stay within the safe ranges.
Downhill is simple…if you’re riding at a downhill bike park, you need DH tires. The difference between trail/enduro tires and cross-country tires is a bit more subtle.
From there, a good starting point is checking the size of tire that comes stock on your bike, then determining what type of tire and features best match your terrain and riding style. Just because you have a “trail” bike with 140mm of travel doesn’t mean you can’t put a more aggressive “enduro” tire on it if that’s what’ll work best for you…or vice versa.
But what features do you need? For that, let’s look at tire construction…
The simple answer is “rubber.” But it’s a bit more complicated than that. We have a deep dive on tire construction right here, but here’s the quick version:
RUBBER: Every brand has their own unique rubber compounds designed to excel in different ways, and many disclose the durometer (aka “firmness”) of the rubber. Lower durometer numbers (40-60) are softer and have better the grip, but they’ll roll slower and wear out faster. Harder rubber (higher durometer, usually 60-72) provides lower rolling resistance so you can go faster, but won’t grip as well.
Higher end tires usually get dual compounds, putting a softer rubber on the side knobs for better cornering, and firmer rubber in the middle for faster rolling and better braking.
CASING: Every tire has a casing that the rubber is applied to. It’s usually a woven nylon fabric.
Cheaper tires have lower TPI casings, but most “performance” tires start at 60tpi and this is a great baseline because it’s both flexible and sturdy. More aggressive tires sometimes use two 60tpi casing layers to add more support and cut protection. The tradeoff is they’re less supple and can have a firm-feeling ride, although they’re also better able to handle lower tire pressures without getting squirmy.
Lighter-weight “race” tires can get 120tpi casings, which use thinner fibers to increase the thread count. They are very flexible and help the tire deform to match the terrain, so they feel amazing, but they’re expensive and not nearly as cut resistant.
REINFORCEMENTS: In addition to the casings, some tires add reinforcements to further prevent sidewall cuts, punctures, and pinch flats. Look for a Kevlar or Aramid layer under the tread (puncture protection) or on the sidewall (cut resistance), or both.
An “Apex” layer is a small foam or rubber wedge layered between the casings by the tire’s bead.
It adds a bit of sidewall support, but its main purpose is add a cushion between the sidewall and the rim to prevent snakebite punctures when you hit a sharp edge really hard.
All of these technologies work great, but they all add weight and cost. Knobbier, more aggressive tires pedal slowly and can really sap your energy on the climbs and flats. So, only buy as much tire as you really need.
You may notice that some tires in your local bike shop are sold neatly folded up in a cardboard wrap, while others are open to full size.
Cheaper tires use rigid wire beads because they’re easier to manufacturer and cost less. Some downhill tires still use wire beads because weight doesn’t matter as much and they’re a bit less likely to come off the rim, but mostly you’ll want to upgrade to…
Folding bead tires use Kevlar beads, which are much lighter. Kevlar won’t stretch, so it’s unlikely to come off the rim (never say never, but it’s basically a non-issue), and these are easier to mount on modern tubeless-ready rims.
Those knobs on the tire—also known as lugs—provide traction. We did a deep dive on MTB tire knobs here, but for a quick reference, here are the basics:
Most lugs are designed to roll in a certain direction, which is usually indicated on the tire. Mount them backward and you’ll end up adding resistance to your ride rather than improving your traction. And some tires, like the Ritchey Trail series above, are front- and rear-wheel specific.
Absolutely! A lot of top pro racers will opt for more traction in the front and a faster-rolling tire in the rear. For example, Canyon MTB Racing’s Emily Batty is a fan of the Schwalbe Racing Ray tire in the front and the Racing Ralph in the rear. The front-wheel-designed Racing Ray in the front offers an aggressive XC tread developed for optimal steering precision with its lug design, while the Racing Ralph in the rear rolls faster.
(This combination is also a favorite of Bikerumor staffers.)
A lot of mountain bikes and wheelsets are sold as tubeless-compatible, though many may not come actually set up with tubeless tires. As the name implies, tubeless tires don’t require tubes and instead use tape around the wheel’s inner rim to seal off the spoke holes. Sealant is poured into the tire and the tire is seated, usually using an air compressor or a bike pump with a “booster” chamber in order to add enough air quickly to get the tires to ‘sit’ on the rim of the wheel.
The sealant does exactly what you’d assume it would: Keeps the air sealed into your tire, even if you get a small puncture or you hit an obstacle hard and pinch your tire. This means you can run lower pressures for better comfort and traction, and you save the weight of the tube, too. However, they are harder to deal with if things do go awry and can be messy, so if you’re not much of a mechanic, you may want to stick to regular tubes while you build your skills.
You can attempt to turn any mountain bike tire into a tubeless setup, but we wouldn’t recommend it unless both your tire and rim are labeled as ‘Tubeless Compatible’ or ‘Tubeless Ready’.
Fortunately, almost every modern mountain bike tire (especially ones you’d be upgrading to) are now tubeless-ready. And most modern mountain bike wheels use tubeless-ready rims, all of which are manufactured to meet size and diameter standards to ensure a safe, secure fit. As long as you’re buying a reputable, major brand of wheel/rim and tire, tubeless setup is easy and reliable, and will improve your ride quality.
In addition to putting tires into the XC, trail or downhill categories, brands often categorize their tires by the conditions that the lugs are optimized for. As you look for a tire, think about the terrain you typically ride, and whether you prefer comfort or speed.
There’s a huge range of pricing when it comes to mountain bike tires. A decent tire can be as inexpensive as $30 per tire, but can easily climb up to over $100 per tire.
The sweet spot is right around $50-70/tire when it comes to cost versus value for most riders.
So, which type and brand should you buy? We’re adding MTB cross country, enduro, and downhill tire buyer’s guides, here’s what’s live now:
What questions do you have about MTB tires? Leave ’em in the comments and we’ll answer them!
Feature image © Pirelli
Your bicycle’s tires might not be something you think about very often, but they have crucial implications for every aspect of your ride. Better understanding how your mountain, gravel, and road bike tire size is measured can help you fine-tune your equipment, and learning how tire size relates to performance can make you faster when it counts.
What are the basics of bike tire size?
Bike tires are typically measured in two dimensions— diameter and width. The diameter measurement is an approximation of the tire’s total outside diameter including treads, and the width is a measurement of the approximate total width of the tire when mounted and inflated. For mountain bike tires these dimensions are expressed in inches, while a millimeter-based system called French sizing is used for road, gravel, and track. For example, a 29 x 2.25 mountain bike tire is about 29” in diameter and about 2.25” wide, while a 700c x 25 road tire is approximately 700mm in diameter and 25mm wide.
This makes it pretty straightforward to fit a modern tire to a modern rim—a 700c tire will almost definitely fit a 700c road rim (we’ll explain that “c” later), and a 29” tire will likely fit a 29” mountain bike rim. But some obsolete or unusual sizes can be misleadingly labeled, and any tire’s nominal measurements (especially width) are really just approximations.
Rim width and tire pressure can significantly influence the size of a tire when mounted and inflated, and tires often measure a bit larger or smaller when installed than the printed dimension would suggest.
To reduce confusion, most tires are also labeled with a second system of measurements called ISO (formerly known as ETRTO). The ISO measurement displays the tire’s nominal width in millimeters, followed by the diameter of the tire’s bead (the surface that actually attaches to the rim) in millimeters (ex: 25 x 622 is a common road tire). This measurement can help resolve any ambiguity about whether a tire will fit a particular rim, but as with other systems, the ISO measurement of a tire’s width is an approximation and may be impacted by pressure and rim width.
Nearly all modern road bikes use 700c wheels and tires. It used to be widely accepted that narrower tires were faster and 23mm was the standard width. But recent research has proven wider tires to be faster and more comfortable in most situations.
As a result, 700c x 25mm and 700c x 28mm are now the most common road tire sizes; many riders prefer even wider widths of 30mm or 32mm. The limiting factor is usually the bike itself, with some frames unable to accommodate tires beyond a certain width. Most new road frames can at least fit up to 28mm tires but double-check your frame’s allowance before sizing up.
A few other less common wheel and tire sizes exist for road bikes. 650b (ISO 584) and the rarer 650c (ISO 571) are two examples, both sometimes used on bikes for smaller riders. The letter that follows the diameter measurement in French tire sizes originally delineated width, but it’s now mostly just useful to differentiate between similarly-named but incompatible sizes. For instance, a 650b tire will not fit on a 650c rim.
It’s also important to understand the different types of mutually-incompatible road tires. Clinchers are most common; these are the familiar tires that seat into a walled rim around an inner tube.
Certain clincher rims can also be used with tubeless tires, which use a liquid sealant in place of an inner tube. Finally, tubular tires are permanently sewn closed around an internal tube and are glued into a specially-made rim. All 3 of these tire types use the same sizing standards and terminology but are generally not interchangeable.
Tires are printed with a manufacturer’s recommended pressure range, and road riders used to think inflating their tires to the highest possible pressure was fastest. But with the move to wider tires has also come a trend towards lower pressure. The science of tire pressure is complicated, but wider tires require less pressure for the same volume of air than narrower tires, allowing for a more comfortable ride. Additionally, wider tires at lower pressures reduce bouncing and are actually faster on most surfaces than smaller, harder tires.
It’s tough to make a generalized recommendation for pressure—riding conditions, your weight, and the tire’s size all play a part.
But generally, the larger the tire and the rougher the surface, the lower the optimal pressure. With each 3mm increase in tire width, you can usually reduce pressure by 1 Bar (~14 psi). Also, tubeless tires can generally be ridden at lower pressures than tubed tires of the same size. Some tire and rim manufacturers have calculators on their websites that make personalized recommendations for pressure; these are a great starting resource to make your ride faster and more efficient.
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Mountain bike tires are measured in inches and are offered in 3 non-interchangeable diameters corresponding to common mountain bike wheel sizes. Most popular for high-end mountain bikes are 29” tires and wheels. Next come 27.5” setups, preferred by some riders who like smaller, slightly more maneuverable wheels.
And finally, 26” wheels and tires used to be the standard, but are now found mostly on entry-level and kids’ bikes.
Tires at each of these diameters are available in a wide variety of widths, which riders select for the specifics of their discipline and terrain. Cross-country racers usually choose comparatively narrow tires ranging from 1.9” to 2.25” wide. Trail, all-mountain, and enduro bikes are normally equipped with wider tires between 2.25” and 2.4”, and downhill tires are even wider at 2.4” to 2.6”. Finally, fat bike tires are mounted on purpose-built rims and push the boundaries even further, sometimes measuring as wide as 5”. The specifics of tire choice are carefully considered by mountain bikers, with racers often choosing different widths and tread patterns depending on the course and conditions.
Interestingly, most mountain bike wheel sizes are actually the same diameter as road wheels—29” wheels are equivalent to 700c, while 27.5” are the same as 650b. But you wouldn’t want to put tires intended for one on a wheel intended for the other, as the rim’s width is dramatically different for road and mountain bikes and would interfere with the tire’s performance.
Tire pressure is a crucial concern in mountain biking. Small changes in pressure can dramatically impact performance and handling on the trail, and experienced mountain bikers regularly adjust pressure depending on terrain, conditions, riding style, and tire choice.
Because all of these variables are factors to consider, it’s nearly impossible to make a general recommendation for mountain bike tire pressure. Online calculators can help suggest a starting pressure based on equipment, weight, and conditions, but in the end, it’s ultimately a matter of personal preference and learning from experience. A good strategy is to treat the first few rides on a new setup or in new terrain as experiments. Carry a digital gauge, start with pressure on the higher side, and gradually let a few psi out/ add some pressure back in as you ride to experiment with what works and feels best. Check and record your pressure when you find the sweet spot and use this as your starting point for future rides.
There are a few general principles to keep in mind when finding the right pressure. Typically, the larger your tire, the lower the optimal pressure. Tires with thinner casings require higher pressure, as do heavier riders. Rocky terrain may also necessitate higher pressure to avoid flats, while lower pressures can be used in smooth, grassy, or muddy conditions. Finally, some riders like to use tire inserts, which provide more flat protection and allow a few psi reduction in pressure.
Gravel, cyclocross, and track cyclists also choose specific tire sizes and pressures to optimize performance.
Cyclocross bikes use 700c road wheels, so cyclocross tires are all designed for this standard diameter. In the past, most serious cyclocross racers used tubular tires, but tubeless tires have become increasingly popular over the last few seasons. Tires at CX events have traditionally been allowed up to a maximum width of 33mm, and UCI-governed events still impose this limit.
Non-UCI races often allow larger tires, such as the 38mm maximum width allowed at USA Cycling masters, collegiate, and single speed national championships. Many local events impose no size restrictions at all—check your race’s rules to know for sure.
Gravel bikes used to be repurposed cyclocross bikes, but with dedicated gravel equipment introduced over the last few years tire options have greatly expanded. Most gravel bikes use 700c wheels, but 650b wheels are occasionally used for especially technical trail riding and bikepacking. Most new gravel bikes have clearance for tires ranging up to at least 42 or 45mm width, and some allow for even wider tires. Virtually all gravel riders use tubeless tires.
Gravel tires all balance speed and efficiency with offroad traction. Narrower tires with minimal treads are fastest on hardpack and paved surfaces but offer poor grip in loose corners. Wider tires with more aggressive tread patterns are more capable on loose terrain but roll much more slowly on smooth or paved roads.
Gravel riders choose the width and tread pattern that offers the best balance for their local terrain, but may significantly adjust their tire choice and pressure for different conditions.
Like road bikes, track bikes use 700c wheels. But unlike on the road where slightly wider and softer tires are usually faster, on a smooth track harder and narrower tires have an advantage. For this reason track racers still prefer 21mm – 23mm wide tubular tires inflated to very high pressures—usually 150 psi or more on indoor tracks. Racers on rougher outdoor tracks don’t inflate their tires quite this high, but they still use much more pressure than they would on the road, with relatively narrow tires offering little in the way of puncture protection.
| Tire Size | Use/ Discipline | ISO Designation |
|---|---|---|
| 700c x 23mm – 32mm | Road/Track | 622 |
| 700c x 35mm – 50mm | Gravel and Mixed surface | 622 |
| 650b x 23mm – 25mm | Small road bikes | 584 |
| 650b x 45mm – 50mm | Gravel and Bikepacking | 584 |
26” x 2. 1” – 2.3” | Cross Country MTB | 559 |
| 26” x 2.3” – 2.5” | Trail | 559 |
| 26” x 2.4” – 2.6” | Enduro/ Downhill | 559 |
| 27.5” x 2.1” – 2.3” | Cross Country MTB/ Gravel | 584 |
| 27.5” x 2.3” – 2.5” | Trail | 584 |
| 27.5” x 2.4” – 2.6” | Enduro and Downhill | 584 |
| 29” x 2.1” – 2.3” | Cross Country MTB | 622 |
| 29” x 2.3” – 2.5” | Trail | 622 |
| 29” x 2.4” – 2.6” | Enduro and Downhill | 622 |
bike tire pressurebike tire sizegravel bike tiresmountain bike tiresroad bike tires
Every bicycle wears out a little as it is used. This also applies to bicycle tires, which are very important to change in a timely manner. To do this, you need to know the tire markings. It is necessary to be guided by the parameters set by the manufacturers.
It should be borne in mind that the wheel, or rather its size, directly affects the parameters of a bicycle tire.
How to determine parameters
EC
Most modern manufacturers use the European marking according to the ETRTO classification. This abbreviation stands for European Tire and Rim Technical Organization.
The following indicators apply here:
8 x 13.8), indicating the approximate height and width of the bike tire, the size of the outer diameter.
By the way, Soviet-made bicycle tires had reverse double markings. The inner diameter of the tire was in first place, the width of the chamber was indicated in the second place.
To date, the marking adopted in Europe is considered the most accurate and convenient in comparison with the rest. nine0003
Dimensioning in inches
This application of indicators also consists of two numbers listed through a multiplication sign or a fraction. For example, if the values are 28 x 1.4, then 28 equals the outer diameter of the tire, and 1.4 is its intended width in inches.
French
French marking may have the following meaning: 700 x 35C. Local manufacturers put down numerical values for width, inner diameter and outer diameter. Therefore, in this case, the figure 700 is the approximate value of the outer diameter.
In turn, the designation "C" determines the inner diameter. The indicator decreases with the movement of the letter to the beginning of the alphabet. Therefore, "A" is the smallest, and "D" is the largest. In the above example, the value "C" defines an internal diameter of 622 mm. This system of recording values is not applicable to all bicycles (for example, not used for mountain bikes). nine0003
How to determine the bore diameter?
So, if you need a bicycle tire, you should initially select the diameter of the wheel rim.
Diameter size 28 and 29 equals 622 mm. These two tires differ only in height and thickness.
27.5-inch wheels require a bore diameter of 584 and 590 mm.
For 26" size, choose 559mm.
Does tire width matter?
Specialized technical sites contain tables of correspondence to help in the selection of cell widths. You can also seek the help of a trusted consultant.
In any case, one rule applies: choose a tire with a width 1.5-2 times the inner width.
In the opposite situation, there is a risk of certain difficulties:
In principle, absolutely anyone is able to determine the labeling of bicycle tires. You only need to remember 2-3 dimensional values \u200b\u200bof your tire in order to name them at the right time. Or you can save the bike tire to show it off when buying a new one.
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What types of markings and interchangeability of bicycle tires. https://www.sportek.in.ua Nikolaev bicycle shop "Sportek"
Published: 01/27/2017
Edited: 06/01/2021
Sooner or later, almost every cyclist faces the question of replacing the rubber on the wheel or the tubes for them.
The easiest way, of course, is to look at the size of the tire currently installed on the bike (it is written on the side of it), and look for exactly the same. On some rims, their landing diameter and width are also written.
In life, everything is always a little more complicated and it often happens that the tire you like has a marking that is not entirely clear or does not match the marking on your rubber. Sometimes it is necessary to replace the old bicycle rubber, which has served for many years, with a more modern one. nine0003
What to do? You can’t put a tire on a bike over the Internet, but you don’t want to pay money just like that.
In this article we will try to help you understand the markings on bicycle tires and find out which of them are interchangeable.
The first thing to know when choosing a tire is the wheel size. They are usually measured in inches, but sometimes in mm. There are not very many of them, and the most common ones are 16, 18, 20, 24, 26, 27.5, 28, 29.
Further, what else you need to know is the seat size (diameter) of the rim or BSD (eng.
Bead Seat Diameter). It is the most important and determines the interchangeability of tires. If this number matches at the rim, tire, or tube, then that tire or tube fits those rims. And if the width of the new rubber can be changed, then the landing size will not change much.
If the size (numbers in mm) is written on the wheel (rim), for example, as in the photos above, they accurately indicate the fit size of the rim and its width, which is the main data for selecting the inner tube and tire for the wheel. nine0003
There are several types. The confusion in the designation of sizes began in the middle of the 20th century, and today Great Britain and France use their own designations for marking.
Previously, the sizing system was based on the outside diameter of the tires. It was measured in inches (24", 26", 28") or in millimeters (500, 650, 700, etc.).
Over time, this system lost its meaning, because different products with the same outer diameter wheels (together with the height of the tire) did not match the inner diameter (rim diameter) on which this tire was put on.
There were also marketing moves of manufacturers, and the accuracy of translation and rounding of measurements in inches is lower than in millimeters.0003
To overcome these confusions and bring all sizes to the same standard, the International Organization for Standardization (ISO - International Organization for Standardization) has developed a universal system for designating tire sizes - ISO 5775 . This system was previously known as " ETRTO ". It was proposed by the organization of the same name: ETRTO (European Tire and Rim Technical Organization or in Russian: "European technical organization for rims and tires"). nine0003
Where: 28 is the outside diameter in inches of and 1 1/8 is its width in inches (one whole and one eighth of an inch). At first it was in the form of a number and a letter, for example, 700C - 700 the outer diameter of the tire is in mm.
The letter determined the width from "A" - the narrowest to "D" - the widest.
Now the marking has acquired a more modern look. For example: 700 x 35C. Here the outer diameter of the tire is 700 mm and its width is 35 mm. The letter at the end indicates the inner (landing) diameter. In this case, "C" is 622 mm. nine0003
Note a very important nuance and paradox in the sizes indicated in inches. Tire sizes can be specified as a decimal fraction, such as 26x1.75, or as a simple fraction, such as 26x1 3/4. nine0003
Mathematically, these fractions are equal: 1.75 = 1 3/4.
But, in terms of fit size and tire width in millimeters, this is not always the case, and the most unpleasant thing is that tires with such dimensions can be not interchangeable with .
And this circumstance should always be taken into account when purchasing a new bike tire.
In the table below, we have tried to collect the most common tire size designations in different systems and show their compatibility. nine0003
Perhaps not all dimensions encountered in life were taken into account, but if you have a tire with dimensions not listed in the table, try to estimate its dimensions based on similar nearest or similar dimensions.
| Rim bore size in mm according to ISO | Tire size in plain and decimal inches | French tire size | Tire size in mm according to ISO (width - bore) | Explanations |
| 681 | 22-681 | Sports track bike B-64 "Record" KhVZ (1958) | ||
| 642 | 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2 | 700-28A | 28-642 | Obsolete size |
| 28 x 1 3/8 | 700-35A | 37-642 | ||
| 635 | 28 x 1 1/2 x 1 1/8 | 700-28B | 32-635 | American, English, Danish, Chinese, Indian road models |
| 28 x 1 1/2, 28 x 1 1/2 x 1 5/8 | 700-38B, 700B Standard | 40-635 | ||
| 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2 | 44-635 | |||
| 630 | 27 x 7/8 | 22-630 | Road bikes, including older models | |
| 27 x 1 | 25-630 | |||
| 27 x 1 1/8 | 28-630 | |||
| 27 x 1 1/4 | 32-630 | |||
| 27 x 1 3/8 | 37-630 | |||
| 27 x all options | ||||
| 622 | 29 x all variants | 700C | This size was invented by marketers for tires with a bore diameter of 622 mm. They differ from 28 only in tire height. | |
| 28 x decimal | 700C | For 622 mm tires | ||
| 28 x 3/4 | nine0235 700-18C18-622 | |||
| 700-19C 700x19C | 19-622 | |||
| 28 x 3/4 | 700-20C 700x20C | 20-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 28 x 7/8 | 700-23C 700x23C | 23-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 | 700-25C 700x25C | 25-622 | nine0249||
| 28 x 1 1/8, 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/8 | 700-28C 700x28C | 28-622 | ||
| 28 x 1.20 | 700-30C 700x30C | 30-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 3/4, 28 x 1.5 | 700x38C 700-40C | 40-622 | Road bikes: "Ukraine", "Minsk", "Sura", "Velta", "Aist" (111-321, 111-322) | |
| 28 x 1 1/2, 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 | 700C 700x35C 700x38C | 35-622 | Road bikes: "Ukraine", "Minsk", "Sura", "Velta", "Aist" | |
| 27 x 1 1/4, 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/4 | 700-32C 700x32C | 32-622 | Road and sports touring bicycles, "Tourist", "Sport", "Sputnik" | |
| 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/4 | Obsolete Canadian designation F13 | |||
28 x 1. 4 | 700-35C 700x35C | 35-622 | Road bikes | |
| 28 x 1.5 | 700x38C 700-38C 700-40C 700x40C | 40-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 3/8 x 1 5/8 | 37-622 | |||
| 28 x 1.6 | 700-42C 700x42C | 42-622 | ||
| 28 x 1.6 | 700-44C 700x44C | 44-622 | ||
| 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/4 | 700-45C 700x46C | 45-622 | ||
| 28 x 1.75, 28 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/4 | 700-47C 700x47C | 47-622 | ||
| 28 x 2.00 | nine0235 700-50C50-622 | |||
| 600 | 22 (23, 24, 25, 27, 28, 30)-600 | Old Soviet sports and track bikes | ||
| 599 | 26 x 1.25, 26 x 1.375 | 32-599 | Very old American light bicycles. | |
| 26 x 1 7/8 | nine023547-599 | ZiF (Penza) 190-535 "Samson" | ||
| 597 | 26 x 1 1/4 (EA1) (England) | 32-597 | English old sports and club bikes. | |
| 26 x 1 3/8 (S-6) | 37-597 | Light bicycles of the American firm Schwinn. | ||
| 590 | 26 x 1 1/8 | 28-590 | Soviet bicycles ZiF (Penza) "Diana", "Prima", "Turn", "Relay", "Sura", "Breeze", "Temp" American and British 3 and 10 speed. | |
| 26 x 1 1/4 | 32-590 | |||
| 26 x 1 3/8 (E.A.3) (England) | 650A | 35-590 | ||
| 26 x 1 3/8 | 650-35A 650x35A | 37-590 | ||
| 26 x 1 5/8 | 44-590 | |||
| 587 | 700D | Old size on some GT models | ||
| 584 | 27. 5 x 1.50 | 650x38B | 40-584 | nine0702 French road bikes, touring bikes with cargo, tandems, some Raleigh (USA), old Schwinn mountain bikes|
| 26 x 1 1/2 | 650B | 37-584 | ||
| 27.5 x 1.5 | 40-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 1.65 | 44-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 1.75 | 47-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2 | 52-584 | nine0249|||
| 27.5 x 2.1 | 54-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2.25 | 57-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2.3 | 60-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2.4 | 62-584 | |||
| 27.5 x 2.8 | 70-584 | |||
| 571 | 26 x 3/4 | 650x20C | 20-571 | Triathlon, time trial, small road bikes, some French Peugeot bikes. nine0237 |
| 26 x 7/8 | 650x23C | 23-571 | ||
| 26 x 1 | 650C | 23-571 | ||
26 x 1. 75 | 47-571 | |||
| 26x1 3/4 (S-7) | Road Schwinn | |||
| 559 | 26 x 1.0 | 25-559 | Most mountain bikes. Classic landing diameter for 26 wheels. | |
| 26 x 1.25 | 32-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.35 | 35-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.4 | 37-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.5 | 40-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.6 | nine023544-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.75 26 x 1.75 x 2 | 47-559 | |||
| 26 x 1.95 | 50-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.00 | 52-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.10 | 54-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.15 | 55-559 | |||
26 x 2. 25 | 57-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.3 | 60-559 | |||
| 26 x 2.4 | 62-559 | |||
| 26 x 3.0 | 75-559 | |||
| 26 x 3.7 | 95-559 | |||
| 26 x 4.00 | nine0235100-559 | |||
| 26 x 4.5 | 115-559 | |||
| 26 x 4.8 | 120-559 | |||
| 547 | 24x1 1/4 | English children's and American firm Schwinn | ||
| 24x1 3/8 (S-5) | Schwinn American children's bicycles | |||
| 540 | 24 x 1 1/8 | 600A | 28-540 | Children's English and European bicycles, most wheelchairs |
| 24 x 1 1/4 | 32-540 | |||
| 24 x 1 3/8(E-5), 24 x 1 3/8 A | 37-540 | |||
| 533 | 24 x 1 1/2 | 37-533 | nine0235||
| 531 | 24 x 1 5/8 x 1 1/2 | 44-531 | nine0235||
| 520 | 24x1 | 25-520 | Road wheels for children's bikes | |
| 507 | 24 x 1.5 | 40-507 | Children's mountain. "Salut", "Altair", "Ervi" | |
| 24 x 1.75 | 47-507 | |||
| 24 x 1.95 | 50-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.0 | 51-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.125 | 54-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.25 | 57-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.35 | 60-507 | |||
24 x 2. 5 | 62-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.6 | 65-507 | |||
| 24 x 2.75 | 70-507 | |||
| 24 x 3.0 | 75-507 | |||
| 501 | 22 x 1.0 | 25-501 | European bikes | |
| 22 x 1 1/4 | 32-501 | |||
| 22 x 1 3/8 | 37-501 | |||
| 490 | 550-28A | 28-490 | European Road Kids Bikes | |
| 22 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 | 550-32A | 32-490 | ||
| 22 x 1 3/8 | 550-35A | 37-490 | ||
| 489 | 22 x 1.0 | 25-489 | European bikes | |
| 22 x 1 3/8 | 37-489 | |||
| 22 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 | 40-489 | |||
22 x 2. 00 | 50-489 | |||
| 457 | 22 x 1.75 to 2.125 | Children's bicycles | ||
| 451 | 20 x 1 1/8 | 28-451 | BMX for light riders, light children's bikes, some ligerades. Wheels on some types of wheelchairs. | |
| 20 x 1 1/4 | 30-451 | |||
| 20 x 1 3/8 | 37-451 | |||
| 445 | 20 x 1 1/4 | 30-445 | "Schoolboy" (old Soviet models) | |
| 440 | 500-28A | 28-440 | European folding, children's bicycles | |
| 500-35A | 37-440 | |||
| 20 x 1 1/2 | 500-38A | 40-440 | ||
| 438 | nine0235 20 x 1 3/837-438 | European bikes | ||
| 20 x 1 3/8 1 1/2 | 40-438 | |||
| 432 | 20 x 2 1/2 | 40-432 | European bikes | |
| 428 | 20 x 2. 00 | 54-428 | European bikes | |
| 419 | 20 x 1 3/4 | Schwinn American children's bicycles | ||
| 406 | 20 x 1.25 | 32-406 | Most BMX bikes, kids and folding models. "Venta" (folding model 175-811). "Aist" (folding, model 113-322) nine0002 "Tisa-2", "Cross", "KAMA", "DESNA", "Schoolnik", "Velta Kama", "Dubisa" (Siauliai bicycle factory), "Eureka" and other folding and old Soviet models.Folding "Mustang" | |
| 20 x 1.35 | 35-406 | |||
| 20 x 1 3/4 20 x 1.5 | 40-406 | |||
| 20 x 1.75, 20 x 1.75 x 2 | 47-406 | |||
| 20 x 1.95 | 50-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.00 | 54-406 | |||
20 x 2. 125 | 57-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.35 | 60-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.5 | 62-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.6 | nine023565-406 | |||
| 20 x 2.75 | 70-406 | |||
| 20 x 3.0 | 75-406 | |||
| 390 | 18 x 1 1/8 | 450-28A | 28-390 | Children's European bicycles |
| 18 x 1 3/8 | 450-35A | 37-390 | ||
| 450-55A | 55-390 | |||
| 387 | 18 x 1 1/2 | 37-387 | Children's European bikes | |
| 369 | 17 x 1 1/4 | 32-369 | Bicycles Alex Moulton | |
| 355 | 18 x 1 1/8 | 28-355 | nine0283 Children's bicycles||
18 x 1. 25 | 32-355 | |||
| 18 x 1.35 | 35-355 | |||
| 18 x 1.5 | 40-355 | Birdy folding bikes. | ||
| 18 x 1.6 | 42-355 | Children's bicycles | ||
| 18 x 1.75 | 47-355 | |||
| 18 x 1.95 | 50-355 | |||
| 18 x 2.0 | 54-355 | |||
| 18 x 2.125 | 57-355 | |||
| 349 | 16 x 1 1/8 | 28-349 | Old Moulton, Brompton and other folding bicycles, ligerade front wheels, children's bicycles. nine0237 | |
| 16 x 1 1/4 16 x 1.25 | 32-349 | |||
| 16 x 1.35 | 35-349 | |||
| 16 x 1 3/8 | 37-349 | |||
| 340 | 400-30A | 28-340 | Children's European bikes | |
| 16 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 | 400-32A | 32-340 | ||
| 16 x 1 3/8 | 400-35A | 37-340 | ||
| 16 x 1 5/8 | 400A | 44-340 | ||
| 335 | 16 x 1 3/8 | Children's Polish bicycles | ||
| 330 | 16 x 1 1/2 | 400-38B | nine0235 40-330Children's bicycles | |
| 317 | 16 x 1 3/4 | Schwinn American children's bicycles | ||
| 305 | 16 x 1. 5 | 40-305 | Children's bicycles, folding, touring and some ligerades. | |
| 16 x 1.75 | 47-305 | |||
| 16 x 1.95 | 50-305 | |||
| 16 x 2.0 | 54-305 | |||
| 16 x 2.125 | 57-305 | |||
| 16 x 2.5 | 62-305 | |||
| 298 | 14 x 1 1/4 | 350-32A | 32-298 | Strollers, children's bikes, balance bikes |
| 288 | 14 x 1 3/8 | 350A, 350-35A | 37-288 | Children's bicycles, balance bikes |
| 14 x 1 5/8 | 350-38A | 40-288 | ||
| 14 x 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 | 350-42A | 44-288 | ||
| 14 x 1.75 | 47-288 | |||
| 279 | 14 x 1 1/2 | 350-38B | 40-279 | Children's bicycles, balance bikes |
| 254 | 14 x 1. 5 | 40-254 | Children's bicycles, balance bikes | |
| 14 x 1.75 | 47-254 | |||
| 14 x 2 | 54-254 | |||
| 239 | 12 1/2 x 1 3/8 x 1 1/4 | 300-32A 300x32A | 32-239 | Children's bicycles, balance bikes |
| 205 | 12 1/2 x 2 1/4 | 56-205 | Children's bicycles "KVD", balance bikes, sometimes suitable for baby strollers ("Dutik" tires) | |
| 203 | 12 x 1.75 12 1/2 x 1.75 12 1/2 x 1.9 | nine0235 47-203 | Small children's bicycles, balance bikes, baby carriages | |
| 12 x 1.95 | 54-203 | |||
| 12 x 2.0 | 50-203 | |||
| 12 x 2.125, 12 1/2 x 2 1/4 R | 57-203 | |||
| 12 1/2 x 2 1/4 | 62-203 | nine0249|||
| 176 | 55-176 | Tires for tricycles, scooters, balance bikes for small children, wheelbarrows and carts, prams | ||
| 152 | 10 x 2 | 54-152 | ||
| 137 | 8 x 1 1/4 | 32-137 |
29 tires differ from 28 only in height. Tire width selection is more flexible than rim diameter.
nine0003
Rim widths are measured and marked in millimeters as shown in the figure at the beginning of the article.
How to measure the width of the rim is described in a separate article here.
| Rim width in mm | Tire width in mm and inches | Bicycle type |
| 13 | 18 - 25 mm (1") | road and cyclocross models |
| 15 | 23 - 32 mm (1" - 1.25") | |
| 17 | 25-37 mm (1" - 1.5") | light cross-country and hybrid models |
| 18 | 28 - 44 mm (1.1" - 1.75") | heavy XC and hybrid models |
| 19 | 28 - 60 mm (1.1" - 2.35") | nine0235 MTB (mountain bikes, mountain bikes)|
| 20 | 28 -47 mm (1. 1" - 2") | cycling and light extreme |
| 21 | 35 - 50 mm (1.4" - 2") | |
| 23 | 40 - 50 mm (1.5" - 2.1") | extreme cycling |
| 25 or more | 44 - 57 mm (1.75" - 2.25") | |
| 32 | 75 mm (3") or larger |
This table shows guide data for a medium bike. Use it not as a dogma, but as a guideline for selection.
Some manufacturers give their own tables for the tires they produce, according to which they need to be selected for their wheel.
The width of the tire affects rolling and grip. The wider - the better the grip, cornering control, but the worse the roll. nine0003
It is considered optimal if the width of the tire is 1.5-2.1 times wider than the inner width of the rim. It is possible and 2.5 times, but this is already an amateur.
The tire-to-rim width ratio affects how the tire behaves when cornering. Too wide tires mounted on a narrow rim can simply break. will have a pear-shaped profile.
Further, if toothy rubber is installed on the wheel, then the side spikes on the tread will not be where they should be for confident grip in the turn. nine0003
With wide tires on a narrow rim, the side studs will be too high and will not hold properly in the turn.
On narrow tires with a wide rim, the spikes will be from below and with a good slope, the bike will ride on the sidewall, and she is bald.
