Nothing can handle knee-deep snow and ice better than snow chains. Even an offroad 4WD SUV could struggle with snow without snow chains. If you own a car and need to move through snow, you have no other choice but to use snow chains. Obviously, snow chains slow you down, but to what extent. How fast can you drive with snow chains?
Snowchains are a series of chains that are wrapped around the tire to handle snow or ice with ease. Even with snow chains, driving through snow and ice could be grueling. But they do provide that extra grip that is required to drive through harsh weather.
The chains are wrapped around the tire with the help of several hooks, that provide a tight fit. As it is securely attached to the tire, the chains act as an extension of the grooves in the tire.
Snow chains reduce the area of contact between the tire and the road. This allows it to create more friction between them. This also means that you should only use them when it is absolutely necessary. If there is no ice or only a thin layer of snow, snow chains could do more harm than good. It could damage the vehicle as well as the road.
When you use snow chains, you cannot drive at the speeds you are used to. You should plan while considering the excess time that’ll take due to snow chains. On average you’d be able to cruise around at 20 mph. At the most, you will be able to travel up to 30 mph. Anything more than this would be a risk.
We already discussed that you shouldn’t use snow chains unless necessary because of the damage that you’ll incur.
Other than these driving with snow chains will also affect the fuel economy of the car.
So keep in mind, by using snow chains you are running the risk of damaging your car, you won’t be able to drive at high speeds, and it will reduce your fuel economy. So you should only use snow chains when it is absolutely necessary.
Some states that are frequently subjected to heavy snow, have laws regarding the use of snow chains. They make it mandatory to use snow chains in situations when they face heavy snowfalls. Just like the rule to use snow chains, they also have a speed limit. That speed limit is often 30 mph.
When you look at the top speed you can get with snow chains on, you have to also look at the factors that affect the speed.
30 mph is the highest you can go. The weather might already be bad, but if it’s worse you might have to slow down from that 30 mph cap.
Here are a few factors that will decide how fast you can drive with snow chains.
VisibilityYou should never drive fast when the visibility is low. This is especially true when you are wearing snow chains and there is a layer of snow and ice on the road. If you are experiencing heavy snowfall, chances are you do not have great visibility at the moment. In cases like this, you should try to drive as slow as possible.
The Status Of The Snow ChainYou should keep in mind that even though you have a snow chain you are not invincible. You can easily lose control in the snow. You should be more aware of this if your chain is old. If it has been sitting for a while, there is a chance that it could be rusted.
If it is used heavily in the past, it would definitely have some wear and tear.
The point is, with time the structural integrity of the chain is going to drop. While driving you should keep this in mind.
No matter how new your chain is, if it doesn’t fit your tire like a glove, you should take that into consideration while driving. Driving fast puts extra pressure on the chain. If it is not secured to the wheel it could come loose.
Therefore depending on the age of the chain and how it is fastened to the car, you should slow down accordingly.
How Experienced Are You Driving In The Snow?If you are new to the entire snow chain topic, you should drive slowly until you get a hang of it. As you gain experience and confidence, you can slowly build up your speed.
Weather ConditionsWe already talked about how the weather could affect visibility. It also affects the condition of the road. Ice has less friction than snow.
So if you are driving through a patch of ice, you should slow down.
A fresh coat of snow also has less than ideal friction, even if you are using snow chains. Ultimately, you need to assess the road conditions before you stomp on the accelerator.
There is a lot of factors that could determine how fast you drive with snow chains. Even though the law allows you to go up to 30 mph, if you are facing adversities you should slow down. The optimal speed no matter the conditions would be 20 to 25 mph.
Before you decide how to secure the chains to your tire, you need to decide which tire to fit them to. Do you go for the rear wheels or the front wheels?
Which tire you install the snow chains on depends on the type of car you drive. If it is a rear-wheel-drive car, you should install them on your rear wheels. If it is a front-wheel-drive car, you should install them on the front wheels. What about 4WD cars. For 4WD cars, you need snow chains for all four wheels.
Fastening the chains to the tire is not that complicated.
But you should purchase a tire chain that fits your tire. Anything smaller or larger than your tire size is not going to fit.
The best way to do this is to lay them on the road or driveway untangled and stretched out. Place your wheels above the chains as close to the center as possible. Now all you have to do is wrap the chains around the tire.
Now use the hooks or rings that come with it to attach each end. You should be able to cover the upper half of the tire with ease. Now move your car slightly forward, and finish up the rest of the hooks.
Pretty easy right? The process of installing the chains is easy as long as you are prepared. If you do it in your driveway or on a clear street it should be fine. But if you drive without the snow chains and decide to install them when you get stuck, then the situation could get messy.
Know the road conditions and be prepared before you start your journey.
If you don’t like to use snow chains, and there are plenty of good reasons to hate them, there are alternatives. Here are some options.
These are pretty much the same as snow socks. They wrap around the tire. Instead of being made of metal, these are made of chains. They are made out of fabric. The fabric is modified to give the best possible grip while driving.
It has a number of advantages over regular snow chains. They whey less than snow chains and it takes less room to store. Since they are light, they offer better control than snow chains. They are easy to set up. One of the main advantages is that it does no damage to the tire or the road.
But it is not all good news. They are prone to tearing if the conditions get tough.
If you are worried about the speed limit of snow chains, snow socks are even worse. The maximum speed of snow socks is around 25 mph. According to some laws, they cannot replace the mandatory snow chains.
Spider spikes are a more modern alternative to snow chains. They are made of metal, and they are easily attached to the side of the wheels. They are easy to move and quick to set up.
The main disadvantage is the price. These cost $350 and upwards. Looking at the speed, these don’t provide an advantage compared to snow chains.
Tire straps are often referred to as plastic snow chains. They are made out of plastic and they are attached to the wheel using straps. Installing these is much easier than snow chains, and it does little to no damage to the wheels.
These are a pretty good alternative for snow spikes. The grip they offer is slightly less, but you can get similar speeds. They tend to be slightly more expensive, other than that they are a perfect replacement.
Tire wraps are similar to snow socks, but instead of fabric, they have a fishnet design. The process of attaching these to the tires is also similar to attaching snow socks. Even though they look ineffective, surprisingly they can handle snow conditions well.
One of the biggest issues with this is the wear. If you drive through a dry patch, it could easily be damaged. As long as you drive it through snow and ice, they are a decent alternative.
When it comes to snow tires, there are 2 types. One is studded tires and the other is non-studded. The studded tires work best but it has their own problems.
Both types offer great traction. The studded tires are often better though. You can even drive through dry patches without any issues.
But the studded tires are known to damage roads when driving through dry patches.
Therefore they are illegal in a few states. They are costly, and if you don’t use them regularly, it doesn’t make sense to invest in them. Another issue is changing the tires. Fixing snow tires to your car is not the same as fixing regular tires. So it requires professional help to install them.
One of the main advantages you get by using snow tires is excellent traction. They can handle the most treacherous roads covered with snow and ice. Due to these capabilities, they are faster than snow chains or any other alternative. You can go up to 40 mph with snow tires.
Taking all these into consideration, all these alternatives are useful. But the conditions will eventually decide which is best. Snow tires would be a great investment if the area you live in is constantly bombarded with heavy snow. If not they are not worth the price tag.
If it is the speed and traction that you are looking for, snow chains are by far one of the best solutions.
They are a bit tedious to install but the time spent is worth it.
If you do not want to spend a lot of time setting up your defense against snow, the other alternatives should be okay to use.
Winter is coming. The streets are going to be dressed with snow and ice. For an experienced driver, it is going to be just another day. If you are new to driving in these conditions, snow chains aren’t going to be enough to protect you.
They might give some added protection, but to safely navigate frictionless streets, you need to follow some other practices as well. Here are some tips to safely navigate through snow and ice.
This is probably the most important practice to safely drive in these conditions. You might think 30 mph with snow chains is already slow enough, but you should try to keep it at around 20 mph or less if you are inexperienced.
Unlike sunny days even if you slam the brakes it will take a while to come to a stop.
If you are going fast even by a fractional amount, the stopping distance increases drastically.
If you feel like you are swaying a lot, or seem to be drifting while taking a turn, that is an indicator that you are driving too fast. Easing off the gas pedal is the safest way to drive through adverse weather. Even if you are an experienced driver, try to keep it under 30 mph when you are using snow chains.
This is one of the common rookie mistakes that you can make. Never slam your brakes even if you are tempted to do so. It will cause the car to slide and you will lose control. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t use your brakes when necessary. Ease into it and decrease the velocity of the vehicle slowly.
You already know the braking distance increases exceptionally in ice and snow. And you cannot use the brake as you do on dry roads. If you are too close to the tailgate of the vehicle in front, you will crash into them if they slow down.
Never overtake the car unless they are driving really slowly. If you are trying to overtake a car driving above 15 mph, you are taking a huge risk.
No matter how cautious you are, things could go sideways in an instant. In these conditions, the car will literally turn sideways and you’ll be in a slide. Reasons for being in a slide are either driving too fast or slamming the brakes.
You might be a safe driver but know how to deal with a slide. The basic technique is to turn the wheels in the direction you want to go. There is a lot more behind this, make sure to look it up.
After we drive for a while, we adjust to that style of driving.
Sometimes your subconscious might take over. Snowy conditions are completely different from sunny highways. You constantly remind yourself of the conditions you are in and never let your subconscious take over. Be aware of your surroundings and slow down if necessary.
Driving through snow and ice is never going to be 100% safe. By following these tips and using a snow chain or any other alternative you can vastly reduce the risk.
Here are some of the most common questions regarding snow chains.
There is a wide variety of snow chains in the market. The most basic economical snow chains cost around $30. If you want a high-end snow chain with additional features you could end up paying $300 or more. The price tag depends a lot on the size of the tire. Larger truck tires could cost a hefty sum.
There is only one way to drive using snow chains, that is slowly. Try to keep the car under 25 mph.
As long as you properly fasten the snow chains to your tire, driving around with them will not prove to be a major challenge.
Yes, there is a possibility of snow chains damaging the tires if you are not careful. As long as you use it as it is intended, that is through ice and snow you should be fine. If you constantly drive through dry patches it could damage your tires and the road. Improper installation could also damage your tires.
It depends, if you are planning to drive through ice and snow, you definitely need to use snow chains. But if not you should never use snow chains. Sometimes you are bound by the law to wear snow chains. It depends on the season, weather conditions, and the road you are going to drive through.
You should not drive faster than 30 mph when you are on snow chains. If you over the speed you could lose control, or bust your tire.
The speed limits are there for a reason, it is to ensure your safety and everyone else on the road.
Other than the dangers of overspeeding, in most states, you will be breaking the law. So you will be fined if you Overspeed with snow chains.
There are plenty of different options if you don’t want to use snow chains. Each has its own pros and cons. The option that comes close to snow chains would be tire straps. Tire socks and tire wraps are also decent options.
Snow chains are a piece of essential equipment to navigate through snow. But using them provides a new set of challenges. It poses a measly speed limit of 30 mph. This speed limit might be frustrating, but that is the maximum speed you can drive during such conditions.
Even though there are a few other alternatives to snow chains, most of them are not going to increase your maximum speed.
Attaching snow chains to the wheels is not easy.
You should be prepared if you do not want to get stuck in the snow. Attaching the chains to the wheels in the open exposes you to the harsh weather. So when needed, make sure to attach them before driving into the sunset.
Driving through snow and ice is definitely risky. By using equipment like the snow chain or another alternative, you can reduce the risk. The best method to ensure maximum safety is to take it slow on the gas pedal.
Find more related articles here:
Can You Drive With Snow Tires Above 50 Degrees?
Are Honda Civics Good In Snow? Recommended For Winter Driving?
Are Mustangs Good In The Snow?
Driving with snow chains on your tires is a great idea when the roads are covered in snow and ice. But will snow chains make your car slower? How fast can you drive with snow chains?
With snow chains on your tire, you should drive your car not more than 20 to 30 miles per hour (30 to 50 kilometers per hour).
Even if you want to, your car will not be able to drive at its normal top speed on a snowy road with chains on the tire.
You should not try to drive faster than about 20-30mph with snow chains. If you go over a dry patch of the road, the chains can cause your car to slide out of control when steering or braking.
It is important that the snow chains are fitted properly on your tires. If not, your tires will develop minor cosmetic damage, especially if you speed up the car. Be safe and keep your speed below 30 mph when driving in snowy weather.
Read on to learn more about how fast you can drive with snow chains on and tips for driving safely with snow chains.
Snow chains can be used up to 20-30mph (30-50km/hour). It would be difficult to drive faster than this in snowy conditions with snow chains, even if you want to. The traction on the snowy road prevents your car from going too fast.
Snow on the road and tire chains on your tires is not a normal driving condition. This situation negatively affects the fuel efficiency of your car, as well as its speed.
For your safety, you are required by your state authorities to use snow chains on your tires when driving on roads and streets under heavy snow. During such conditions, the fastest that you can go is no more than 20 to 30mph. Any faster than 20 to 30 mph with chains can cause your car to slide out of control when braking or steering.
There are car models that give specific details on how fast they could go on roads heavy with snow. But 20 to 30 mph. should be the average speed limit you should observe regardless of your car’s type and make.
The main reason why you are using snow chains is that the road condition is bad. The snow that is continuously falling makes it difficult for the road crew to keep up. The condition is already forcing you to drive slowly.
If you’re confident that you have properly installed the tire chains and that they won’t fall off, then you could drive normally.
But ‘normally’ means normal speeds in snowy weather, not in sunshine conditions.
If you drive faster than 30 mph on snowy roads, you risk damage to the chains, tires, and your car. When the weather is so poor, making chains necessary for driving, you can’t drive faster than 35 mph.
Below are some of the things that will limit your speed, even if your tires have chains in snowy roads and streets:
If the snow on the road is already compacted, you can drive at a fairly fast speed but not too fast. But if there’s a fresh layer of snow on the road, you have to drive more slowly.
If there’s a tight fit in the snow chain and the tire, there will be more grip on the road, and you can drive faster. But if it’s a loose fit, you have to drive slower. Be sure to use the right chains for the size of the tires.
The newer the tire chain, the more confident you will be in using it, and the faster your car can go.
The reverse will be true if you are using an old tire chain.
If this is your first time using a snow chain, you will tend to go slow. After using it several times, you will be more confident, and thus, be able to drive faster.
To some extent, the tire chain’s design can affect your speed while driving in the snow. Some snow chains cover the entire tire tread and tire walls, while some only cover part of the tire tread.
Snow chains can get you out of difficult situations in snowy weather, but not if you drive too fast. The main reason why tire chains are used is to give you a safe way to travel an unsafe road. Dangerous road conditions mean extra care in driving your car.
Here are some safety tips when you’re driving with snow chains:
Before installing the tire chain, see to it that the tires are properly inflated. There should be at least three millimeters of tread in it.
Better yet, use winter tires if you have them.
See that your brake locks are working and not frozen. If they are frozen, spray some WD-40 until they thaw. Bring along a shovel just in case you bog down on the snow.
You will destroy the tire chain, your tires, and the road your car is running on. That means after you have gone through an icy road and ahead is a road cleared of ice and snow, you don’t have to drive with chains.
You can use just one pair of tire chains, but it is better to use two pairs for better traction and grip. If only one pair is used, the snow chains are installed on the driven wheels.
Using only one pair will either cause your car to understeer or oversteer. If you have four-wheel drive, you need to cover all your tires with snow chains.
So if you have a front-wheel car, install the chains on the front wheels. Your car will oversteer if you put the chains only on the front wheels.
If yours is a rear-wheel drive, but the chains around the rear wheels. Your car will understeer if you put the chains only on the rear wheels.
If your tires are already covered with snow chains, turn off the car’s Traction Control/Anti-skid safety feature. To be sure, check your car operator’s manual.
After installing the chains, don’t drive right away. Start the engine and gently shift from neutral to gear 1 (or Drive, if automatic) and drive slowly. After a short distance, stop and check the fit of the chains.
Adjust them if necessary so that they are securely fitted on the tires. They shouldn’t slip from the tires while your car is running.
Keep your speed down and minimize sudden jerks on the steering wheel. Be particularly careful when negotiating bends and curves. Don’t step on the gas and the brakes abruptly. Drive as gently as the outside conditions allow.
After using the chains, check if there are parts that are damaged during your trip. Look for links or connectors that are broken. Repair them if possible. If not, replace them with a new one.
Clean and dry the snow chains before putting them in storage. Chains made of metal can corrode. It is important to get them dried completely before they are stored.
Again, how fast can you drive with chains? Your car can go as fast as 20 to 30 miles per hour (30 to 50 kilometers per hour) when it is equipped with snow chains. You won’t be able to drive much faster on snow and ice.
Don’t expect that you can normally drive; rather, expect that your speed will be reduced. Don’t try to drive faster than about 30mph, as this can cause your car to slide out of control.
If you drive too fast while your tires are wearing snow chains, you will cause minor damages to them.
You can minimize the damage to the tires if you limit your speed below 30 mph.
And if you drive your car too fast and one of the tire chain snaps, it will damage your car’s body or chassis. The chain may even get entangled with the shock absorber and other parts of the car under the chassis.
Yes, it could, so be prepared when you are driving on snow. It is frightening to have your car skidding. When this happens, try to remain calm and decide where you want the car to go.
Here are some steps you can do when this happens:
Don’t slam on the breaks but steer the car gently in that direction. This can happen when you are running at 35 mph or more.
Slow down to keep your car from hydroplaning. Take your time before driving straightaway after a snowfall or rainfall. The road is slippery so wait until everything has settled before driving away.
Hold the steering wheel tightly with both your hands. The road is influencing how your car is turning, but you can control it by keeping a solid grip on the steering wheel.
It is when you are approaching or negotiating a bend that skids often happen. So be slow when you are nearing a corner.
Turn off your car’s cruise control when traveling on snow. Cruise control under snowy conditions can lead to skidding or hydroplaning. You can’t shift the car’s weight when it is in cruise control, and it can easily lose traction.
The snow chains must be fitted securely on the tires. If not, they can fall off when you are driving fast. It would help if you practiced how to install the snow chains on your tires. It is relatively easy to do. In installing the chains, use a pair of gloves and a pair of tire tensioners.
Here are the steps you can follow to do this:
Untangle the Chains from the Box or PackGet the chains from the pack or box and make sure that the chains are straightened out and not looping over one another. Hold them up so that one end is in your right hand and the other end is in your left hand.
You should see the metal latches along the two sections of the chains. The latches and hooks of the chains are usually color-coded to help you connect the same colors together.
You should connect them in such a way that they will not cause any damage to your tires. To be sure, follow the instructions on the chain pack or box.
Lay the chains on the ground in front of the tire. The latches should be on each side of the tire. The tires should not run over them.
Start the car and drive it forward so that the chain is directly under the tire. Stop the engine and cover the tire with the tire chain. Connect the latches on either side of the chain.
If you need to turn the wheel toward the inside of the car, you can easily access the chain’s connecting points inside the wheel.
If you install the chain on the right tire, turn the steering wheel on the left and vice versa if you install the chain on the left tire. Put the car on the parking brake so that it won’t move forward or backward.
Connect the hooked edges of the chain in the inner part of the tire. Then connect the hooked edges on the outside section of the tire.
Rotate the tightening cam or closing link so that the chains will be tight enough. This will ensure it won’t slip from the tire when the car is running. Make sure that the links of the chain are evenly distributed throughout the tire.
It would help if you only covered your tires with chains when traversing a road-heavy laden with snow. Using it unnecessarily will damage your tires and your car, and the road you are traveling on.
Using a snow chain that is not suited to your tire’s size will also damage your tires.
Your car should go about 20 to 30 mph (30 to 50 kilometers per hour) with snow chains on the tires.
Don’t make the mistake of thinking that you can normally drive with snow chains on your tires. When your tires are wearing snow chains, you will notice that your car will not be able to reach its top speed.
If you drive over a dry spot of the road with snow chains, your car can slide out of control when braking or steering.
Be safe and keep your speed below 30 mph. when driving in snowy weather.
Related reading:
How to Drive in Snow Safely [9 Tips]
How to Put on Snow Chains? [Easy Snow Chain Install]
How to Put Chains on Tires
Snow Tires Vs Chains – Which One Should You Choose?
Differences Between Snow and All-Season Tires
- OOO Spetstekhpostavka Tires of the same size may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially mud and snow or off-road tread tires, so no snow chain online shop can 100% guarantee correct chain size. If the chains are installed with great effort, it is better to change the size.
Most snow chains are now easy to install, however we strongly recommend that you practice putting them on when you buy them when dry before you encounter installation in snow or mud.
How much clearance is required for snow chains?
Clearance is the amount of space between a wheel and any obstacles such as the bodywork, brake systems or vehicle suspension.
Standard 9mm automotive chain needs about 15mm between the inside edge of the tire and any obstructions (to keep the chain moving), standard 4x4 chains can protrude 16mm from the wheel and so need a minimum clearance of 21mm.
Snow chains are sold in pairs and must be fitted to the drive wheels.
This is generally considered sufficient and meets legal requirements on mainland Europe and European mountain roads. For some vehicles, four snow chains are recommended.
What are the best snow chains for a rear wheel drive vehicle such as a BMW or Mercedes?
Although one set of chains will meet legal requirements on snowy roads in continental Europe, rear wheel drive vehicles may be difficult to drive on snow and ice. The chains must be fitted to the rear wheels, meaning the steering wheels are left without enhanced traction. Additional complications may arise when the vehicle is heavily loaded in the trunk and therefore it may be advisable to install a second set of chains (if clearance permits).
By law, when driving in mountainous areas, you must only have snow chains for one axle. However, when driving 4 x 4 Some drivers prefer to use 4 chains (two sets). While one set of chains will provide sufficient traction in most conditions, there are significant benefits to using two sets.
It is important to refer to the vehicle owner's manual as some manufacturers recommend two pairs.
Some vehicles have very little space between the wheel and the vehicle's suspension or other obstacles, which means the chains can come into contact with the body, brakes or suspension with serious consequences. You can check if your car has a clearance problem by placing your hand in the wheel arch, on the tire, and feeling around the tire for obstacles that are approaching it, especially the back/inner wall of the tire. Move your hand from 915 hours along the back/inside of the wheel to check the distance between the wheel and any obstructions. Keep in mind that the chain sits on the rubber of the tire, so any obstacle that comes close to either side of the tire can be a problem. You also have to consider the proximity of the wheel arches when turning the steering if you are coming up to the front wheels, usually the compression point is at 3 or 9 o'clock at the back of the wheel when the steering is locked.
(Check by locking the steering and placing your hand at the compression point to gauge the proximity of the arch to the tire, and do the same for the opposite lock.)
For 16mm chains you need at least 21mm of clearance. Western manufacturers offer 7 mm chains for cars with insufficient clearance.
Belarus, Russia, Italy, Iceland, Serbia, Montenegro, Slovakia, Finland, Estonia do not regulate the use of chains.
But be careful if you are traveling by car in Europe, Canada, USA.
Prohibited for use in Denmark, the Netherlands. (Information may change over time, so it's best to double-check.)
In France and Switzerland there are no strict requirements for winter tires. Permitted in case of ice or deep snow in Belgium, Great Britain, Greece, Ireland, Lithuania, Latvia, Luxembourg, Sweden, Norway. Also, in most European countries, chains are required if there is an appropriate road sign.
For example, in Austria snow chains are allowed as an alternative to winter tyres. The fine for driving on summer tires from November 1 to April 15 can reach 5,000 euros.
From the beginning of 2018, in Europe, a winter tire must bear the "Alpine symbol" introduced in 2012 (3PMSF - Three Peak Mountain Snow Flake) to be considered as such. The M+S symbol is only valid for tires with an earlier release date, and then only until autumn 2024.
Twenty-two of the 47 European countries have strict requirements for the use of tires on commercial vehicles in winter conditions, and a growing number of local regulations mention the 3PMSF label.
Mandatory presence in the car from November to April: in Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria; Hungary, Macedonia, Slovenia, Croatia. Chains are obligatory if the weather conditions require it: in Romania, Andorra, Austria, Macedonia, Bulgaria, Hungary, Germany, Spain, Poland, Portugal, France, Czech Republic, Switzerland.
Some US states and Canadian provinces also require drivers to carry snow chains.
In general, in mainland Europe, the driver is responsible for equipping his car for all weather conditions. The driver can be fined if he does not use snow chains when they are needed, thus obstructing the normal flow of traffic or provoking accidents.
Snow chains are required by law on all European mountain roads. Roadside checks are being made and drivers can be fined if they don't have the kit in their vehicle.
European standards recommend driving with caution in snowy conditions at speeds not exceeding 30 miles per hour (48 km/h). When driving on mud, on hard surfaces, and even more so on paved areas, the speed must be limited more strongly and regulated, based on safety and tire safety considerations.
A gentle driving style is also important when using snow chains. Excessive acceleration and hard braking will put excessive pressure on the snow chains and may cause them to break.
See also: How to choose snow chains
Next article: Sale of chains https://nn-cepi.ru/prodazha_czepej.html
Previous article: Anti-skid chains on mountain roads https://nn-cepi.ru/czepi-protivoskolzheniya-na-gornyikh-dorogakh.html
Behind this dull phrase - "anti-skid chains" - I see some bourgeois Courchevel. Around the alpine gingerbread houses are beautiful cars, always with chains on their wheels. Or maybe such devices can be useful for us? After all, we have hardly less snow and ice than in the same Alps with all the Pyrenees and the Apennines. However, in my native expanses, I rarely see wheels equipped with chains - I have not seen them even on polar winter roads, although there were enough cars, especially trucks, helplessly grinding ice with tires. And in our latitudes, this picture is not uncommon.
We should have figured it out.
The chain, at least in relation to the topic of our conversation, is a removable protector that provides a local increase in pressure on the supporting surface. That is, the principle is the same as in the case of spikes, with the difference that if the spikes in the contact patch with the supporting surface take on only a fraction of the weight of the car, then the chain, being between the wheel and the paved road, does not lift this is a wheel. The contact area becomes tiny, and the pressure, the essence of the weight divided by the contact area, grows many times, forcing the chain to bite deeply into the ice and, even more so, into the packed snow. And if the coating is softer, then the chain is likened to lugs or, if you like, to the blades of paddle steamers. What is called rowing.
In my distant youth I had experience with chains, I pretty much mixed mud and snow while driving a truck. Cross-country ability on chains improved in earnest, and I never got stuck on the road.
It is clear that cars should become more passable. It remains to understand how much, and along the way - whether the chains are fraught with great harm.
The first surprise was pleasant. As soon as I dug a shallow, top-heavy World Wide Web - and it turned out that there are a lot of chains for Russians! Of all the variety, I looked at a couple of sets made by eminent companies, then chose three sets of domestic chains, and also a set of plastic belts, which also promise to improve cross-country ability.
As a rule, two chains are included in the kit, and it is prescribed to put them on the drive wheels. And if there are four driving wheels, manufacturers recommend buying two sets per car.
Foreign chains - all entirely with a rectangular section (the manufacturers promise better grip with ice in this form), have devices to facilitate installation, and others even with automatic tension. The steel is not only alloyed, but also with surface hardening. It seems that the promises of high wear resistance are not advertising chatter.
Russian chains, on the other hand, are made of raw round bar, uncoated, and the connecting elements (I wanted to call them rings, it’s too painful for them to have an arbitrary shape) are worked out very sloppily, but they are firmly welded. And our chains turned out to be twice as heavy as imported ones: dragging and deploying them is not a pleasant task. But they are cheap, you can't take that away.
There are exactly two patterns of chains (I almost said “tread patterns”, although I would not have sinned much against the truth) for cars. The first, "ladder" - these are transverse chains with longitudinal bonds. And the second type is variations on the theme of rhombuses and honeycombs. The first ones have a reputation for being the best in longitudinal traction, but sinning with insufficient susceptibility to lateral loads, that is, the car can be demolished to the side. They say about “honeycombs” that they work more evenly in both directions, and besides, they are more comfortable.
Comfort was also promised to users of plastic belts.
I chose a test car with a short but rich biography: this is the same Hyundai Solaris sedan that went through the millstones of our accelerated life tests, which, let me remind you, are crowned with a blow to the barrier. We somehow delayed the body repair of this Solaris, but every cloud has a silver lining: if I had a new, brand new machine to test the chains, how could I plow through such virgin snow? Danger threatens both the bumper of the car and my heart. And here - with a light heart. Well, except that the photos of a car with a crumpled front end are not very pleasing to the eye, but, as they say, I ask you to be understanding.
| Thule Easy fit CU-9 | Put&Go belts |
| Country of origin: Italy | Country of origin: Italy |
| Weight of the kit: 4816 g | Weight: 2868 g |
| Price: 12800 UAH | Price: UAH 5320 |
| Very easy mounting plus automatic tightening: chains for the laziest! And in terms of traction properties - the best on ice and the worst on rolled snow. | The lightest product ever! And the most stupid. Installation is pleasant, but long. On all surfaces, these belts are noticeably inferior to chains. Acceleration is especially painful for the transmission: the blows are simply unacceptable. But even with a smooth supply of fuel, two belts broke, and a couple more broke during braking. The comfort is the worst. And the car is controlled unimportantly, with a large demolition of the front end. |
| Thule Easy fit CU-9 chain broke “in plastic” - it is clearly not friendly with our frosts | Here is the result of several runs with Put&Go plastic straps. Disposable toy |
On ice, after small pluses and minuses, the braking distance on summer tires with chains was equal to that when using studded tires
The first question I asked was this: is there any use for chains when accelerating and braking on ice and packed snow? I determined the scope of the tests at a speed of 40 km / h - I will accelerate to it, and slow down from it. The measure of braking efficiency will be the distance traveled, and acceleration - the time it takes to set the indicated speed.
I will dance from the “stove”, from Goodyear Arctic Ice studded winter tires. Accelerated several times and reined in (Solaris is equipped with ABS, and therefore on the brake pedal, in order to achieve better deceleration, pressed with all my might). For greater safety, I copied the distances measured by an electronic device into a notebook - and replaced the winter tires with summer ones, so far without any chains.
Contrast expected.
Stopping on ice required twice as much distance, about the same picture came out on packed snow. And it was especially difficult to accelerate on summer tires, requiring very gentle handling of the gas pedal.
Then different chains were put on the same summer tires. Our editorial driver Sasha Krutov volunteered to mount them; We decided that he would also share his acquired knowledge in terms of labor intensity and other features of the process. I will describe the difference in the behavior of the machine.
Due to small pluses and minuses, the braking distance on ice on summer tires with chains was equal to that when using studded tires. And this applies to all types and colors of chains that were at our disposal. But braking on packed snow showed that snow chains, even the best of them, still fall short of studded tires.
Now I will accelerate, bearing in mind, of course, that all chain manufacturers urge you to avoid sudden starts and accelerations.
There is no doubt: in this exercise, the chains win, and the difference is especially noticeable on the ice.
On packed snow, the results are close, but still, some chains allow you to accelerate faster. And if faceted imported chains were faster on ice, then ours, with a round profile, were faster on snow.
| Pevag Servo | Pevag brenta-c | Snow Gecko wheel cover |
| Country of origin: Austria | Country of origin: Austria | Country of origin: India |
| Weight: 4054 g | Weight of the kit: 4446 g | |
| Price: UAH 5400 | Price: UAH 3796 | Price: UAH 2000 |
| Very convenient, downright exemplary installation, and tightening is automatic. Slightly lose to all other chains on ice, but on packed snow they behave with dignity. | Mounting and tensioning is easy. They showed themselves well on packed snow, as well as on ice, but with an unpleasant feature: when braking, the car is less stable than on other chains. Shock-free acceleration, comfort and handling are about the same as Thule CB-12 chains. | We decided to try this “bonnet” “out of standings” – to broaden our horizons, so to speak. Installation is very easy, and the most surprising thing is that the anti-slip effect was also observed. It is a pity that it was not observed for long: the damage began in about fifteen minutes. Yes, and the effect is for a C grade with a minus: in the snow it was possible to drive only along a track already beaten by chains, and even then with a buildup. And on ice - worse than all the chains. |
On the virgin snow, the sensations are heady: the car, apparently, is already obliged to hang on its belly, but no - it continues to move confidently!
And now about the behavior of plastic belts. Both on ice and on snow, despite the metal inserts, they were noticeably inferior in braking to all chains, as well as to studded tires. There are only five belts per wheel, and therefore rare hooks are interspersed with long slips. Overclocking also came out the worst, requiring twice as much time relative to the chains. And it didn’t work out to relax: I was afraid to break both the belts themselves and damage the transmission, since the blows in it were unacceptably painful. Looks like he tried badly: in the course of acceleration, two belts nevertheless collapsed. This is in addition to those two that "died" during braking.
As for comfort, the belts are out of the question: even when they were still working in full force, the vibrations reached such a level that, against this background, even rough Russian chains are the height of comfort. There was only one consolation: being new, these straps looked very elegant!
The next day I devoted to the study of cross-country ability, since there was enough snow cover on the training ground, untouched by wheeled and other self-propelled vehicles.
Virgin snow with a depth of 150 mm is the limit for summer tires. Uniform movement is not obtained, only a roll: a step forward, two steps back, then two and a half steps forward ... It's a chore for the driver, disastrous for the equipment. Winter tires (I deliberately omit the mention of spikes, since they are of no use on virgin snow) allowed us to move confidently with a snow depth of 200 mm and even make some maneuvers. But the chains - they directly pulled me to taxi to where it was deeper! So I soon found a clearing with 300 mm of snow (already slightly above the threshold of Solaris), and individual "dunes" - under 600-700 mm, that is, above the knee.
Heady sensations: not Solaris, but what an armored tank! The car, apparently, should already, simply must hang helplessly on its belly, but no - it continues to move confidently! I'll tell you more: the speed of this movement was limited only by visibility, because you go over it a little - and the snow is already falling through the roof. And the wipers are of no use, because the snow suspension hangs in front of the glass. You should not get carried away with speed for another reason. Not only can anything hide under the snow, but modern bumpers are not well adapted to the role of bulldozer blades, this is not to their advantage.
I furrowed the virgin snow on all chains up and down, without denying myself any maneuvers. He noticed that foreign chains were still closer to their limit in cross-country ability, as evidenced by periodic breakdowns in slipping with accompanying shocks in the transmission. Our more “meaty” chains (they have a thicker rod and, as a result, a working height of 3-4 mm more) played out in deep snow to the fullest, demonstrating an amazing hook.
It was felt that the supply of patency has not been exhausted.
Ribbons (from the leftovers it was possible to install three per wheel) showed themselves very badly here: even along the beaten track, they managed to advance twenty meters, moreover, with terrible blows in the transmission and the loss of another ribbon. It is noteworthy that all the tapes were destroyed according to completely different elements, and all of them had only the latches with tongues that we liked so much at first.
One Thule chain also failed, and the most sophisticated one at that: the plastic seal of the rubber tensioner collapsed, and "the chain slid into a rut like a viper." True, she slipped peacefully, without causing damage to the car.
| Auto chain L14S5 | Thule CB-12 |
| Country of origin: Russia | Country of origin: Italy |
| Weight of the kit: 8330 g | Weight: 3848 g |
| Price: UAH 3300 | Price: UAH 3170 |
| Installation is so dreary, and this applies to all Russian chains that have been with us. | Easy assembly, simple tension. Both on ice and on packed snow, these chains are in the middle. Acceleration is given with light shocks in the transmission, natural steering. Movement - with moderate low-frequency noise, quite comfortable up to 50 km / h. |
As for the studded tires, they made it possible to drive more or less confidently only along a track laid with chains, while deviations on virgin soil led to gradual digging.
What if you put chains on studded tires? I tried, but the miracle did not happen: the behavior of the car only returned to the characteristic for the same chains worn on summer tires.
Where chains are good is on steep climbs. Rolled snow, and under it ice. The start to a 16% rise (that's about nine degrees) was given to all chains confidently. Only 12% (about seven degrees) were barely conquered by studs, and the remnants of tapes helped summer tires easily cope with only four percent. For summer tires, such a rise is the limit.
And this is the picture. Where chains really come in handy is in deep snow and steep hills. In all other cases, studded tires performed at least as well: as good as chains on ice, they provide noticeably better deceleration on packed snow. And I forgive them for the incomparably better feeling of the car, and at any speed. For chains, high speed is not only not shown by manufacturers, but in many countries it is limited to 40 or 50 km / h.
Now about the "drawings" of the chains. As for the “ladder”, in deep snow these chains proved to be the best in terms of patency, and the movement itself was quite calm. Softly and at the same time confidently, the car starts to rise.
The car steers a little worse than on “cellular” chains, the demolition is great, but not so much that an adrenaline rush went off. Of course, with the proviso that the driver still does not forget about the presence of chains on the wheels and chooses a reasonable speed. A delicate situation can arise only on an icy slope, and in the same situation, but on rolled snow, the differences between the “ladder” and the “cellular” chains are minimal, I checked. But what you can’t refuse “honeycombs” is a higher level of comfort when driving on relatively hard surfaces – it shakes less.
| Auto chain L14SL5 | Auto chain L14L5 |
| Country of origin: Russia | Country of origin: Russia |
| Weight of the kit: 6130 g | Weight of the kit: 9070 g |
| Price: 2800 UAH | Price: UAH 1250 |
| In fact, a lightweight version of another Russian chain - L14S5. | The only ladder in our test. Installation is clumsy, requires strength and skill. On ice and packed snow - in the middle, but in deep snow - incomparable patency! This chain works better than others on climbs. But it’s hard to talk about comfort: it’s like driving on a washboard, and the reactions to steering are sluggish, slow. So 40 km/h is the limit you should not cross. Yes, and do not want to. |
Finally, a few everyday situations where, in my opinion, chains are especially appropriate. You live, say, in a warm region. There is no reason to buy winter tires, with or without spikes, but if there is a riot of elements - unexpected snowfall or icing - and the chains will be useful even on the plain, not to mention the mountains.
Or here in the village there will be a need to drive along a snow-covered road, like our Sasha Krutov. Winter tires, even if they are at least three times the winners of the Autoreview tests, no longer row, but you can get through with chains. And if someone is going by car to Western Europe in winter, where for the most part spikes are banned, chains in the trunk are shown to him at all: snow drifts there happen on a completely Russian scale, and they may not be allowed into the mountains without chains at all. And in the summer, chains can be useful, but that's another story - in a couple of months we'll talk about that.
| All chains must be properly straightened before installation |
As for the choice, I would recommend domestic chains to handy and non-shocking men. The eye will not rejoice, but the damage to the budget is small, and most importantly, our chains and the car will be pulled out of the snow drift, and certainly will not break.
I decided to myself that I would keep a "ladder" in reserve - it is cheaper than "honeycombs" and will fit me perfectly. Foreign "machines", they, of course, will be more elegant and more comfortable, but they are expensive and, as our not very hard experiment showed, they are also unreliable. If I happened to live and drive where chains might be needed almost every day, then I would probably take Pevag brenta-c chains or something similar: easy installation, good driving properties, and at a price comparable to our “honeycomb ". I can’t say a good word about belts, it’s empty.
| Measurements Auto Review | ||||
| Chain model | Stopping distance from 40 km/h, m | Acceleration time to 40 km/h, s | ||
| Ice | Snow | Ice | Snow | |
| Thule Easy fit CU-9 | 22. 5 | 24.3 | 5.1 | 5.6 |
| Thule CB-12 | 23.9 | 23.1 | 5.1 | 6.1 |
| Pevag brenta-c | 23.9 | 21.2 | 4.8 | 5.3 |
| Pevag Servo | 24.4 | 21.4 | 4.8 | 5.3 |
| L14L5 | 23.3 | 21.4 | 5.7 | 4.2 |
| L14S5 | 23.7 | 19.1 | 6.2 | 5.3 |
| L14sl5 | 23.3 | 19.8 | 6.0 | 4.8 |
| Put&Go belts | 27.3 | 25.2 | 10.9 | 8.8 |
| Studded tires without chains | 23.5 | 17.0 | 7.4 | 5.6 |
| Summer tires without chains | 43.5 | 32.3 | 21. 9 | 11.8 |
| Climbing on snow-ice cover is overcome on dry land |
Snow chains are a well-known tool: their widespread use dates back to the twenties of the last century, and in 1968 a road sign “Snow chains are required” was adopted in Europe, the name of which speaks for itself. Different European countries have their own peculiarities, but it is important to remember that violation of this regulation can result in a fine - from 35 euros for the very fact of driving without chains up to 5,000 euros if this caused a traffic jam. As a rule, road services and the police, depending on the condition of the coating, either hang these signs or open them.
In the mountainous regions of Italy, for example, the signs may not be hung, but when it snows or the roads are covered with ice, law enforcement officers appear in front of dangerous areas and do not let cars without chains pass.
Away, there is usually a platform where you can safely “change shoes”, and if there are no chains, you can buy them at the nearest store or at a gas station.
Speed limit with chains is 40 or 50 km/h.
It is curious that in the same Europe there are countries where chains are prohibited - these are Ireland and the Netherlands.
The Russian traffic rules completely ignore snow chains, from which it can naturally be concluded that their use is not prohibited. The only regulatory document is GOST 30441 “Short-link load-lifting uncalibrated chains of strength class T (8)”, adopted in 1997, which is completely identical to the international standard ISO 3076 1984. GOST specifies both dimensions and minimum fracture loads, and this standard applies to all chains (anti-skid, lifting, transport, etc.) with a caliber from 5 to 45 mm. But, as far as we know, no one is involved in testing snow chains for compliance with this standard in Russia.
According to sellers, only chains for SUVs are in relatively stable, although low demand in Russia, and they are bought less often for ordinary cars.
But the good news is that there has been an increase in demand for chains for trucks. It seems to us that it is high time to regulate the use of chains, and this primarily applies to trucks and buses. You look, and there would not have been terrible traffic jams, which this winter have already led to paralysis even of federal highways, not to mention less significant roads. Our prime minister nevertheless responded to this problem, but in a strange way, by proposing to transfer heavy vehicles to studded tires. Not otherwise, he did not have time or did not consider it necessary to consult with specialists, or he forgot that the entrusted territory still occupies almost a ninth of the land, and the climatic zones range from arctic to subtropical. But our colleagues from the Trucks and buses section were puzzled by the topic: they took a tractor, a trailer, got various chains, arrived at the training ground ... They will tell you soon!
Installed and removed chains.
I was also interested in this for everyday reasons: on weekends I often go to visit my father in my Sandero, and he lives in a village in the Vladimir region. The roads are rarely cleaned there, sometimes you have to pick up a shovel, although it would be better if I waved it in the area in front of the house.
Packages with imported chains contained bright and clear instructions, moreover, in the form of an “oilcloth”, on which you can kneel and not wet your clothes. There are pouches for dirty chains, a pair of cellophane gloves... Nice!
The automatic chains were the easiest to install. I threw the chain on the wheel, straightened it and, pressing the special pedal with my foot, pulled it up. Then you sit behind the wheel - and forward: for half a turn of the wheel, the chain will reach automatically and will hold tight.
Manual tensioner chains take a little longer to put on and require more attention because after installation you have to drive 50-100 meters and then stop and tighten the chain.
The removal of these two types of imported chains is equally easy. You disconnect the fasteners, spread the chains on the road, get behind the wheel, run over the chains - and collect them in bags (then, at your leisure, it would be nice to dry the chains). The main thing is to make sure that plastic elements of fasteners and tension devices do not fall under the wheel.
Domestic chains are rough pieces of iron, but apparently strong. They are packed in canvas bags with strong handles and are completed with a pair of gloves and two carabiners. It is a pity that the instructions are not on oilcloth, but ordinary, paper.
Fasteners are primitive, and one tightening of the chain is not enough: you will have to stop and tighten the chains at least once, or even twice. This, by the way, is more convenient to do by turning the wheel outward (of course, in the case of front-wheel drive). And you also need to “tie” the dangling ends of the chains with carbines - otherwise you can grind both the fender liner and the bumper.
The hands got tired quickly (it is better to put these chains with an assistant), and on the second day they also got dirty - during the night the chains were covered with a layer of rust. By the way, contrary to the instructions, it turned out to be more convenient not to spread the chain on the road in front of the car, but to throw it on the wheel from above.
Plastic belts are no big deal! Mounting them, especially on light-alloy wheels with large "holes", is as easy as shelling pears. But still a long time: for each wheel - five such belts! But I took them off quickly: half of the belts broke during the races. Clueless thing.
When I saw how famously Uncle Vanya was ripping up the virgin snow with chains, I realized that the chains were exactly what I needed in the Vladimir region. Before my next trip, I will buy myself a set of chains with manual tension. I will try to find inexpensive imported ones so that they do not rust and that they are quick and easy to install.
The movement is accompanied by an unpleasant thud, a noticeable vibration (due to one wide section) and twitching of the steering wheel. The car's reactions to steering are confident, but there was no desire to go faster than 40 km / h. Too bad one of the chains broke. 
Acceleration is the most comfortable, soft, as well as steady motion: the presence of chains is practically not felt. The car drives clearly, and even a speed of 70 km / h is not a problem. 
On ice, these chains hold up to the level of others, but on packed snow, the car slows down best of all, and noticeably. Acceleration is painful for the transmission, but the worst thing is terrible knocks on the fender liner, which is why the speed is no higher than 30 km / h. The car steers a little better than with the L14L5 chain, there are fewer vibrations, and their frequency is higher. 
During installation, it turned out that there was not enough adjustment margin, the chain remained weakened, which caused the movement to take place with a completely unacceptable knock on the fender liner. Perceptible and jerks in the transmission. Steering and comfort is a hair's breadth better than the L14S5 chain. 
